Jeep cherokee turns off while driving. new crank sensor new distributor and still having problems
does it crank back up after you turn it off?
It turns off on its own and it wont turn on right away and sometimes it wont even turn on till a day later or so
check the voltage to the coil and the coil itself, it might work for a few minutes or all day and then when it gets hot it stops working, and then after it cools off(a few minutes or a day) it might work for awhile again. giving you the on/off symptom. if thats not it check the computer also
It did that at first and they checked the coil and said it was bad so I replaced it and still did the same... So that's when I moved to the distributor and replaced the whole thing... Computer isnt bad
did you check your fuel pump pressure?
Yes and fuel pump works and also put a new filter
bad connection somewhere? you already said you replaced pretty much everything fuel/spark related the only thing left is either one of the previous parts was of poor quality and went bad or wire harness/computer. ive had over 15 cherokees and gc and i had 2 that did the same thing one was the computer and the other one had a bad distributor
Yea I have replaced just about everything. But my brother in law checked it yesterday and said it might be the crank position sensor that gives out or senda a bad signal
how long do you drive before it craps out?
have you changed the fuel filter, some times when you have a plugged filter they will run for awhile or all day, by looking at the other answeres that you got that nobody asked about fuel pressure.
I see this is 2 years ago! Did you ever figure out what the problem was??? I'm having the same thing happen! 1994 Jeep Cherokee, 255,??? miles on it! few days ago sat in a -drive through- idling, (It got up to about 210) Jeep shut off. It started back up -got food- & headed home. It shut off 4 more times on my way home! I made it home! Changed out the fuel filter! It was clogged big time! Well today I drove about 20mins from home, I sat in a drive-through and headed to moms house and it shut off. Thank god it started up so I could get outta the street & pull into a parking lot then shut off again! Would NOT start back up this time! (Sounded like it wanted to start but wouldn't) I left it there for a few hours so it could cool off then went back. Started right up and made it home on the freeway. So sitting and idling is not good! and 210 temp not good! Any ideas?? Please help!!!
Im having same problem with my Jeep. Its starts up perfect, runs perfect. When I drive it turns off at random times. The motor turns off just as if you would had turned the key off, the lights and gauges stay on. I have been trying to track this problem down for 3 weeks now. I have replaced the following parts. New Parts Plugs,Wires, Distributor, Coil, Battery, Alternator, Fuel Pump, Crank Position Sensor, Idle Air Control Sensor, Air Exhaust Temp Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor. The only other things I can think of is junk auto-zone parts, Short on wiring harness, or computer. Does anyone have any ideas?
If your jeep over heated after all things listed in this form have been checked, have a mechanic check the motor head gaskets to see if they are damaged, air might be leaking out from it. Usually happens if it overheats or overheated in the past and the gaskets got blown or are having pressure come out even a little.
Same problem. 1988 Jeep Cherokee Laredo. Sometimes starts, sometimes not. Turns over but sounds like it's out of gas. I can hear the fuel pump kick on and it has good pressure. Dies while driving, then sometimes won't start back up. Changed fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap. What else do I check?
with jeeps from 2004 and older there could be several culprits in this problem, the ones you stated and others, IAC - idle air control is most common, easy piece to replace near the throttle body, TPS - throttle position sensor, fuel filter, map sensor, fuel flow control and ignition timing sensor, vacuum leaks are common, spark plugs, injectors, vac line on map sensor, dirty throttle body, could be others these are common, I'd start with the cheapest and most common parts, IAC, fuel filter, spark plugs, air leaks or loose pressure pumps, just a little bit of air leaking from this it sure to cause a shut off or starting problem, also please be sure it's not the starter if it does not turn on at all or the battery going bad, make a list from the simplest to the more difficult and start checking one at a time, till you find it, the answer is never easy, sometimes it's a combination of these, especially in a car that is reaching 10 years or older. Anyways good luck.
I have a 2000 cherokee classic mine stalled didnt like to restart till cooled down i replaced Ecm better starter wire 4guage crank sensor new electronic distributor whole unit added ground from engine block to fire Wall a chrysler mech showed me how Now it Runs Great need to repllace 02, and soon fuuel pump i bought it used a few years ago not sure how old those are got ecm at junk yard runa like a chamo just stubbern at Times like if it sita for hrs if u turn key to start Nope gotta tap gas pedal other than that she runs
Crank sensor is Whats keeping it from starting and causes stalls beleive me i know just went through it nightmare but not anymore fixed now 02next
Plus i had my motor rebuilt at 2000thou now 242, runs Great just anoying sensors that are starting to act up but repñace crank sensor first check pos wire from start make sure its good not arking i put 4guage on its better Plus put 4guage ground on bat do the crank sensor if u wanna start it up
Auto zone parts junk i learned my less on on buying there closest to dealer is a parts Plus Store but a crank sensor cant be much from dealor and not exp from parts Plus my own mech used to laugh When i bought auto zone When i had probs from there junk my mech would say hows hows,auto junk working for u then u want it fixed right id say yep he call and order parts and id see parts Plus truck show up now i only use parts Plus
Ruben from Tampa FL I have Cherokee sport 2000 4x4 4.0L run gray bat when engine its on normal temperature turn of so 1 hour later staring back replace can sensor and crank sensor if you can help me to repair thank
I do not have an answer 1993 Jeep Cherokee that just shuts off when your driving Sit at at a red light too long she stalls will not not start up right away Driving the Long Island Expressway go 3 or 4 exits and she just dies- No warning lights on the dashboard Changed fuel pump filter- oil change new spark plugs and wires It was inspected my trailer hitch is long enough not to cause a gas tank explosion What now???
