I'm due for my 12month inspection for my 2011 Elantra and the dealer wants $400.00

25

Asked by Oct 20, 2012 at 11:59 AM about the 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I'm due for my 12month inspection for my 2011 Elantra. The dealer wants $400.00 for the F&R brake service, which he says is taking them apart and cleaning them. We have 7,400km on the car. I'm thinking for $400.00, I could probablly get new brakes. (Also included is the tire rotation & wheel alignment, oil change,ect..
Also, regarding the oil changes, we do it every 6 months using Quaker state synthetic, so the oil change would be deducted from the $400.00.
How exactly, does one tell when the brakes need to be replaced/looked at? Does this cleaning that the dealer wants to do a good deal?
Any info as to how I should proceed with this is greatly appreciated.

5 Answers

Sounds to me, without addressing your specifics, you are getting screwed if you allow that. That's what? 4,000 miles. something like that? Your need new brakes like you need a hole in the head. Unless you drive around with your foot on the petal.. Go to another dealer.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
8,165

no, pending driving style, if u need brakes already, u need a transmission also, hahaha, to determine if the pads are needed, if you remove the wheel, you can see the pads, measured in millimeters, there is a chart as to what is good, safe, and danger. does the pedal pulsate or vibrate when the brakes are applied, or a squueaking sound, or a brake indicator light on the dash? and no the "FLUSH", is the most largest waste of money in the industry.....cleaning them, go get a $4. can of Brake Cleaner and spray the rotor through the wheel, thats all they do to CLEAN them. note : Don't use synthetic if it doesn't call for it.....Hyundai is a basic machine, to "think you are doing better" can hurt it also....just regular oil. an alignment usually around $80. or so, if the tires are not worn out unevenly, or the car doesn't pull to one side or the other, or you didn't hit anything to think you need one, why get one? rotations are simple, and USUALLY COMPLIMENTARY anyway!!!!!!!again I do not know where it is you are going, but in the financial state everyone seems to be, the dealerships are trying more than ever to find work to do, they live off of your lack of knowledge or common sense....feel free to message me or David (above), before throwing money away...(personally I would save the money for the transmission that should go out in the next 2-3 years) as that has always been Hyundais' weakness....hope i helped

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

John hit it right on. That car only has 4,700 miles on it and if you need brakes there is something terribly wrong, unless like I said before you drive with your foot on the petal. When you take the wheels off, measuring them like John said is fine, but is they look like they are, say, 3/8 inch or 9 -10 mm they are fine. look at the rotors, if you see blue and brown colors the rotors are scorched and need to me machined down, within legal specs, or replaced. And/or the pads could be glazed, making them slick and reducing the friction necessary. The pad is the thing between the rotor and calipers, you can not tell if they are glazed without taking them off, and as inexpensive as they are if you take them off put on new ones. A pulsating brake pedal is normal and expected in a panic stop, anti-lock. But at NO other time. Do they fade and you have to push harder when stopping? Not good if so. Dealers have a tremendous overhead, I will concede that, but $100 an hour is not out of the ordinary: they will prey on you to pay for the donuts in the waiting room. I need no further redundant writing on what John posted, including feel free either of us, (we are happy to help) message me..look on to of the page and click "my account" an follow prompts. Your car call for 5-20 oil. No need to spend $7 a quart on Mobil1 or any other expensive synthetic, sure the are better oils that others but any motor oip sold in the US must meet strict standards..however I don't mean buy the cheapest crap you can find either. And Brian, when I explain some things like you don't know jackS, I mean no offense. I do not mean to suggest you are anything but smarter than I am, some folks just don't know. cars. Your tires should look new. If there is uneven wear at less than 5k, if you hit a curb or something that will knock it out, and lie like hell and get an alignment and new tire under warranty. Good luck my friend

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Want to add: john is correct about flushing being about the biggest waste of money, with maybe one other thing: removing the film off of headlights, or replacing the lens. My dealer charges $110 to "bring back to new", and all they do is wipe it with 50 cents worth of a chemical, takes 10 minutes tops. Hey, a guy's gotta make a living. eh?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
8,165

the headlights can be sandblasted, or they use a special pad on a drill.......You can do it for (about $6.) and 20 minutes of time....if headlights are plastic, and discolored.......Crest Baking soda and peroxide toothpaste, and a dish sponge, (not brillo- but the srub thing on one side), and no joke, rub the toothpaste in, and rub each lens for 5 or so minutes, you wont believe it works....

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

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