On my 2011 f 150 the daytime dash llights will not turn off after key is removed and doors locked. How do I fix this as it runs down my battery

Asked by Aug 21, 2014 at 07:26 AM about the 2011 Ford F-150 Lariat Limited SuperCrew

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Started with a dead battery and then boosted it off and ran fine. Noticed when i parked it
at end of day the day time dash lights were still on several hours after I pulled key and
locked it.

137 Answers

35,025

That feature is programmed into the ecu. Try disconnecting the battery for about a half hour. That might reset the computer.

5 of 5 people found this helpful.
Best Answer Mark helpful

That did the trick. I am glad I did not have to start fooling around with a lot of electric parts. Thanks for the answer.

Ok, I stand corrected, this did not fix problem. When I crank truck the dash lights and little blue limners stay on even when turning off head lights. When I turn off motor, remove key and lock doors the blue limners turn off after a few seconds but the white numbers on dash stay on. I am afraid this will run down my battery overnight. Any thoughts?

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35,025

GERRRRR :>( How long dothe white #`s stay on? Do they ever shut off? Are the lights partly shutting off? GERRRRR.

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The white numbers stay on all the time now. Just on dash, not center console or gear shift. That is what is running my battery down. Thinking about just taking it to ford house and see what they say today.

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35,025

Yeah its Ford time. Did anything change when you did the battery trick? If so do it again. If not, yeah its

Going to try one more time just to make sure. Then to Ford house.

Ok, took it to Ford House but they didn't have enough time today to test and also wanted 100.00 just for hooking it up. Said most damage could be computer replacement at 1000.00 or so. I also noticed the remote start did not work either. So no I am also thinking computer. I think I will put a master key under bumper and just turn it off every night. Cheaper that way.

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35,025

Let me know how that works out. B T W. is that a after market remote start?

No aftermarket. It came with the truck.

35,025

So what did Ford say/do other than take your money.

60

Hey, I'm just wondering if you managed to work out a solution to your problem. I have a 2012 Fx4 Ecoboost with 76,000km/47,000mi that has started to do the same thing. A buddy first mentioned it to me when he noticed it stopping by and said they were on. I had seen it once or twice more then it killed the battery. I've since been pulling the fuse every night and replacing it in the mornings but I don't really feel like doing this all winter long. I'm just hoping for an idea of what it might be before taking it to Ford and having them waste my time and money now that my warranty has just rolled and end up getting gassed for who knows how much $$. Any idea would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

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I gave up and took mine to ford house. About $1400.00 and 4 days later they replaced the instrument cluster.

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35,025

OWCH! :~(

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So my truck went into Ford today to have the brakes done and I asked if their tech could also look at and diaog what could be this problem with my dash lights not turning completely off. They came back to me within a couple hours saying that it was a faulty connection in the shifter mechanism (I have the console shift) and that it would be covered under the extended warranty and replaced this afternoon. I will keep you informed as to whether this remedies the problem for me or if we continue to have gremlins but maybe this is a cheaper repair than having to replace the instrument cluster completely if someone else is having to buck up for parts and labour if anyone else is still having these kind of problems. Thanks again for your help

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I'm also curious because my husband has had the same problem on his 2012 F150....for over 5 MONTHS!! At 1st he just let it go because it wasn't happening all the time but eventually he was waking up to a dead battery. Into the shop (a local mechanic) it went for 2 & a half weeks....they claimed they looked at everything & then eventually they said it was fixed. He picked it up, paid them, brought it home, then as soon as it got dark outside we realized the dash lights were still on. He decided to just disconnect the battery each night but that got to be a pain to reconnect each morning as the weather got colder. Back to the shop, 8 days later they said it was fixed....it wasn't. He took it back & they just put a new battery in & said "the dash lights didn't stay on for them". That was yesterday & yes, the dash lights are still on. Not sure what to do, where to take it, how much it's going to cost. We are about to just sell the damn thing.

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I had the same problem with my 2012 f-150 found out it was the lower shift modulator, "ford has a fix it fact sheet on the problem they sent out in 2011 to all dealerships

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I took mine to shop and they charged me about 1500 to replace insturment cluster and they also said they needed to replace a shifter switch that kept remote start from working. Makes me wonder if I really needed the instrument cluster. The bill said the shifter switch was only about 150.00

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I had the same problem with a ford econoline van and I slammed the brake while it was off, in park, and that fixed the light problem. Today I had the same problem with a ford F-150, so I slammed the break down, then pulled it back up. Problem fixed.

