my check engine is on and the brake and cruise control lights are blinking on my 2013 outback. what is causing this?

you will have to get the computer codes scanned. autozone will do this free.

Contacted Subaru and they said the lights indicated the gas cap was loose and should clear in a couple of days.

I agree with Mike just get the codes read at one of the local autoparts stores I know Monroe muffler will do this . Advanceauto will also Advance auot won't charge you , I am a regular customer at the local Monroe muffler shop so they didn't charg me . After the code is read do some research on it and see what can be done just don't klet it go to long

I have this issue on my 2013 outback. It consistently turns off at 1/4 tank and when you fill up it will turn off at 3/4 tank. I have had the error codes run when they are on, and it only shows the catalytic converter. I have had my emissions test run during the light off period and it passed.

my 2012 outback does this when any headlight, tail light, parking light goes out and needs bulb replacement.

Just told it is the catalytic converter and it needs to be replaced. Our car passed emissions! I think this is BS. In my opinion, we are dealing with a transmission issue.

Subaru charged me $70 to change the fuse when I brought it in for this. Now I feel stupid, and don't trust my dealer!

Just had the same problem on my 2010 outback. Opened and closed the gas cap while it was running and everything cleared.

auggie 3 weeks ago Best Answer Subaru charged me $70 to change the fuse when I brought it in for this. Now I feel stupid, and don't trust my dealer! So you don't trust the dealer? Well consider this most dealerships charge an hour diagnosis of electrical, and driveability concerns. Also consider that most dealerships are well over one hundred dollars, probably closer to the 120.00, 140.00 range. Also consider the tech didn't instantly know what the problem is, and would have had to scan the car, then look up an electrical wiring diagram (that I'm sure you couldn't read yourself), perform the repair, and then clear the DTC ( Diagnostic Trouble Code), then perform quality control to insure its a good repair. All that done and charged you less than the standard hours labor, and you feel robbed? I guess the tech doesn't deserve to pay his mortgage, or feed his family, and should just perform free repairs all day.

Warranties only cover defects, not routine maintenance.

I know this is way after the original post. I had the same light show on my 2011 Legacy 3.6. it turned out for my I needed new ignition coils (all 6...badly splitting) and plugs. I was told by the dealer the lightshoelw is meant to grab the drivers attention. In addition, no fault codes were displayed in my OBD2 reader.

Happened to me when I started my car after a week of a slight rumble from the engine. Took my legacy to the Subaru dealership and the cylinders where miss firing because of faulty spark plugs. Expensive fix because they had to drop the engine since it is a boxer engine.

I just had this issue on my 2013 Subaru OUtback and took it to dealer and said it was Catalytic converter. This dialog is giving me reason to pause and not rush into repair. Today, the lights are off and nothing different has been done

Same thing happened to my 2013 Outback this week and I was told the same thing at my dealership- Catalytic Converter would need to be replaced for $1200- I adjusted the gas cap- today the lights are off?

Happened to me today. Check engine, brake light, ABS , cruise control and something else all on and blinking at the same time. Had oil change/routine service a month ago and everything fine on 2015 Outback. Will tighten gas cap and stop by autozone tomorrow. Thanks

My 2014 has the cruise control, brake light and check engine light blinking. We tried checking the gas cap with the car on and off, I do need to change a bulb.. will see if that helps, but Auto Zone said it is misfiring. Someone on one of these forums said they needed a tune up. If the light doesn't work, I will get a tune up. It is about time anyway. Thanks for all your help!

I have had this issue since I bought my 2013, I was first told that it what the car does when the check engine light comes on. No. I was told it was a ground, no. I was told it was ecu, no. Was told it was factory over spray causing a short, no. I was told it was a wiring harness that was installed when the car was shipped to dealer, no. I was told it was the ecu again 2nd time, no. I was told it was a ground 2nd time, no. I'm sure you can read the frustration that I'm having with no fix or idea of whats going on. If ya'll know something I don't please share!

The engine and brake light came on during early summer this year on my 2013 Subaru Outback. I noticed inmediately that the cruise control did not work. I took it to the Dealer and after a couple days checking my car, they told me I had to change the catalytic converter and a sensor for something arounf $1500. A friend suggested a mechanic who said he would put a fuel injector cleaner to try get rid of the lights. He charged me around $90 for this and suggested I only put premium gas in the car. I have been putting only premium gas since and the lights were off for about 6 weeks. Yesterday, right after a friend helped me recharge the car’s AC, the engine and brake lights came on again. I will try adjusting the gas cap with the car on, as someone here suggested. I hope I don’t have to change the catalytic converter since it is expensive. My son has a Toyota 4runner with over 200,000 miles and it still has the original catalytic converter. My 2013 Outback has only 80 some thousand miles.

This has been happening off and on to my 2010 Outback for almost a year. I've had gas lines replaced, O2 sensor replaced, and it still is going on. It'll be fine for about 3 months after the most recent fix and then happen all over again. I'm so frustrated because the car runs fine but i obviously can't use cruise control. This is obviously a widespread problem so i hope Subaru comes out with an answer.

Our 2011 subaru started doing this a couple years ago. got codes read each time and came back o2 sensor or CV. Had them cleared each time and would be good for about a year. They came back on 2 weeks ago and still same code. Took it to subaru dealer to have them look at it. They said that the check engine, cruise and traction lights were either o2 sensor or CV. However, they claimed that the brake light was blinking due to something with the brake system and they could not pull those codes for me right then. IO call BS as they come and go together. So I made an appointment with another garage that specializes in imports for next week. Odd thing is that my wife called today and said all the lights cleared. The times are cooler today but don't see what that would have to do with it.

Had same happen to my 2013 outback. Steady Chk Engine, flashing brake and Cruise Control. OBD II readers are cheap (Some less than $50). Easy to use, most come with instructions. In my case, got the classic "P0420" catalytic code, but the cars users' manual even states that this -could- simply be a loose gas cap. If that is the case, remove/replace the cap, making sure it is tight and clicks into place. This might fix the problem, but not immediately clear the code. Fortunately, most (all?) OBD II code readers have an option/feature to clear the codes. Try that and if the lights come back on after a few miles of driving, you probably do have something wrong with the emissions system. IF not, then it was probably the loose gas cap.

Wow, this is really crazy: "They said that the check engine, cruise and traction lights were either o2 sensor or CV." My 2013 Outback has been great but only has about 40K miles. A few weeks ago I got all those lights plus the flashing BRAKE light for no apparent reason. Oh, also a warning light about high trans oil temp even though I had just started the car. I read and cleared these codes: P0700 and P2750 All warning lights stayed off until yesterday when they came on again, but after a while the traction light and high trans temp lights went off. So bad enough that a loose gas cap or something can turn on the check engine light, but why on earth would Subaru design this to turn on other random lights? Well, I'll see what happens and clear the codes again if the lights don't go off by themselves. Enough complaining, here's a question: should I take it to Subaru or to my regular favorite mechanic? For a car of my age and mileage, in California, is this likely to be under warranty? Thanks all!

BREAK flashing, Traction control not turning off, check engine light, and cruise control not turning off. Seems to be a repeating thing for Subaru. Just bought a 2012 Subaru Legacy last week on Thursday. Drove it for a day, next day, all those lights listed above turned on. Went to Advanced Auto, one of the guys ran a diagnostic on my car using the code reader, P0028 (Intake valve?), and another one P0890 (no idea). Another thing the guy told me which makes me not want to drive my vehicle, is that his 09 Subaru Legacy’s breaks locked up and he ended up hitting a telephone pole. So yeah. Not very helpful at all, looked up recalls. Called my dealer who sold me the vehicle on the following Monday, brought the car down. He had it for maybe 2 hours, told me he “cleaned the abs...” Now I’m not a mechanic, so I have no idea what that means. So I’m driving it today, mind you having brought it to him yesterday, and ALL the lights turn on. Wtf.

Yeah I am starting to hate my subaru........ this keeps happening to me too!!!!!! Super irritating...... might clean up my car and trade it in for a new brand!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tedious crap in my life....... get rid of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Same thing happening to me, on and off for months.. 2012 Outback.. Mechanic said I was using bad gas and cleared the code.. I used good gas and it happened again.. Every few months the lights start flashing. Then i noticed the car blowing cold air, turns out the antifreeze was empty.. My mechanic couldnt find a leak and feels that its probably head gasket or something causing the antifreeze to slowly burn off.. Don't even know if this is related to the lights flashing.. I brought it to Subaru and they said they found a very small leak in one of the radiator hoses and replaced it. Now i don't know who to believe, so I'm driving around with a gallon of antifreeze in my trunk just in case..

Check engine on steady, break and cruise blinking neither will engage. Had a new battery installed when I had an oil change. This all started after I filled up the tank the other day. Subaru dealer said it could be a vapor leak in the gas cap - adjusted it numerous time. Brought it to my local mechanic they ran the test and it showed the Cat. Converter - But he said it just needed a battery. Was fine for 2 days but today it started blinking again. Frustrating because I don’t dare go to my dealer, they cost a fortune for any service.

