Durango keeps stalling when stopping...why?

Asked by Mar 06, 2013 at 10:33 AM about the 2004 Dodge Durango SLT 4WD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

When I go to stop the RPM gage will drop and it will stall and then it will start right back up or the RPM gage will jump back up after dropping and it will stay running. But it is starting to die more ofter at a stop sign then the RPMs jumping back up. Also two times since Ive had it when it has been raining, I will be on the high way and it will start to seem like it cutting out like it isnt getting fuel. But it stops after a couple minutes and never dies.

35 Answers


It could be any number of things. Get the codes rad at the parts store to see if there are any pending codes. - It could need a basic tune up ie plugs, wires and air filter.

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.

I would check and see if the throttle body is real dirty causing it to stick/affect air flow. If it has a idle air control valve i would check it while you were there.

9 out of 9 people think this is helpful.

intermittent...with rain....got to be a high voltage issue-....wires, connectors...somebody is leaking the high voltage. There are 'wands' available to spot high-voltage leaks-

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.

2004-2013 nine years old high-voltage wires...it's time to change them.

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.

I would start by checking the battery, out trucks are very demanding when it comes to the battery, you can start by cleaning the connectors if that don´t work it is probably time for a new battery, you can have it tested and also check if the alternator is giving you little over 14 volts.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

My Durango is doing the same thing. Just had the throttle body replaced and it didn't help.

10 out of 10 people think this is helpful.

I found this on another thread describes my problem to a tee! I'm taking it back to Aamco tomorrow morning. 38000mi 2005 Dodge Durango Limited w/ Hemi, many mods - exhaust, intake, shift kit, rims, you name it. Love it. Sounds mean as hell. But the STALLING! ugh - read on... RPM's would consistently fade below 500 upon deceleration (i.e. slowing for turns, traffic lights, etc.), shudder and then stall. No check engine light - ever. Stall would only happen while car was in Drive (not on startup), and was always immediately re-startable, albeit in the middle of a f***ing intersection. Mileage crept down from 14 to 10.5mpg. Began to fear stopping/stalling and thus performed rolling stops for the past few months. Brought to the dealer 4 times to no avail - they re-flashed PCM, applied TSB 18-013-05 Rev A=>nothing. They recommended throttle body service, which I did myself. Decent amount of coking but nothing too bad. My air intake filter was filthy, thought that might be it, cleaned that up=>nope. Bought myself a new EGR valve from Parts dept and installed it (what a bitch, not very conveniently located)=>no dice. Was at wits end, finally brought it back to dealer and told them that I love the truck but if they cant fix the stalling I'm trading it in and never buying Dodge again. They kept it for six days, kept test driving it, hooked up a computer and recorded the parameters when the car stalled, uploaded data to STARScan, even the chrysler techs said everything looked perfect from a computer/sensor standpoint. Then, they called me and asked if I had recently CHANGED MY TRANSMISSION FLUID OR HAD IT SERVICED. I certainly did, did it myself at 30000 miles following their own service manual's instructions. Hmm...come to think of it, stalling problem started right around that time...hmmm...Apparently, there is a little-known issue with the filter gasket that if you don't tap it in ABSOLUTELY F***ING PERFECT, it will suck air into the system, froth up the fluid, and mess up the sensors, causing a stall upon decelerating. I was skeptical, but when they checked my tranny fluid there were air bubbles on the end f the dipstick! So I said go ahead, do (another) tranny service, make sure the filter gasket has good seal. They also replaced a Mass Air? Sensor part# 5033110-AC or 8037155. To make a short story long...MY CAR IS NOW FIXED, RUNS LIKE A DREAM, NO MORE IDLE FLUCTUATIONS AND NO MORE STALLING!!!!!! Hope this helps at least ONE other person out there, to save the diagnostic headaches I went thru...just have them service the tranny!

130 out of 130 people think this is helpful.

