1989 Chevy Cheyenne
Truck will stall and jerk until clutch is engaged and
throttle is reved up a couple times.
I've posted about this truck before and after
installing serval new parts I finally got the truck to
idle and drive down the road. However, the truck
has had this intermittent stalling in various gears
that has not gone away. I took the truck to my local
Chevrolet dealership, they kept it for 5 months, and
they where unable to fix it. They even went behind
what I done to the truck and uninstalled all the new
parts I put on and installed used parts. Costed
1200 for that service. Anyway, I got it back and
installed a clutch, still have the same issue.
Did they check the fuel delivery system? Proper fuel pressure is what I'm getting at? Checked for vacuum leaks?
Yes, they ran through the entire fuel system. Checked for all vacuum leaks. Put a new computer in, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, swapped out throttle body, swapped out distributor assembly, new AIC, TPS, and plugs and wires. Bypassed EGR valve, only way to keep it idle. And had to raise the idle on it too. Still the truck will shut off the gas or whatever electrical part and stall. But I can engage the clutch and revve the engine a couple times and it will drive on.
What about checking the engine compression? Every thing has ben done for it to run properly, unless there is excessive slop in the timing chain.
I have not personally checked the compression on the engine. The Chevy dealership stated they did and all was fine. Engine has less than 40000 miles on it. I guess the timing chain could have some slop in it. I also have noticed that when the climate control is used the stall happens more often. Any way the dash wiring harness would cause the stalling?
This is beginning to sound electrical. 40,000 there is nothing going to be wrong with the timing chain or engine compression. Rules that out. 5 months at a dealership? And didn't get it right? WTF. I hate dealerships. Have you checked back with them, what do they say about this.
Neutral Safety Switch / Range Sensor or Clutch Pedal Position / Starter Safety Switch or Speed Sensor. The cruise circuits disengage when depressing the clutch, Cruise Control Release Switch or Cruise Control Switch. Any of these wiring circuit as-well. Ported Vacuum Switch, here is a way to loose your vacuum, fine when lean mixtures for idle and highway cruising (slow burn) but when rich mixtures & timing vacuum advance calibrations are needed to speed up (fast burn), no vac means no vacuum advance timing vacuum advance calibrations.
The HVAC uses vacuum too. You turn it on its start doing the symptoms. I may lean toward vacuum problems.
Rowefast: That was my thoughts as well. They wanted to charge me 2300 for doing nothing, in my opinion. I had to talk with the owner and they reluctantly took the labor off of the bill. I did go back by and talk with them about this and their words "it was running fine when it left here". So yes, I don't have much use for the local dealership anymore. Engine creator: I had thoughts that the safety switch my be faulty and will replace this weekend. The dealership said they pulled vacuum and all was well. However, after seeing their workmanship and given the truck is still not right...I will check the vacuum. Thanks guys! This gives me a new path to chase down the gremlins in my truck. It is appreciated!
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