Had it to the second garage that specializes in foreign cars. After spending 100 dollars they told me Cat conv. No break issues so the dealership was lying as I already knew. Took it to the dealership I purchased from. They told me that it was a valve issue. They actually tore into the engine as far as they could without pulling it. I just had this engine rebuilt last year due to a head gasket failure (different dealership) now they are telling me that I need to tear the engine down again. Not happening. Im not putting any more money into this POS. First it was the transmision, then the headgasket now this. I will say this is very dissapointing as this is our 5th subaru. 2 of which we drove to well over 200,000 miles. One of them we sold at the 310,000 mark. All we ever did to any of those cars was timing belt & plugs once, cv joints and break pads. Now im questioning if I'll ever purchase another subaru. This one has been a total nightmare.

I had the same symptoms as most of you all have had. Same error code and all. It turned out to be corroded battery terminal. Clean them and reset. It might fix your problem

Same issue, Subaru replaced the abs module and it still does it periodically. I just take the hot wire off the battery to reset. Blinking again made an appointment, they all quit the night before. Go figure!

I wish I had good news for you. My husband and I both owned 2011 Outbacks. The one had constant electrical issues after about 2 months of buying it brand new. He had to replace headlights every other month. Subaru denied this was an issue for anyone else, yet my husband would speak to people in the service waiting room who had the same issue. It continued to have issue after issue. Lights on dash would flash, windows not going down, needed new head gasket (twice), etc. All before the car was 2 years old. Subaru covered all costs but continued to deny an underlying electrical issue. Got rid if it and other Subaru started with same warning lights, headlights constantly needing changed, etc. Got rid of that one as well and I'm sorry to say I will never purchase a Subaru again. What a shame...

Same symptoms on Outback 2011. Didn't bother to check for error codes. Just replaced corroded battery terminals over 6 weeks ago. So far so good.

2016 Subaru Outback same issue. After fueling same lights would come on and I would get codes checked/ cleared..fooled around with gas caps, switching out.. finally realized that I was fueling Subaru with engine running which triggers stupid lights also " over fueling" does the same thing..first click ur done fueling..first and last Subaru I will own.

My daughters Subaru has the same symptoms. Dealer says the values are probably bad and need to replace the lower half of the engine. I call BS, once I get it back from the dealer, I am going to replace the gas cap and look at the battery terminals and put better gas in it. Then get a code reader/reseter and teach my daughter to reset the code every time it happens. I will never buy another Subaru.

I have a 2010 Subaru Outback in which this issue was related to a faulty thermostat that had just been replaced. It was stuck in the open position.

I am currently having the same issue. My mechanic told me it was the catalytic converter code. I just don’t think this is the case. I was told yesterday I have a brake light out. I’m wondering if that could cause the brake light to flash. I’m calling BS on the catalytic converter. It does also seem to be affected by how much gas I have. Sometimes I feel loved and the lights go off. This is obviously not an omissions issue.

2014 Subaru Legacy, 55K miles. Never had a problem. Today drove it to work in -12 deg. weather, windchill like -30. Upon parking car suddenly check eng. light on, flashing cruise control light and BRAKE flashing. Seems to run fine. Read some advice about gascap maybe loose. I turned it and it is what I would call "tight". But turned it more until I heard and felt a "click". Will see what happens. Have a code reader, so plan to hook it up and cancel all the codes, too. Will post what happens. Sube service supposed to call me, but half hour gone by, no call. The service rep. on the ph. said they have been getting calls all day with people seeing warning lights coming on. RECORD cold in Detroit today.

Hooked up code reader and reset all the codes. Test drove it a few miles and faults did not recur thus far. Car seems to run fine. Will watch some days and post result.

the first time I had the flashing light issues as described , It was a bad rear wheel bearing that effected the abs sensor, which causes the cruise not to work. jack up the wheels and try to move the tire back and forth, up and down. It should be firm with no play.I replaced the bad bearing. My lights are back on after 10 months. Car has 181,000 mi.Still luv my subby.Thanks everyone for the various situations.

Cont. my latest issues with the flashing lights are that everything goes back to normal for sometimes weeks, i might turn the engine off for gas, when I try to restart it, I have to crank on the engine starter for about 12 sec. before it barely wants to start. could that be an intake valve ? plugged cat converter ? I don't have a clue. Ill try the battery terminals, gas cap and disconnecting the battery to reset !!

I’ve had the same issue with a 2013 Outback Premium for two years. I was pulling a trailer and the transmission oil light came on. Thought it was the trailer. Next long trip no trailer flashing brake light, anti-skid, engine, cruise control solid. 300 miles from home. Showed emissions. Bought gas cap, had mechanic emissions test it—nothing. Disconnected battery, reset codes, fine for a bit. Lights back in—to dealer this time, $110 later “no idea” reset codes said key us know. This started after they replaced my engine at 93k due to an oil consumption problem that started at 3k. Advance told me today they bet it is an ABS sensor for brakes but then they said that it could be by ISight system. All of you do it have the ISight so I’m going with ABS. I’ll get that checked. He said may need cleaned. I love my Sub people. It will cross the Eastern Conintentsl Divide (it dies have great snow tires) while my Honda Pilot sits at home and waits for warm weather. I hope someone finds the answer. This is crazy and it’s annoyibgvto not be able to use the cruise. Mine does start “hard” when the gas is below 1:4 and when it is extremely cold or hot. Let’s keep posting. Someone will find it.

I had the same issue. Took it to a Subaru specialist I was getting the P2096 code, which was post catalytic lean fuel trim on tlbank one. What happened to me was my intake came loose. He also told me the O2 sensor may be bad.

This happens to my 2012 outback every time the wind blows (has been happening since the first year I got the car). Cruise control also becomes disabled. I had the dealership reset it once so that I could continue to use cruise control until they could get my car in for service and it took the car another 4 months before it happened again....with a different error code. Makes me wonder if Subaru does this intentionally to force consumers to bring the vehicle in for costly, unneeded service. Anyone know of a class action lawsuit I could get in on?

Had this happen to me yesterday. All lights came on in dash. Replaced gas cap. Also replaced the two 7.5 amp fuses in fuse box. Battery replacement will cause the fuse to blow. It is important that you unhook your battery for 2 minutes replace the fuses and connect battery back. Those to things cleared all. $10 dollar fix

Same thing just happened to me the other day on my 2010 outback. I had filled up on Friday, then Saturday I got a solid check engine light, a solid traction control light, blinking parking break light, and blinking cruise light. I’m scheduled to get my air bag replaced Friday at the dealer, so I’m going to have them check it out, but from the sound of it, it doesn’t redeem like there’s a solution. The lights turned off yesterday, and came back on today.

Same thing happened to me last night with my 2013 Outback. Filled up with gas.....15 minutes later the engine light and flashing brake and flashing cruise control lights came on. Drove another 300 km with lights flashing (but with no ability to use cruise control). I've had this happen before with this car (several times, but not for the last couple of years). Always has happened after filling with gas. In the past it has gone away after a day or two, after turning car off and on a couple of times. We'll see how it goes this time. 250,000 kilometers so far. Hopefully I get to 251k.

do not "top off" the gas tank. when it clicks off...STOP

To add with all these answers, the Columbus, Ohio Subaru said that Subaru's had a brake switch problem that would cause this blinking lights. My 2013 Outback is sluggish and hesitates upon acceleration at any speed. We are taking it soon for service. Car parts store diagnostics will vary from store to store. Found that out through trial and error! One will show catalytic converter problems, one will show air flow problems and the list grows. Gas cap didn't fix it. Unhooking the battery and rehooking don't fix it for very long, This seems like a common problem, so why the run around? Especially from Subaru Dealerships. We'll see if Hatfield Subaru in Columbus, Ohio will solve at least my problem. I'll let this forum know

Blinking cruise, brake. Full on check engine and slippery road. Cleaned corroded battery terminal, 10$. No more lights.

Just as a followup to my previous post.... As with previous times that this has happened to my Subaru (at least 7 or 8 times in 6 years)..... my issue resolved itself after a couple of days and a couple of restarts. During this period, I drove the car 1200 km with the annoying blinking and no ability to use cruise control. No issue since the issue resolved itself. As per the post above, it does seem to happen after filling with gas sometimes. This issue doesn't worry me too much anymore as it always goes away. As per the other posts....Subaru has never provided a reasonable answer for what causes it.

I checked all of the lights last night. I had a tail light bulb out. I replaced it and unhooked the negative battery cable for a minute or so and rehooked it. So, after about 100 miles the blinking lights have not returned. In the daylight, it is kind of hard to see that the bulb is not burning, so check them closely. Not sure if this will continue to clear, but worth a try. This may not be all that causes the blinking lights, but it may save some money and all these other problems for some of us.

Lol, I have the same annoying issue getting progressively worse - especially keeping it from stalling after filling up ! IT'S THE O2- SENSOR. Since there is no worry of getting stranded or losing a wheel...MY husband, THE mechanic gave me a 10mm wrench & explained; if I want my cruise 2work....pop off A battery terminal for a couple minutes. It costs "US" $160 - I can't imagine the lay- person.

i got the same problem, checked the battery it was corrupted on the terminal, using the cleaner on it , after that it has been good so far for 2 days,will update later.

Ok I been dealing with same problem I cleaned terminals and light are off and stayed off so far

Check for a loose connection under the dashboard to the right of the steering wheel.

