85 Chevy C10 keeps blowing water pump gaskets and wont move

40

Asked by ghicks77 Feb 08, 2017 at 12:09 PM about the 1985 Chevrolet C/K 10 Silverado LB RWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

So on Monday I got a 1985 Chevy c10. The truck had just got new water pump gaskets put on because the old ones were leaking and caused it to over heat. So after I replaced them I took it for a drive and after it reached so much rpms it would shift any higher it wouldn't go into 3rd shift so I did a little research and fixed my tv cable which worked so yesterday I was driving it and it was fine shifting fine and all then as I was going down the highway about 55 mph it seemed to act funny and when I looked down the water temperature guage was reading 260 and about the time I pulled over on the side of the road it started steaming badly and when I looked under the hood the water pump gaskets were blown again and the coolant was completely empty. Then after it cooled down for about 30 mins a man stopped and gave me some anti freeze and he needed in his driveway which I was blocking so I had to move. It was doing ok going up hill to my house which was less than a mile away and then it started overheating quickly with no place to pull off so I made it to the top of the hill and pulled off and the guage was a little over 280 then another man gave me a pull to my house and when we were going down a little hill I found out my breaks weren't working and hit his hitch a little then we finally made it home the breaks still wouldn't work and we just put it in park because it was in neutral and turned it off thinking it needed more time to cool off. So this morning I went out to see if it would pull into the garage. It fired right up but when I put it into drive it just reved up then it began to roll back because of the little hill of my driveway, so after putting my foot down and putting it back into park I just left it off. Does anyone have any solutions that could help me without spending a fortune on a new tranny or motor?

11 Answers

40

Oh and its got the original 305 in it with a 700r4 tranny motor has 70k miles tranny has 40k

1 people found this helpful.
220,815

I believe you have a major problem like a crack in the head or block. A motor does not survive after getting so hot. And I don't know why all of a sudden your trany would not work. I would do a compression test on the cylinders, more than likely there will be a low one. This would indicate a blown head gasket or a crack somewhere. The thermostat may have cause all this.

101,515

Go through that entire cooling system, check for blockages/good flow in radiator, working tstat, may also want to check for the dreaded blown head gasket with Block Tester. Then you have the brake problems, I wouldn't even put it on the road until those have been gone through thoroughly. And then the transmission...

101,515

Compression test: you can rent the tools for that at most auto parts shops. Some will give you an instruction sheet as well, but just look that up online. Haynes' and Chilton's have those as well.

220,815

You can go to your local parts store and rent one. You take out the spark plugs and screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole. Then you turn the engine over a few times, and the gauge will read the compression of the cylinder. Good compression is 145 to 155 pound per square inch. Anything under 120 is getting too low, but I would suspect you would find more like 20 to 50. Disable the ignition when you do this so your spark is not flying all over the place. And just in-case everything is good, mark the location of each spark plug wire.

220,815

The brake probably did not work because the engine was not running to create vacuum. If you push hard enough on them I'm sure they work.

101,515

Helps to take digital pics of the engine before pulling any plugs, wires or hoses, as well as tag them. When you do your compression test, a simple rule is to look for any cylinder that's more than 15% less than the others.

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