Where is opening to put manual transmission oil
Changed Manual trans oil. where is the port to put the new oil in it. Through the hole under the car or the
opening on top.
There are 2 ways to do it, the easy way is to take the speed sensor out and use a funnel, and a long hose on the end. Or there is a 17mm bolt on the passangers side of the trans next to the axle. You will need a funnel and hose for this way as well. I have done both i work on hondas only Hettboy that is for a auto trans he has a manual trans. manual has no dip stick
crap, your right. nevermind.... i feel stupid now...
Alex, where is the speed sensor? Is the funnel with long hose used from the top & the 17mm bolt from the bottom? (also, I'm using 10w30 oil, is that okay?
The speed sensor is in the back ot the trans. It is black and has 3 wires going to a plug , at the top. I will add a pic. Yes the funnel and hose is used from the top for both methods. 10w30 is ok but it may have a small grind going in to 3rd. I use amsoil manual trans fluid. or hond fluid is the best
speed sensor pic
What is the reason to unplug the speed sensor to put oil in the transmission? Nice photo & thanks a lot
its easy to get to, less mess, just drop the hose in a poor. the other way you have to get under the car.
Currrently i am trying 2 repair a clutch that was said 2 be workin / Honda 20001 civic lx has 229 k and clutch had been prior replaced stated by owner/ there is a vibrational rattle sound that was emmulating from transfer case when clutch was not engaged. considering that the transmission is filled with fluid i found this odd.. i had noticed the sound after re-filling the transfer case. in most cars..... even manual transmission... but before i say what i was going 2... that after switching gears at any gear and even droping the clutch fast that when the accelerator is not pressed the catching pressure is fairly normal.... when within 2/4th gear that it can tend 2 slip like its pressure plated has compression or condensation inside the case...but the oil they used is fairly thick even considering that the pressure plates inside the clutch wear without changing the fluid so that the jog springs release.even considering what i told you that maybe petro condensation creating steam slip creating heat that glides the gears backwards causing slip ratios... maybe adding water or salt 2 addhear frictions or even creating a a tube that slips the conditions creating a condensor pressor grip.even if these conditions exist within the clutch plate after the Materials wear down and the plates wear.. causing a vaccume air bubble om top of a vaccume problem existing in this region... the fluid said and stated for thus vehicle... even iff its obviously way not 2 smooth but very like drinking a tube of toothpaste while you shove a vaccume up your ass...... that its very Torque Related..... Even after all this Dropping the gear always works and as well low rpm seems fine even under torque... Considering these models were designed 2 use examples of torque... the pressure plate is slipping when applying the torque and fluid filled steel case is vibrating when clutch is disengaged... even if the fluid is 2 thick....the transfer case has a torque ratio even if it was harmonic...... even when i compare that to when hydraulic pumps go bad and blame it on the dude stepping on the peddal or when the fluid has not been flushed.. or the condensation levels of materials in which create back pressure air bag b slipping heating and slipping . and scorring or scarring from minor ammounts of materials stripped from the pressure plates after based as opperable.. let alone filling the fluid in a manual transmission that may have some room for filling 2 make sure that even if you bleed the fluid "which i havent done" the clutch cable and engage unit is mounted to the top which is plug vaccuming my ass into driving my fist into the computer its suckking up a torsional fluid that is harmonicly separating the the mount on the fly wheel so much while driving so perfectly that the passenger side control arm bushing is steering the car far much more towards the right hand side direction that its noticable but where does that fucking sound from the fluid filled transfer case come from... wtf thats what i need 2 know.. Oh also seemed 2 find that the most obvious portion of that ..is when deciding 2 drain the thing that the most easiest accessable point mounted towards the open access wheel has nothing 2 do with changing the fluid. not only that the ports that are drain or fill even if i marked them with giant arrows dont seem right even if it had a fucking dip stick i wouldnt have figure that considering the oil pan does leak but the gasket that separates the them drips on the ground before it actually passes the transmission... wether it leaks inside or not ... even then i consider the backlash of not filling the canister when when even if i measure this ...the rattle the origional clutch replacement was underfilled for such reasons.. that the internal case transfer is off considering that the mechanical components and two different types of fluids arent separated.. that the seals bushings and bearings.. and fly wheel and moving parts require either fluid 2 operate.. are only separated by chemical composition... even if then the transmision fluid appears more oily color dirty or clean than normal and even under considerable measurement of the backpressure ...where the fuck that sound comes from when the clutch is engaged is like wtf....even if it was portably overdriven...and some how the not so sealed case created self containing backpressure... tthat it seems like some two way pressure valve effect is there.. that i still just fucking give up ...
Looking for a Used Civic in your area?
CarGurus has 88,108 nationwide Civic listings starting at $1,299.
Search Honda Civic Questions
Honda Civic Experts