I'm having intermittent problems starting my Durango, get a clicking sound from glove compartment area

Asked by Sep 19, 2016 at 11:51 AM about the 1999 Dodge Durango 4 Dr SLT 4WD SUV

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

We have replaced the tps, the starter, idle air control valve,
battery and terminals! Last year we had our transmission
rebuilt!! I'm on my last nerve with this vehicle, if it weren't for the
fact that when it does run, it runs great, I would scrap the Damn
thing!! I'm at a loss for the problem could be. But it seems to
happen in the mornings, or after it hasn't run for a few hours. I
got in it this morning and started right up, was idling slightly
higher than usual. I ran up to wawa, literally one min up the
road. When I got back in, it wouldn't start. I turned the key and I
get this clicking noise. Almost like battery is dead. Seems like
when I disconnect the battery, one the clicking noise goes
away, and two it starts back up. I hear my fuel pump turn on
every time key is turned, so we ruled that out. Also, I
disconnected negative terminal while was running, and it stayed
running, so we ruled out the alternator as well. SOMEONE

6 Answers


You should NEVER disconnect a battery while vehicle is running, great way to get a voltage spike and fry computer modules. That said, disconnecting the battery may have led the Central Timer Module (CTM) to arm the VTSS (your anti-theft system). The CTM is like the Body Control Module on other makes. The CTM can arm/disarm the VTSS, it's supposed to do that when the battery is disconnected. You may need to take it in to the dealer so the VTSS can be re-enabled with the Chrysler DRB scan tool.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

Check a few things... 1st the Negative battery cable connection to the chassis of the vehicle. Also make sure that the engine grounding cable is fully intact at both terminals and throughout the length of the cable from the engine to the chassis. Lastly... go to autozone and ask them to check your battery state. Most stores have a portable unit they can walk out to the vehicle and test the battery. There can also be a broken bus bar inside your battery between the cells that would give you intermittent issues.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

^^KenF has a very good point about the anti-theft. Additionally the clicking sound in the glove box often is heard when there is a low oil pressure engine state....(Not running.)

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

The problem was happening before i disconnected the negative battery terminal. I thought It might be the alternator giving me the issue, I read that I could test theory by disconnecting the negative terminal while it was running. If the vehicle shut off, the alternator was bad, if not, the problem isn't the alternator. The vehicle stayed running.

Hello again, so I just wanted to let you know that I replaced my battery, and fingers crossed, for the past 4 days I have not a problem with it starting or staying running. The issue I am having now is that it is idling higher than usual. Sometimes I start it and it idles normal, other times it idles high, idling either around 1200 rpm, or as high as 1800-2000 rpm. If I punch the gas pedal and quickly let off, it returns to normal 500-700 rpm... any ideas on what it may be? The tps and idle air control valve are less than a month old.


if its got the 4.7l they are map controlled instead of maf controlled its most likely a vacuum leak letting extra air in and causing the high idle or could just be a faulty map sensor. i know you replaced the idle air control but was its bore properly cleaned? it could be sticking in the bore.

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