Crank No Start/No Spark
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus. That I recently replaced
a cooler line while I was replacing it IT WAS
SPRINKLING ENGINE GOT WET. Two days later I
was driving and it died put the car in neutral and it
fired back up. Well a day later it did the same
thing. About 2 days later car dies again well this
time it started back up anf when I put it in drive
and it died again and never started back up.
Figured out it wasn't getting any spark so I
replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, and coil still
nothing. Fuses are good. Can anyone help me
Thinking if the spark plug wires are old, or could be the ignition control module.
Cooler line? trans? heater hose? radiator hose? Where is it located?
Rowefast my vehicle doesn't have an ignition control module. Guy I replaced the line that run from the transmission to the radiator. and my engine get wet and a couple days later all this started happening such as my car stalling and firing back up then it finally died and never came back on
Is it the 12 or 24 valve engine? Yes it does have an ignition control module (its integral to the pcm) and depending on where the water is it may be exposed to the elements. Also, are the motor mounts ok and in good condition? Lastly is or has the engine light on and if so do you know what the diagnostic code-'s are? Not to be trite but this is what I do for my day job and are the things that I ask myself about every car that I get the opportunity to work on.
Its a 16ohv. The mounts looks good and it had codes it was the o2's well once I took the battery out to get to the cam sensor the codes cleared. What I really want to do is rule out the PCM but I'm worried it might be that. I hope not
O2 codes? Do remember the numbers of the codes? When you replaced the crank sensor was there oil in its plug? I was thinking that the crank sensor may have oil in it's connector and not getting a crank signal which is common to your vehicle. lets get to basics. fuel, fire, air. What method are you using to check for fire? Will it run while spraying ether into the throttle body? Are there any restrictions in the air inlet? You can remove the air cleaner/intake tube and meter as an assembly to run the car while testing without damaging anything, I recommend it for working on these cars.
OK guy I'm kind of convinced now I'm going to go ahead and replace the PCM.
Replacing the pcm requires being able to program the theft system also. It's relatively rare that the pcm does what you are describing, usually there will be a lot of things leading up to it failing like injectors dropping out and other odd and uncommon things. When you replaced the cam sensor did you also replace the stator that is under it? Do you still have the old sensor and was it damaged on the underside where it sits on the stator?
No I didn't removed the stator didn't want to mess up the timing and the can sensor didn't look bad at all. Yes I still have the old one
Hey Guy check this out this is everything I done REPLACED: CRANK SENSOR COIL CAM SENSOR TEST: KEY FUSES IGNITION FUEL PRESSURE SPARK PLUG WIRES
I was looking on YouTube and someone had this problem the crank no spark and it was the Coolant temperature sensor. Which I found STRANGE
The Coolant Temperature Sensor can be the heart of all evil. This along with the 02 sensor tells the PCM how to adjust all the other sensors. They can go bad and you'd not even know it without testing it. But normally it has nothin to do with the spark. And yes, that pcm would require reprogramming to your vehicles specs. Can't just throw it in, there is a procedure to be followed. Now I am not suggesting anything here, just adding 2¢. Guy has a good handle on this...
Yes, anything that has a signal return to the pcm is capable of shutting down the pcm and not allowing it to startup thus no fuel or spark. There would also be another sign associated with this issue, in most cases when checking codes there would be a failure to communicate message and no check engine light prove out. Sensors that have a signal return are ones that show the pcm a variable voltage signal and have more than 3 wires usually like the tps, dpfe, ect, o2s, fuel tank pressure, maf, cam pos. If any of these are faulty sensors they could short the signal return ckt and shut it down, if it is a sensor they can be unplugged 1 after the other until it has communication and runs. That is if it has a bad pcm controlled sensor.
Ok Guy I'm back its the PCM no spark and the injectors are shut down also. So I went to my local Salvage Yard got a PCM out of the same year, make, and model. Should it be plug and play or would I need my local locksmith to program key to communicate with the PCM. Or would I need to tow to my local Ford Dealership
okay it's a 1990 Ford Taurus no spark it cranks over but won't start can anyone give me an input on what you think it might be I've tried so many things
I suggest “flagship one website”, if you are to purchase a pcm, if you purchase one with the keys it come flashed, programmed and with keys! No need to take it anywhere! The company flashes it to your VIN! Just my suggestion
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