Front disc brakes are locking up after about 10 minutes of driving
Inspect brakes for issues. Possible rubber brake line to calipers is internally collapsing and not letting the pressure off.
Ok how many miles on the brake pads? Do you detect any odors before they lock? Completely lock in to a skid or just tighten up, and if so real tight or just a drag? I know, full of questions but need that info to try figure out was' happenin'
More...does it happen after using brakes or still happen if you don't. I realize it's not realistic to drive 10 minutes without applying brakes
Cars have redundant brakes. They have a 2-stage master cylinder if one plunger or slave cylinder fails, you will still have brakes, at least on two wheels One stage works on two wheels, on some cars one stage front and one rear, others one stage for one front and one rear but opposite sides, never same side front and rear
I bought the Rodeo last year, and was told it had new brakes put on. Since then I have driven it only around 5000 miles. It drives OK in the early morning, but usually happens in the afternoon after using the brakes in normal city driving. No lockup, only gradual slowing as the calipers tighten. Then burning smell and smoke as I try to get out of traffic. After the vehicle sits and cools, it is OK again.
The calipers are not releasing properly. Gimme a few minutes to look in to this..
Sorry dandy for butting in. I should have shut up, because the most common cause is....drum roll....collapsed lines. But there is another possibility, Metering Valve: In a brake system with disc front and drum rear, there is a valve in the system known as a metering valve or hold-off valve. This valve basically allows the rear drums to apply first in the system. It does this through a small sliding valve operating on spring pressure. If this valve is sticking or has become weak, it may be keeping pressure applied to the system. If this is the case, replace the valve as necessary.
click the image ...also the return spring if broken or weak will not allow pressure release
Sounds good, but I have discs on all four. Would that still be the issue?
No. That is for rear drums. But... Front brakes do 70% of the stopping, so that proportioning valve is so the rear will do two things...apply slightly ahead of front to prevent fish-tailing, too much on fron only and the rear end will want to be in front..direction you are going especially in a panic stop, and also to just get them to do some work. Does it have ABS?
See, this first plunger sends pressure to rear then front after but also redundant in case a brake line breaks
Changed out front brake hoses and still have brakes locking up. But this time, after driving awhile, they seemed to unlock and the car drove normally. Should I still rebuild the proportioning valve/master cylinder?
Wait and see if it keeps working. After a, say, month or about 500 to 1.000 miles, all is well. No need to do that. But if they go back to dragging, I would . Both. I know, easy for me to say, not my money but brakes are a life-and-death component, no reason to take chances. If you know what you're doing, you can DIY. Or buy new/rebuilt. But that line may have been the problem all along.
I had the exact same problem. Replace the brake calibers on both sides, as this is a common fault with rodeos. Works perfect now. You can also get a caliper repair kit which is cheaper but you need a mechanic with the patience to replace all the seals etc, if you don't do it yourself.
Old topic I know. But my tf pick up 1993 has the same issues. Rear wheels locking up after say 3 miles. Cool down then fine again for another say 3 Miles.have changed brake hoses and master cylinder but still have issue... any ideas where to start next? Thanks in advance. Paddy.
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