2013 Outback - Third time this happening in 18 months. First time "knock sensors" were bad, 2nd time "solenoid valves".... now I'm wondering if I'm out $1000 for no reason.... maybe headed to autozone first

Take the battery cables off the battery and touch them together for a few moments. DO NOT ADD MORE GAS AFTER IT SHUTS OFF THE FIRST TIME

Well, AutoZone said it was the oxygen sensor today..some the last 10,000 miles I had the knock sensors solenoid valves and oxygen sensors go bad

On a road trip with my granddaughter in my 2010 outback. All lights flashing as described. We planned on a trip to the Smoky Mountains, now I’m worried. It’s a holiday, so no dealerships are open.

Figured I’d add myself to the list of having this issue with my 2014 Outback, check engine light with brake and cruise control flashing. I’m so fed up with this car. Hoping I can clear the issue easily and then I’m going back to Toyota, never had so many issues with a car

I posted my problem here last summer and I am still having it. It has been a year or over. The engine light goes on and the brake and cruise control lights flash at the same time. I never know when the lights will turn on again or when will they go off. They have always gone off but it is happening more often now and I am tired. I had the emissions test done while the lights were off. I’ve tried just about everything suggested here. In total 4 mechanics including Subaru’s mechanic have seen the car (Outback 2013) and they all say that It needs a new catalytic converter. The car has almost ninety three thousand miles and as I mentioned in my first post my son has a Toyota 4Runner with over 200 thousand miles in it with the original catalytic converter. I am sure there are many of us with this problem in the US. Has Subaru had a recall that we may not know about? If Subaru has not had a recall about this problem, can we all get signatures or somehow get together, hire a lawyer that would charge Subaru for legal costs at the end, and sue them???? This is unfortunate. Other than the lights problem, I still love the Outback but I probably will never buy another one again :(

The flashing brake/cruise/esp on/chk eng light happened to me yesterday in 100 degree heat. Nothing changed, just the annoying light. Got home and used my scanner and found nothing, eng or tranny. Parked it in the garage. The next morning, the 10 second start up. Very strange. 2010 Sube. Outback Limited 170K.

After carefully proceeding home from my vacation, with the dash light cluster all on, and the code reader saying it was the solenoid, I scheduled an appointment with my dealer. It was the transmission control valve body assembly. $2000 later and all is well. Clearing the codes does NOT make the problem go away, just the annoying flashing lights. The problem is still there and the codes will return (if you don't get it fixed). It's important to get the codes read independently (if you have a code reader, great, otherwise go to Autozone or a similar place}. That will likely give you a starting point. The lights (and the codes) are there for a reason--your safety. It isn't a glitch, it isn't a recall. Mine produced 6 codes, but in reality it was two clusters of codes--one to tell me in general that there was a problem, the other to tell me more specifically. The codes will go away if you cycle through (start, drive, stop, repeat) several times, but THE PROBLEM WILL NOT. Also, catalytic converters do last a long time, but just because one has over 200,000 miles on it, it doesn't mean another one can't go bad sooner. I've seen a lot of the US with my Subaru and learned a ton. I still love this car, it's my home away from home.

unfortunately, you have been taken.... to the tune of 2k

stop topping off your gas tank. disconnect the battery and connect the red and black cables together

First, thanks for the advice, but I was not taken. Two different Subaru dealers in two different states told me the same thing, and it matched what the Autozone people told me. I don't top off my gas tank, I checked the fuel cap O2 sensor, disconnected the battery cables, and cleaned any corrosion. Since I had just spend a fair amount of time in the Rockies (with steep grades), it makes sense that the transmission would be the problem. I stand by my original statement that it's easy to clear the codes, but that doesn't get rid of the problem. Good maintenance and spending when necessary are what keeps a car running well. Thanks again.

Subaru Outback 2011, 166K miles, never had an issue. Went on vacation 200 miles away, got home, few days later car is is almost stalling when accelerating from a stop for the first 15 minutes until engine really hot. Went to work same stalling, left from work, same stalling and 10 minutes later I get the Check Engine light on, anti-skid light on, flashing brake, cruise and "On Oil Temp", drove it straight to the dealer and left it there today. They want $160 for code diagnostics. I'll update you on what they tell me. I'm worried, what it can be?

I disconnected the battery and held the red and black cables together. Then reconnected the red and black cables. That solved the brake light flashing, the flashing of the cruise control, and turned off the check engine light. It took 10 minutes and cost nothing. Also made sure the gas cap was clicked into place

Please go to an auto parts store and get the codes read. Getting the lights to go off is the easy part.

To get the flashing lights off, unhook the battery. Take wirepliers and disconnect the positive battery cable. Then the lights go off. Why were the on? It has to do with tightening the gas cap. Take the gas cap off and put it back on firmly.

I have this happening occasionally on my 2013 Outback. Using an OBD II Code reader, it always seems to come up with a P0420. If this code you are getting, my understanding is it is stating that the two O2 sensors values, one prior to the catalytic converter and one after, aren't giving the expected values. This could be for a number of reasons, one of which -could- be a clogged catalytic converter. The catalytic converters are typically expected to last the life of the car...and most cases of a bad cat. converter will cause reduced performance issues you should notice when the engine is under load. Other causes could be a bad sensor, bad wiring to the sensor, and I was told a bad engine temp sensor causing the fuel mix to be too rich. While you can go to a car parts place and they will read the codes for you for free... you can buy an OBD II code reader for less than $50, and I have seen some for under $20. These code readers install into a plug located just under the dash just above the break pedal and to the right. In most cases these readers allow you to clear the codes as well. My suggestion is to purchase a basic code reader that allows you to clear the codes, clear the codes, and then see if they return over the next few weeks. if not, then it perhaps it was a temporary anomaly. If they continue to return, then check with your mechanic.

All, I DID have the CAT and related changed free of charge at my dealership here in NC a year ago. Last night I filled up and drove for an hour. Stopped for an hour then went out to dinner with my husband. An hour later started the car and proceeded home. Lights started flashing as before CAT replacement but no adverse driving conditions in the vehicle. I ignored the lights. Will have the codes checked at my son in laws house and have him turn them off. I do have some corrosion on a battery terminal so I will take care of that. It was obviously not my CAT the first time. Don't get taken!

I had this problem and might have found the answer. I can only guess that this is the solution because the lights are gone and it makes some sense. There isn't enough radiator fluid in the engine. I only think this because a month or so it started happening, I checked and changed all the light bulbs in the car and did most of the stuff that didn't cost a fortune on this forum. Yesterday on way to work my radiator hose blew off. I stopped by gas station and refilled radiator went to work checked on it later in the day and it seemed full. Flash forward to taking my son home and all the idiot lights came on. I stopped tried to restart car, no go, I was thinking I blew the engine. Nope radiator hose blew off again.The back pressure of not enough fluids I think. I went to the house and proceeded to put the most radiator fluid I have ever put in a car in my life. Started car idiot light still on but the car started. Took for test drive and was expecting the car to explode but as I was driving the idiot lights suddenly stopped blinking. I know this isn't scientific at all but cause and effect. So check your fluids and maybe its the pressure or lack of fluid that is triggering something in the system.

Update to my issue. Went to the leader they said the diagnostic code point to valve body solenoid, they cleared the codes and said everything is fine but most likely body valve will need to be replaced, left the dealer and had to return back, car was stalling and all dashboard lights came back on. $1500 later the car is running good.

I know it's an old thread, but I had the same issue. My check engine came on (solid), traction control light (solid), brake light (flashing), and the cruise control (flashing). They went on while I was driving to work. It was still running good, for the short distance that it took to get to work. I'll check if all my light bulbs work; I'll tighten my gas cap, even though I had pumped gas on a couple of days. I'll check to see if the battery terminals are corroded. Hopefully the lights go off, if not then I'll take it to AutoZone.

I am having the same issue, Lulu003. Car was fine two nights ago, but all of the same warning lights came on yesterday morning. After 5-6 restarts, they still haven’t cleared. Checked gas cap but that didn’t change anything so I am off to Autozone to see what they can read. Thankful to find this thread-will post back with my findings asap.

What many of you don't realize is that just clearing the codes doesn't get rid of the problem. There are a number of ways to clear the codes, but those codes (and lights) are there for a reason. For example, if you are having transmission problems, as I was, the codes will alert you to get it checked, which I did. In fact, I had it checked at several different types of places. Meanwhile, I could cycle through the start-drive-stop-off-start... chain of events and get the lights off, but it did nothing to fix the problem. After a while, since the problem is still there, the lights will start flashing again. If it's your O2 sensor, great--that's a pretty easy fix. If it's your cat converter, fine. But if it's more serious, it's a ticking time bomb and you won't know about it unless you get the codes read and get it fixed. Clearing the codes is NOT a fix. FIXING it is a fix.

