2005 Chrysler 300 2.7L throttle body Control warning light or "RED LIGHTNING BOLT", with no check engine codes.
Ok Car Gurus I need all of your help. I have a 2005 Chrysler 300 2.7 L. and my car
randomly goes into limp mode ( RED LIGHTNING BOLT) but is throwing no check engine
codes to provide any clues as to what it actually going on. I've even taken it to the
Chrysler dealership and had them do a vehicle inspection and check for stored codes with
no avail, the only thing that they were able to conclude was that the throttle body is not
closing all the way. What happens is when I start the car the red lightning bolt comes on,
but if i rev the engine to 4000 RMP and slowly release the gas pedal it goes away and the
vehicle will drive fine. Even if I shut off the engine and restart it right away it still works
fine with no issues. However, if I start the car and do not rev the engine the red lightning
bolt starts flashing and the car gets stuck in limp mode or second gear. So far I have
replaced the throttle body, and PCM as well as had it flashed and relearned, Spark plugs,
and the EGR valve. At this point I have no idea what else it could be. Hopefully someone
has had or are familiar with this issue and can shed light on the situation.
I see a a priest and holy water in your future. The damn thing is possessed!
This is commanoly a problem with the throttle body sensor. if you had replaced the entire throttle body chances are you replaced the sensor. but if you hadn't replace it and it should fix the issue. if the sensor is new try checking the plugs contacts and check the wire for any heat damage or melting and fraying.
I did replace the entire throttle body and I taped the wires with electrical tape any other suggestions?
sorry for the long replay but i did a little more looking around and found a more intuative discussion board that may help you out. It would seem it is most likely a engine computer issue. Try looking over this link im sending and it might help more then i can as it seems the person had some like wise issues with his car as your model. http://repairpal.com/dealer-and-chrysler-llc-cant-diagnose-problem-002
Thanks very much I will keep you updated with my progress.
Did you find a fix?
Hey Andy, it's been almost a month now of driving without any issues and after 2 weeks at the dealership they finally figured it out. It was in fact the PCM. Furtunatly for me the PCM was completly covered under warranty by the company I had previously purchased my replaclement from, All Computer Resources and I was able to get it replaced at no additional charge. This experience has taught me a very valuable lesson and that lesson is sometimes we can do everything right but forget the most important thing, parts can sometimes just be defective. Always double check your parts and if you have a warranty use it! It feels great to be back on the road hopes this helps others struggling to solve this difficult problem.
Mr fixit im having the same problem you had, So far i replace the e.g.r valve ,the seal and gasket for the upper e.g.r tube ,spark plugs ...2 days passed and it would seem like i nailed it ,then this morning i start the car and on goes that miserable etc light...another thing.. i dont if you experience the same thing i have because whenever we had really cold weather it would do it more frequently..... hopefully is the pcm and i can stop throwing money at it
read over the link i posted and it should help you out in this problem. Seems most problem solvers was a complete replacement of the computers from the factory directly. also the catyletic seems to go bad in these cars due to the engine miss fires and problems the egr throws out.
I'm having the exact same problem, and it only happens when it gets cold.... Year before last, I think I almost replaced everything under the hood...
sorry to open a older discussion but I'm in need of some help, I have a 2007 chrysler 300 2.7 with similar problems, the car starts and will idle for a little bit then die, when I drive it and try to speed up the car falls on its face and transmission goes into limp mode, took care to dealer and they put a used pcm in it and didn't fix it, so they put a brand new one in and ran fine for a day or two now it's back to the same problems. the dealership gave up on now I'm stuck figuring it out. anything is helpful at this point thank you.
did they check out the catalytic converter ??? Half of these issues are caused by pcm failures but if it is an on going issue and is not fixed promptly it causes carbon build up in the catalytic and clogs it up making the car go into limp mode due to improper exhaust of the fumes from the engine.
no they never checked them. there's no easy way to check them
has the o2 sensors acted up ? chances are if they are the cats are to. If the cat gets clogged tho on regular running temp the cats can and will get red hot.
no o2 sensor codes or anything. no codes at all man
well then i would suggest reading over all the posted comments and make a check list and then check off everything that's been done so far. A couple things i would recommended is unplugging the battery for 10-30 minutes and see if this corrects the issue. Another person mentioned unplugging your throttle body running the car for 30-40 seconds then plugging the sensor back in, Flip the key to power on till the throttle body stops clicking then run the vehicle. If any of these fixes work i would say the car has a fault in the throttle body.
