Why is it everytime when i start my 89 f-150 4x4 5.0L does it idle high on choke like it should but after its warms up enough it chugs a little then it dies is it anything to do with the fpr sensor
If i can't run a vacuum or a fuel
pressure test how do i know if the
injectors are good or bad or if there
are any vacuum leaks if anyone has
the tools to test this and mite be
willing to run the test let me know
is there fuel present in the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum line now when the engine is run? Has your fuel pressure regulator, an engineering number from ford on it ? You might run the oasis on it tomorrow by calling your dealer and reading them your VIN and your engineering number prefix for the FPR. They are kinda difficult to get at. it would be worth it if you had some help there, does not hurt to ask.
Your ford is computer controlled. Run a self test diagnostic and count the check engine light flashes before you go out and do any thing else. You'll need a piece of wire to ground out the EEC plug on the driver side fender under the hood. Just look up, "EEC IV Self Test" on the internet. Then all you do is turn your key on and any codes stored should start to flash. In my opinion your problem is not going to be fuel but a sensor such as the Throttle Position Sensor, "But I could be wrong with out checking for codes."
After you find any possible fuel leak issue exists? internal, that makes it die out or smoke, or foul plugs eventually? check the possibility of fuel in the engine oil. Having fuel getting into the oil pan means change it, and the filter immediately. if you know this is happening, refrain from cranking and starting till you have the correction and the service. it can be a fire .or worse.
Since NHTSA saw fit to safeguard these trucks with a safety recall, you can see why it must be checked and eliminated as a possibility. That does not necessarily mean it cannot still be a leaking FPR. The gauges for these tests you may want to run are very inexpensive at harbor freight. The other tests for FPR require the gauge.
I had a guy that worked at gm for 30 plus years look at it and he said there's no fuel in oil or nothing internal once it gets warm it'll run fine but gotta stay on gas until then
Its just a very cold blooded truck but i only paid $350 for this truck aexcept th few weeks ago but everything works except
The thermostat guage on dash still can't figure that out either just put new thermostat in it but that didn't make it work either minor things but i like my things to run perfect
The $350 perfect running truck with out standing recalls and runability symptoms that vascillate like it must have california emissions. ! oh, and GM techs help you but do not posess diagnostic tools, oh, and they know the internal conditions, allright, sounds like some cars i have had. Did you name her yet ?
The answer to your original question is to take a page from robert bosch's books. Remove your injectors and while they are connected still to the rail, aim them into a pan and operate them to check the pattern, then shut them down, and watch them drip. Happy testing !
Test your coolant temp sender.
Get a thermometer from your momma and measure your coolant temp. Run your service codes. 2 digit codes can be googled or enginecodes.com. Anymore self reversing symptoms, you have to read how the system works and put it in the condition for testing, then run the pinpoint tests. The service manuals for old F-series were donated by dealers to public libraries. If there was a reference library where you live, you could go read up on it like I did as an apprentice. you can start believing some of the books again after 87. (H manual)
Y'kno, if you have to open the throttle till it warms up or it runs poorly and dies? does it still have that symptom? Then it would foul your Hegos and melt the catalyst. You might get a used ECT ACT and clean the EGR. since you dont have a DVOM.
Check for Codes....
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