I purchased my 2013 Subaru Outback in July 2019 with 136000 miles on it from a major dealer in Kansas City. Three days later the Check Engine Light is solid, Break light and cruise were both flashing. After a back and forth with my mechanic, their mechanic, and assorted drama. The dealership replaced the catalytic converter. Two days later the lights returned, but with different code. The dealership and mechanic both tested, the engine was running lean, and the dealership admitted to not using a Subaru parts. They replaced the non Subaru Parts with the correct ones ( I believe, who knows at this point) Not even 24 hours later the lights are back on again. I have always been a Jeep Wrangler girl. And have owned my 1999 Jeep since...well 1999. But I did the research and thought it was time to purchase something that would be a better car for work and hauling stuff. ( Like my Great Pyrenees) So I researched what I wanted and decided the a Subaru Outback was it. I now regret purchasing a Subaru and will never return to that dealership again. I would love some insight as to what is apparently a frequent and unsolvable issue. I will say- the dealership checked NONE of the fluids in the vehicle. The oil was low, the windshield wiper fluid was low, and they said they did an oil change and then admitted later that they did not. So I will have my mechanic double check all the fluid levels. Including the radiator- coolant.

No answer, however, just experienced many issues all at once with my 2012 Subaru legacy; had it in the shop to get the timing belt and water pump replaced as well as a thermostat; took it out of the shop then a few days later the engine light came on solid, the cruise control light blinks and the red flashing brake light flashes as well as the yellow skid light on. Took it back in the shop; at first the lights didn't reset for them, however after overnight at the shop, indicators were reset and no problem until a week later then these indicators all came back on. What to do? This was after I paid over $100.00 to have all reset and shop couldn't find anything wrong (plus, had to rent a car as I needed one for work and school). Afraid I am going to be charged more for something that never occurred until a few days after work was done to this legacy. Should I try Auto-Zone? Then, what? I am so naive to automobiles and rely so much on transportation for work and school.

Same dash lights. Most of you don’t describe performance issues but a few do. 2012 Outback lurching when taking off and rumbling when accelerating at 65-70. Getting worse but ran ok once I popped the battery terminals for about 10 miles. Something is wrong so just code reset is not the answer. Spent 6 hours waiting for a tow in BFE. Keep a cell charger, water, and food in your car at all times. Other stuff if winter conditions. Saved my butt today.

I had the same issue, it was the transmission valve body.

Wanted to add my report to the long list. -- 2011 Subaru Outback, 103820 miles. Purchased used from a Hyundai dealership 2 weeks ago (1 previous owner). -- While driving 55 on the I-495 Beltway in Maryland, the Check Engine Light (solid), traction light (solid), brake (flashing), and cruise (flashing) lights came on. -- I pulled off the interstate and found this thread. Checked the gas cap by turning off the car, tightening the gas cap, and then restarting. Same flashing lights. -- I have a 105k appointment with a Subaru dealership this upcoming Saturday. From what I can tell from this thread, it shouldn't be a huge issue. I'll report back with the code and anything they tell me about it then. I'll ask specifically about the gas cap and the catalytic converter while there. Thanks for all of the advice!

Hello everyone! I forgot about my post on this thread, but I’m here to update. After taking my 2010 outback to the Subaru dealer, they ran a diagnostic ($130) on it, and found that the mass air flow sensor had failed. All in all it was $460 including the diagnostic. They also said my rear oxygen censor was running slower than optimal performance and if the problem comes back then it would need replaced too. This was back in March, so it’s been about 7 months and no new check engine light. However it’s now back to the dealer on Friday for more problems (coolant seepage, oil seepage, serpentine belt replacement, and hopefully not much else).

Have had the flashing lights on and off for months in my 2008 Outback. Read through this entire thread. Yesterday I was on empty, filled halfway with extra, tightened the cap super tight. Lights still flashing. Until I started up today and no flashing lights! I'll check back in a few days.

Hi all, just wanted to provide an update. I took it into a certified Subaru shop, and they read that the OBD was throwing a P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold, with no additional codes. They recommended a full replacement of the catalytic converter, which I'm a bit hesitant to do. I'm taking it to a different shop for another opinion, as I think it might be more likely that it's a bad O2 sensor, given the mileage of the vehicle.

I have been having this same issue on my 2010 Outback. Started with the check engine light flashing, then the brake and cruise control lights were flashing. Took it to our mechanic they told us the catalytic converter. Now the light for the door is always on and the door is definitely shut, but it caused my dome light to stay on over night so I had to turn that off. I have checked all the fuses and not really wanting to go through with a catalytic converter replacement. I had another Outback with over 250k miles on it and never had any of these issues.

Alright, here's another update. I've taken the Outback to 3 different shops, and the second and third shops have confirmed that it's definitely a catalytic converter issue, and not a sensor issue. I was quoted 3k for replacing both catalytic converters, although I might end up going for an aftermarket part which would be much cheaper (around 1k). ---------- As another diagnostic thing, I found that if you put the car into park and rev the engine up to 3k/min, you will hear a "clunk" sound as the engine slows down. The third mechanic said that this is likely indicative of rust on the catalytic converter, and the heat shields failing on the catalytic converter. ---------- Pretty angry at the dealership that sold me this vehicle claiming that the systems were working fine, but I guess it's also somewhat my own fault to not getting it tested thoroughly before purchase. There weren't any lights on when I bought it, so perhaps it would be hard to detect otherwise.

These same lights started flashing on my 2015 Outback a few months ago. Only 85,000 on it. I have taken it in twice and the dealership says it's a brake switch issue. They "fixed" it both times. It started not long after I had the rear breaks replaced. The last time I called the technician acted like it was no big deal because the car still runs like a charm. They started flashing again tonight. This is beyond annoying.

Well I tried most of the suggestions to remedy this to include replacing the gas cap, to no avail! Argh!

2012 Outback - 6MT had Recall WTV-81 (Electronic Parking Brake actuator) was replaced at 86,000 miles. One week later, car was back in dealership for low beam headlight replacement. Was advised that car needed front and rear brakes and that an oil leak had developed between engine & transmission requiring removal of transmission to diagnose. I took car back home which is several hours away. A few days later - Dash lights (solid CHECK ENGINE & TRACTION, flashing "BRAKE" & "CRUISE") came on. I though it may be related to the worn brakes and called dealership who advised it may be because of the oil leak. I found this site forum (thanks all), removed and cleaned battery cables which cleared the dash lights. Car runs well otherwise, but it did have electrical problems (high beams) while under warranty requiring replacement of front wiring harness, BIU, and several relays. Not sure decision to take if Error Code P0420 comes up.

SO: Clearly (after reading this entire page) THERE IS NO SINGLE ANSWER TO FLASHING DASH PANEL LIGHTS. 1. It could be the catalytic converter (EXPENSIVE). 2. It could be the O2 sensors. 3. It could be the gas cap. 4. It could be the type of gas used. 5. It could be from overfilling the tank. 6. It could be from low radiator fluid. 7. It could be from a transmission issue. ALSO... OBD II Code Readers are unreliable—clearly people have had codes read at numerous different locations with numerous devices and gotten numerous results. ALSO... Clearly dealers are unreliable—when people have had this issue, dealers have given them as many different possible causes as there are stars in the sky. Your mileage will vary. ALSO... 1. You may be able to clear the flashing lights and your Subaru will run fine for another 100K miles. 2. You may clear the flashing lights and your Subaru might explode on the highway leaving you stranded. IT'S A ROLL OF THE DICE. ----- I don't mean to sound sarcastic—this is the reality of this issue! There are COUNTLESS different scenarios, different causes, different solutions. At best this page suggests several things to try—with zero assurance anything will be resolved for the long term (but it might?). Very frustrating!

2012 Outback here, 143,000 miles. Worst part is, I didn't even get a few years out of it like most of you. I just bought it and here I am about a month later with the same issue. Mind you I was gone for two weeks for Thanksgiving so really only about 2 weeks worth of mild use. I think Scott summed it up properly. I do have an observation. I'm pretty sure code readers do not give different answers. I think the codes being thrown by the computer change each time and that's why different places read different codes. My code was P0700 (Transmission module) which was just replaced according to the guy who sold it to me. Also a P0456 (Very small leak in the evap system) which would make sense with the gas cap thing. I have two additional issues. The traction control light is on and won't go off by pressing the button or clearing the codes and the brake light did not go off when I cleared the codes. That control doesn't seem to do anything either. Really impressed with this vehicle after 2 weeks. Biggest regret is that, as a principled person, I will have to tell the next owner about the problem. Gonna make it harder to sell.

I had this problem. Took positive connection off battery and cleaned terminal which was badly corroded. Lights gone!

I have a 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5i (purchased new at a Subaru Dealer in San Jose, CA) currently it has about 205k miles on it. Had this problem: Check Engine and Anti-Skid lights on (solid); Brake and Cruise lights (flashing). Had three places do the OBD II scanning (Napa Auto Parts and two auto repair shops), they all gave me the P0420 Catalytic Converter code. Read up this thread and others, also watch a few Youtube clips. Decided to do the simpler and cheaper things first. (because I am not really good at complicate car things, other than oil change, light bulb change, checking different fluid level) By the way, one shop quote me the price of replacing the catalytic converter of $1,600. I believe the Subaru dealers, who usually have higher labor rate, will charge much more. So, here is what I did: 1. Make sure all the fluid levels are appropriate. (My radiator anti-freezer was below the low mark at the expansion tank, so I have to add some.) 2. Replace a bad front low-beam light bulb and two in the back (one for parking, one for braking). 3. Replace a gas cap ($10 and change after tax at O'Reilly Auto Parts). Always tighten the cap until you hear the click! (I had tried to open and re-tighten the older cap, then did three complete driving cycles - "Start Engine - Drive a few miles - Shut Down", but it did not work. I did later, after installation of the new cap, find the old one's plastic gasket is a little worn out.) 4. I disconnect the battery cables (both) from the battery. Used wire brush to clean the battery terminals, and (as much as I can) the connector part of the cables. Re-connect the cables back to the battery. (One Youtuber warned about 7.5 Amp fuse may get blown while installing battery, so as a precaution, I did remove all the 7.5 Amp fuse while connecting the battery, then install back.) After these steps, started the car, none of the lights as described above came up. Test drove (stop the car, turn of engine three times) a few miles - local streets and highway. Tested the cruise control, anti-skid function. Everything seems fine. I am keeping my fingers crossed, hoping these simple/cheaper steps do their magic. I will report back if the lights come back on. Good luck!

