Getting no spark out of the coil
Check for power on the positive side of coil, if you don't check ignition fuse, if you do then check for a trigger signal on the negative side of coil while cranking, if you have a trigger signal then the coil is bad, if no trigger signal then you either have a bad ignition module and or a distributor stator that you just replaced or a wiring problem.
Ok, too short and sweet. The ignition coil is directly controlled by the Ignition Module on this vehicle. The ignition module is the most common component to fail and cause a no-spark condition although, ignition coils have been known to fail too. The design of the Module uses a Schmidt Swtich and a Darlington Amplifier. There is no regulation of the dwell time through the module or into the coil so the Primary Ignition side of the ignition systems runs at 99% dwell - things get hot and burn themselves out over time. The best indicator is a car that dies and won't restart for 30 minutes to an hour. There is one other thing - rare but it happens - pull the SPOUT connector (the one you disconnect to set the timing) and see if it sparks. If it does spar with the SPOUT out and then won't spark with the SPOUT in - PCM.
I have the same problem but I have replaced the computer and still no fire from the coil unless the spout is unplugged and I have no power at the fuel pump either any ideas
Possible ignition switch might explane the fuel pump problem, but the spark without the spout connector in has always been a defective module, the module controls the spark advance on the spout circuit, I'm thinking you got a bum PCM.
Or the wrong PCM.
I need help!! I was at the gas station and started driving and the truck start acting like it's running out of gas, but I still had a half of tank so I pulled over and it will not start and now I'm not getting spark to my spark plugs? It's a 86 Ford F-150 5.0 EFI
Check for power and a trigger signal to the ignition coil, if no trigger signal replace the distributor pickup coil and the ignition module, if you have trigger signal and power replace the ignition coil.
Ok thanks that helps I still have a lot to learn about this truck!
So I haven't had anytime to check anything on it, I bought a new Ignition coil, spark plugs and wires I might get the pickup coil just not sure? What do you think
If it follows the typical Ford pattern, the ignition module will fail first followed by the distributor pickup coil and finally the ignition coil, but the ignition coil usually will last through 2 to 3 ignition modules before it needs replaced. That is the usual pattern, of course there are exceptions.
Ok I will replace what I bought and I will buy a new ignition module before I try to start it I was also going to buy a pickup coil also
My distributor rotor ain't spinning what could be the problem?
So I replace the timing chain and gears , ignition module, ignition coil, spark plugs and wires and it won't start?? Can somebody help?
Did you find out what was wrong I'm having same problem
Question @ tracy i realize this thread is very old, but i have an 88 bronco 2 qnd i have power at the spout connector, full 12 volts.. What rare situation causes this?
1992 Ford F-150 5.8L died while driving - replaced ignition coil and ignition module (no luck). there is still no spark. Talked to a mechanic - the signal from the distributor is not being transmitted to the ignition module. Instead of replacing the pickup, I decided to replace the whole distributor. Fingers crossed.
Good luck with that, usually the pickup coils are not replaced with a rebuilt distributor, Fords are one of the few that you can repalce the pickup without removing the distributor.
Replaced module, coil and rotor - Still no spark coming off the coil. The coil is new and the ohm readings are within range. Any help? The spark plugs and wires have been replaced too.
Did you replace the distributor pickup?
Yes - the distributor and pickup are new
Unplug the spout connector and see if you have spark. If you then get spark the ECM is toast, if you still don't have spark then is the distributor new or rebuilt? If rebuilt chances are high that the pickup is bad, if new then you need to ohm check all the ignition wiring too and from the module, if it all checks good then you will need a lab scope to check magnetic pluses from the pickup, if you have pulse at the ignition module but no trigger signal to the negative side of the coil then replace the defective module, if you have a trigger signal to the coil, check for proper voltage on the positive side of the coil, if you have voltage and a trigger signal repalce defective ignition coil. The system is relatively simple.
I have a filling the trucks CPU has a bad capacitor. I guess - do you think it would be worth it to re-solder the board or get a new one?
That old you may not have a choice, new is always preferable, but a lot of times that just won't happen, so your either stuck with an R&R service for rebuilding processors, a parts store that may already have or can get your exact number processor, or if your fortunate enough to have a good automotive electronics shop close by, they can do a board repair. It's been my experance that you run a fifty fifty chance getting a good rebuilt processor.
Yeah, not fun! I replaced some capacitors that were leaking - the local electronic store (Fry's) did not have an exact replacement. The capacitors matched in Farads but not voltage. The voltage rating where higher than that rated (original) values. I ended up purchasing a (manufactured) computer off Amazon - I receive it Friday. Not fun!
Did it fire up so you could reset the timing.
I have not been able to fire it up and I have not checked timing. Since there is no spark I an troubleshooting on the electrical side. Are you saying to adjust timing after the module, coil and rotor replacement? I marked where the pickup was and put in back as if I never removed the distributor?
You should still check the base timing after you get it running, it should be close enough to run ok if they went in exactly where they came out but there is always a chance t will be off especially with all you have done.
I put in a new computer - did not start. So a little history- The truck has been running and starting good. I was driving to drop off a load at the dump and on the way there the truck just died. I rolled to a safe place and the truck would just crank, crank crank. No start. Everything looks visually good. I've done the changes about with no luck. Any suggestions? May some ground wires be the problem? Thanks thus far.
Sensor grounds, computer grounds, power relays, are Ford failings when they get some years on them, if you still can't find the problem then you may need to find a shop that has one of the old Ford breakout boxes and someone that knows how to use it and do a pin by pin search, could be a break inside one of the harnesses. From here on out its gonna get ugly.
@tennis shoes do you have a way I can contact you? You seem bad ass with Ford's
I have an 86 f250 with the 302 5.0 efi. My truck dies if sitting idled for awhile and I have to hold the petal all the way to the floor to get it to start back up again. Sometimes it takes a few tries and about 10-15 minutes to get it idling and running right. Sometimes I feel like it's maybe a spark problem (ecu, ignition control module, ignition coil, pickup coil) and other times I feel like maybe it's a fuel issue (fuel injectors or maybe pump) it's a single tank pick up truck and I've replaced the inline high pressure pump on the frame rail and both the pod fuel filter and the can fuel filter
Right through car gurus here. If I’m still monitoring a question I have answered I’ll respond
Your fuses may be popping. For some reason the ignition fuses under the hood start going. It's the large fuse and a relay that are going bad on my truck. Not sure exactly why yet. I've been tracing wires and cleaning ground wires with no success. I've replaced engition coil on driver side fender, egnition swithch, coil and a bunch of fuses that keep popping... ????
I have a 1987 Ford F250 4.9L L6. I have had the same issue as Guru598 I replaced Ignition Switch, Ignition Lock, All Inside Fuses, Starter Solenoid, Starter, Plugs, Plug Cables, Dist Cap and Rod. So far Nothing has worked...
Oh yeah I forgot to mention, I also replaced Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump
The wiring on these rigs wasn't the best when even new, ground straps failing or even missing, internal harness crimp joints corroding, poor shielding, all lead to trouble down the road, ohm out the wiring, those that fail need repalced, this is a time consuming frustrating job, then add in Fords ignition componets common failures and you have the perfect can of worms that can frustrate even a seasoned mechanic. Oh almost forgot the main connector that runs through the firewall, corrosion nightmare there also. HTH
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