2005 Chrysler 300 2.7L throttle body Control warning light or "RED LIGHTNING BOLT", with no check engine codes.
Ok Car Gurus I need all of your help. I have a 2005 Chrysler 300 2.7 L. and my car
randomly goes into limp mode ( RED LIGHTNING BOLT) but is throwing no check engine
codes to provide any clues as to what it actually going on. I've even taken it to the
Chrysler dealership and had them do a vehicle inspection and check for stored codes with
no avail, the only thing that they were able to conclude was that the throttle body is not
closing all the way. What happens is when I start the car the red lightning bolt comes on,
but if i rev the engine to 4000 RMP and slowly release the gas pedal it goes away and the
vehicle will drive fine. Even if I shut off the engine and restart it right away it still works
fine with no issues. However, if I start the car and do not rev the engine the red lightning
bolt starts flashing and the car gets stuck in limp mode or second gear. So far I have
replaced the throttle body, and PCM as well as had it flashed and relearned, Spark plugs,
and the EGR valve. At this point I have no idea what else it could be. Hopefully someone
has had or are familiar with this issue and can shed light on the situation.
I see a a priest and holy water in your future. The damn thing is possessed!
This is commanoly a problem with the throttle body sensor. if you had replaced the entire throttle body chances are you replaced the sensor. but if you hadn't replace it and it should fix the issue. if the sensor is new try checking the plugs contacts and check the wire for any heat damage or melting and fraying.
I did replace the entire throttle body and I taped the wires with electrical tape any other suggestions?
sorry for the long replay but i did a little more looking around and found a more intuative discussion board that may help you out. It would seem it is most likely a engine computer issue. Try looking over this link im sending and it might help more then i can as it seems the person had some like wise issues with his car as your model. http://repairpal.com/dealer-and-chrysler-llc-cant-diagnose-problem-002
Thanks very much I will keep you updated with my progress.
Did you find a fix?
Hey Andy, it's been almost a month now of driving without any issues and after 2 weeks at the dealership they finally figured it out. It was in fact the PCM. Furtunatly for me the PCM was completly covered under warranty by the company I had previously purchased my replaclement from, All Computer Resources and I was able to get it replaced at no additional charge. This experience has taught me a very valuable lesson and that lesson is sometimes we can do everything right but forget the most important thing, parts can sometimes just be defective. Always double check your parts and if you have a warranty use it! It feels great to be back on the road hopes this helps others struggling to solve this difficult problem.
Mr fixit im having the same problem you had, So far i replace the e.g.r valve ,the seal and gasket for the upper e.g.r tube ,spark plugs ...2 days passed and it would seem like i nailed it ,then this morning i start the car and on goes that miserable etc light...another thing.. i dont if you experience the same thing i have because whenever we had really cold weather it would do it more frequently..... hopefully is the pcm and i can stop throwing money at it
read over the link i posted and it should help you out in this problem. Seems most problem solvers was a complete replacement of the computers from the factory directly. also the catyletic seems to go bad in these cars due to the engine miss fires and problems the egr throws out.
I'm having the exact same problem, and it only happens when it gets cold.... Year before last, I think I almost replaced everything under the hood...
sorry to open a older discussion but I'm in need of some help, I have a 2007 chrysler 300 2.7 with similar problems, the car starts and will idle for a little bit then die, when I drive it and try to speed up the car falls on its face and transmission goes into limp mode, took care to dealer and they put a used pcm in it and didn't fix it, so they put a brand new one in and ran fine for a day or two now it's back to the same problems. the dealership gave up on now I'm stuck figuring it out. anything is helpful at this point thank you.
did they check out the catalytic converter ??? Half of these issues are caused by pcm failures but if it is an on going issue and is not fixed promptly it causes carbon build up in the catalytic and clogs it up making the car go into limp mode due to improper exhaust of the fumes from the engine.
no they never checked them. there's no easy way to check them
has the o2 sensors acted up ? chances are if they are the cats are to. If the cat gets clogged tho on regular running temp the cats can and will get red hot.
no o2 sensor codes or anything. no codes at all man
well then i would suggest reading over all the posted comments and make a check list and then check off everything that's been done so far. A couple things i would recommended is unplugging the battery for 10-30 minutes and see if this corrects the issue. Another person mentioned unplugging your throttle body running the car for 30-40 seconds then plugging the sensor back in, Flip the key to power on till the throttle body stops clicking then run the vehicle. If any of these fixes work i would say the car has a fault in the throttle body.
Hey Jgsmith, based off the symptoms that your describing( No Codes, Going into limp mode,ect) the problem is more than likely going to be a PCM issue or the throttle body. I know you said the dealer replaced it with a new one but if it's one thing that I've learned it's sometime parts can fail unexpectedly. The fact that the car ran fine for a day or two points to a computer issue that needed time to recalibrate once the new pcm was installed and when it registered that there was no change it, went back to its old self. Thus leading me to believe that either the Pcm was faulty or the it's throttle body this parts fail commonly in the early Chrysler 300 models. I would recommend buying a remmanufactored PCM from All computer resources this is where I got mines from. It came with lifetime warranty I believe but don't quote me and they're very affordable. Good luck and please update us when you know more!
