Getting no spark out of the coil
Check for power on the positive side of coil, if you don't check ignition fuse, if you do then check for a trigger signal on the negative side of coil while cranking, if you have a trigger signal then the coil is bad, if no trigger signal then you either have a bad ignition module and or a distributor stator that you just replaced or a wiring problem.
Ok, too short and sweet. The ignition coil is directly controlled by the Ignition Module on this vehicle. The ignition module is the most common component to fail and cause a no-spark condition although, ignition coils have been known to fail too. The design of the Module uses a Schmidt Swtich and a Darlington Amplifier. There is no regulation of the dwell time through the module or into the coil so the Primary Ignition side of the ignition systems runs at 99% dwell - things get hot and burn themselves out over time. The best indicator is a car that dies and won't restart for 30 minutes to an hour. There is one other thing - rare but it happens - pull the SPOUT connector (the one you disconnect to set the timing) and see if it sparks. If it does spar with the SPOUT out and then won't spark with the SPOUT in - PCM.
I have the same problem but I have replaced the computer and still no fire from the coil unless the spout is unplugged and I have no power at the fuel pump either any ideas
Possible ignition switch might explane the fuel pump problem, but the spark without the spout connector in has always been a defective module, the module controls the spark advance on the spout circuit, I'm thinking you got a bum PCM.
Or the wrong PCM.
I need help!! I was at the gas station and started driving and the truck start acting like it's running out of gas, but I still had a half of tank so I pulled over and it will not start and now I'm not getting spark to my spark plugs? It's a 86 Ford F-150 5.0 EFI
Check for power and a trigger signal to the ignition coil, if no trigger signal replace the distributor pickup coil and the ignition module, if you have trigger signal and power replace the ignition coil.
Ok thanks that helps I still have a lot to learn about this truck!
So I haven't had anytime to check anything on it, I bought a new Ignition coil, spark plugs and wires I might get the pickup coil just not sure? What do you think
If it follows the typical Ford pattern, the ignition module will fail first followed by the distributor pickup coil and finally the ignition coil, but the ignition coil usually will last through 2 to 3 ignition modules before it needs replaced. That is the usual pattern, of course there are exceptions.
Ok I will replace what I bought and I will buy a new ignition module before I try to start it I was also going to buy a pickup coil also
My distributor rotor ain't spinning what could be the problem?
So I replace the timing chain and gears , ignition module, ignition coil, spark plugs and wires and it won't start?? Can somebody help?
Did you find out what was wrong I'm having same problem
Question @ tracy i realize this thread is very old, but i have an 88 bronco 2 qnd i have power at the spout connector, full 12 volts.. What rare situation causes this?
1992 Ford F-150 5.8L died while driving - replaced ignition coil and ignition module (no luck). there is still no spark. Talked to a mechanic - the signal from the distributor is not being transmitted to the ignition module. Instead of replacing the pickup, I decided to replace the whole distributor. Fingers crossed.
Good luck with that, usually the pickup coils are not replaced with a rebuilt distributor, Fords are one of the few that you can repalce the pickup without removing the distributor.
Replaced module, coil and rotor - Still no spark coming off the coil. The coil is new and the ohm readings are within range. Any help? The spark plugs and wires have been replaced too.
Did you replace the distributor pickup?
Yes - the distributor and pickup are new
Unplug the spout connector and see if you have spark. If you then get spark the ECM is toast, if you still don't have spark then is the distributor new or rebuilt? If rebuilt chances are high that the pickup is bad, if new then you need to ohm check all the ignition wiring too and from the module, if it all checks good then you will need a lab scope to check magnetic pluses from the pickup, if you have pulse at the ignition module but no trigger signal to the negative side of the coil then replace the defective module, if you have a trigger signal to the coil, check for proper voltage on the positive side of the coil, if you have voltage and a trigger signal repalce defective ignition coil. The system is relatively simple.
I have a filling the trucks CPU has a bad capacitor. I guess - do you think it would be worth it to re-solder the board or get a new one?
That old you may not have a choice, new is always preferable, but a lot of times that just won't happen, so your either stuck with an R&R service for rebuilding processors, a parts store that may already have or can get your exact number processor, or if your fortunate enough to have a good automotive electronics shop close by, they can do a board repair. It's been my experance that you run a fifty fifty chance getting a good rebuilt processor.
Yeah, not fun! I replaced some capacitors that were leaking - the local electronic store (Fry's) did not have an exact replacement. The capacitors matched in Farads but not voltage. The voltage rating where higher than that rated (original) values. I ended up purchasing a (manufactured) computer off Amazon - I receive it Friday. Not fun!
Did it fire up so you could reset the timing.
I have not been able to fire it up and I have not checked timing. Since there is no spark I an troubleshooting on the electrical side. Are you saying to adjust timing after the module, coil and rotor replacement? I marked where the pickup was and put in back as if I never removed the distributor?