Here is the root cause for my 2004 Durango with Hemi engine. Due to age, windshield cowling has begun to deteriorate and the seal against the windshield has failed and water was running right down into the engine compartment and right onto the fuse block! Spent a lot of money at repair shop and finally figured it out myself. Did a major cleaning of the seal and used electrical tape to test the theory. Drove it in several major Florida downpours with no issues. Due to age, I will simply run a bead of silicone as opposed to buying a pricy replacement cowling and several hours of labor.

6 out of 6 people think this is helpful.

Had the same issues with my 05 Durango. Turns out torque converter was going which caused a clog in the cooling system. End result; new trans, torque converter, and cooling lines. Insult to injury the computer system failed. 3800 to fix it!

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

bblauto: Hallo did you fix it? Have same...

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

Engine loping can be caused by dirty throttle body. Disassemble and clean all the carbon off until it looks like new -- especially in the cavity of the Idle Air Control valve since it can get stuck there. Do this before you start to replace parts. Then adjust the throttle position cable to the trans. If that does not work replace the IAC, throttle position sensor, temperature sensor, and MAP sensor. MAP sensor is expensive so do that last.

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.

camshaft and crankshaft sensors.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

Had the same issue with my 99 5.2 durango. ..jerking, rpms reving, stalling out at stop lights etc.....AFTER two weeks of missing work, being stuck on the side of the road numerous times, changing the distributor, cap, rotor, tps, crankshaft sensor, and the camshaft sensor it turned out to be my IAC valve $31 @ autozone. ....IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCING THESE SYMPTOMS try cleaning or changing this FIRST!!!

14 out of 14 people think this is helpful.

My 2006 dodge Durango is doing the same thing "cutting off" while sitting in traffic. Also my ignition switch gets stuck and it won"t turn over. unable to start the truck.

10 out of 10 people think this is helpful.

Mine only does this when it's cold. I was in Phoenix this weekend and in never did it not once. But as soon as I got back to Prescott (6000 ft elevation) it's doing it again if it's not warmed up. If yours is doing it when it's warm I would have the dealer check the level of the transmission fluid or just fill it to the brim your self and see if that helps. My ignition switch is very though, I have to move the key in and out slightly a number of times before it will turn, but I never thought that the two issues could be related.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

i would get a new key after so many years the old key wears down over time it won't work in the ignition switch or get a new ignition switch it can go bad or your idel control unit is bad

also check you altanater that can be why its shuting off


My 2005 durango ran great...except once a year it would just randomly stall out...usually when slowing or turning into a parking stop and usually in the spring when we started getting warmer temps and some humidity. Gradually the stalls got more frequent and this went on for 6+. Yrs... Then it was stalling almost every time I stopped. Had the IAC valve replaced and runs great. Still yet to find out if that's what was causing the random warm weather stalls but my RPMs no longer drop like they did feeling like it was gonna kill.

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.

I had the same think happening. I had my O2 Sensor replaced that is located on the left side. 05' Durango. Since then no worries.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

My 06 Durango was doing the same thing with the idle and the dying from time to time I replaced the throttle position sensor which cost me 33 bucks and it is located on the top left hand side of the throttle body problem went away and it runs good now with no more issues

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

Picture yourself standing in front of the car with the hood open. Most of the problems were corrected by replacing parts at the top rear of the engine. That is where the water collected by the top of the car, rolling down the windshield, is dumped when the weatherstripping on the cowl / windshield boundary fails. Water corrodes electrical contacts over time. The plastic cowl shrinks over time. The 1/8" rubber bead gets brittle over time. The fix is to re-seal bottom of windshield with $20 of weatherstrip, after you have replaced the damaged sensors.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

my durango began to stall in reverse..sometimes it will shut off..sometimes it will only crank in neutral..i didnt have the issue..or any issues until my truck was recently serviced at jiffy..i sure hope i have breanskis' luck

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

If you are running gasoline with ethanol in it in your vehicles, you are making a big mistake. Try to switch to premium as quickly as possible and have regular maintenance done. If you're lucky you haven't done permanent damage to your vehicle.

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.

