cold air intakes
You mean like put a y-pipe on the throttle body and run two tubes from it to separate filters? I can't think of any sensors that connect up stream of the tb, so technically yes, but the better question is why? The Y pipe will add turbulence and decrease center line flow of the air which will likely increase resistance and decrease power. Additionally your car can eat only a certain amount of air without pressurizing the system so having two pipes will reduce the air speed in those two pipes, giving it more time to heat up... Once again decreasing power... Dual intakes are generally on vehicles with v-banks or boxer style engines where separating flow is preferable... In an inline 4 though it's kinda stupidity using stock tb and manifolds... I'm sure there are examples, but I'd bet they have either multiple tb or interesting manifold designs to make them work efficiently.
ok just wondering, but a single cold air is no problem though....yes no
Would be fine, infact I'm almost positive there are many premade kits out there... I would recommend shopping around for what suits you best cost v performance v looks. Also keep in mind the short ram air intakes rarely make power gain because they pull in hot, under hood, air. Generally good CAI kits pull the air from under the car, but if you drive through deep enough of a puddle they can pull water in and cause hydro-lock. If you get one of these systems, spend the extra 20-30 bucks for the bypass valve... I understand AEM makes one that barely effects airflow
I agree with your argument for the most part, however - when the car is moving, so is the air inside the engine bay. Sure, initially the short ram may be taking in 'hot air' under the hood but only until the car starts moving. What should really be a factor in making power is the length and diameter of the piping used. In general, a smaller diameter and longer pipe length will reach it's max air velocity faster in the rpm range. You also want the diameter to be roughly larger than the throttle body to create some vacuum. In short, it means that short ram has potential gains higher in the rpm range while cold air is more towards the mid range. Playing with the diameter size will either shift the gains up or down. Also, adding in the bypass valve also defeats the purpose of a cold air system. I believe there was a dyno comparison done awhile back but having the bypass will definitely save you from hydro-lock. Overall, an intake is simply one part of the larger intake system. In the end, it's just a pipe and filter/velocity stack.
good stuff. true true true.
Funny you asked this question. I had a K&N short ram system on my CRX SI and replaced it with a true cold air with by-pass valve. A friend of mine bought the exact car you have. I looked at the engine and my short ram bolted up to it as an exact match. I kid you not, that one addition made the engine come alive. Hyundai must really have those engines restricted as far as air intake goes. I am estimating of course, and often it's difficult to FEEL a genuine improvement in "giddy-up." This car made considerable gains that you could actually FEEL! So, by all means, add the cold air; you will be amazed by the difference.
Extremely well written and explained. Often, a lot of "wannabes" that read Import Tuner get on here and give a lot of PISS POOR advise. I'd like to say WELCOME to one of the few that actually has knowledge....Great Job!
BTW...David, you've proven your knowledge on too many occasions....you know your stuff too! I agree with you completely on this one. He did a Great write.
Hey, if you come across that dyno comparing intakes with bypass valves, post it here... I haven't seen a dyno for 'em yet and would like to see how much of an effect they have.
I have a A/C coil inside my air filter box and connected to my A/C custom done i get 5 miles more per gallon, engine runs cooler and better pick up. down side the A/C has to run all the time in the summer for better pick up and better gas miles.
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