2010 Legacy- Brake light flashing, Anti Skid light on, Cruise flashing and not working and Check Engine light on. Positive Battery terminal corroded. removed Battery cable Cleaned cable end and terminal, started car, all lights off!!

A few more observations: 1. The lights go out when you "clean the battery terminals" or remove the battery cable because you are clearing the codes. Only time will tell if that is an actual fix. 2. When this happened to my 2012 Outback, it showed transmission module. I cleared the code using my scan tool and it drove normally, no warning lights, for one month. Then it happened again. This time the code was evaporative emission system. I cleared that code and everything was normal for two weeks. This time the code came up as catalytic converter. I don't believe ANY of these systems are responsible for the problem. Also, every time this happened, it didn't have anything to do with filling up. It happened WHILE driving and in between fill-ups. 3. Clearly there is a problem but finding what it is is the real problem. Normally, if you get a catalytic converter code and you reset it, you should get a catalytic code again if you have a bad catalytic converter. In this case it is all over the place. I'm even thinking perhaps an ECU (computer) problem. 4. I contacted Subaru of America and they gave a typical BS response of "If you are having trouble with your Subaru, we recommend bringing it to your local Subaru dealer to have it fixed." Screw you Subaru! 5. I won't believe any of these "solutions" until more than one person comes on here after more than just one or two months to say the fix stuck. Just my humble opinion. First and last Subaru for me I guess.

Thanks for all the info, same lights came on, took the advise to open and shut gas cap, my cap was missing (don’t ask me why?!). Gonna go get a new cap!

@ozone0 - Apologies to all for the late response, and in direct response to yours. I had posted back in October and November about these codes. As I mentioned, I went to three shops, and the conclusion of all three shops (without telling them about past shops) was independently of a bad catalytic converter. I purchased an aftermarket cat converter for 750 and had it replaced. Since then (2 months), I have not had any issues with any check engine lights. I have also verified that there is no more "clunking" sound when revving the engine in park. Hope that helps at least a little bit!

Just had the exact same issue and it was the catalytic converter $ 1,500.00 down the drain. Not using the dealership saved me $400. No such luck than the gas cap only. :-(

@Seattlechunny Glad it worked for you. You are the lucky one since you actually KNOW what caused your light. I'm still waiting for mine to come on again. When it does, I'll post up the code and any fixes I do.

Please check your battery!!!!!! This happened to me —same steady check engine light on, BRAKE flashing, cruise control flashing. I cleaned off the corrosion off my battery and BAM, all errors were gone! I will need to probably get a new battery soon but this was clearly the issue. I was panicking hard today and this message board helped me so much. Why are cars so scary? Lol. Thanks everyone.

2011 Outback. Headlights constantly blow - recalled - take car in each time one blows and they will replace it. Recalled Transmission - Thank God they extended the warranty and it was taken care of. (although they had the car 3 months for that) I am getting flashing brake and cruise control light, solid traction and check engine light. First time this happened I stopped for a car turning left and the car stalled completely. All lights came on. 2 codes showed. 1 they fixed, no clue what the other one was. It was like a ghost code nobody had ever heard of. 2nd time (last March) this happened was costing through a green light roughly 25 mph and the car stalled. Luckily I was able to coast into the turning lane. All lights came on. Took it to Firestone b/c it was the only place open. It registered 33 codes. They were clueless. The next morning it showed no codes. Still clueless. They changed spark plugs (had never been changed) Fuel flush and can't remember what else. No problems until this past December. Valentine's Day my gas light was. After I pumped gas the car wouldn't start for about 5 minutes. Now this week the lights are back. The tech said check the gas cap. So I drove all weekend with the lights flashing and the car drives fine. Took it to the auto mechanics class this morning and it registered no codes and they cleared everything and the lights are off I am not seeing but 1 other person have a stalling issue. Anybody else having the car stall out. I was going to trade my car until finding this thread. Nobody has ever mentioned the Cat Converter problem to me. It was always my dream to have a Subaru Outback but no more!!!! I can deal with these occasional lights until I save up more money. Don't really want a car payment right now. Thanks for all the info in the thread! It has really helped me. :-)

Tightening the gas cap fixed the issue for me. background - 10 year old 2010 outback, 75K miles. Spent 6K last year to fix head gasket / leaking radiator problem. Faced similar engine light situation with a 15yr old but low-milage Sentra few years ago. replaced O2 sensor, replaced the whole ecu, the light kept coming back. Car run fine! Finally donated the car out of frustration, since they won't smog without the light fixed.

I'm checking back in. My Subaru Outback had the flashing lights. I paid a mechanic $250 to run some tests. He talked CC, but I found this thread and tried the gas cap tightening. It worked! Several months later I have this down to a science. If your lights are flashing, you'll have to let the gas tank empty. Then when you fill up, be sure to stop before the nozzle clicks. I have a 15 gallon tank, so I only fill to 14 gallons. Then, put the cap on nice and tight. This actually works. When my son overfilled recently, the lights went haywire. I had to drive like that until the tank could empty and the lights reset. Then I filled to just 14 gallons, tightened the cap, and haven't had an issue since.

Well I'm glad that worked for you, but I just had a faulty gas pump that allowed me to overflow the tank all over the side of the car. No light came on, but it seems to come on every 2 to 5 weeks. I just keep turning it off and driving on. If I ever get around to fixing things, I'll try some of these ideas first, but so far, every code is different. I don't like driving with the lights on because the cruise control doesn't work when they are on, so I always get out my scan tool and turn it off right away.

I had just both a 2013 outback on 01/18/2020, just last week on my way home from work all my warning light came on flashing, i fricked out and immediately parked by the roadside and checked under the hood and around the car all seems to be fine, dash board say check owners manual, i did and that didn't help rather got me confused. I checked the brakes they where operational, so i drove home, over the weekend i did oil change and three day later all light went away.

My wife’s 2013 Subaru Outback has had this same problem for about 1 year. I’ve tried replacing the gas cap, brake stop switch and cleaning the battery terminals. I finally just bought a Foxwell OBOII EOBD code reader off amazon for $50. Attached it and cleared the codes in a matter of 3-4 minutes. The only code it showed was a 0700 transmission code that I’ve known about. I’m done fiddling with this and just plan on clearing them again if it happens.

2010 Outback 2.5, original owner, 130k on the odometer. Had the same intermittent problem as described by everyone here, replaced the thermostat and it has finally stopped all the blinking lights (check engine, cruise control, AT auto temp, etc). The thermostat is about a $30.00 part...the cost of a couple of gallons of Subaru coolant cost more than the actual new thermostat. Took about an hour and a half to drain the radiator, remove the thermostat housing, lower radiator hose, and swap out the old thermostat with the new one, put everything back together and fill with new coolant. Previously tried replacing the camshaft position sensor, and cleaning the mass airflow sensor...neither worked. Anyway, hope this helps as the Subaru dealership was certainly of no help whatsoever. I've surfed and sleuthed (off and on) around the internet for months searching Subaru forums for the magic bullet, and I think the thermostat may be the trick you're all looking for...unless the lights eventually come back on.

@dahogs Again, I would have to ask. How long ago did you do the repair? If it's not off for like 6 months, I wouldn't call it solved. No offense. It's just that we now have the following solutions: Replace the thermostat Replace the headlight bulb Replace the catalytic converter Replace the transmission module Clean the battery terminals Re-seat the gas cap And my personal choice, just turn off the CEL until you get a code that repeats often enough to tell you what the real problem may be. So far, in just 4 months or so I have had to turn off the light 5 times and the code that comes back is always different. I believe the real problem is probably something like the ECU or something with the power to the ECU, like a bad ground. But I hope your solution sticks for you. This has been frustrating since I only bought this car to keep it temporarily while I get my other two cars up and running and so I just needed something reliable for a few months. Don't think I'll ever buy another Subaru.

Agree 100%. That’s exactly why I said it seems to have fixed the problem “until the lights come back on.” Prior to this, I‘ve changed out the camshaft position sensor, cleaned the mass airflow sensor, cleaned the battery terminals, checked fuses, replaced the old gas cap with a new one...none of those things worked. This is the ONLY thing that has worked at all thus far. This is my son’s car, but was mine before, so I’m intimately familiar with the car. He just drove the car several hundred miles to and from his university, and no warning lights. I’m cautiously optimistic, but we’ll see. I’ll post here with an update and if anything changes. Fingers crossed.

I had a 2008 subaru outback cruise blink ck engine light on something else blinking was o2 sensors dealer and garage wanted 1200 to repair I bought sensors and my son had no trouble putting them on. Cost 125 dollars fixed problem.

