Chevy K1500 crank no start occasionally.
Chevy K1500, crank no start. just bought it, the owner said it had a bad battery and had it on the charger. I drove it straight home. Next day it fired up no problem. Ever since then it will either not start or start almost ona daily basis it changes. One day it works, the next it doesnt. when it works it will crank over 10 times in a row. Go out next day and nothing. I can hear fuel pump, Tried starter in the TB with nothing. Cleaned battery cables and new battery. Took it to a mechanic, computer said Crank position sensor, they replaced it for 425 dollars(ripped off). They could not get it to not start. Got it home, next day no start. Distributor cap looks new, no bare wires or anything out of place. no security light on. Any suggestions would be great. This is kiling me and I have no more money to feed the mechanic.
I always start with fuses, relays under hood and dash. Grounds, Engine to block ground. Computer ground for loose. Test for firing and fuel pressure when its not cranking. Many times when the crank position sensor code is set you also need to test the ignition control module and coils because they work hand in hand with the PCM.
Would fuses be accurate if the truck is starting every other day?
I had a blown fuse it set a code I cleaned the sensor, light came back on as soon as I cleared it. It started and ran for weeks until one day it would crank and when I went to go to drive it died. I went threw the fuses again and found it. Bad fuse is all it was, I had missed it first look, not saying all your issue is bad fuse but it is worth checking them.
Just start at the basics you have to start somewhere or end up going everywhere backwards is all I am saying.
Are you saying that it won't crank? Or that it'll crank but not run? If it won't crank check the neutral safety switch. Try starting it in neutral instead of park. It could also be a dying starter. Try tapping the starter with a hammer. If it'll crank but not run try spraying some starting fluid down the throttle body. It should run a few seconds on the starting fluid. If so it's a fuel problem. Possibly the injectors aren't spraying. If it won't run on the starting fluid it's an ignition problem (no spark). HTH. -Jim
I tried everything on my 89 Chevy it went a month no problem one time. The ground to my fender was lose. Took ran to frame good to go.
The issue is crank no start. And up until replacing the crankshaft position sensor it would start every other day. Example: saturday start right up, drive it to walmart, then get groceries then run to my buddies house. Then home. no problem, next day. crank no start. Thanks for the advice on the fuses. Ill go check those right now.
Checked the fuses and didnt see any problems. The colored plastic ones werent broken. I am unsure how to test the box fuses for the fuel pump etc. They looked okay though.
Do like Js08016 said above there try some starter fluid down throttle body when its not starting to know. If it tries to crank then no fuel, if nothing changes then not spark, Your our eyes and ears, let us know the outcome.
In the OP i mentioned dumping starter in the TB. No dice. Also I am pretty sure I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the on postion.
I ordered a scan tool off of amazon and borrowing a multi meter. Hopefully those will help me test the relays and look for any codes. Any more advice in the interim would be help ful.
I would test crank sensor, well all sensors and wire you can get the instructions too test, Haynes manual or internet search, youtube, Instructables is like a school on the net.
Mentioned in Original post that the CPS was replaced by the mechanic. I should also mention when it isnt starting there is the sorta "puff puff" sound after I stop cranking it, like it is trying to fire but wont. kinda like if the truck had one to many burritos.
Yea, its got fire then or at least some fire. It may have an issue that at this time is intermediate, if you can locate it now then may some headache later.
Either by eye or by meter check the connections and wires to and from the crank position sensor, also the computer uses the crank sensor to make data to send to the ignition control module and then this is sent to coils. Since you had a code and replaced it already then Looking at these would be next or actually the shop you took it to should of checked everything else before replacing it and charging so much for not fixing the issue but that is they way shops do today, they are parts changer and are not repair men.
Thanks EC, I will take a look at the connections for it. Hopefully Wed. I will have the scantool. Maybe something new will come up. I am looking into testing the ICM and coil now. Will update as soon as I learn anything.
Here is one I will put it below, copy & paste to new browser window,
And another icm test in-case that one above is not yours,
That did it. Tested the spark from coil which was fine, figure based on the tutorial I didnt need to check the ICM. The plug to the distributor cap seemed loose when I took it off. I made sure all the connections in there were back in tight. Engine fired right up when I was testing one of the spark plugs out. So reconnecting the coil seemed to correct the issue. I will check it again tomorrow and see if I can get consistent. If it doesnt start again I will replace the distributor cap and rotor.. Thank you so much for helping me through this.
Great, Hope thats all it is. Your welcome.
Of course the truck didnt start this morning. Started and stopped that truck 8 times up until 10 pm. Come out early this morning on my way to work and crank, no start. :P I am going to try to reproduce what I did yesterday and confirm which part is actually failing.
Reproduced the work I did yesterday all the way to the distributor. No start but after pulling some spark plug wires and cleaning the distributor cap it fired up again. drove a 3 times yesterday. Came out this morning and it wouldnt start. I am going to replace the distributor cap and rotor, sparkplug wires and spark plugs.
What year is the truck
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