I'm having similar issue now the dash light and the cluster goes in and out when you put in park and restart it the thing will not go into gear. Till reset

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

I faught the Durango dieing problem for 5 months. I went on ebay and baught a remaufactred ECM for a few hundred $. it has ran with no probloms for 3000 miles. baught ECM from all computer resourses


Turn on your car let it warm up 10mins tops ... Get in the freeway or high way press down the gas pedal all the way down do this for 5secs and wait few secs to do it agian 3 times atleast.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Similar issue. Would stall after letting off the break and pressing on the gas. then would be hard to start. What i did to fix it. In order, new spark plugs, new throttle plate sensor (TPS), new crankshaft sensor, new camshaft sensor, new air filter. HOWEVER, if I were you, try to work this list backwards, start with the air filter! Honestly don't think the spark plugs had much to do with it, but they need to be done anyways. If you are mechanically inclined, it is pretty easy to do all this work on your own, the crankshaft sensor is extremely hard to pull out btw, just keep pulling is my advice. Both the crankshaft and camshaft sensor can be found through the front passenger wheel well. crank is more rear and cam is more to the front. TPS sensor is attached right to the throttle body itself. hope some finds this helpful.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

The one thing I did not see (or may have missed I am sorry if I did) is the cam and crank position sensors. They can cause stalling, ignition problems and even cause your engine to begin to shake as a lot of people on here and other forums are describing. I own a 2006 Dodge Durango with a 4.7l and it began to shift hard at times and stall whenever I came to a complete stop. So far after replacing these two things it has worked well and if you have experienced power loss this may also help in your case.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

My answer to the above distributor cap.


breanskis had the answer. i had the same problem. come to a stop, rpms shoot down and boom, engine dies. for smits and giggles i checked tranny fluid ( of course im thinking there is no way that tranny fluid could case this issue.) tranny is 3 quarts low. i added fluid and OH MY GOD, hasnt stalled since. wether or not you believe it, it cant hurt to CHECK YOUR TRANNY FLUID.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

My 2003 Durango had been giving me issues for the last three years. I would start the car and the vehicle would runhe first couple miles and than a volt symbol would flash on the dash. Once it started flashing I would loose power and the truck would shutter. I could put the vehicle into neutral and restart while coasting and once restarted vehicle would stay running with no issues. This was a daily occurrence. I went to numerous dealership and no codes were ever stored in computer. They could never find anything. Recently I became frustrated and took to another dealership. After a little examination of the engine compartment they came back and said it was an EGR tube that was shorting out against the battery wire. This was causing arching and created a hole in the EGR tube throwing the computer off. I also had a slight ticking noise that I thought was an exhaust manifold leak but was actually the arching of the wire and ERG tube. Glad it is finally fixed and truck is running great. Now I wish they would do something about the rust on the back left corner panel. It seems all Durangos in this age have rust under the gas door on the fender. If you have answers to this, please let me know.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Hey Finally Happy- Dodge issued a recall for the gas overflow which caused our rust under the gas door however they refused to replace the rusty fender,,, not a good look dogde... seeing all durangos from around 2004-2009 with rust in the same place. For some reason I love my 2005 Duango but they do have issues as I guess every vehicle does at some point in its life. But when the issue is due to a manufacturer flaw they should fix it and the damages it caused. Our stalling issues have stopped since we replace the IAC valve replaced. Hasnt stalled on us once.


Im have the exact same problem except my 2nd fuel injector keeps going out i just replaced it i have no idea what to do ive check a lot of thing and still have no idea


And its an 01 dakota sport

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

I have a 2005 dakota 4.7. If I dont let it warm up for 2 minutes it will set a multiple miss fire code. If I let it warm up it is fine. Another thing I found out if you put the truck in gear before warming it up it will start to miss/. While doing this if you take the transmission out of gear the code will go way instantly and if you put it back into gear the code reappears and starts missing again. But like I said before if you let it warm up for 2 minutes it is fine. The code it is setting during the miss is P0700 transmission control system malfunction with the P0100

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