2012 Outback. I’ve had this problem for awhile. Got the catalytic converter replaced. Two days after picked up the car from the dealership, lights go off again! I so frustrated! I had my local mechanic fix it once and it worked for about 6 months.

I had a 2011 legacy that started with this problem. Autozone said it could be gas cap or faulty lights. It would occasionally come on and go off. No issues with the car itself. Fast forward a few months, transmission started making a funny noise. Pulling weird and shifting hard (automatic with cvt transmission) if I had been going over 50 and slowed to a stop it would die. Usually would always start up but wasn’t a fun problem to have until One night about 9 months after onset of problem, i stopped at a redlight and it was toast. Wouldn’t go in gear at all. Luckily I had a warranty and called the dealer. The transmission was completely shot. Had to have it towed 50 miles to the closest Subaru dealer and luckily we found that there had been a recall on the cvt transmissions and covered the entire cost of the new transmission (6500). So now I totaled that car and bought a newer 2013 outback. Had for a couple weeks and the same lights started flashed. Lord help me. I don’t have the same warranty on this one. Fingers crossed I can fix the issue before I have to pay out of pocket for a transmission.

I have been dealing with this for over a year! Dealership says - water pump - replaced. On again 7 miles from dealer. then they say - alternator bad - replace. then blown head gasket - replaced. $3k into dealer at this time. Then the exhaust something came out of the back of the block and blew the 4th cylinder. Took it to another mechanic - done with the dealership. $5k later it works for a week and then - boom won't start for the first few tries and lights are flashing AGAIN! I hate Subaru. I am $8k in on a car that I owe $4k on and can only sell for $6k. Subaru of America said not in warranty won't help & don't have any record of these problems. Guess they didn't google this site.

Thank you GuruNN62V. I now make sure that my gas cap is nice and tight and also do not fully fill my gas tank. I stop at 14 gallons, and so far my engine and brake lights have not turned on again. Keeping my fingers crossed.... We’ll see..

OK, here is my story. Same thing happened to me around 4 days ago. I got up the next morning and my car battery was dead. I came online and found this site when I typed in: "subaru outback dashboard lights flickering" I usually find answers and solutions to my problems when using google/youtube but in this case I left more discouraged and confused. Very first thing I did was check my after market gas cap. That didn't solve it for me. Later that day, I saw that my battery posts were very badly corroded so I cleaned them up and also found a few ground wired attached to the car body and also roughed them up shiny since that was another theory. I charged my battery for around 4 hours and decided to see if the car would start. It did! I drove it around the block 2-3 times and the brake and the ABS lights came on and off while driving. I parked it for the night and got up the next day...battery completely dead again. GRRRR. I charged the car again and this time left it on the charger over night. This morning I had a good solid charge and decided to try it again. I had called a few shops and they all had different theories and wanted me to bring it in. After reading the horror stories on here about paying up to $4000.00 to get it fixed and then having start up again, I was still at a loss what to do. I decided to have my alternator checked and a local auto parts store does that for free. On the way there, my ABS, Battery and Brakes warning lights flickered and went off whenever I stopped. My alternator and voltage regulator were both dead so I bought a new Alternator. I found an awesome youtube video on how to remove and replace the alternator and did it quite fast for a guy with no experience. After starting the car up for the 2 mile trip to return the alternator core there were no more warning lights. I drove around and did a few errands and no lights ever came back on. I will let you know if they come back on. I wonder if the Subaru computer is very sensitive and gets set off under the right circumstances. I am hoping that my problem is over. Hope this story helps someone. Car troubles are a real downer. By the way, My Subaru outback legacy wagon is a 2000.

Guru7M8N7 Sounds like your problem was a little different than ours. The lights flickering when you come to a stop is definitely a symptom of alternator/battery. In our case the battery light is not really involved. I think you solved your problem, but thanks for posting and let us know if it returns. I replaced my O2 sensors because the reading on my scan tool looked really weird. However, when I finished, it still looked really weird, so I doubt I fixed it, although the lights have not come back on yet. Been about 2 months with light driving.

having this issue with my 2013 Outback, check engine light with brake and cruise control flashing. This happened after I jump started my dead battery (interior light was on all night). Also the gas tank was close to empty. When I tightened the gas valve, that did not help. I went and filled the gas tank and then the same warnings (check engine, cruise, brake light) all disappeared. Hoping that it would not come back.

I changed my bad alternator, cleaned the battery posts, charged the battery and roughed up all the ground wires going to the car body that I could see and so far, car working great with no more flashing dashboard warning lights.

Thank you everyone. Very helpful. Had the same issue with my subaru outback 2013. Just went to the car and opened and closed the gas cap, then turned the car on and the lights were gone. BTW the issue occurred after I put gas.

Well, mine's been going on for 4 years now. Bellevue Subaru - couldn't figure it out. an independent subaru shop did a lot of work, no charge because they couldn't solve it (excellent place, and we've had them work on our cars before, i.e. replace old subaru engine at 175k miles). I believe it is a short, as water came in thru the moon roof and that's when it started. short duration to start, not about every 800 miles it goes off, so I just check the code -- always the same, and reset it and good to go for another 800-1000 miles. I do the old car trick of a wood broom handle to the engine and listen, and I don't hear any valve issues as the code says. so, my humble option having worked on cars in the 70s and 80's before they became too computerized, is it s computer short. So I just live with it. been doing it for the last 25k miles. my wife doesn't like it, but I'm a guy and it's just a car.

We have been having the same issue with the lights flashing on our 2013 OBack. Code read the P0333 for Knock Sensor, had that replace last week and light came on again today, took to the dealer and the Knock Sensor code still showing up. Taking it back to tomorrow and will see what they say.

Check your battery terminals for corrosion! I have a 2011 Outback with 148k miles. The same thing happened to me the other day - steady check engine light on, anti-skid control light on, BRAKE flashing, cruise control flashing. As Guru248BQ and GuruP7GQT posted above, I cleaned the corrosion off the battery terminals and all lights were gone! Good luck and hope this simple fix works for others.

All the warning lights are flashing. Dealer advised hot oil flush and we changed the plugs and coils. Nope. $1800 and the lights came on in 1/2 hr. I guess none knows but will try gas cap, check lights and clean the battery terminals. I think this is strictly an electronic problem vs mechanical.

I changed my alternator and problem solved. Most auto stores can check your alternator.

@Guru3ML51 Are you referring to Michael's Subaru in Bellevue? My daughter dropped her car off there today with this issue and after reading this thread I am worried they will try to charge her for unneeded repairs. The car was originally my other daughter's car (2013 Outback) and it has had a leak the dealer in Marysville couldn't find around the sunglass holder, near the top of the windshield. With the recent rain this makes me wonder about a potential short, as you suggest. What shop do you trust with Subaru's in the area? It would be great to take our car somewhere that has experience with this issue and I'm sure the dealer will never admit it.

I like Guru3ML51's answer from 2 month's back. You may just have to learn to live with it. I've been living with this issue (on and off) on my 2013 Outback for the past 4 years also.... and the past 100,000 km. It happens every 2000 to 3000 kms or so. The lights start flashing for a couple of days.... and then they miraculously disappear for the next few thousand km's until they re-appear again. I've had my vehicle into Subaru in the past.... they haven't been helpful. Throughout this whole ordeal, my vehicle has continued to perform well. Others are handling the situation different (as there may be some unique issues to each person's situation), but in my case, until something actually breaks....I will continue to live harmoniously with the situation.

Joining the choir to say: I have the same problem. Bought at 2011 Outback last month with 124,000 miles. Before long all those lights flashing on the dash. The car will sputter when the lights first start up, have to 'downshift' with the paddles to 4th. Currently the lights come and go. My assessment is: these cars are seriously overengineered and are too complex for anyone's good and their own functioning. I had no idea what little monsters modern cars, or at least modern Subarus, have become. Big mistake in buying it. I wonder if any other suckers have been born since I bought it?

Two months ago I bought a 2012 Outback with the 3.6r engine. I'm in the habit of double clicking when I fill the tank and had filled it a few days ago. Last night on the way to Fred Meyers in Lacey the check engine light came on, followed by the cruise, traction and brake lights flashing. I have an appointment with Hanson Subaru in Olympia for Friday. After reading all the posts here, I'm not optimistic.

Yup. You're about to waste a bunch of money. My recommendation is to disconnect the battery, maybe clean the terminals, reconnect it and be on your way. What do you have to lose? If the lights come back on again, you can always make another appointment. I assume your Outback drives normally. No other symptoms? From everything in this forum, it is clear that the ECU reacts the same way to different inputs (and different than any other manufacturer), which is why we don't get the same results or have the problem under the same circumstances. OR. . . there is a single cause for this that we haven't found yet. For instance, the timing of my error had nothing to do with getting gas. You and I have the same model year, but completely different engines. Seriously, save yourself the money and let the problem simmer a little longer before taking the car in to people who will likely have no clue. Good luck!

My problem has been solved after changing my alternator. I changed it 3-4 months ago and never had the flashing dash lights again. There are several how to do it yourself videos on youtube and it really wasn't that hard and I am a lousy mechanic. Just type in the year of your subaru and type in what you want to repair. It could be as easy as cleaning your battery posts too. It is being caused somewhere between your battery and alternator. Most auto part stores can check the condition of your battery and alternator for free. I hate being at the mercy of an auto repair shop.