So I am seeing this is a common thing with Jeeps. I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Lorado 4.0L V6 straight 6, and a little over 204k miles and a few years ago the engine was rebuilt. I have already changed the plugs (they were really bad. Whoever had it before me did not gap the plugs and they were really off.), replaced the ignition coil (coil pack), and I am still having the same problem. When I first start it up it runs fine. After the engine warms up periodically it will run rough and then die. If I am mobile at a high rate of speed, 55 mph or greater, it will coast for 10 or more seconds before it kicks back in and it starts in its own. If I am sitting at a light or still and it dies I have to turn the key off and sometimes it will start back up immediately and sometimes it takes up to a minute. When traffic is behind you it feels like hours. I have noticed that if I sit with my foot on the gas and break and keep my engine at at lease 1,000 rpm it will not die but if I don't do that it will usually die on me. However, if I am on the interstate, I can get on it and it runs perfectly. It has a lot of power and runs great. It's just when it dies it's like I am out of gas. The fuel pressure is normal and the pump is fine. I just replaced the fuel filter. I was told it could be the crank shaft sensor. Does that sound about right? Any suggestions before I start just replacing everything and breaking my bank account? Thank you in advance for your time and answers.
I have a 1994 jeep Cherokee that just shut off one day when I was driving to work and its been several days and it won't start up I changed the position sensor wires spark plug and ignition coil but no luck can anyone help???
Jacob I am also having the same problems with my 1998 Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo V6. When I'm on the freeway it runs just fine but if I'm at a stoplight and that RPMs go below 1000 then it seems to die. I usually will have to put my foot on the break and wrap at the same time so it doesn't do that. I change the computer out so I know it's not that any other suggestions would be great thanks
Hi guys Ian here I also have been dealing with the same issues with my 1999 jeep xj sport stalling randomly, along with everyone's postings here I have changed / check the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, crank sensor, ecm, electrical connections through out the engine compartment with no results. A friend of my told me to check the water temp sensor and that the engine would not run with out the connection so I let my jeep idle and pulled the connector from the sensor which it did stall the engine. The connection looks to be good but either way I'm going to just replace it this coming weekend. I'll post again if it fixes or changes anything. Not sure if this will help with any issues being experienced from the other people who have posted here.
I have an update. My jeep flat out gave me the middle finger and laid down and refused to start for an hour last week. After 150.00 I was told by the dealer it was the crank shaft position sensor and coil. After I had to pry my arm from the engine compartment and replaced everything, it runs better then when I got it.
I have a 1999 jeep Cherokee sport 4.0L. It has been sitting for a couple of months because it wasnt running. Before it stopped running it was running great. I have replaced pretty much everything under the hood and it has had a fuel pump and fuel filter replaced. Today we replaced the crankshaft sensor and after a little coaxing it started and ran for a little bit but not too long after it started hiccupping and quit all together. I need help, i was thinking of checking the fuel filter and coil but im running out of options. Please help!
I am by NO means an expert here...just reading through trying to figure out why my son's 2003 Jeep Cherokee randomly dies while driving down the highway. It starts right back up after a few tries though. If we figure it out I'll let y'all know. However, the problem with an earlier writer's car stalling when it drops below 1,000 rpm's and having to keep the gas and brake pressed at the same time at red lights...I experienced that in my Fiat as a teenager and it turned out to be the timing belt (timing chain?...not sure what to call it), so maybe that's something to look at as well.
I have a 1996 Jeep GC. While driving on the interstate my engine stalled then died completely. I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor, the coil and the pick up coil. I got fuel, but seems like I have no spark. Please help. I'm desperate for answers.
Having the Same Problem with my 98 Jeep Cherokee Larado..Replaced Crank Shaft Sensor and Coil; Shuts off after about an hour and cools down in 30 minutes ; and good for another 30..Acts like the motor is jumping out of it and Smells Horrible
I have a 92 jeep Cherokee country. 4.0 fuel injected last week driving it started missing terrible. Got home changed fuel filter next day seafoam in the fuel started finevidled good warmed up started down the road started missing again. Checked fuel pressure left gauge hooked up because it was idling fine again started to drive it started missing looked at fuel pressure maintains 35 lbs checked coil vaccum and cat. It sets for minute or 2 starts up purrs like a kitten until I start driving again. I have no idea what it is drove around the drive way couldnt get it to act up started down the road same thing again if I start it now it will be fine until driving even if I dont let it warm up. Any ideas?
I Have no idea, But we changed out my Cam Sensor and Coil and so far so good,,Just waiting!!!
I have a 00 jeep Cherokee, right hand drive. (mail jeep) starts up rough in the morning but generally straightens out but keeps a miss to it. when accelerating hard check engine light will flash on and off. usually delivers mail fine for 2-3 hours before it starts clunking out and stalling when I slow down or stop. usually will crank back up after 5/6 seconds but has taken up to 10 minutes to crank. also seems to be a little worse if low on fuel. fuel pressure is good though.We've replaced the fuel pump,head, coil pack, spark plugs, crank shaft position sensor,cam sensor, and purge valve cylinoid...
Just went through this with my 2000 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 4.7. Engine would cut out intermitently as it got hot. Cam and crank sensors replaced which fail frequently i'm told. Turns out the PCM was bad. Old solder joints in circuit board crack and fail when heated causing a loss of voltage. No such thing as a "new" PCM, you'll have to purchase used one from wreckers about 300 cdn and no warranty, have dealership flash VIN if older than 1999 and diagnose to make sure it is a failing PCM. Total cost was $800.00. Be sure to ask dealership to do a Voltage Drop test. Jeeps been running fine since but used PCM can fail anytime.