Hey Jgsmith, based off the symptoms that your describing( No Codes, Going into limp mode,ect) the problem is more than likely going to be a PCM issue or the throttle body. I know you said the dealer replaced it with a new one but if it's one thing that I've learned it's sometime parts can fail unexpectedly. The fact that the car ran fine for a day or two points to a computer issue that needed time to recalibrate once the new pcm was installed and when it registered that there was no change it, went back to its old self. Thus leading me to believe that either the Pcm was faulty or the it's throttle body this parts fail commonly in the early Chrysler 300 models. I would recommend buying a remmanufactored PCM from All computer resources this is where I got mines from. It came with lifetime warranty I believe but don't quote me and they're very affordable. Good luck and please update us when you know more!
I am having the same issue, I just put a motor in my 2006 chrysler 300 touring, my car doesn't fall on its face or go into limp mode but the dealership where I'm from informed me that there is a sensor on the gas pedal its self and to either try that or the throttle body. Just some info to help out, I haven't fixed mine but if it works I'll update
they seem on the ball
All of you are wrong and you are just guessing and throwing parts at it. i figured it out and it will cost you 240$for me to fix for you. 979-557-1733 there are six wires rubbing somewhere.
Aaron thank you for your feedback. This forum is all about helping one another find a solution to the issue that might come up... Now giving not every solution will work for every problem but if a solution solved our problem then we are sharing that solution. It's not about being right or wrong but it's about letting everyone know what worked for you with hopes that it will do the same for them! Thank you for your contribution please update us once your issue is resolved... Also when I got my PCM replaced at the chrylser dealership they explained to me that it's not uncommon for the connections on the PCM to go bad so if your primary concern is rubbing wires that may not be a bad place to start!
I dont specialize in these vehicles but i think mrFixit hit it just right. not every issue will be exactly the same. I aim for not replacing parts unless its necessary. Hope the problem gets solved cheers.
Same prob here.I was told to first clean TB and go from there.updates later
I have replaced the throttle body the egr seal tube spark plugs I just found a vacuum leak underneath the plate that holds the injectors and replaced the gaskets and use sand paper to clean since I'm using high temp sealant in the egr tube instead of the original seal I'm just waiting for it to dry and see what happens. Note: I got the check engine light and red bolt toghter with codes p0016 p0340 p0344 they are all related
some times replacing that part works some times its the pcm so if the problem keeps occuring pull the plugs off the pcm and inspect them for damage chances are one is damaged a number of these problems occur from the computer them selves and require full replacement. i won't say replacing the pcm will straight up fix the issue but if all else fails its a good place to go for a last option. jsut be sure to keep your old computer incase it does not work so you can jsut pop the old on back in and return the new one.
I've had 3 Chrysler 300's and all of them developed this problem, it should be a factory recall but it's not. There is 3 things this normally is when this happens: your driving all of a sudden all light on dash light up like a Christmas tree and you cannot accelerate so you stop turn car off restart and it's fine for awhile with engine light on....correct? Well here's 2 of the problems I have fixed to fix this on the 300 c and the v-6 300. For the 300c there's a wiring harness running along the bottom of the valve cover the wraps around the back of the head on passenger side of the vehicle. That harness has a lil black wit that if gets exposed anywhere causes car to go in to limp mode ( it shorts out the PCM) usually dealer changes plugs and it good for awhile til wire gets back to metal again. Now if that doesn't do it then the PCM connections to PCM are bad and you need to clean connections or get new PCM. I've seen a lot of post about his and as a matter of fact is how I got my first 300 for $1000 cause it did all that after going to dealer 4-5 times an $6000 the previous edit owner paid to try to diagnose I went wire for wire to computer and came up with them 2 solutions on 3 different 300's. Dealers will charge you $100s when it takes .50 cents in tape and a wire tie. Hope this help some of you
That's the wire Aron was talking about the harness is to short and these engines jiggle a lot cilia using exposure and then the issue hope this helps
I found another vacuum leak it is the other side of the egr tube the one the connects with the egr valve I bought it in Napa 3.99 no more throttle body light no more limping it's been working good for 12 hours
I did clean the mess I did with the red sealant ...what a mess and replaced it with the new one from factory
Also returned the throttle body $220 savings Thank god
Hi I am also have a simaler problem with my car when I start my car and put it in drive and take off the car is running good but as soon as I let off of the gas pedal for a few moments the car seams to go like in lim mode or I just lose all power and it starts slowing me down to a stop or like lim mode just doesn't go any faster and if I slowe down when this is happening I can not speed up. And also I have an exhaust leak could this have anything to do with it at all ? The exhaust leak just happens recantation like a week ago achuly ; days ago now my car started doing this and thair is a flashing red lighting bolt and the esp comes on but once I start to lose power of I put the car in neutral and turn it off and start it again I get power back in till I let off the gas for like 2 3 sec and same thing happens again can some one plz help me I have no idea and I am curtly going to Lincoln tec in Denver for diesel and auto but I'm only on my 2 month fist one was u intro now I'm in transmissions day 3 starting to lean how the Alison 1000 Work's bust I need help with my car it's a 2008 Chrysler 300 2.7 liter can some one plz help Me thank you and sorry for such the long post
well first things first start hunting for leaks in any of the plubimg of the car. You can do this with easy by pushing smoke threw the air intake outlet and while the car is running you can use a spray bottle with soapy water and spray the vacum line. Any signs of bubbles indicates a leak. If your issues shows right after your muffler pipe broke then i would say that is a likely suspect.
