I have an 88 ford bronco 351w fuel injection, i have no spark from New ignition coil. There is power to positive and coming from negative posts.. I put test lite to coil while cranking, no power.
If you apply test light to + side with key in run position you need to get a light. That power comes from ign sw. also, when cranking the eng, with key turned start the tester should light. The tester must be attached to ground side of battery at its other end, when probing the battery pos post, it should light........If you have a good lighting tester connected right, it lights on any battery voltage source........when you establish battery voltage coming from the ignition switch, then you power your ignition......Now then, if you test the other side, while cranking and key turned to start, the tester should flash because the hall effect device switches on and off like points opening and closing. It is customary to replace the ignition module and the hall effect at the same time because one can cause the other to fail, or the unchanged part can fail right after. The truck drives out of the shop and the customer goes to leave, and it wont start. that soon. It fails because it exists in a caustic environment that chemically softens it and the fine wire within can break when it gets to that age. You should likely have both 14 and 18 codes in the ECA computer. This being an EEC-!V system. Using motorcraft is the lasting fix, and they run right. cant say that about other makes because they lack the redundant internal circuitry. one little boo boo and snap. You can get the good ones at the ford garage, and they can press the distributor shaft and gear, drive the pin, clean it up, reassemble. Some aftermarket offerings may have lifetime as a complete unit. Good luck and you're on your own if you choose that. A motorcraft cap rotor and wires can get the electrical readings back in spec and stop the ozone and firing back into the cap if that was happenning. The correct plugs and gap are listed on the CAFE regulation sticker for tune specs. of course, you guessed it, motorcraft are best made and designed correctly for your engine. everything fits right, and the cap has the proper vent. if yours had a rubber cover over the cap an snapped around the wires, it is best when not re-used. because of arcing...........Fuses are in the power distribution box as well as above the instrument lower hush panel. fuses get rattled by parking brake release, in case you have intermittent connectivity woes in that area. The fuse links are at the starter relay by the battery. Write back if you still have no power but a good tester, be sure your battery has not gone flat with cranking and the hood light in use.
Using a good part for the ignition switch can be important because of improvements made over the years that update it. You can get a motorcraft one for that too. These parts can be also purchased at warehouses that serve the dealers, if you have a business you can just fill out the sheet and sign up saving you $ and a few times towing .
Schematics for what wires go where to help restore where you lose power, in the event you havent found a failed part, but a lack of supply to it? The ford dealer donates its EVTM troubleshooter books to public libraries after they are out of use. You can buy them through Helm at dealer parts but dont know if that year is still available.
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