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Thanks nate the great!! My 2011 FX4 has been doing this for a long time now and I could never figure out why and I just read the answer from Nate the great above and it actually worked. I went in my truck and slammed my foot down on the break and got out my truck and locked it and the guage lights were off! Thanks bro, your check is in the mail!! ;)

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I just started with this light problem. I have a 2013 F-150 I will try the brake deal and let you know .

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6,625

Ford tech here, the most probable cause is the shifter park ckt is showing open. its a switch on the column or the shifter assy in the console. The remote start requires that the truck see's a park signal to start. The park switch is directly connected to the cluster and gives a ground to turn off the lights.

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I just recently started to have the same problems in my 2011 F150. Ford tech, you refer to a switch. Is that something I can locate and turn off? The shifter is in the console.

6,625

You will have to take the console apart a bit to get to the wiring connector for the shifter. Unplug it and if the light goes off replace the shifter assembly. The switch is built into the base and is not serviceable unfortunately.

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c3245 @shifter rh side of console under shifter trim pin 3 green wire harness side green wire goes to pin 7 at the cluster connector also green wire. unplug @ shifter and give it a jumpper to ground. if lights go off then replace shifter. I dont have my original repair order right now to guide me on how i did it.

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Thanks! I can't do that myself but I can at least be knowledgeable about the problem when I take it into the shop.

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so i have exact same problem on my 2011 raptor started doing this 3 days now cluster light on all the time and remote start will to work would i half to change the safety neutral switch then??

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2011 FX2 SCREW I have the same problem. Is there a TSB or something we can reference to help troubleshoot.?

Ford said it was the dash. Turned out they also put in a new shifter. I am guessing they just figured out it was a shifter problem after they charged me for dash. Only about 1500 difference. Another thing that was going on with mine was the remote starter would not work either. This fixed both.

6,625

Pete, I went around in circles with the ford tech hotline and got them to admit that there isn't a tsb or procedure in the service manual. Just use logic and the wiring diagram for the circuit CET52 transmission park detect. If its a floor shifter it is not serviced separately.

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I just discovered the same problem with my 2012 F-150. The white gauge lights won't go out, and the remote start doesn't work. I tried the brake thing with no luck. I guess I get to go to the Dealer tomorrow.

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I have the same problem with my 2012 f150. It started after the battery died and got boosted. It seems that my lock cylinder is loose and is easily tripped on and off. (My power seat goes back and forth to its setting point with just a 1/32 of a turn). I think my problem might be there. I will replace it and let you guys know if it worked for me once I try it.

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Alex you door lock cylinder is held in by a clip mounted in the door handle assembly. if it was broken into through the dr door then you will most likely need to replace the handle to secure the lock cylinder correctly.

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My 2011 f150 dash lights just started staying on. I pushed slam the brake and it goes off. What do I need to replace?

6,625

Dhill357, Which lights are staying on? All of them or just the ones behind the speedo and tach. Your truck may be resetting the park switch when the shifter interlock is activating.

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Just the white lights behind the gauges. My truck has been at the dealer for a week now, because they ordered all new gauges even though I told them the it probably won't fix the problem. They also found a fault code pertaining to the remote start ( since it went out at the same time). They replaced a switch hooked to the shift lever in the console to (hopefully) fix that.

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Hey Guy. How would someone go about resetting the park switch?

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I'm not sure if the 2 are related but I had the driver side speaker replaced in my 2011 F150 Ecoboost 2 weeks ago. Dead battery a few days later. Dealer said my battery failed, sold me a new one. Dead battery a few days later again. Dealer tested for parasitic draw, none found. Dealer kept it overnight, dead again the next day. They recharged the battery, kept it overnight and it started the next morning. I brought it home, dead the next day. Seems to be an intermittent draw. Finally, this evening, I noticed that the instrument panel cluster (IPC) lights stayed on (the blueish ones and the dome lights turned off, the whitish ones on the IPC stayed on). My remote starter works fine. In fact, I remote started the truck, no problem, inserted the key, put in in drive, put it back in park, then turned it off, waited for all the lights to shut off and they did, including the white IPC lights. I'm lost, but this entire post has me thinking a lot.