I'm thinking its a vacuum leak and thx for the tips
sorry for the poor spelling and grammer i type to fast and never double check :P
You shouldn't have no leaks at all I know that in my case now if I drive the car low on gas it would start doing the red bolt thing again I believe I need a new gas pump
either that or you have a bunch of crap in the bottom of your tank.
I had a similar problem with a 2007 Chrysler 300. The red throttle light and the ESP light would come on with no codes. It would reset itself by turning of the engine and re-starting. When it failed the emissions check, they found a leak in the input line to the EGR valve. Problem solved.
Yeah I replaced all 3 egr gaskets problem solve
Chrysler 300c 3.0CRD 2007 Found that the throttle body warning light comes on and engine goes into limp mode when the coolant level is low or when there is air in the coolant system and possibly if the expansion bottle filler cap needs replacing. Even with the red lightening bolt still on it does not register as a fault on the main ECU unit. Turning the engine off and back on when warm clears the fault temporarily. so does releasing some pressure from the expansion bottle when slightly warm also helps. I'm not sure exactly what the problem is but its related to the cooling system and may be the sensor that determines whether the engine is operating at normal temperature after a few minutes of running. But it does indicate that the red lightening bolt is not only related to the throttle body (as the manual says). So check you coolant!!
my chrysler 300 2006 model, 3.5l has the engine management light and red lightning bolt. it wont start but but if you put a live from terminal to fuse it starts, ive checked ignition switch and looks ok. any ideas of the problem thanks dave
in most cases the red lightning bolt is caused by a issue with the throttle body, so maybe look into that. try getting the codes read and list up what it says or google search the codes.
How your injectors did you check those out
Bushman 2014 chrysler 300 I had lightining bolt coming up on dash car would not start ,solved problem by moving gearshift ,ibelive it had something to do with park sensor
I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with the same issues, I checked for codes and had no pending codes or anything stored, the red lighting bolt kept flashing on my dashboard intermittently, the car would just go into limp mode out of no where, I ended up replacing the PCM and it solved the issue.
I agree with AceAustin i had same problem lighting bolt, car would go into limp mode. sometimes car ran fine once it would reach 4000 RPM it would bog down wouldn't pick up speed lighting bolt would come on. got a great diagnostic guy. showed me on his computer what was going on. replaced gas pedal. runs great. hope it helps anyone with problem I had. M.R.
Hey guys, I had the same issue with the car going into limo mode with the lightning bolt on. I also have a p0129 code. Any chance just changing out the map sensor will fix the problem?
I just got done looking my 07 magnum 3.5l over to diagnose all of the problems posted by others that I'm having and found the gasket around the egr tube was badly damaged. Going to replace it with a new one and hopefully that will fix the problems.
I have a 3500 Cummings, red lighting bolt came on and check engine light,except car died while driving. code showed mass airflow sensor, I replaced that it started up. Then died again. Had googled and found somewhere that they replaced the brake switch so I figured why not and lighting bolt went off. Mechanic wanted the charge me 1600.00 for changing engine wire harness and said it might not fix
Hi, not sure if anyone is still answering on here. But I just paid $1000 at the chrysler dealership because when that red lightning bolt comes on (sometimes it comes on sometimes it doesnt) whenever I come to a stop it stalls out. ONLY when I stop does my car shut off. I paid the dealership to replace the PCM just to have my car still want to shut off at stops. Anyone know what is causing this? They also replaced Cam and Crankshaft position sensor.
just stumbled across this problem, had me chasing my tail.. was a vacuum leak on the EGR pipe, use a piece of hose like a stethoscope and listen for hissing while car is running
I had this same problem but I got it fix I had red light bolt on dash car would drive slow or shut off well my mechanic said I had some bad wires some where around engine that had melted in burnt causing the car to go in limp mode I replaced the wires in my battery in it fix the problem it has something to do with ur wires around engine
ETC came on a few months back on my wife. I came home from work and it wasnt there anymore. Today the light came back. After allowing it to warm up it has gone away. I replaced the PCM within the last 4-5 months. Could the issue be battery related??