You should still check the base timing after you get it running, it should be close enough to run ok if they went in exactly where they came out but there is always a chance t will be off especially with all you have done.
I put in a new computer - did not start. So a little history- The truck has been running and starting good. I was driving to drop off a load at the dump and on the way there the truck just died. I rolled to a safe place and the truck would just crank, crank crank. No start. Everything looks visually good. I've done the changes about with no luck. Any suggestions? May some ground wires be the problem? Thanks thus far.
Sensor grounds, computer grounds, power relays, are Ford failings when they get some years on them, if you still can't find the problem then you may need to find a shop that has one of the old Ford breakout boxes and someone that knows how to use it and do a pin by pin search, could be a break inside one of the harnesses. From here on out its gonna get ugly.
@tennis shoes do you have a way I can contact you? You seem bad ass with Ford's
I have an 86 f250 with the 302 5.0 efi. My truck dies if sitting idled for awhile and I have to hold the petal all the way to the floor to get it to start back up again. Sometimes it takes a few tries and about 10-15 minutes to get it idling and running right. Sometimes I feel like it's maybe a spark problem (ecu, ignition control module, ignition coil, pickup coil) and other times I feel like maybe it's a fuel issue (fuel injectors or maybe pump) it's a single tank pick up truck and I've replaced the inline high pressure pump on the frame rail and both the pod fuel filter and the can fuel filter
Right through car gurus here. If I’m still monitoring a question I have answered I’ll respond
Your fuses may be popping. For some reason the ignition fuses under the hood start going. It's the large fuse and a relay that are going bad on my truck. Not sure exactly why yet. I've been tracing wires and cleaning ground wires with no success. I've replaced engition coil on driver side fender, egnition swithch, coil and a bunch of fuses that keep popping... ????
I have a 1987 Ford F250 4.9L L6. I have had the same issue as Guru598 I replaced Ignition Switch, Ignition Lock, All Inside Fuses, Starter Solenoid, Starter, Plugs, Plug Cables, Dist Cap and Rod. So far Nothing has worked...
Oh yeah I forgot to mention, I also replaced Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump
The wiring on these rigs wasn't the best when even new, ground straps failing or even missing, internal harness crimp joints corroding, poor shielding, all lead to trouble down the road, ohm out the wiring, those that fail need repalced, this is a time consuming frustrating job, then add in Fords ignition componets common failures and you have the perfect can of worms that can frustrate even a seasoned mechanic. Oh almost forgot the main connector that runs through the firewall, corrosion nightmare there also. HTH
You might want to check the coil connector I don’t have a f150 but I’m having this problem I replaced the whole ignition system and it’s one simple wire that is corroded.
This is the plug in that is missing the other half that goes into the bottom of intake. Anyone know what it is? It above the fuel injectors
I've seen this before, it goes nowhere, some say it was for the air charge sensor in the early stages of making up the harnesses, but went with the air flow meter system instead. I never tested that fact but there are a lot of Ford trucks out there with this plug just laying on the intake lower plenum.
This is the front one. These are 4 wires that are bundled together. 2 of them go to that front plug in and the other 2 wires go to..... nothing
An easy way to tell is check the computer codes, if it's missing a sensor it will generate a hard fault code.
My fuel gauge doesn't work. Does anyone know if the fuel gauge and coolant temp gauge may be on the same fuse? I'm not so sure the temp is working either
My truck was running rough at low speeds so I put unleaded plus in it thinking it might clear it up...... does anyone know if that was a bad idea for fuel injected 302 5.0? 86 model
Won’t hurt a thing, if you think it’s dirty injector put in a bottle of Techron and see if it improves with that tank of fuel.
@tennisshoes thanks! After doing some research I think all of my problems may be stemming from a bad catalytic converter! Sluggish, loss of power, spitting and sputtering, shutting down, and not starting while hot. I believe it's getting completely stopped up when it warms up and can't breath...... any thoughts on that?
A melted down catalyst will do it hot or cold, you can get a exhaust system back pressure tester from your local parts store simple to do just follow directions and you will have your answer in short order.
Pcm not sure what that is ? I have no spark Until i take out the spout then finally got the truck to start but ran really bad . I have a v8 5.0 1990 ford f150 any hrlp would be greatly appreciated
PCM is the main computer, if you only get spark with the spout unhooked then it is bad.
So understanding the PCM is bad on Mine 1995 300 engine, it ran excellent for a couple days then it like bang bang bonk bang stall I removed the spout and it ran great a couple more days then all over again, cant even get it to stay running. bang bang bonk bang rev hiss repeat all then.... stall. I discovered I have the wrong PCM, But, is it highly possible the wire harness is soaked out from all the power steering fluid I have been loosing over time?
i have a 1990 ford f150 5,0 have spark until i unplug the spout and truck just dies have replaced dis. cap rotor ignition module and pcm .ign coil . im thinking a wiring ptoblem. any ideas?