We fixed it!! The vapor canister wasn't working and was causing it to get vapor locked!!
Hello everyone. I have a 1996 Jeep grand Cherokee. I have read every ones problems and basically to sum it up, I am experiencing a combination of all of them. There are three different ways this happen. The first is as soon as I crank it, it will sputter, kick, burp and then die. Secondly, as quiet as a feather hitting the ground, while accelerating it will shut off and coast for 5-10 seconds and then turn back on on its own. The third way is while slowing down or at a top, the jeep will shake and sputter horribly and then turn off to where I must crank it again. I have noticed at times, only when braking or idoling, the headlights will dim or even go completely out and then back on when the jeep successfully dies. Normally it will crank immediately and drive like nothing happened, sometimes I must sit for a few minutes. The parts have changed in the past two months are the water pump, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump fuse, idol air control valve, crankshaft sensor, battery and an entire new distributor. I have no check engine lights or warning sign. The jeep just does this when it ever so choses. I have experienced this problem for over a year and its getting worse and more frequent. so far, two mechanic places have, together, had the vehicle for over a week and neither can source a problem. all my saved money has went to this vehicle and its my only vehicle, I use it every day for work. I almost lost my job 3 times because of this problem. please if anyone can help it would be a miracle. Thank you Thank you all
So Sorry;I'm in the same boat with you. Mine is a 98 and hates the rain.Backfires and dies,Sometimes it cranks right up and other times it can take 7 to 9 times.I have learned when it is dying I turn if off and coast to stop so as to avoid the Backfire. (Don't want to get surrounded by cops).It has blown my tailpipe to 3 times it's size and a hole in my muffler;so this would be my only defense to I don't have a gun officer..We all have a lemon and the Creator(Dodge) only wants our money and no answers. We have figured out that the brain is getting moisture from heat or rain and causing the miss fires. We are going to spray it with a water proof sealant for electronics and pray that works,,Wish I had some answers for you but we can only Pray and God knows whats wrong..
Look I have a 2000 jeep Cherokee classic 4.0 rebuillt motor I've replaced electronic coil thhrottle pos sensoer crank sensor a few fixed short in wire harness which caused all my issues with stalling running changed plugs and 02 sensors which gave me better fuel mileage but if u have replaced crank sensor which controls fuel and many different things replace again with dealer more than likely u got bad one I found when engine got hot or warmed up I had problems had to sit till it cooled down restart a ok till warm again my mechanic fixed shorts in wire harness along right front firewall it was causing computer to say it was reading or no computer I've replaced four computers till harness got fixed now well jeep will do burn outs lol I've pulled out chevys Ford's nissans etc from stuck snow mud or no run and run a ground from right front firewall to motor it takes out engine noise off radios aftermarket stereos etc grounds it better 4guage ask dealer where to ground mechanic showed me at Chrysler now only have issues with rear wiper motor ground I hope this helps if I'm able to get pics on here I'll post engine ground I also put a 4guage ground on batt cable with 4GUAGE STARTER WIRE AS I STATED IN EARLIER POSTS I HOPE THIS IS HELPFULL PUT IT THIS WAY I HAVE A CB HOOKED UP TO BATT CONNEX RADIO 4GUAGE AMP WIRE FOR STEREO AMP A500 AMP AND ANOTHER 4 GUAGE WIRE TO MY LINEAR AMP A XFORCE 500 PLUS CB AMP AND A AMP COIL IN LINE FOR STEREO AMPS IT SHOWS ALL TIME 14 AMPS HOPE THIS HELPS IM IN MICHIGAN
Oh not to mention fixed or replaced catalytic converter it was bad use gabrial shocks from AutoZone cause there the only ones who sell them they give better ride now one says there's stalls when raining poss crrank sensor but check wire harness for shorts mine did have if Ur door Windows ain't working Wright fix shorts in driver door harness I did now they all work I wish u all were around grand rapids area I'd show ya what I've fixed or I'd help ya fix your jeeps
I do know how iratating frustrated it can be but I'll tell after I got mine fixed less stress runs and drives great very dependable never replaced fuel pump no need Too but I u got questions feel free and ask maybe I can help the harness along right firewall where shorts are or plain and simple Ur computer going out I did change mine 2twice believe me it's frustrating but afterburner fix it all and it runs like mine ull be happy I've also changed ac condensor and heater core that's a pain in the a.. but done now I've got no anti freeze leak or running low
Mine never sputters quits or stalls. This puppy starts right up every single time when cold/cold and it restarts after hot (more than a five mile trip), but if you start it cold, run it less than two miles, shut it off, then it won't start. Won't even try to turn over, no click, no nothing except if you have fan or radio on it makes them all silent when you turn the key. New battery, new starter and solenoid , new fuel pump, no voltage vamipre issues, runs like a champ... just don't stop for gas when it's not all warmed up or you won't get going again till half hour later. I don't know what is wrong but it seems like a sensor, relay or computer issue. Maybe wire harness? It's not the neutral safety switch... I had a Jeep like that once. This one just decides if you don't get her warmed up enough then she will leave you sitting till cold/cold again.
Hi I have 98 XJ stalled on me whilst driving a couple of times and would start back up again then went out and only got just around the corner and died (had to get it towed). Now it will crank but no spark. Checked wires and can't find a short. Replaced complete fuel module, new thermostat and coolant. changed spark plugs, new ignition coil. new crankshaft position sensor, new throttle position sensor, new o2 temp sensor. New filter gasket and transmission oil. Thought it might have something to do with ECU (PCM) or the immobilizer.The guy who had it before has also done some adjustments to the auto transmission with a toggle switch so you can stay in low gears for 4x4. Anyone have any ideas?