Owner of 3 Subaru's 2006 Forester, 2011 and 2013 Outback. All of have the flashing light issues. If anyone from Subaru corporate is reading my comment and the hundreds of other comments you have to realize that you have a problem. I am one of hundreds that will never buy a Subaru again and tell others not to. Subaru---are you listening? My guess is you don't care.

Welp, purchased a 2011 outback with 120,000 miles on it in March and a month later the lights began. Flashing brake light, check engine, and vehicle dynamics control light plus cruise flashing and inoperable. Frustrating that the dealership did not mention prior to purchase (albeit not surprising). Car runs fine so I recognize its a defect. Wouldn't buy another Subaru due to the myriad of electrical problems - hoping to clean the corroded battery terminal to fix the issue as other small attempts have not worked. Somewhat of a safety concern given I will now never know if the brakes are actually not functioning properly. Please SUBARU find a solution.

Update: The warning lights all went out and everything was fine. Then I filled the tank and it happened again. Just as I was entering I-5 all the lights came back on. When I got home, I removed the gas tank cap, used a plastic funnel to open the mouth for a second, then put the cap back on. Nothing changed. Then, with the engine running, I did it again and all the lights went off. Yesterday I replaced the old cap with a new one and next time I fill the tank I'll see what happens.

This happened to me a few weeks ago. I got the codes read at my garage. They cleared it, and the lights came back on immediately. I brought it back the next day and they said the code read the same, and fixed them (solenoid and oil pressure switch = 350 bucks). It seems like this combination of flashing lights can mean many many different things... and may not always be reliable. It seems like there were real issues with my solenoid and oil pressure switch, though. So I'm really hoping this is a real solution... will update if it returns. :L

I have a 2011 Subaru Legacy with that issue. I read a lot of different things about what might cause the problem. My thought was some sort of electrical issue. I cleaned the battery post and the light stayed off for about two years. It just recently started again. The battery cable end on the Subaru's tend to collect buildup in places you can't really get to so I replaced the positive battery cable end and have not had an issue since. LAS

My 2012 outback has the same problem. I opened and closed the gas cap, nothing changed. I opened and closed the gas cap with car running, nothing change. My brother (mechanic lives in a different state) tells me the problem is somewhere between the alternator and the battery. I tested the alternator and it was good. I think whenever you disconnects the battery, it resets the error temporarily. I cleaned the corrosion on the battery post and the lights came back after driving about 10 miles or so. I replaced the battery and the lights came back on after driving about 10 miles or so. I filled up fuel and the lights went away. Not sure which was the fix.

2011 Subaru Outback does the same nonsense, throwing up a bunch of meaningless lights with equally meaningless codes. Subaru makes the only car thats a big enough piece of junk so as to make my Nissian Xterras continual knock sensor code seem nice! Im going to sell both of them and buy one Toyota to drive....bet that fixes the issue.

Ok? Seems everyone is having same issues, time to sell this so called, best safety vehicle, or class action suit or enter ot into the lemon law, since subaru doesn't seem to repair the situation. Had the same thing a few months ago, blew out the license plate lights, on my 2011 legacy, have not used the automatic lights, cruise control, radio controls on steering wheel dont work. Guess I've had enough of this issue, time to sell the headaches back to subaru!. So much for customer care!

Same issue here on and off for several years. On our third gas cap. Nobody can figure it out. Super frustrating.

On a 2011 Outback 3.6 Premium

Dead battery, nice slow charge, and then panel had brake, check engine and cruise warnings. Drove 20 miles, saw a brake bulb out, all lights were gone and I changed a bulb. So far so good

I had the dashboards light up today. After I read some of the replies above, I tried the gas cap with no luck. Then cleaned the battery terminals and bingo! The lights stopped flashing. Yahoo! 2010 outback 141000miles.

@ Guru9TWPPT did you disconnect the battery cables from the terminals? Because if you did, that just resets the codes. It’s not a real fix.

I really appreciate this thread. Thank you everyone for posting. I had this warning light triad happen to my 2013 Subaru Outback yesterday. Frankly it was shocking and I was afraid to drive home when it happened. I pulled over and checked the manual for what it meant (also shocking) I checked fluids and the car was running fine, so I proceeded home. Read these suggestions last night (felt better.) Tightened my gas cap (no change) before driving to an autozone to read the code as suggested. Had the same code mentioned above: P0420. I did not ask to reset and it still was on until I filled the gas tank shortly after. I noticed RIGHT ON THE GAS CAP it says that failure to tighten gas cap properly can cause a check engine light. After filling the light went out! Whew. Anyway, definitely the first steps if you are reading this thread--it could be as simple as that.

Subaru Outback 2013 diesel, used on highway 3 times a week recently serviced and given clean bill of health, on highway this morning christmas tree lights appear - DPF, Check engine, cruise flashing and one other I think handbrake either way I feel for all of hose who have commented. Great car but loaded with sensors and sadly if fuel cap is worn or seal is worn yes it will set off dash lights, especially if the vehicle is running/performing well - so for me my dealer running codes for free but looking like a simple fix, definately check battery terminals, tighten/clean dirty or loose ones, check fuel cap and replace any blown bulbs, no doubt annoying to all and you would think Subaru would enter into "blogs" with friendly solutions as part of their service - great all round go most places vehicle but don't buy a diesel if you are just dropping kids at local school as DPF will clog quickly, but definitely buy a diesel if its a go on long distance a couple times a week journeys.

I had this problem. Spend almost $1800 at the dealer before finding this thread. Granted some of that was in value-added services, but at least $700.00 was in diagnosis fees and replacing a Mass Air Flow Sensor that didn't need replacing. Lights came on again shortly after getting car home. A good cleaning of the terminals and wire clamps with water and baking soda resolved the problem. I blasted the dealership in their Subaru survey about this, they should have known about this with the thousands of cars they see.

Thanks all for the help. 2013 Subaru, 122k miles, same issue. Har! What is funny is how this guy Mark finds all these comments helpful. OK seriously, I am going to try all of the suggestions. The car runs fine. No cruise control is no biggie. This has been going on for a few thousand miles now and the car just keeps on driving. I am DEFINITELY NOT taking it to a Subaru dealer. It would appear it is NOT a mechanical problem. It is most likely an electronic problem or even just an electric problem. Step 1: clean your battery terminals Step 2: with car running open and close gas cap (the O2 sensor has something to do with this) Step 3: Check to see if any bulbs are out (you should fix those anyway) Step 4: Get an ODB and reset codes. Keep doing this for a while if the lights keep coming on. Step 5: Let's get an attorney and file a class action claim

I had this issue on my 2012 Outback, back in 2012 and continues every 2-3 years since. First time, the car was under warranty. Subaru knows the issue but will not recall because it is not a true "safety issue". It occurs when the pressure in the gas line gets disrupted for some reason. That is why various updates in this list talk about the gas cap, filling up your tank, etc. Sometimes a fill up at the gas station requires you to re-tighten your cap and all is well again. Other times it lasts for weeks. Then I take off the battery cables and good for another 2+ years.

Harping in here just because this is the only spot I'm finding answers. My 2019 Forester has the exact same issue. Over the weekend, on the Blue Ridge Parkway of all places, the Brake, Check Engine, and EyeSight lights all started flashing. Tightened the gas cap and drove all the way home with no issue. Cranked it this morning and the engine started almost shaking and the lights were back. Called Subaru, can't take the car til the freaking 21st. Going to my local mechanic tomorrow morning. I have a code reader and it's giving me P0087, which means something with fuel pressure being too low. Ugh.

After driving my 2011 Subaru Outback for a few miles the whole gamut of dash lights came as described in the preceding posts. I disconnected the battery and cleaned the posts along with taking the gas cap off. When I reconnected the battery all the warning lights were off and the car seems to be running without a problem.

We have a 2013 Outback that can only be categorized as "junk". We had the problem of cruise control, brake light and check engine light. I have tried every "fix" presented on this forum to no avail. Subaru simply makes a junk vehicle and presents itself to the public as loving, tree hugging animal friendly environmentalists. The simple fact is that they make a poorly engineered money pit that no one in their right mind should buy. Judging by the posts, this problem has been around for YEARS and Subaru has made no attempt to figure it out. DO NOT BUY A SUBURU AND SPREAD THE WORD ABOUT THEIR PRODUCT!!!!

Well after reading all 152 of these posts I may need a drink, but I feel that I now know each and every one of you and since I recently purchased a 2010 subaru outback I am now part of the freaky dash lights club . I plan on starting on most of the helpful ideas and maybe some of the ones that sound less helpful and the only answer can be that the computer malfunctions at the slightest issues .Wouter I also can't help to think why Mark finds all of these comments helpful but will suggest that we do a road trip and we can all meet as long as it's less than 200 miles from my house . Anyways I will post back with what I think my fix is after I'm done but as per the post rules it has to be 4 to 6 months or it will not be deemed a fix . Thank you all for the laughs now

2013 Outback, 181K, check engine, cruise, brake lights were flashing, dealer said cv & spark plugs needed to be replaced. Did all that & lights started flashing again a week later. It’s been a couple of months & now my car feels like it’s chugging/misfiring…Ugh. I am beyond frustrated. This is my first Subaru. I bought this car brand new. From day one it’s required oil between changes. I read something about a class action where many others were having the same issue so I guess that’s a “normal” issue. I am now seriously worried about my cars reliability. Buying another car in this market would be crazy. Suggestions welcome….thx

This worked for me....you tube subaru idle fix/idle relearn 2:29 minute video

I also have the same situation as everyone on this forum. I also have a 2013 Subaru Outback and with the same lights on and I also will let you guys and gals know if I'm able to fix the problem with your advise....Stay tune! Semper Fi. USMC

tightened the cap with the engine running. Shorted the battery cables. Problem solved (for now). I could hug you guys but that would be weird. Thanks....

