Why won't my car turn over after I shut it off?
So to start my car won't start after it
has been running for a few minuites. I
can drive it down the road and back
and shut it off then try to crank it and
all power comes on but the car won't
turn over. The starter isn't even
clicking and the battery isn't dead. I
just replaced the camshaft position
sensor trying to fix it. That didn't
work. And that's the code the
computer was giving me. It will start
after sitting for about 15-30 min. So it
isn't like it isn't starting at all. Please
help I'm out of ideas!
Wont be much help but i tell everyone this with a chrysler product.....get rid of it!
Check the starter motor relay. It may be malfunctioning once it gets hot.
By the way, in response to kbro, all cars are junk, regardless of the manufacturer.
Everyone has their opnion. I base mine on seeing them every day and chrysler warranty pays worse then any brand i see. I got payed 12hrs to do a head gasket on a new escape 1.6L. Chrysler guy had to put head gaskets on a v8 charger and it payed 6 much more work less pay hurray! And they have the shittiest electrical problems. Fords and chevy dont have near the electrical crap, cant speak for other brands. But thats what i see on a daily basis and i will never own one. They all tear up and thank god they do or else i wouldnt make any money but i prefer to work on fords. Chryslers products suck to work on and dont pay.
I base my opinion on seeing different cars every day as well. As far as warranty work is concerned, I know many manufacturers list unfair repair times to the technicians who are getting paid flat rate to perform the work. I manage a private repair shop... We work on many different makes and models. I know, from my experience, that every car is great, but no car is perfect. Every vehicle has its inherent problems. Focus wagons with their tailgate wiring, 04-08 Triton spark plugs, Chrysler product with sensors, GMs with head gasket problems, Nissan's cheap metal, Hyundais and Kias with their expensive parts... No make or model is 100% perfect. Besides, if they were, you'd be out of a job!
Get the motor hot and use a impact on the triton plugs. since ive been doing that i havent had one break! But yes i said im glad they tear up thats how i make money
I think we all are. Our best record on the Tritons is 4 out clean. Our worst was only 1 out clean...
How much do you charge when they break?
The initial estimate that I write out for the client includes 8 plugs, 'book time' for the job, plus an extra 1/2 hour per plug (4 hours to extract), plus 1 extraction bit per plug (8 total). If the plugs co-operate, we only charge out for what breaks and the extraction bits we use. I've never had one roll out of the shop even close to the estimate, but I would rather quote a client a high price and close off an invoice at a lower price than vice-versa...
They make a tool to get them out its about 100 bucks but it gets them out good when they break. It would save you money on bits. Wheny the tool truck rolls around ask him about one.
I think you're talking about the extractor kit from OTC (or from whoever... ours is from OTC...). The bits for the extractor kit wear out after a couple of plugs, depending on how stubborn they are. You can get the bits separately, we typically keep 2 or 3 on the shelf at any given time. We charge them to the customer as we use them. It's only fair.
http://reviews.matcotools.com/7535-en_us/2074880/matco-tools-ford-broken-plug-remover-reviews/reviews.htm This is the tool im talking about we use it on everyone we do. buy it once and good to go. the black piece breaks the porclin and pushes it down and then the other part has threads and screws into the metal and then you back it out.
It's the same as the OTC tool. Plus, we don't have Matco where we work.
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