I have 2 Chrysler 300c’s have this issue and both times the coolant was low. Other than the lightning bolt, no other dash lights were illuminated. After adding coolant, the light has not returned. Check your coolant before throwing pants at these cars
Please help I know this is long but I am trying to get screwed over by the dealership I bought a Chrysler 300c 2013 mid September I had problems with it starting on occasions probably weekly sometimes I would just have to keep pushing the button til it started I then had a message come on the dash for an oil change so I took it to my mechanic as my contract says nothing about having my car serviced elsewhere a few days after I got it back I had the engine light came on then the red thermometer and it started beeping at me then the temperature gauge dropped to cold and the red lightning bolt came on and the car drove OK I drove it an HR home n had to drive to n from work for a couple days then I called the dealership n as I was at the front of the dealership the car stalled just locked up I couldnt move the gear stick I couldn't turn it off but it wouldn't budge steam started coming From Underneath the bonnet and then the boot lid wouldn't close which happened a fair bit it was dragged into the dealership they at first told me my mechanic put the wrong oil in it and then they said he put the right oil in it and then said the service damaged the starter motor which was a problem shown in the previous history of the car this car so they repaired that this has had two recalls for the alternator and the last time this car was in the shop prior to me buying it was because it broke down and wouldn't start they had problems with the car soon after buying it brand new obviously why they sold it... I now have the dealership telling me that they need to replace the engine oil cooler and oil filter and oil I was first told I have to pay 1250 for the repairs as it was my mechanics fault for not putting the cap tightly on the radiator I do have a dated and time stamped photo of underneath the bonnet for insurance purposes by my panel beater as I was sold a car with bald tyres n in the wet I then slid into another car only cosmetic damage barely noticeable but I have this photo I have refused to pay for the repairs as it should be covered under warranty they have told me to go to fair trading otherwise pay then they have come back to me with the exact same repairs and upped the cost to 4500 which is a lot more expensive than the original 1250 but they've told Me I need to cover 1000 the service manager Also accidentally let slip that there is a transmission problem and that harrier warranty doesn't cover that but he has not added it to the list of repairs. I'd appreciate any feedback on this situation I want to have as much mechanical knowledge as possible to stand my ground with these guys
Ive had the same issue, haf my throttle body replaced then my lights popped back up. They told me i had a air leak, the replaced a gasket. Now both times my car went limpmode. Now today light came on, runs okay what could be the issue now
Not sure if anybody is still on this thread, I’ve been following y’alls advice and recently replaced the cam sensor. Unplugged battery for about an hour. It did shut off on me a time after that but has been running much better since. Worth a shot guys! Taking my car to work with me tomorrow to see how it does 2006 Chrysler 300 3.5L
I have a Chrysler 300c 2006 its shutting off while driving and while parked I have replaced the tbc the cam and crank shaft sensor I replaced the fuse box under the hood I took it to Chrysler dealer have it reprogrammed and it's still doing the same things been 8 months now I dont know what else to try please help 334 740 5239 Alabama
If you have taken the intake off it's possible the o ring was damaged or not seated properly on the egr tube on the back of the intake. I had similar problems. Replace the o ring and all my problems went away.
Yes I replaced the o ring on tbc it's still doing the same thing while driving its starting shutting down the red lightning bolt and check engine light and all the dashboard lights the RPM gauge goes up and down looks to be and electrical problem then when parked it will just shut down like you turned it off with key I dont think it's the pcm because it runs very good until this happens
It's a 2006 Chrysler 300c hemi 5 7
The only code it will show is loss contact with pcm no reason why
I was having the same issue as most of u with my 05 chrysler 300 2.7 everytime I had the codes ran they would pull up something different and I'd throw more parts at it. Finally took it by a muffler shop to see if it was the cats and he looked at it and said more than likely not and I prolly had a vaccumm leak under the plenum so I took brake cleaner around all the vaccumm lines he told to check and it did seem like a leak around the plenum so I bought a new gasket set for it. It comes with upper and lower gaskets. The lower ones u have to take the piece that the plenum mounts to off to get to, dont worry not as hard as u may think and there is a very good video on it on youtube, I recommend if u take the plenum off to replace both sets of gaskets while u have it off. Also since I had the plenum off I went ahead and took the egr valve off and gave it a shake and sure enough it rattle and you could actually see pieces moving inside. So I bought a new on and put that and the gaskets on as well as cleaning everything under the plenum. As story short $5 bottle of brake cleaner, $3 roll of shop towels, $15 egr valve, and $12 gasket set and my car is running prolly better than it has in 6 months or so