some one please help'96 sebring LX 2.5
Okay , I'm lost now...my sons car will not fire up...it cranks but will not fire up. Now here's the funny part. Before I replaced the fuel pump I sprayed either into the throttle body and it fired up. So I replaced the pump as you can see from the list below.
This is what I have had replaced so far....
1. new plugs & wires, yes they where gaped and in the proper firing order
2. new Distributor, rotor, ignition coil.
3. new fuel pump & filter. When this was replaced I did here the pump kick on and a good 15 to 20 seconds of fuel into the throttle body.
So what where do I go from here? Some one please help I need to get this thing back on the road ASAP.
a NEW battery (one which will accept a charge yet [not yet five] and undo the cable connection to the chassis ground...with a coarse wirebrush assure that 300 amps can get through...no problem..also wirebrush the lug and clean off the bolt with a little brake cleaner...what we are after is CLEAN power for the ECU...with all that corrosion (that you cannot see) from dis-similar metals exchanging WELD type power, will be ending up with a layer of barely visible corrosion....remove that corrosion and the starter will turn strong and the computer will not suffer from Brown-Out~
How will this make my car fire up. I got it to fire up by spraying ether into the throttle body?
Am I understanding that you replaced the distributor assembly? Or just the cap and rotor? If the distributor was replaced the base timing needs to be reset. On that same avenue, make sure the distributor isn't 180° out. Be sure the rotor is pointing at or at least near the #1 cylinder tower on the distributor cap when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC). If it is, move the distributor back and forth while your Son cranks it. If it's out of time from replacing the distributor this should get it running. Then, using a timing light, adjust the timing as per the emissions decal under the hood. HTH. -Jim
Are you sure you are getting fire to the plugs? If not sure I would check I into that first. Did you unplug any wire harnesses to sensors? If so double check that all are fully plugged back in. Was upper intake reinstalled with new gasket and torqued properly?
http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-5876.htm -- just in case you want to double check plug wires.
And are you sure fuel is getting to the fuel rail?
Perhaps a combination of intake air temp IAT misinformation and Engine temp sensor information is getting screwed up and either or both need replacing~
Get a cam and crank sensor You need both on that car. It will ebentaully fire with the cam sensor working solo but replace bothas a pair Assuming youve covered the orher three.... Air, fuel, spark
Thanks for the ideas I will check all of these and let ya'all know what if any fixes the issue. Another question however, did the year sebring come with a factory installed anti-theft? Reason for the question is, I noticed that every now and again the lights would flash for no reason. I ordered a new key-bob but I have yet to get the thing to program itself to the car to find out if that is the reason that the flow of fuel is being shut off from the fuel rail. Any ideas on that would be greatly appreciated as well
It could have an anti-theft system from the factory. You may have to get programming instructions from your local Chrysler Dealer. I wouldn't think that would cause it not to start as long as you're using the same key. If it's like GMs it will recognize the key and should start. Take notice if the lights flash only when you lock the doors with the power door lock switch. If so the car may be "telling" you it has received the command to activate the security system 30 seconds after the last door has closed. HTH. -Jim
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