I have been having this same problem for months. I replaced many parts. Last night while driving out of the drive, it died again. Well I have been having issues with one of the 20 amp fuses in the engine compartment. But I finally got it to start and somwthing told me to grab the wiring harness the goes to the ECM. What do you know? The engone died. Mess with it a few times. While started, I jiggled the harness.again and sure enough the engine wanted to crap out. So I looked closer, the little plastic tabs that lock the connector in place had broken off so it woild just vibrate loose. So for now, I've taken a piece of plastic to jam in between the ecm connections and the antifreeze reservoir. Since then I've had no problem. So it was the wiring harness connections vibrating loose this whole time.
Hi Jeremy have checked all connections screws etc at ECM as heard alot of people have that problem or that the screws are to long and ground out.
Well luckily I haven't had to deal with the "bolt being too long" issue. I just know that I saw a video on youtube about a guy who had the same problem. He shook the cable and the engine died. I did the same thing. I guess maybe the weight of the wiring harness is putting too much pressure in the connection. So I've got it pulled a little closer and got something jammed between them and the reservoir to keep it tight. So far so good. Just double check to make sure they are tight and the plastic tabs that lock them into place are still good. If not they maybe vibrating loose long enough to sever the connection and killing the engine.
I also have a rhd mail jeep...where did you get an evap canister...my vehicle also has the same issues
I'm in need of help! My 93 jeep GC straight 6 4.0L died on me while driving home, it sounded as if it ran out of gas, I added gas, tried to start it wouldn't turn over. Now because of having a baby it sat for a few months, but before that I replaced the radiator, clutch fan, freeze caps in the head, distributor, fuel filter, new battery, crank censor and spark plugs. It has fuel in the rods, pressure and spark but still won't start! Please HELP!
Make sure you check all your fuses in the engine compartment and check the wiring harness connections at your computer. Mine did the same thing and is it was loose connections at the ecm. Mine were vibrating loose and killing the engine. I have a piece of plastic jammed in between the computer and the antifreeze reservoir to hold them tight in place . I haven't had a problem with it since.
Well after all this time of confusion,I took a Hand Towel and put it behind my Antifreeze Reservoir and across the wires to my Brain and Guess what; It Runs like a new one and no more shuting off so far.Thank You to Everyone on here that suggested and tried that..I could not be Happier..
My 1994 jeep grand Cherokee straight 6 4.0 had been sitting a year until I bought it off a friend when I went to get it all I had to do wad jumo it off the battery even charged back so I took it got it legal then I changed oil, oil filter, radiator fluid, and transmission fluid then the next day bammn the nightmare started happening and I cant figure it out it runs so good and I wanna get it fixed its like soon as it warms up its shuts down and same thing want start for nothing until like a hour or so ill get back to it start it and good to go for 10 minutes and bam right back to the bs I really think its something simple I just dont know what I really dont want ti go on a fuse/senser buying spree any ideas to start at let me know
I can try to help due to my success so far.The best thing to do is get someone to plug a computer read out to it. I can tell you that the coil gets hot and shuts it off, Factory defect, When we changed mine it it was ok then, We also found than the clips clips on my brain were broke and we replaced and rewired them all.( get the clips from a junkyard. 3 of them ) My crank sensor was bad and that is a dealer item and mine was backfiring really bad. Any parts house has a computer they can plug in for free and tell u what is bad on it...These jeeps are a pistol and can be a nitemare but I'm still driving mine and working the bugs out..Hope this helps some..I did place a towel behind my antifreeze reservoir to stop moisture from getting to my brain and to stop the wiring harness from moving; that helped a lot.I can drive it in the rain now..There is a lot of good advice on here from others so start reading some of the answers before you spend a lot of money, I have less than 200.00 on parts on mine so far..My jeep was a gift...
I have a 1995 jeep Cherokee sport. Same problem. I have replaced 3 crank shaft sensors thinking I was getting a bad sensor. I hear only buy them from jeep dealer so tomorrow I'm gonna pick one up. I wish people who posted before would post the fix they had or something. I have replaced coolant sensor throttle position sensor catilitic converter. This morning I started and let it run at idle for 20 min and it died on its own and again the same thing when I got home from work. This is killing me.
We had a similar problem where we replaced this and that but the issue seemed to get worse, we eventually had no power to the coil. Check your relays. What happens is the plastic gets brittle that holds the female spade terminals. When you push the relays into the housing, the spade terminals smash out and get pushed down. The spade ends of the relay might only just be touching and when they get hot they arc and cause a break and your car stops running. You check the relays again and continue to push the female spade connectors down to the point where they do not connect to the relay. You have to pull each relay out and check. Pull the housing completely out and use a pair of long nose pliers to push the spade connectors completely back onto the relay. We found that one female spade connector was no longer touching, pushed the connector back on and started first go and now no problem.
To add to my last answer: Remember that when you remove the relays in the future that the spade connectors will be pushed down again. Put a note in the cover to check all connectors.
