1982 dodge pickup headlights don't work. I put meter on neg battery terminal and light plug and lights came on then I heard a dull noise and shut off lights and turned on again and they did not work.
if the main 1/0 cable to chassis connection is solid, with a fresh batttery (newer than five) would suggest the pullout switch for the headlights is bad~ https://www.google.com/#psj=1&q=1982+Dodge+RAM+headlight+switch&tb m=shop
these have an overlord breaker built in that stops current if excessive~ check the chassis ground...the 1/0 cable as it connects to the chassis ground...this is an important one and 'lectronics are forced to "Beef it onto themselves" if there is NO ground available...this connection gets corrupted when dis-similar metals react (weld) with the 300 or more Amps in a blue spark fury...everytime the starter is engaged...sadly this is THE SAME ground that the delicate components need, ECU, ignition, fuel, wipers, dash lights...etc~....clean it up...boneheads really need one for the monster and another for the clean-up crew~
I changed the switch, the amber lights below the headlights work, stumped
...achem, the electricity is there just needs PROPER ground...the current ground is compromised due to the repeated demand for WELDING amperages...leaving a "semiconductor" layer of corrosion yielding varying voltages and available amperages which is not good for the delicate electronic components that your life may depend on like the airbag sensor and the high-pressure fuel cutoff~
wirebrush the black cable...the spot where the black cable connects...used to an Engineering audience~
those are called DRL's (daytime running lights) what is the first pull...the second pull should pop on the head/high beams if a bad ground will trip the breaker on the bottom...will return once cool...BAD GROUND....did you get that memo yet?
Thanks, I think I had an aluminum washer on the connection.
yes, aluminum wants to react...glad you scrubbed that off~ thank you...it's been a pleasure serving you~
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