What do u think it is?
My 2002 Lincoln Navigator wont crank up.. I
replaced my fuel pump and my battery.. That
didn't work... So, then I had someone come
check it out and my new battery was dying
and had to get jump started. What do u think
the problem is? Please I'm a single mom, I
really need help!
Fuel pumps are diagnosed by seeing if fuel sprays from the zerk fitting on the fuel rail. Normally, a fuel pressure gauge is hooked up to it to test the actual fuel pressure. Then you compare the number you're getting to what it should be. To diagnose a draining battery, disconnect the battery terminal and upon reconnection look to see if it sparks. You should have the doors closed and all electrics off. A little spark is ok but a big one means you have an excessive current draw. Putting a test light between the battery terminal and the removed cable should produce a faint glow but not a bright light. That glow comes from devices that draw a small amount of current all the time like clocks, stereo presets, alarm systems. If you measure the actual current, the amperage draw should be say, less than 1 amp. If it's more find which fuses are hot. That's accomplished by touching a test light to all the fuses in the fuse box. Keep in mind if the door is open and the interior light is on, that will be one of the hot fuses. Go ahead and pull that fuse to remove it from the mix. Next bridge the test light again between the battery terminal and the disconnected cable. Watch to see when the light goes from bright to a faint glow as you pull each one of the hot fuses. As soon as you've located the ONE that does that you've located the circuit or circuits that need further investigation. Keep in mind it could be the alternator shorting out. There's a high amperage 80- 100 amp, probably secured by screws, fuse for that too. It's a rare possibility. Most likely you have lights you can't see staying on. Here's a valid question: after you install a fully charged battery does it start and run then? That should be the first thing to try to get you back on the road. If it doesn't start then, turn the headlights on and look at them while somebody tries to start the engine. If the starter is bad the lights will dim but glow bright again as soon as the key is released. You can also hear if a starter is laboring, dragging. Let me know how you fared after completing all these tests. A test light is $5-$8. If you don't own one, buy one today.
Yes, fuel does spray from the Zero fitting fuel rail.. So I purchased a new battery the other day now it's completely dead! No lights were staying on whatsoever.. I don't know what else to do. Please help!
Dear guru9s512, In order for me to help you I'd like to have the results of my diagnostic requests answered. You plopped a new battery in there and tried to start it, yes? Did it crank over vigorously. Did it start? Do the head lights come on right after you install the NEW battery? Is it new or just a different battery? Did you thoroughly clean the terminals?? If they are side terminals separate the bolt from the cable end and clean every surface down to shiny bright metal. If the car starts after all that and it goes dead after a few hours, you have a short ( evidenced by the big spark upon reconnecting the cable to the battery terminal), then with bifurcated issues, you can address them separately. Volt/ohm meters are all of $20-. If, after installing a fully charged, load tested, new battery the voltage before connecting it, should be around 12.5 volts. If, after it's been connected for half an hour, with the doors shut and all electrical devices off, it reads less than 11 volts, go through the short finding procedure I outlined earlier. Two diagnostic tools: a test light and a volt/ohm meter go a long way to getting you running again or at least give me the ability to help you. You see, if your car starts and it just dies a short time later, you can still use the car, you just have to disconnect the battery to keep it from draining until you find the cause. It will get you to someone who can follow the short finding procedure I talked about. All auto part stores have the basic test equipment to see if they can sell you a starter, alternator or battery. If all three of those check out, you're ready to find the current drain by someone qualified, but you won't be stranded.
So guru9s512. What are you coming up with to get you down the road? You're welcome to communicate to me directly at email@example.com if you like.
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