I'm working on a. uddys 94 lightning and we have no power to the coil... everything works if we introduce 12v to the positive side of the coil we can start and run the vehicle... we were told by the guy he bought the truck from that it had a supercharger on it and the stock ecu was tuned way rich and I have found this to be the case but I am stumped as to why we have to run 12v to the coil we have checked all wiring i know to check
Check the ignition switch, these have been known to start falling apart.
So I have a 95 Ford f150 5.0 with two fuel tanks... I have no spark, Ive replaced the ignition control module twice and the problem still persists... I replaced the ignition coil n it ran for a day... The next day it turned on but I had to play with the key in the ignition a little... It's not getting spark again... What should I replace next?
have you replaced the ignition relay under the steering wheel? Also, if you remove the ignition switch connection from the coil and place a screwdriver between both screws, what happens?
Check the ignition switch, these have been known to start falling apart. Have you checked the distributors hall effect switch?
Would the ignition Relay and the ignition switch cause it not to spark? When I place the screwdriver between both screws does the key have to be in the ON position?
So it looks like a lot of people have been having this same problem, no spark and the fuel pump won't prime! I have a 95 f150 5L, all the sudden died, changed distributor (brand new, not refurbished) changed the coil, changed the ignition module, what the hell is going on with this this, some kinda electrical ghost?! What else do I need to change ffs?!?
Well update on my 1990 f150 changed throttle sensor, sparkplug and wires i put over $500 into this pickup since I purchased it its finally running great ty to every one who tried to help me .
Hey guys I have a 2006 Ford Expedition Limited 5.4l. It’s running rough , slow to take off , backfires , and misfires. Ran the codes and got 2 Ignition Coil codes for Cyl 6 and 7. Changed 4 Coils for 5,6,7,8 no change. Installed 4 Plugs for 5,6,7,8 no change. Checked Power to Plugs , Coil , Coil Connector is Tester Light Lights. I have no Spark on Cyl 6 and 7. Any thoughts? Maybe PCM , Camshaft Position Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor? Both Sensors had Power to Connectors.
I have a 2011 ford pickup with a V6. It keeps blowing coilpacks(7). Any suggestions?
I have. 96 f150 with no spark. You name I have replaced it and still no spark! I’m losing my Mind someone help!
I have a 93 f150 302 in it. Fuel pumps are good. New coil pack all new plugs an wires. New distributor an new ignition module. New distributor sensor. Bought truck about a month ago from someone that done all this an we put on a new cooling temp sensor an fired up an ran amazing ever sence. Till yesterday an it completely died driving down the rd Then tried to start it back up an. It cranks but no fire, checked spark an nothing. Any idea?? Would it be the crank shaft sensor ??
I have a 92 Ford 150 replaced pcm, new distributor, new ignition module and coil. Still no spark with or without spout connector what's worng?
Have you checked voltage and pulse signals?
I have a 1996 F150 with a 4.9. I have no spark. I put my K-D Tools portable ignition system on it and it runs. I swapped a coil and an ignition control module from a running truck and I still have no spark. I'm not getting ignition signal to coil. I have power to coil and capacitor near coil. My fuel injection system works so I don't the problem is distributor pick up. What can I check next?
I replaced almost every thing I could of finally it was the cpu on the firewall switch it and it fired right up hope this helps now she runs great.
I have a 1993 Ford E350 with a 460 engine. It ran perfect, then just sputtered and died on me. Turns over but will not start. It was not getting fuel pressure on the rails so figured it was the in-tank fuel pump and replaced it. It still would not start so checked spark and found none, though I managed to get one random zap on my hand off of a spark plug lead, but no more than that. I replaced the ECM on the fender and still no spark. I also noticed the check engine light does not go on when you turn the ignition on nor when I attempt to turn the engine over. I then found two chewed wires that went to the #2 fuel injector that appeared to have touched/shorted each other possibly. If no spark, no fuel pump, and no check engine light, could the shorting of the injector smoked the PCM or a fuse someplace? I checked all the fuses and relays, all test good. Any assistance would be much appreciated here!
So - I chased and replaced a lot of parts to get my 92 Ford running. At first it was very rough and while changing out parts it stopped getting spark. I am convinced that the root of the issue was the main (PCM, ignition fuse and ignition relay). I originally purchased a remanufactured PCM - I installed it but no luck. I sent the remanufactured PCM board back and opened the original PCM up. I noticed there were (2) bad capacitors. With a solder gun I removed the capacitors with the (SAME) rated capacitors and cleaned the PCM with the recommended circuit board methods. Installed it back along with the new large fuse and square relay and BAM! This was after I pretty much changed out all the electrical components of the ignition. I did keep the original ignition module - the one I replaced it with from Auto Zone (I believe did not work)! GL
what is a spout connector and where is it? 1996 F 150 5.0
No spark at coil on 92 f150 it has new coil,distributor, and ignition module
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