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Hey Guy I'm having same problem 2013 F150 white lights staying on and killing battery. i took apart shifter assembly and unplugged wire harness and white light still on. But then you talk about jumping wires on pin 3 and pin 7 but i don't have green wires at switch they are red,black,and blu. can you elaborate in more detail? i thought if you just unplugged harness it would turn light off if that was problem.

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6,625

pm sent

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I just got my truck back after 5 weeks! I showed the service guy at the dealer these threads about this problem, but would not use any info until I went in and demanded my truck back. After replacing the gauge cluster, they finally replaced the entire gear shift mechanism- part number BL3Z*7210*CB Gear Shift. That fixed it. It also took care of the faulty Remote Start.

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I forgot to mention, that of course replacing the gauge cluster did not fix the problem. They had to call Ford Tech's in Michigan to figure it out. Thank god it is under warranty.

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The repair for this cluster light staying on and no remote start with the floor shifter is to replace the shifter part # BL3Z*7210*CB. Canam1, I am a Ford dealer tech and hate that you have had to go through so much grief, I've shared as much as I can with anyone that asked for help here regarding this shifter issue without breaching corporate rules that prohibit some information. I've seen on the ford tech message boards (where all of the ford employees can find this info) that we as technicians are sharing the same concerns as our customers and also sharing what the proper repair is. We have let the engineers know through the technical assistance hotline that there is not a dedicated diagnosis for this problem. They are aware of all the unhappy customers and guiding those that ask for help to the correct repair finally. Unfortunately I can't share the communication I've had with Ford regarding this and trying to explain the diagnosis by typing it in my own words without the aid of everyone else having the wiring diagrams I have access to in front of them is a very difficult. Thank you for sharing the part number so that others may know what to get in the future. Canam1 please don't stop here, you can help many more people out if you will follow up with the Ford customer service rep that is working with your dealer. Fill out the survey that Ford will send you about this repair. PLEASE have pity on the poor mechanic and service writer that are almost as upset that your truck wasn't fixed with the first round of parts they put in it. (replacing the cluster is a computer programing nightmare) At least it finally got fixed and that service department will never get this one wrong again.

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I was charged and told it was insurment cluster. Then they told me it was also shifter. Got charged for both. I did not see any sign of the cluster being changed. But what can I do

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ddoson pm sent

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i'm going back to a Chevorlet trucks

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Thanks Guy! Yeah, I am a pretty easy going guy, but I am a contractor, and my truck is my lifeblood. I was frustrated because no one at the dealer cared to look at all the info I found on the problem on this forum until made them look at it with me. They were also supposed to look into an occasional rough idle on my ecoboost and why I am averaging only 10.6 mpg, but I wanted my truck back so bad, I took it when this problem got resolved.

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canam, The early eco-boost's have issues with rough idle and misfire under light to moderate acceleration caused by spark plugs mostly.

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Guy I'm having a similiar problem on a 2013 xlt with column shift. Dash lights coming on randomly drawing down battery. Haven't had battery go completely dead yet but have had a battery saver code come on in radio also in lcd screen in dash. Would you have the part number for the column shift and is it serviceable unlike floor shifter?

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Chad, the park sensor/brake interlock is a possible cause on your truck. It is located on the inside of the column about about halfway down and under the plastic cover and is a serviceable part, base part number (3Z719). I've not personally seen it go bad myself but have heard that it is serviced separately in the column style shifter. The picture in the workshop manual shows it kind of under the shift lever. Now to the diagnosis, do the blue dashes surrounding the gauges come on as well as the white background lighting? Do any other lights at all come on when this happens? Any other lights than the white background lighting would indicate that there is another issue. Let me know and we can move forward from there. Guy

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Guy Just the dash lights in speedo tach area blue outer for sure I'm not sure on the white but I'm assuming yes on those to. No other lights just those. Key has been removed. The battery has tested good and charging system is working properly. If the truck sits for a couple days with this happening it draws the battery down enough to get the message that appears in radio and dash. The truck still has started for me and it takes a little driving to get the messages to clear. I'm assuming that if I'd let it sit any longer the battery would go completely dead.

