Curious and wondered if anyone has tried resisters. Like on my 89 chevy K1500 i put one on O2 sensor. Headers were messing it up. No more code runs fine.
I seen a few sites where they talk about do it yourself vs performance chips. Say u put a resister in front of the temp sensor. So Ecm thinks it is always at perfect running condition. I put one at 5% resistance in front of my O2 and no more code are running rich.
sure there are several 02 sensors there one before the cat, one after the cat and one at the exhaust manifold...recommend DO NOT monkey with any of these...do not outsmart~ there is plenty of power there...make sure it has fresh filters and plugs.....and clean gas without rust chips in it~...stick with factory please~
is rusty and in need of replacement...not a real fun job but the header might be leaky...bad for your air, bad noise...bad performance...plenty replacements out there~
Those are used by a lot of off-roaders to keep the check engine light off during full power pulls or WOT mud running, when O2 sensors would be overwhelmed the resistors maintane a reading that the old OBD 1 computers would recognize as still operational, but you won't be able to get by with them on the newer OBD 2 systems.
I have one O2 i put it in collectors. Thats all it had when we rebuilt motor. I have a purple wire no where to go passenger side though. Also i wired alternator thourgh stock plug. It only had a brown wire and one power wire on back. So i have jumper wire power to power in plug. Gauge works but brown wire is broken in dash passenger side not sure where to go with it. I ran wire off tach wire on coil. Then power to plug out buzz box orange hot wire. Its a ZLb4 4.3. Ill take any help i can get. Thanks.
Some i started unplugging sensors and vaccum lines one day. No change till i pull line off front going to egr solenoid. Plugging back in the map made motor stumble then started working. Ive got performance cam headers intake exhaust dizzy etc. Still pulls like stock and u cant hear cam u could at first. If u drive some where and dont stay long it will fluid out plugs and oil. Stock and now its cold natured like a carb motor.
That could be the ECM getting it programming messed up, have you tried a hard reset too see if it straighten out? You may have to invest in a reprogrammer to compensate for the cam and headers.
what we have here is an inability for the computer to sense the air/fuel mix because the temperature sensing is not correct~ am going out on a limb and will suggest the IAT sensor is faulty~ https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dfp-ts10080? seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_- delphi&gclid=CjwKEAjwydK_BRDK34GenvLB61YSJACZ8da3YA WarwkxOOTN5W1EqU- 22vI25HhRnU4WuTXWpIachhoCB_bw_wcB
I thought maybe limp mode. I tried to find a bypass but couldnt. I changed iac it worked then quit. Now check light on but code 12 and iac light with a and b jumped. Pulled dizzy over and over. Seen guy put it in diagnostic mode and injectors spayed when oil pumped ingaged. I dont have indicator so on compression stroke im at 1:00-4:00. Aftetmarket damper has two marks.
Find someone that has an old OBD1 scanner that can read sensor and ECM inputs and outputs, maybe then you can see what is reading incorrectly.
I dont have Iat? I jumped A to H code 12 the iac light came on. I jumped A to C and B to C. Couldnt remember which. The iac is in the hole now and no light. Battey light came on didnt know it worked. Tried to start battery was to weak. It was charging low when i parked it. Thats why i wired in stock plug made 3 wire.
Hey if yall dont respone anymore on this form. Thsnk yall very much for the help. Im still learning but i love turning wreches. Even though it wasnt his job my dad was the best i seen. Always fixed them they never came back because it lasted. Ive seen him in my life pull 20 motors in a morning. That night it fired first try. It wasnt road ready yet though. Lol
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