Thanks. I will check it out tomorrow and will post what I find
Well I couldn't wait. Looked at all the connections took it all apart and everything is tight. Any other ideas would be much appreciated
Sorry Bob, The XJ I am referring to is a 98 model. We do own a 95 XJ but thank the Lord that is running okay. Our 98 XJ was actually cooked by the previous owner. If you don't bleed the heater hose and top radiator hose properly, these engines can get that hot that they melt the insulation wire along the valve cover and along the tray that holds the wires for the injectors. We took all the tape and conduit off the wiring to check and found that some wires had been repaired. We were down to the point where we organised buying another 98 XJ Jeep that was running but not licenced, but found the issue with the relay. It was the ASD relay by the way, Automatic Shut Down relay. The 98 XJ relays are setup slightly different to the 95 XJ. That ASD relay must be working. Maybe try manually over-riding that relay and excite that circuit. If it runs with the circuit powered, fit a switch in the cab that you turn on and off to start and turn off and hopefully by-pass the issue that you cannot find.
Thought I had mine fixed...Think again...Yesterday it was throwing fits shutting off..and today it don't just shut off It Backfires again a Blew a Hole in my Exhaust..Now I sound like a Hot Rod Race car..We can't figure out why it goes dead and backfires either..Replaced Crank Sensor..Going back to Computer Read out...
So I went to the dealership and got the crankshaft sensor from them cost me $101. Dollars. Started up let it idle for a half an hour ripped it up after the half hour of idling then gave it some gas couple times and she died again. So the dealership crankshaft sensor didn't work for me I'm still having spark issues I guess Nextel check the coil. Or the computer I don't know this is so frustrating
Just serve any else no that's reading this I have post above explaining my problem. If you guys notice it only starts to do this after he gets to running temperature of 210. I've also read something about a thermal break down on some components. I'm just tired of throwing parts at it. Jeep. Stands for Just. Empty. Every. Pocket
I'm noticing my clutch fan is going out. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with it shutting off on me. Is there some kind of temperature sensor for the oil or the transmission or something that is causing the engine to just turn off. Still getting spark issues. Of not having spark when it does shut off. Come on people throw some answers out to us. Thanks I will keep everybody posted of what I find out
I have a 96 zj that has been dying whenever it wanted. Sometimes immediately after starting and sometimes on the highway. Crank and cam sensors have been replaced. When I got the car it had a Dodge PU coil. That's been replaced. Tonight I removed the radiator overflow and wiggled the three plugs in the computer. It died instantly. I've forced dielectric grease into the plugs and plugged them in again, wiggling them around some. So far it has run great. The issue I had was definitely spark. I had a timing light on the coil wire to confirm spark. Moving the wires on the computer killed the spark.
I replaced the crank sensor with the factory from the dealership and new clutch fan. It's working now and hasn't died on me all week. And replaced the cooling sensor.
Hello Bob, When you say "clutch fan", do you mean the thermostatic fan or the electric fan or what fan? The vehicles here in Australia have a thermostatic fan on the left when looking at the car from the back and an electric fan for the air conditioner that is on the right when looking at the car from the back.
Can you tell us what flash code you were getting please? The following is applicable to some newer model XJ's, 96, 97, 98. How to retrieve OBDII (OBD2) flash codes from your XJ? Turn the ignition switch to the on position, not start, and off, five times. On the fifth time, immediately after turning on, press the trip reset button for a few seconds. Some people say hold the trip reset button the whole time but this did a "Gauge or Panel Test" on our model XJ. The odometer should go through 11111, 22222, 33333, ...., 99999, 00000. then it will show the error codes. Once the error codes have been shown, you will see the numbers "55" which is the end code or means all codes have been shown. Link to the flash codes are http://www.troublecodes.net/jeep/cherokee-2-54-0l-grand-cherokee-4-05-2l-wrangler-2-54-0l-1996-1997/ There are other flash codes with slight variations for the different years and you may have to check them as well. I don't have a link to them at the moment. Goto JustJeeps.com (not the cheapest) and they have manuals there for changing parts. Look in the Ignition System section on changing the crank position sensor.
I have a 1995 Jeep Cherokee which is the OBD1. And I didn't get any codes on mine when the engine would randomly died. I believe I've solve my problem so far
The clutch fan is on the left when you're standing in front of your jeep with the hood open. It's like 40 bucks at AutoZone here in the US. It's the bigger fan with no wires going to it
Hello Bob, the fan you are talking about would be your passenger side? $40 is a good price. Cheaper for us to buy a whole Jeep just for the fan than to buy a new fan.
Yes on the passenger side.
So I've still been having a problem with the randomly shutting down. Alas some guys I know with Jeep Cherokee's what do they recommend I do. They said my neutral safety switch on the passenger side of the transmission may be the cause. Remove it take it apart and clean all the old grease and grit out of it. Reassemble with dielectric grease. I've done that and I'm waiting to see what's going to happen
I can't wait to find out if that works, as I am having the same problem...Let us know Please...
I have a 94 XJ and now it shuts off after it warms up. I guess, welcome to the crowd! The fuel pressure stays at 30, seems low for a fuel injected vehicle...not sure what they are supposed to be at while running. It's at 40 during the start cycle then drops down. But, I don't think it's a fuel issue. Recommendations? Coil and CPS?
White69couger. I'm not A mechanic, I'm just the guy with the XJ it's having problems. I'm throwing parts at it and hoping something works. If you read everything that I've posted , It's the things that I've done I'm still scratching my head. I did replace the throttle position sensor but come to find out it was bad, I was getting moisture in it. I put the old one back on and seems to be working fine.
I also took out my neutral safety switch and cleaned all the old Grease and grime out of it. It was a recommendation told me and so far I haven't had any problems.