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Guy you are the man just replaced shifter assembly BL3Z-7210-CB about $230.00 and phantom white light has gone out after 3-weeks trying to figure out none of Ford guys seem to know this. i have a 2013 F-150 Plantinum. Youtube will show you how to take console apart and when you get shifter assembly all you have is 4 bolts and shifter cable assembly to pull apart. feel free to call me with any questions 314-605-6431 Paul people thank Guy for this one or you would be spending $1500.00 and a bunch of weeks with no truck

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I have a 2012 f150 that will drain the battery over night and have noticed that after driving any distance at all that the shift indicator will show everything but park when this happens while parked I can turn off the key then restart the truck hen it will show the p for park lit up. If I go through this procedure every time I'm going to exit the truck for the day then it will not drain the battery, If I forget the result is a dead battery every time. Does any of you think that the shifter assembly will solve the issue I am having with my truck?

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I believe it is your shifter assy as there is a switch built into handle and tells truck when its in park and that whats going bad. i believe mine went bad and could not mess with handle to get it going. i don't know if the 2012 has remote start but the 2013 do and that would not work either because it was thinking it was not in park. feel free to call me with any questions. 314-605-6431 Thanks, Paul

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@ Trout, yessir sounds like it.

Same Problem with the white tech lights not turning off. 2011 F150 with 82K miles. My battery has drained twice before noticing the lights staying on long after I turned the car off and locked it. I do not have a remote start (just lock) and my shifter is on the column. What is necessary for me to get this taken care of properly. I'm the second owner and do not believe I'm under any warranty.

6,625

Ed there is a park sense switch in the shifter column that is serviceable separately. If when the truck is in park, headlights off you can pull back on the shifter lever lightly the white lights behind the speedo and tach come on then it is likely the root of the problem. It's basic part number is 3Z719 and is about $180. I will check tomorrow and get the actual cost and full part number.

Thanks Guy, so I went out and did what you requested and heard a clicking when I pulled lightly on the shifter. It did not, however, change any of the lights, pro or con in any different situation. I tried a few... If it is a sensor in the steering column, what do you think made it go out? I find it interesting that all these folks had the same thing happen at relatively the same time? I appreciate you looking into it, I tried the brake slam fix too, with no avail.

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Ed the part # is FL3Z-3Z719-A and is $102.13 plus tax where I work. You are dealing with circuit cet52 green wire that goes from the shifter switch in the column to the cluster. with the connector unplugged you will use a fused jumper wire to ground cet52 harness side to mimic the park signal. If the lights go out it is the problem.

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As far as I know this is not common enough to do a full recall or any other action that would admit a problem with the product yet. Yes it would be nice if FOMOCO would revise the online workshop manual or put something in the oasis (Fords online vehicle support for dealers) about this, but of all the thousands of trucks out there the percentage of faulty vehicles is rather small. This is a pic of the column.

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Thank you Guy! Much appreciation. I'll let you know how it goes.

Just adding to the numbers, my 2011 F150 Lariat just started keeping the cluster lights on. I am going to go with the gear shifter BL3Z-7210-CB. It just sucks that Ford has not said anything about it!

I am having same problem. I replaced the floor shifter with a used one from a 28000 mile truck, but the lights are still on. The park indicator doesn't light up but I have a green turn indicator light on also. I checked turn and park lamp sockets and didn't see anything wrong.

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I am having the same issue. 2013 f150 Xlt. When I go check the truck I find just the white dash lights on. They go off when I lock it but I'm not sure how long before they pop back on. As mentioned earlier when I drive the truck and go to park I can't get the orange P light to come on no matter how many times I shift back and fourth. I have to turn it off and then back on and then the park light is orange as it should be. I haven't tested it yet to see if that holds up over night. Hopefully it does and will atleast help me get by short term. I also have the shifter that is built into the steering colum not the floor shifter in the center console. I just bought this truck 3 days ago. No warranty and I'm 5 hours from the dealer. Hopefully they will make it right it not I'll have to try what has been suggested. Reguardless if they fix it or I do I just wanted to thank the guys in this thread who contributed to diagnosing this problem. It looks like it's going to save me a ton of headache.

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So if I order FL3Z-3Z719-A which seems to be the part to solve my problem. Do you think a guy like myself with average everyday mechanical skills could take this on themselves? I really don't know much about the wiring. All I could do is pay attention to what I am taking apart and put it together with the new part the same way. Or should i just take it in to get fixed? After spending 26k out the door on a truck, I just really don't feel like putting in a bunch more money. This issue literally happened the morning after I bought the truck.

