2002 Impreza Outback Sport, 105,000 mi, is it worth fixing these issues, or...?

10

Asked by Jan 07, 2016 at 08:28 AM about the 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

1) The left outside mirror casing is broken off.  2) The dash light behind two gauges
(fuel gauge and temperature gauge) is out so can't be read at night.  3) Line to back
window washer doesn't work. 4) Inside mirror has strange dark/light change across
middle horizontally.  I'm starting to get irritated with all this, and am wondering if
fixing these is worth it or if I need new used car.  (Car runs fine.)

4 Answers

6,015

1. You can probably score a cheap mirror on ebay, not hard to replace. 2. I think you have to remove the center console and work your way up taking out the radio surround and then drivers side cluster bezel to get to removing the cluster to replace the lights. At that point you should just replace all the lights. Worth it? idk.. you could just get a small LED low lumen push light or carry a small flashlight to look at it at night. 3. Is it cold where you are? It might be frozen, thaw and then you need to put non- freeze washer fluid and twist the knob to run that until it comes out. You could google it for other issues? If your front washers come on then I would suspect frozen line. 4. This is somewhat common (my 03 is burned) and these are expensive (50-100 bucks on ebay) but if you set a trigger to alert you of new auto dimming mirrors or mirrors in general, you might get lucky. These are all pretty minor flaws IMO for having a good car. Have you done any engine maintenance? Like the timing belt kit with tensioner? At least pull the drivers timing cover and check the belt. BostonSubaru? says they last a long time.

3,530

I'll just amend walth's advice: 1. Ditto. 2. DASH, NOT console, he said. So leave the center console alone and just remove the dash bezel and instrument cluster. You'll then find small burned out bulbs in the rear cluster. Easy replacement. 3. Sure it's a frozen line? If the motor does NOT whirr, then dismantle the wiper motor drive and CAREFULLY free up the driven axle from its rust-encrusted drive housing with penetrant and vice-grips AFTER removing the inner plastic drive gear. (Note that if the drive gear is stripped of a tooth or two get a whole used assy on eBay). Lube up the axle and housing nicely and reassemble. I've rebuilt dozens of these from rust-frozen condition caused by salt-water getting down behind the rubber glass grommet over a few winters. If you screw it up just get another one. If the motor IS whirring AND the wi[er drive is tight on its drive axel but won't turn then the inner plastic gear IS stripped, so don't bother disassembling it...just get another full assy. Lastly, there can be a small one-way brass valve in the water line to the rear whose spring fails. Omitting it is the easiest recourse; just means there's a one second delay to squirting back there. 4. ADMs are worth the $40-60 IMO. Yes, inspect the t-belt, but it's probably ok if quiet.

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6,015

^^That's why I'm glad you're around Boston ;) I've not had to deal with rebuilding/messing with wiper motors but I have had a line freeze.

10

Thanks to you both for the helpful resonses. I've decided to get the things fixed (estimate around $1000.) Reason: lugging two ancient dogs and two preschoolers -- lot of messes - I'll get another car after the dogs die and the grandkids grow up. Also, there are no mechanical issues at this point and I maintain it on a regular schedule. Hopefully I can get a few more years out of it.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

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