Not an Outback, but a 2014 Legacy with the same grouping of lights flashing. The first few times (2 months ago), the lights come on and stayed on until hubby scanned and cleared the codes (code said it was an emissions issue, but after reading about the same issues on various forums, we were doubtful). For the last couple of weeks, the same lights flicker on and off randomly dozens of times per drive (but always at the same time as a group) - and some additional symptoms started today. At the exact moment the lights flicker, there is a knocking sound right under the gear selector (I can even feel the knocking if I put my hand there) AND the speedometer needle drops down to almost zero before resuming its correct reading when the flickering stops. But there's no change in performance while driving. It happens between 30 - 60 mph (not sure about higher than that, since I'm not on the interstate much). We're putting a new alternator in today - hubby replaced it about the same time as this started happening. Coincidentally (or not?), this will be the 4th new alternator in a year (replaced old one June 2021, warranty replacement in November 2021, another new one March 2022, and the impending warranty replacement May 2022). Apparently you still have to buy a new one if the replacement is bad - not very happy about that. I don't know if that will fix the problem, but I wanted to mention it. From what I've read on other sites, some of these symptoms point towards alternator issues. In addition, he just told me that he's noticed that my the brightness of my headlights is still flickering (not noticeable to me since I'm not driving at night) even after he put in the new alternator a few months ago. Maybe it's a separate issue than the weird dashboard lights, but I'm really hoping that (another) new alternator fixes this. Car has 178K miles, so we're not looking to sink a bunch of money in it, but I'd like to get another year out of it. Like a few other posters mentioned, my Subaru eats up the headlight too (we've been changing them out every few months, which is pretty ridiculous). We switched to LED this last time - they're a different color than the fog lights, but oh well. My only other complaints about it are the %^$& tires (Subaru + low-profile tires are a combination from hell) and we have to top off the only between oil changes. This is my 2nd Subaru, and when it's time to buy a new(er) car, I don't know if I'll get a 3rd.

The same three lights (solid check engine, flashing brake and cruise light) came on suddenly. Auto Zone told me the code indicated it was the catalytic converter to which I was not surprised after looking at this thread. I took off the gas cap while the car was running as suggested by someone. I also had noticed after I filled up with gas that it seemed to be a little sluggish so I wondered if I had received bad gas. A couple of days later, I put on the emergency brake while parking. When I took the brake off before driving it, none of the warning lights were on. It is driving fine. I have no idea what the cause was, but it seems to have fixed itself.

What Iv been doing, as I have the same exact issue, I remove the battery terminals. Let it sit for a few min, reattach them and the lights clear and car feels perfectly fine. Been dealing with this issue for a few years now. Lights come back on every 6 months or so. Iv spent probably thousands at this point.

08-22-22. 2014 Subaru Legacy. Replaced gas cap, detached A cable on the battery for a minute. Lights are gone. Seems to have worked.

I had this issue the other day on my 2011 outback (190,000 miles on it) - check engine and traction control lights on, flashing cruise control and brake lights - car would not accelerate and the parking brake wouldn't seem to disengage I had just had the brakes replaced, as well as a bunch of other stuff (trying to get this car to 300,000 miles) and feared that this would be a huge repair. In the end, I had AAA tow it to the mechanics. They found that a rodent had chewed through some wiring and replaced the wire! It wound up being a $400 fix, but whatever, that's pretty minimal compared to the cost of a new car.

My 2013 outback had the same problem with the three lights coming on. Yet nothing seemed wrong with the car. I took advice above and cleaned the corrosion off the battery. For now that seems to have worked.

Same issue here with my 2011 Subaru Outback, 80k miles. We bought it new. Ironically the lights suddenly came on on my way home from a Subaru dealership checking out a new 2023 Outback. We almost bought it but later decided to look around more. With the dashboard light issue to be resolved, after reading hundreds of posts from similar victims, I doubt I would have the courage to trust Subaru again. Thank you all for providing the ideas. I will try them one by one tomorrow... The funny thing is Subaru vehicles rank on the very top of Consumer Report (nonprofit by independent reviewers), including Outback, Forester and Crosstrek. While we are complaining here, Subaru is drawing many new customers. I have quite a few friends recently purchased Subaru. I am wondering if anyone has a connection to journalists and have them expose this issue publicly.

Wow, this is an ongoing problem for sure. I took my car in last year for repair with these lights blinking along with the oil light consistantly coming on way before being due according to the mileage. Subaru dealer "fixed" the problem for almost $4,000. Today the oil light came on again 2,000 miles earlier than it should and then tonight all the lights started blinking again. I did have a headlight out which I had changed out today??? I have tried the gas cap thing as a fix to no avail. The cruise control won't work. Getting tired of having to have the car fixed. Clearly, service at the dealer has seen this before???

2012 4 cyl Outback, 2nd occurance of flasbing Check Engine, Cruise, Brake lights. Recleaned positive battery connector, which entails taking the cable assembly completely apart to remove dirt and oil from between the 3 cables connections. Lights are off again.

To answer previous poster... I am that sucker. Just bought a 2011 Outback a few months ago. The problem is when you search Subaru reviews you get nothing but rainbows and unicorns. Flash forward to a few months after all new brakes, battery, radiator, thermostat, bulbs, etc and you search for "Subaru check engine light" it takes you straight here.

In the past several years, removing the battery cable on our 2012 Outback 2.5 temporarily cleared the warning lights. In May it did not keep warning lights off. The cooling system had a small leak in a crossover tube that went unnoticed due to the constant warning lights, causing head gasket failure. Waiting to hear if block is cracked. Vehicle had 110K miles. This warning light issue can be complex. Refer to subaruoutback.org "Warning lights all came on simultaneously" for more info regarding the P0420 error code. Apparently, head gasket failure is not uncommon on this engine.

2014 Outback Subaru with the same dash light issues. Power steering fluid was low. Filled power steering fluid to the appropriate fill line, lights went off immediately!!!

2014 Subaru Outback. Those flashing lights (cruise control, check engine, and I think brake?) were on for more than 2 years. It started around 160,000 miles and it just got fixed at 216,000 miles. The car always ran just fine, but when the frequency of the lights got to be on about 80-90% of the time, I decided it was time to have it looked at. Each time I went to Subaru to get my oil change,d as luck would have it, the lights were never on. However, the last oil change they were on and they ran the code P0420 and they said most likely the catalytic converter and would be at least $4000. Because I had read plenty about these light issues and peoples frustration with no fix, I of course did not have Subaru fix it. Hubby made an appointment at a local auto shop and of course they came back with P0420, P0171,C0231. (That's what's on my receipt). They were quite certain it was a sensor. They ran a lot of tests and my car passed everything so no catalytic converter to be replaced. Im the end they replaced the front 02 sensor AND the oxygen sensor. That bill was just over $1200. My car also needed brakes and transmission fluid service. The mechanic (who just happened to be a Subaru mechanic) said to first drive the car for some miles to make sure the dash light problems are fixed before we put more money into it. So, after about 1200 miles we had the other work done too. So far everything is fixed and after 2 years, finally back to normal. Mechanic said car is in really good shape, so keeping my fingers crossed that I'll get a few more years out this car.

This is a follow up of my posting of 2 days ago (2014 subaru outback, Mollie63) Apparently I jinxed myself! The darn 3 lights are on AGAIN in my dash. It went for about 1500 miles and now the lights are on again! Previously we had tried the other tricks of cleaning off the battery cable, tightening gas cap, etc. I just don't know what we will try next, if anything. Just thought I'd let you know so people don't think that the two censors may work for them.

If you have this issue with a PO420 code I have a solution. Put a spacer on the rear O2 sensor. It's the O2 sensor that's after the two "pre-cats" and right where the exhaust comes together to form a single pipe. Using a spacer moves the sensor an inch or two away from the direct flow of the exhaust and evens out the reading to the CPU. It solved my problem. I did it one year ago and have not had a problem since. 8,000 miles. If you go to YouTube and search "O2 sensor spacer" or "spark plug non fouler as O2 spacer" or something similar there are a number of videos that show how to do it. It took me 1 hour to complete and I've been doing a happy dance ever since. Basically you go buy a spark plug non-fouler at any auto parts store for about $10-$15 dollars. Then you have to drill one end out so that the O2 sensor will fit and then install it on the exhaust. Like I said, it moves the sensor an inch or two out of the direct exhaust stream and stops the sensor from getting extreme fluctuations of exhaust which is what triggers the code. It has worked beautifully for me. I hope this helps some of you. Good Luck.