OK EVERYONE LISTEN UP; If you own a jeep grand cherokee, as I do (2000 year), you know how frustrating they can be. Maybe you wake up in the morning to go to start your jeep annd sure enough it doesnt fire, or you're driving down the road and it dies as you slow down or going up a hill- most of the time it fires back up, however this isnt always the case. If you are having the same problems as i've had, and by the looks of it most of you do, then I hope this helps. Today I took my jeep to Central Auto in Blountville, TN, of course after dealing with many other mechanics and replacing the crankshaft, camshaft, 02 sensors, fuel filter and so on without any success, and trust me when I tell you this guy knows what he is talking about. He's dealt with these problems for many years on many jeeps, and has quite expensive scanner in which can read just about anything, unlike a lot of other garages you might come in contact with.Anyways, what Ive gained from taking my jeep to him and after dealing and gathering info for years, is find a mechanic who has dealt with these problems specifically ( shop until you fine one, it will be worth it!) With mine, he discovered and enlightened me, that it makes all the difference in the brand name parts that go into these jeeps. About a year ago i had my camshaft sensor replaced with a cheap part and sure enough the same problems persisted. Rick at central auto discovered with his scanner a bad camshaft sensor, and told me to replace with a mopar camshaft part which is what ill do thursday when it arrives. Make sure whatever code specific to your jeep gets erased, before you go putting a part in. Im not positive this will do the trick, but ill keep everyone informed if it does. In the meantime I suggest you go to a chrystler dealership or where ever you can find the original MOPAR parts, before taking it to a garage in which may very well stick some cheap parts in your jeep, as they did in my case, and youll notice the problem persisting. Im not a mechanic, or a car enthusiast, I do have some basic knowledge tailored to these jeep grand cherokees as I have dealt with them for 11 years now, so believe me I feel your pain. Ill get back on here soon and hopefully provide everyone with some much needed relief.
I hope you can figure out the problem and keep it resolved "cfleenor20". Keep us posted. I haven't had any issues with my Cherokee lately. I did find that the "tps" throttle positioning sensor I had replaced was defective. The aftermarket TPS I installed had a gap in it where moisture was getting into it. I installed the original and have had no problems. I also found a vacuum leak repaired that. My Jeeps been running good for about three weeks now
98 cherokee . Mine just started dying . First it was a hesitation when I pulled out after driving about 30 minutes . I would let out off of the fuel for a split seccond and it was good . Now it has died 3 different times . I dont want to throw money at it . If you find a solution please let us know . After reading all these post here and from othwr sites , the only 2 solutions I have seen different from all the sensor changing , coils , TPS , Cam sensor etc...is that one person said a vapor lock in the fuel canister . And Bob with the neutral safety switch . May be time for a different vehicle .
Randy, With the 1998 Cherokee I have read it's the three screws to the pcm "computer ". The screws are to long and the connections come loose. The solution I read on that year is put some washers behind the three screws it's internal on the computer and zip tie the three plugs to the computer. Making good connections tight with the zip ties. I hope that helps you. Mines a 95 and I have one single plug to the computer. There might be a recall on yours as well might want to check it out. Mines too old for the recall. Hope that helps you.
Here is the Chrysler recall # 1-800-992- 1997.
Bob . The recall was for front rotors and the airbag control module . Not the computer. Just an update on the 98 cherokee 4.0 . If anybody else is intetestex
I put the screws on the computer . After talking with my buddy , he said fuel pump . I was thinking that at the start , so I put a pump in the tank . 3.5 hrs including taking my parts back and getting the right ones
Not fuel pump or screws
Not fuel pump relay .im thinking ignition switch .
I'm still having the problem. Not as much. I'm thinking bad connection on the computer. Idk
im also having a problem with my 90 jeep cherokee it was running fine and then i was leaving work one night ago and it just quit on me and want start bck and it is also not getting fire through the plugs i stuck a screw driver in the plug wire and held the metal part and it didn't shock me what do yall think it could be help please its my daily.
Jeepguy201 . Try the ignition switch first . I still havent fixed mine yet . But thats what I want to do next . Im afraid mine might be the computer , which cost $325 .let me know if you figure yours out .
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport, nearly 200,000 miles, error codes were or are evap system, cylinder not firing. I have been having the same problem for a while now. Problems starting, sometimes stalls out at lights/stop signs. I used do the keep it above 1000 rpms trick. I dont have to do that anymore and actually I simply bought a new battery and ignored the problem for a while, some time its takes a while to start but it will eventually. Been looking into the problem again recently because now it gives me a real hard time starting and been running pretty bad. Now its stalling while driving never had that problem before and the check gauges light comes on the oil pressure indicator drops real low. I have read other forums concerning this issue on jeep blogs. Allot of the same issues people here are mentioning. Constantly changing parts but nothing fixes it. Kinda why I just kinda ignore it. I will say that other blogs do cite the PCM as the main problem but still, as here, people fix that and still have the problem. So I am not so sure if I explained myself that well. its kinda late and im not sure if I have to sign up to comment here. So ill try to communicate better later. Kinda hoping that this oil pressure thing is some kind of lead for someone more mechanically advanced than I. Further, I intend on looking into the evap problem this weekend. Ah screw it, I'll sign up.
i will add a twist to this. I have a Grand Cherokee 5.9. It dies almost everytime I make a sharp left turns not anyother time. I have put in a new pump assy, changed PCM, fuel relay, idle control, battery, and have pulled on wires trying to duplicate. Any ideas here? I am going to switch out the CPS and coil but do not see how left turns would effect either but out of ideas
Only around a turn sure sounds like a wiring connection coming loose. Are your motor mounts good? You could be shifting a lot of weight if they need to be replaced.
randy ive been told it could be the cps or coil
I took it to a local garage to a guy I know really well he is into drag racing/ classic cars. I explained to odd deal and he is going to look at it. I have ordered a coil and crank position sensor just hard to understand why on left turns unless it is a ground connection. I am sure if the mounts are bad he will call me. Will update
Some update on my 94 XJ. I haven't driven this except for around the property, a little hard to trust the thing... But anyhow, while it was running one evening I could get it to stall by banging on top of the steering column. It started and died at least 4 times by doing that, then it quit stalling. Since then, it's been good. I'm pulling the column to check for loose wiring and take a peak at the ignition switch. More to follow...
