2013 Outback 2.5 L engine change
We have 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5 L with 67,000 miles and rod is knocking. Out of warranty and our engine problem is not due to the oil consumption issue that Subaru is covering for some people. We have rod knock but engine has not been using oil at all. Question is, we'd like to put a brand new engine in it that would be a fairly direct swap out, but want to get an engine that DOES NOT have the problems that this 2.5 L engine has.... How far back do we have to go - to what year... to get a boxer engine that will go 300K miles on it.... we are very disappointed with this problem. Just paid $17,000 for it and thought it would be good to us for another 200K miles. Any advice would be much appreciated.
I see that this a branched new thread. Good! Too much typical noise there.... FORGET about the ring/oil issue indeed. It's likely that either your motor was run with low oil or over-revved when cold. Regardless, the only remedy is to replace either the short block, the entire long block, or an entire (used) motor. I'd push SOA to replace the short block and "participate" in the cost as a goodwill/extended warranty situation. Otherwise figure $1.5-2k for a clean used motor + $500 to swap it in. 2013-14 should fit, but check carefully.
Thank you for this sound advice. I appreciate learning about the class action suit, etc. While it doesn't seem it would apply to us, what you say makes sense. I think our dealtership may see the sense in working with us to fix the engine and make that part of a deal to get us into an new Subaru Outback. My most important concern now is, do the later model Subaru's have this engine problem? Has it been corrected? JUST BECAUSE A CAR ISN'T LISTED ON THEIR LIST OF CARS COVERED IN THE RECALL DOESN'T MEAN IT DOESN'T HAVE THE PROBLEM. Subaru obviously narrowed their list of cars to be covered for monetary reasons... and then if they HAVE TO they will widen the list later to cover more. I just want to know if the larger engine, or the later 2.5's are any different from what I have now. DOES ANYONE KNOW THIS?? I don't want to trade in one rotten apple for another rotten apple. Nor do I want to get this problem "fixed" and pass it off on someone else to suffer with. Thank you to ALL for the great information.
I've been told that Subie has experimented with a half-dozen ring and cylinder-polishing schemes in order to address seepage of super-skinny 0w synth through them. The dust may have settled, but I'm afraid we won't know the longterm results of each iteration for awhile. In the meantime the few '13+ 2.5i I've bought for clients are running at stable oil volume with 5w30 Mobil 1.
The local dealer has almost NO say in SOA's willingness to "participate" in partial remuneration. They (in NJ) will issue a claim number to YOU (or the dealer once you've selected one), afterwhich you can shop ANY Subie store for the repair. SOA will research history of your vehicle to see if it's been "juicy" with expensive routine maintenance at a Subie store before getting generous on their part. Almost quid pro quo, eh? Unfortunately they're much more apt to "reward" only the previous owner based on this loyalty rather than any subsequent owner (especially an indie dealer/wrench like me). So you need to play a little poker unfortunately. After all, you've owned Subies for 30+ years, right? (hint)
What can I get for this 9 Star Outback, in "as is" condition? I would never sell this to anyone without disclosure. It has a rod knock, soft though it may be. This is a beautiful car and in all other aspects is perfect. firstname.lastname@example.org. Make me an offer.
We are looking at a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0i CVT today. Any advice on this one? Is this engine/Subaru a good one? Problems? Appreciate any advice.... thank you
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