I am having the same issue, I just put a motor in my 2006 chrysler 300 touring, my car doesn't fall on its face or go into limp mode but the dealership where I'm from informed me that there is a sensor on the gas pedal its self and to either try that or the throttle body. Just some info to help out, I haven't fixed mine but if it works I'll update
they seem on the ball
All of you are wrong and you are just guessing and throwing parts at it. i figured it out and it will cost you 240$for me to fix for you. 979-557-1733 there are six wires rubbing somewhere.
Aaron thank you for your feedback. This forum is all about helping one another find a solution to the issue that might come up... Now giving not every solution will work for every problem but if a solution solved our problem then we are sharing that solution. It's not about being right or wrong but it's about letting everyone know what worked for you with hopes that it will do the same for them! Thank you for your contribution please update us once your issue is resolved... Also when I got my PCM replaced at the chrylser dealership they explained to me that it's not uncommon for the connections on the PCM to go bad so if your primary concern is rubbing wires that may not be a bad place to start!
I dont specialize in these vehicles but i think mrFixit hit it just right. not every issue will be exactly the same. I aim for not replacing parts unless its necessary. Hope the problem gets solved cheers.
Same prob here.I was told to first clean TB and go from there.updates later
I have replaced the throttle body the egr seal tube spark plugs I just found a vacuum leak underneath the plate that holds the injectors and replaced the gaskets and use sand paper to clean since I'm using high temp sealant in the egr tube instead of the original seal I'm just waiting for it to dry and see what happens. Note: I got the check engine light and red bolt toghter with codes p0016 p0340 p0344 they are all related
some times replacing that part works some times its the pcm so if the problem keeps occuring pull the plugs off the pcm and inspect them for damage chances are one is damaged a number of these problems occur from the computer them selves and require full replacement. i won't say replacing the pcm will straight up fix the issue but if all else fails its a good place to go for a last option. jsut be sure to keep your old computer incase it does not work so you can jsut pop the old on back in and return the new one.
I've had 3 Chrysler 300's and all of them developed this problem, it should be a factory recall but it's not. There is 3 things this normally is when this happens: your driving all of a sudden all light on dash light up like a Christmas tree and you cannot accelerate so you stop turn car off restart and it's fine for awhile with engine light on....correct? Well here's 2 of the problems I have fixed to fix this on the 300 c and the v-6 300. For the 300c there's a wiring harness running along the bottom of the valve cover the wraps around the back of the head on passenger side of the vehicle. That harness has a lil black wit that if gets exposed anywhere causes car to go in to limp mode ( it shorts out the PCM) usually dealer changes plugs and it good for awhile til wire gets back to metal again. Now if that doesn't do it then the PCM connections to PCM are bad and you need to clean connections or get new PCM. I've seen a lot of post about his and as a matter of fact is how I got my first 300 for $1000 cause it did all that after going to dealer 4-5 times an $6000 the previous edit owner paid to try to diagnose I went wire for wire to computer and came up with them 2 solutions on 3 different 300's. Dealers will charge you $100s when it takes .50 cents in tape and a wire tie. Hope this help some of you
That's the wire Aron was talking about the harness is to short and these engines jiggle a lot cilia using exposure and then the issue hope this helps
I found another vacuum leak it is the other side of the egr tube the one the connects with the egr valve I bought it in Napa 3.99 no more throttle body light no more limping it's been working good for 12 hours
I did clean the mess I did with the red sealant ...what a mess and replaced it with the new one from factory
Also returned the throttle body $220 savings Thank god
Hi I am also have a simaler problem with my car when I start my car and put it in drive and take off the car is running good but as soon as I let off of the gas pedal for a few moments the car seams to go like in lim mode or I just lose all power and it starts slowing me down to a stop or like lim mode just doesn't go any faster and if I slowe down when this is happening I can not speed up. And also I have an exhaust leak could this have anything to do with it at all ? The exhaust leak just happens recantation like a week ago achuly ; days ago now my car started doing this and thair is a flashing red lighting bolt and the esp comes on but once I start to lose power of I put the car in neutral and turn it off and start it again I get power back in till I let off the gas for like 2 3 sec and same thing happens again can some one plz help me I have no idea and I am curtly going to Lincoln tec in Denver for diesel and auto but I'm only on my 2 month fist one was u intro now I'm in transmissions day 3 starting to lean how the Alison 1000 Work's bust I need help with my car it's a 2008 Chrysler 300 2.7 liter can some one plz help Me thank you and sorry for such the long post
well first things first start hunting for leaks in any of the plubimg of the car. You can do this with easy by pushing smoke threw the air intake outlet and while the car is running you can use a spray bottle with soapy water and spray the vacum line. Any signs of bubbles indicates a leak. If your issues shows right after your muffler pipe broke then i would say that is a likely suspect.
I'm thinking its a vacuum leak and thx for the tips
sorry for the poor spelling and grammer i type to fast and never double check :P
You shouldn't have no leaks at all I know that in my case now if I drive the car low on gas it would start doing the red bolt thing again I believe I need a new gas pump
either that or you have a bunch of crap in the bottom of your tank.
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