Why haven't these jeep producers been held accountable for knowingly putting people in dangerous situations and knowingly selling faulty equipment? Isn't this illegal? Why haven't they been made to put a recall? Fined or sued like Toyota etc.. This has to be so in their face but allowed to turn a blind eye.
I posted on here about a month ago and I was hoping to respond sooner than now, but the good news is my 2000 jeep grand cherokee is RUNNING LIKE NEW AGAIN! Finally, after 3 weeks of being in the garage, checking and replacing sensors, coils, switches, pumps, relays, blah blah blah. By a lucky chance, my mechanic discovered a malfunction in the computer not putting out enough volts (or something like that.) Anyways, the solution to all my problems was that I needed a new COMPUTER! It's been running great for the past week that I've had it back. It was well worth the $350 part cost and $200 labor cost! I hope this helps a lot of you all and I know it could be many different things but seein how I've had many of the exact same problems as all of you, I would point this solution out to your mechanic if all else has failed.
That's great news.
Well that sucks that you had to spend that much. I just figured out that it was my main wiring harness from the ecu. The wight of the cable was pulling it down so much that it was actually pulling the connections down away from the ecu. I used some silicone to keep them in place and jammed a piece of plastic between my antifreeze reservoir and the connections. No problems since.
Jermey, Oh trust me, the wiring harness has been checked long ago- I wouldn't spend the money if I hadnt ruled out all the less expensive fixes prior. It seems like a lot of money, but after all the breakdowns, headaches, and other problems the jeep has caused me over the years it is well worth it, in my opinion!
My left turn problem solved. a screw in the wiring harness around the transfer case from above rubbed through a wire leading to the a short of the crank position sensor. Lucky to find it.
Update . my 98 Cherokee problem was the CPS (crank sensor) .I put one on last week after it died on me 5 times in a 10 minute ride to work . it's been doing great ever since. You can check the CPS with an ohm meter . auto zone checked mine compared to the new one and there was a big difference . you don't have to take it off to check it , just unplug it and and check between b & c connection , it should read 0 .
I found the problem with mine doing the same thing. I replaced several things costing hundreds of dollars. It turned out to be the coil terminal. The connection was loose. All I did was take the two wires out of the plastic connector and squeeze the female part tighter. It was harder to put back on but it doesn't stall anymore. Try wiggling the wires on the coil while it's running or get someone to crank it as you wiggle it. That'll tell you right away if that's the issue. Good luck.
Crankshaft position sensor replacement fixed my problem. Immediately made idle better. Have not experienced shut down since.
I have a 1992 jeep cherokee just rolled over to 300×××. Just a few days ago she started to idle funny and die at stop lights so I have to put her in neutral when stopped or slowing down but she always starts immediately after she did. any idea what it is?
I have had my 98 Jeep Cherokee one year today..The first month was fine and then it started cutting off and we started looking for answers on here..For 5 months I could not drive it in the rain and it would take 7 to 9 times to crank it to get 15 miles..My son is a mechanic and he was at a lose so he went to pull-a-part and got new clips to go on the wiring harness to the brain and replaced those; He also pulled the brain off and opened it up and took the Jello out of it ( yes I said Jello ) It comes with this jell inside the Brain and is suppose to be a moisture protecto ( not the case,its like jello when it gets moisture and causes shutdown)..When it put it all back together it was still running too rich with gas,,The previous owner took off the Cataylac Converter and put on a muffler; That's fine but it screws up the computer on how much fuel its suppose to send and causes it to run really rich and surge a lot; so we bought the sensor that was in the converter and drilled a hole in the exhaust pipe leading to the muffler and screwed the sensor in and plugged it up ( thank God they didn't cut the plug off)..Doing this caused the brain to be fooled into thinking it had a converter on it and that straightened it out..The last thing we did was to go back to MOPAR PARTS..All Jeeps come from the Factory with Mopar Parts on them..My Coil was brand new and no problem but I replaced it with a Mopar..Not everyone carries Mopar but you can order online and even if you pay a little more it fixes most problems first time..I am Happy to Report I have been driving my jeep for 6 months;Problem free and Thank God for my Mechanic Intelligent Son and Cargurus suggestions...Praying for all of Yall with Jeeps..( I just rolled over 300.000 miles)
I have a 1996 jeep cherokee sport 4x4 and some of the driving and shutting down issues could be due to a loose distributor shaft, some symptoms could be stuttering, dying at all rpms lack of power and cutting out. Just a few and now in battling it's issue now which is probably vapor lock when the weather gets hot but with it already cooling down hasn't acted up again so not gonna fix it . But for some of you check your distributor shaft may be the problem may not be ignition systems that control spark on mine is the distributor, crankshaft position sensor and coil could have shorted or open wires to some or you could have a faulty part
I have a 2003 GC Laredo, it has been having trouble starting for about a month or so now. It will start just usually takes me turning the ignition twice before it does. It's not overheating, I was sitting at a red light and it cut off. I was able to start it right back up. Then this morning on the way to work, sitting at a red light again, it cut off and would not turn back on. I never hear any weird sounds, see anything weird coming from the car when starting the car or when driving. it just take a couple times to start it up. I'm PRAYING it's just the battery.