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I pulled the panel off a bit and I am assuming this is the part I am replacing (circled it in picture). Doesn't quite look like the pictures the part # shows so I wanted to double check. If that is it, doesn't look like it would be to big of a deal to install. Although it does look like I will need to remove a lot of panels in order to have room to work on it. Thanks!

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I ended up digging more into it and resolving my issue without replacing anything. In the steering column shifter the actuator is actually located under what I circled in the above picture. You must remove the bottom section of the plastic that wraps the column (3 socket screws on the bottom). Pretty easy. Once I did this I unplugged the wires going into the actuator and plugged them back in making sure I had a solid connection. This completely solved my issue so far. 2 days of plenty of driving and I haven't had a single issue. Before this the problem occurred 100% of the time (it wasn't hit or miss). I took my truck down some bumpy roads and drove it hard, put it into 4 wheel drive, anything I could do to see if I could possibly get it to flare back up. I'm not saying it won't eventually but it's nice to know that if it does I know for sure what it is and it does not look very difficult to replace on your own (Guy listed the proper part number above). I would be curious to know if unplugging it could have possibly reset that unit or if it was simply a connection issue. Anyway, I just wanted to share everything I have for anyone whoever has this issue and finds this thread. I know it saved me a ton of time!

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for future reference doe this need to be riveted back on shifter?

so not sure what I did I unplugged battery ... then plugged back .. then popped up center console cover and started playing around with wires to see if any were loose said ...f it .. reassembled and all of a sudden the lights went out and all was better so I guess that for one thing says its the switch .. so ill be ordering one soon ...

Thanks Appreciate it but I prefer to get direct from ford Nothing personal I don't know u I get a steep discount from ford locally

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http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc- emc-div/D2HW-C201M/SW721-ND/404504 link to the part you need

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thanks appreciated when the time comes ill get it direct from ford... ill pay 5.00 more to have OEM part, but I appreciate the help/link thanks

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The Omron switch is OEM

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Morter01, thank you for the switch! Guys, we read this entire forum post and ended up ordering the switch. My husband was able to replace it and everything works great now--no more white dash lights staying on in his 2012 F150! We called Ford and the service dept had no interest in hearing what we'd read here, so in order to avoid the chance of receiving an astronomically large bill from them, we called a mechanic. He was willing to replace our entire shifter for $480 ($380 for the shifter and $100 for the labor) but this DIY switch was the cheapest and therefore best option for us, at a mere $36. And it worked!! Loving the Internet this week. ;-)

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The switch the Rob posted is not correct. The "guts" of the switch are wired incorrectly. I bought one and the part numbers are not the same with the Ford switch. Morter01 has the correct switch. I bought one and it worked great! I'm glad to see that people are helping each other save money and stick it to Ford!

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I'm having the same problem. In need of the switch to repair my floor shifter.

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I have a 2013 150 Platinum and I am having the same issues with the white cluster light staying on now randomly draining the battery. So what you're saying is that part you are getting is eliminating having to pay 400 for a new shifter assembly?

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Ok,really hope this is it.I hate getting taken advantage of by the dealer.I never go to ford dealer If I can help it.thanks,placing my order with ya.

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Received my switch tdy,thanks morter01.I will keep you all posted.

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Morter 01, He is the answer to this problem!! I was having the white instrument cluster lights staying on and draining my battery as posted with my 2013 Ford Platinum. I ordered the part and received it in 3 days from him. The work was easy, the video helped immensely. When I took it apart and seen how worn the switch was,you can see it is a poor design from Ford, and his switch is the exact switch. It is no smoke and mirrors with this guy. If you want to avoid the nightmare of dropping off your vehicle trying to find another ride or a rental,paying heavy money like some of the posts have stated,so you can get to work or do whatever you need to do, you need to get with him on this part. I spoke to 10 dealerships or more, and random people on the street asking them questions if they had this problem and no one had the answer except morter 01.ALL HAIL MORTER 01.Thank you very much. There are still good people in this world,and it's MORTER 01.

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Another successful repair thanks to Erik (Morter 01). Saved me a few hundred dollars by not having to replace the entire gear shifter. Took me about 30 minutes from start to finish and the truck is good as new! Very simple fix that anyone can DIY.

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Add me to the list of Morter 01 supporters! I was very skeptical as well, but figured I'd try spending $40 as opposed to the $500 several dealerships quoted to fix the problem. I'm not mechanically inclined, but by watching the video (which was a huge help) 2 hours later I was done. Thanks Morter!

