Car will not start - All instrument lights work on dash, radio
2007 Chrysler Crossfire Roadster, 14K miles, Replaced SKREEM December 2013. Again in January 2015 (1 year 2 weeks) same issue, car would not start, but key fob and lights, radio all worked. Brought to dealer, said code SKREEM came up, replaced still no start. Replaced PCM and still no start. Car has been at dealership over 10weeks. Any ideas, car is coming up with no codes and can't seem to find out what is wrong with it. I asked them to check RCM. Could it be the computer system? Have extended warranty until end of this month. Any help greatly appreciated.
Yes this happened to me last summer when my car had 35k miles. I was 1 month over warranty and Chrysler would not work with me! Total price to fix was about $3,800. Was so disenchanted with Chrysler, but still love the car. Thought I was going to have to trash it. The dealership finally got it running! Quick get it in before warranty runs out! Total computer failure!!!!
Talked to my husband and he said it ended up being the "skim" module, but they replaced two others before they tried that....... Don't know if it needed all three or if that would have done it in the first place, but it cost a lot of money while they were trying to figure it out!
Can't believe this must be karma. My car is dead! When you charge it makes clicking noise and dash items work. I think one of the three modules is out that I just replaced last summer! Probably that skreem module. Having it towed to dealership as they say they warranty those parts for a year! Sigh.
Dealership said battery is dead so must replace that before running diagnostics. Talked to a man with a Crossfire and he said If you don't have your trunk closed properly the trunk light stays on and sometimes it stays on anyway. You can test it by putting your cellphone in the trunk and videoing! He said this will drain battery which corrupts the skim module! I was dumbfounded!
Try the skim module first. The car thinks it's in theft mode. Mine died, too. Took 5 mechanics and 4 tows to the right one. None of the dealership mechanics knew anything. This must have been an ongoing problem with Chrysler products. Google "skim module".
I have a 2005 crossfire with 45k miles. This morning the car would not start. Lights come on, headlights looks, good read on the battery. When I turn the ignition, nothing happens. I think I hear a click, but I am not sure if it is the solenoid. I towed it to the shop, and now the mechanic is telling me that they cannot access the onboard computer. THe OBD reader is not communicating with car.
I just saw this message thread while trying to diagnose a problem with my own Crossfire (a 2005 SRT-6 convertible). First of all -- these cars are quirky! They're really the guts of a Mercedes SLK class car, wrapped in Chryslers' exterior design. That means the majority of Chrysler dealerships (especially as these cars age) really dislike the car as an oddball they wish was never built. They're great cars -- but just caught in the middle of an odd relationship between two competing auto-makers. Your typical Chrysler dealership mechanic isn't really good at troubleshooting them and you'll pay a premium for Mercedes replacement parts, resold and re-branded as Chrysler spare parts (at additional markup). If you want to take one someplace for service, I *highly* recommend finding an INDEPENDENT Mercedes (or at least "German car repair specialist") shop. Mercedes dealers usually turn their noses up at Crossfires because they lack a Mercedes badge, and they too, which the partnership w/Chrysler never happened. I also HIGHLY recommend you go visit http://www.crossfireforum.org if you haven't already been there, and create a user account. Then spend a good bit of time reading the message threads on there. That place is the definitive collection of knowledge about these cars and even things like the 1,000+ page factory service manual can be downloaded there as a PDF file. One really common problem that prevents Crossfires from starting properly is a solder connection that goes bad on the relay control module (RCM). It's a circuit board in a plastic box next to the battery (inside another box - so the lid must be removed to see it). You can unhook the battery terminal so it isn't electrified, and then just disconnect the 4 or 5 plugs along the top edge of it and then pull it up and out. After the RCM is removed, you just carefully pry along the top edge with a butter knife or something similar to pop the plastic cover loose and slide the circuit board out of its shell. Then inspect all the solder joints for evidence of failure and re-solder all bad ones.
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