I have a 95 Jeep Cherokee. I have had most of the problems mentioned here. As for the random shut off and starting back up, I took the computer Orr the firewall as cleaned all my connections, grounds and screws with fuel injection cleaner. Solved 90% of the issues. Hope that helps.
Hi all I've read several of your questions and comments but I've got a unique issue with my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0. I just installed a brand new engine from Gearhead and new transmission and new rear end the only thing that has not been done is the muffler but it has zero power. When you put the gas to the floor it does very little to get out of its own way and you can't back over a speed bump it's ridiculously weak. Has anyone got any ideas about what this could be? Replaced everything except the PCM and throttle positioning sensor and stuff around the throttle body but I did clean out the throttle body itself so I was hoping that would help but it has not. It feels like there's a bad ground and I've gone through all the grounds and make sure that they are completely polished with wire brush and no kind of chemicals on the metals to prevent contact. Anything would be great guys.
I had the same problem when I replace my catalytic converter. I found that my muffler was plugged and I couldn't get it to go past 35 miles an hour. So you could have a plugged catalytic converter and muffler. Hope that helps
I took the last catalytic converter near the muffler and gutted it so it shouldn't be that, plus it revs up perfectly, I'm thinking torque converter now......thanks for the input and if there's any other ideas throw them out here, we're stumped.......I'll update with results, hopefully soon.
So I am seeing this is a common thing with Jeeps. I have a 1997 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0L V6 straight 6, and a little over 182k miles. I have already changed the plugs, replaced the cap, ignition coil, wires, tps, air change sensor, radiator, oil pressure sensor, and a brake flush as it was flashing brake on dash. and I am still having the same problem. When I first start it up it runs fine,then die at times. like i run inside come back out 5 mins later engine off , but radio on light on etc. latly its ike im not fuel injected. meaning to start it i pump my gas pedal. If I am parking it dies losing all rpms to 0 I have to turn the key off and sometimes it will start back up immediately and hold its own rpms with out my help and sometimes it takes up to a minute. I have noticed that if I sit with my foot on the gas and break and keep my engine at at lease 1,000 rpm it will not die when it is acting up and if I don't do that it will die on me. However, if I am on the interstate,it runs perfectly. It has a lot of power and runs great.all electronics works. The fuel pressure is normal and the pump is fine. I seeing online abunch of stuff about a crank shaft sensor but it could be the ASD RELAY, Does that sound about right? Any suggestions before I start just replacing everything like i have been. since march i dropped 600 cash in her so im oe to fix it but im kinda stumped
Neil Jeffxj420 I have a very similar problem with my 96 XJ, 250K miles. Starts and runs great. Drove 10 mi into town and 10 mi back the other day no problem. Went to go back into town a few hours later drove about 5 miles and coming to a stop sign the engine rpm was high, 1200 RPM according to the stock tach., and it stalled as I came to a stop. Cranks over but won't start. Floored the pedal like it was flooded and it started. It sputtered I had to keep the rpms way up for a short time and it straightened out. Drove the other five miles into town 3 of it at 70 on the hwy and it did the same thing at the next stop. Again it was like it was flooded. Held the pedal to the floor and it started with the sputtering and then OK. When I left town for home it ran fine the whole way, 10 miles of hwy and back roads. I put my code reader on and no codes were stored. Went through all the checks without replacing any parts yet. I have read somewhere that jeeps are bad about any voltage loss. I went right to my battery and pulled the replacement cable ends off and clean the posts, the stripped wire ends, and cable ends and then put it all back together. Starts up as usual. Then I checked all ground straps. everything looks good. I did unplug the wire harness from the cruise control under the hood just in case that was part of the problem. If the problem still shows it ugly head, the next check will be the steering column harness. I have had the cruise buttons do strange things.
Update. After cleaning all battery and ground connections no more stalls. I had also unplugged the cruise control because I have had strange happenings when pushing the control buttons. I will reconnect the cruise and see what happens.
My last 96 XJ had these problems. Drive it for 10 miles and it would die. A while later it would finally start and then down the road die again. After going through everything, a Jeep master mechanic told me to string a wire from the ignition switch to the shut down solenoid. If it solved the problem, make it permanent. It solved my problems. It seems that Jeep soldered wires into the main bundle of wires to make tap offs to the various devices. Those connections go bad in the bundle. You can't find them without tearing the whole wiring harness apart. He just said to feed that wire from both ends and it will solve the problem. No more problems for the next 4 years. Still OK when I sold it. I don't remember the wire colors. Sorry.
Whoa, whoa, whoa Martyuma....you have the magic fix!! We need to find out which wire in the ignition to tap. To many Jeep owners suffering here! Add me to the list. I want to take my kids out on some trails. We need to get together here and fix all of our Jeeps!!!
It's been a while since I had that Jeep, but here is what my old info says. Tap one end of the new wire to the start/run wire coming from the ignition switch. Pull the trim cover from the steering column and you can access it. I can't remember the color for sure, but your test light should tell you which one it is. Hot only when the key is on. The other end goes to the automatic shut down relay ignition input wire. Hot when the key is on. (The other end of the same wire). It MIGHT be Dark Brown. Relay Terminal 18? The relay is one of them in the fuse box, in the engine compartment, on the right fender well. IF bad connections are causing your problems, and you get the wire in the correct place it will PROBABLY solve your problems. It did solve mine.
Hey guys it's the asd relay I replaced everything and come to find out it's the automatic shut down relay
Automatic shut down relay!! HAHA That's just mean! Thanks for the tip. I'll try a new one or try the wire tap solution if that doesn't work. Thanks
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