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
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Same dash light problem with my 2011. Ordered the switch from morter01. Fast, easy ebay transaction, fast shipping. Installed the switch and bingo! Thank for saving me several hundred dollars

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Just checking in,nice to see people are having great results,like myself

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As you can see in the picture, my switch was pretty hammered. Button mushroomed and the plastic pin that keeps the switch from rotating was sheered off so the switch had rotated enough that the park pin wasn't even touching the switch.

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I to have this same issue with my battery draining bcuz of the white lights on instrument panel staying on or just turning back on after the doors are locked. I have a F150 2013. I took it to ford Sat, bcuz my husband said its still under warranty. I explained to the service man, & I asked if he had other ppl bring their truck in for this issue. He said no. I'm in Las Vegas. So I showed the service man this forum and what was the culprit. I'm emailing him this info which @morter01 found and the fix. I only hope I get my truck back the next day.

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Hope they don't try and charge you for the whole shifter assembly.remember $40 fixes the prob.

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Morter01 thanks man I ordered your switch last week and it fixed my dead battery issue. Saved me some money

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Does anyone know the part number this would be at ford for the switch or what it would be called?

I have a 2004 Ford F150 that is having the same issues , do you know of a switch that will work for mine? It has a column shifter. Please email to jackoserv@gmail.com

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I have the same problem, the white lights will not go off and it is killling my battery every morning. I have a 2014 f150 ecoboost. I might have to order from you morter01

I have a 2011 f150 limited lariat. The dash lights stay on and the key cant be removed from the ignition unless the battery is disconnected. Do you believe this switch could be the issue?

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I was going to order through Morter01, but figured that the Omron part # D2HW-C201M, costing only $6, was worth the try. It worked great. Morter01 is just trying to make money off of people who will not risk $6, and in return is making 700% profit. To top it off, ordering from E-Bay will cost you another $32 shipping! So... go with Morter01, and pay approx $80, or order through this link here for $6 plus US shipping. http://www.digikey.com/short/3bzqqn Up to you guys, but Morter01 is a going to rip you off.

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Dude you need to settle down. This guy has helped a ton of people save thousands of dollars. Me included. I bought the switch you mentioned and it ended up blowing fuses and would not work. It is not the same switch.... I bought one from Morter01 and compared the part numbers and they are different. Quit trying to blow smoke up his ass and actually try to help out other people rather than bashing on the forum.

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Yeah,what was that.morter one has done nothing but help a ton of people at a $40 cost,when it could have been well over a $1000.I called a half dozen dealers and not one knew what is causing this prob.but morter1 knew.positive info on this forum,your a little out of line to be bashing this guy whos done nothing but help.

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I just made an account because I can't believe what that guy said. I bought a switch from Morter01 a month ago and got it in 2 days. He helped me through the process and even walked me through the install on the phone. Where do you get off trashing someone on the forum who has done a ton of work to try and help the better of the cause. If he makes a few bucks on the side, good for him. I would gladly pay him for his time alone because he found the problem, fixed it, and helped me and others do the same. He deserves it. Just because you found a way to redneck rig it doesn't mean that it is right. I give it a week and you're going to start to have problems. Stick with the CORRECT switch from Ebay and do it right. Stepping off of soap box....

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Morter01(Eric) Thank you so much for the help! I received my switch yesterday, took 2days. I called a mechanic on Craig's list, he watched your video and installed it for me in about 45min for $100. This fix saved me lots of Money and time!! It worked like a charm! The dash board light is off now and my automatic starter works again!! Thanks a million

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

Morter01 where is this youtube video of you placing this switch please?

Guy and Paul had great information. I want to write this up as an additional piece of information: Symptom/Diagnosis = Dash Lights (Faint white lights illuminating speedometer, RPMs, and gauges remains on after car is parked and shut off and remote start is no longer working. Fix: 2013 FX2 here. I ordered Part Number BL3Z-7210-CA and replaced it. Very very easy to replace. Please see video to find out how to remove the console plastics to expose the gear shifter assembly to remove/replace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx2pETbNhCY Remove and replace the gear shifter assembly by removing the four bolts and the throttle cable. Once I plugged the new gear shifter assembly in the lights immediately shut off and the auto- start worked again.

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http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2HW-C201M/SW721-ND/404504 I've ordered these switches from digi-key and can tell you with out a doubt that they are the correct switch to repair the problem a little over $6 plus shipping. I'm not going to go so far as to say anyone is trying to take advantage of the situation but the name of the game here is saving money It is the right switch period...look for yourself be your own judge use what god gave you between your ears thank you for your time.

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another picture

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now you can judge for your self it's the same switch period and no fire no sparks no big foot or anything else replace the switch and it works fine I'm not in it to make money and at first all I wanted to do was inform people of another option if your going to order the switch from morter and install it your self the why not order it direct from the people that sale it to begin with $6 vs.$42 I can totally understand him trying to stand his ground by telling everyone that what I'm telling you is wrong but all you have to do is look at the pictures they speak for them selves or just call digikey and talk to them yourself 800-344-4539 like I said before use what god gave you between your ears

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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Trout where the hell do you get off coming on here and bashing Morter01 and all the work we have done as a forum. Morter01 has helped hundreds of people install these switches. He has called me personally to guide me through the install and I know he has done it for other people too. If you aren't going to contribute constructively or positively, then get the hell off of this forum. You have made no contributions to this forum so stop trying to run it.

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and as far as the factory switch being over loaded that's a bunch of horse hockey as well. the spring mechanism the locks the truck in park is a little to harsh on the switch and ends up waring it out over time. now for the last time it's all about money he charges $42 for the switch I bought mine for $6 the difference being $36 in his last post he said that he has sold over 300 $36 x 300 = $10800. do a little research folks look at dig-key site and you will see what I'm telling you is true not only that digi-key gives bulk discounts so my bet is he's not even paying the $6 that I paid

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$10800 would be more than enough reason to try and discredit me

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you know what your right lets see just how stupid people really are.......ok folks I've got a deal for you I just got in a shipment of the switches in and I'm saling them at a discounted price of just $39 with free shipping now let's just wait and see if any of these people are stupid enough to pay me $39 for the same switch that they can buy for them selves or do you think and the key word is think here folks that they will buy it for then selves being that they are smart enough to install it them selves I'm betting that they will call digi-key again folks digikey 800-344-4539

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open this picture and see for your self read the name on the switch

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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DUDE! Give it a rest. They are not the same switch. The outside of the switches may look the same, but it is whats on the inside that is different. You are an idiot. Go away!

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he has yet to show a picture of the switches he is supposed to be getting from Germany. If he does look for Omron on the switch and the numbers 1 over the black wire 2 over the blue wire and 3 over the red wire. my bet is he will try to post the opposite side of the switch which has no markings at all

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like I said $10800 more that enough reason to be defensive. pick up the phone folks use what god gave you call them. if you make the phone call you'll find out for your self 800-344-4539. and morter I'll expect to see pictures tomorrow if not sooner and if in fact you can produce a picture of the switch and it is built in Germany I will formally apologize and go away. but if you show a switch with Omron on it well then that switch is built in japan. I'm holding my breath

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Mortar I can't find the switch on eBay. Please send link. Thanks, Jedapo.

@morter01 can you send the link for the switch you have for sale? It is for the center console shift correct?

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Morter01 can we have the ebay listing. and also your video link

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crazy4pin you posted this pic of old and new switches.. Can you confirm if the new plug came from Morter01. Morter01 said thanks for the comment. I noticed later when the tit for tat started about where the switch came from Morter01 posted a switch without the obvious markings... i just need a switch so regardless of where it comes from i want to know who and where i can get one that will work. The ones with the obvious marking of Omron are from China. Has anyone actually bought these and can 100% confirm they work.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
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crazy4pin I have bought the Omron switches and they work fine as a matter of fact it was the direct replacement for the switch that came out of my truck buy it, install it, and your problems are over the rest of the crap that you read on here is smoke and mirrors. the switch that he sales works fine but your paying for it

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Paid $6 for the switch...installed....works like a champ! These forums are amazing and although I suck at posting stuff I really appreciate you guys that do! Best!

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
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Hey Jedapo, so you ordered the switch from digi-key ? Do you recall if it actually had the Omron markings. Thanks

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I ordered from digi-key and yes they are Omron switches they work fine it will be the same switch that is already in your truck

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what you will see when you take your console apart and get down to where see the switch is the inner working of the shifter and you will see that there is a piece of metal that locks in place in each position and is spring loaded. when you shift into park and let the shifter lock it's self in place the spring that drives this piece of metal in place to lock it is strong enough to slam into this little switch and over time takes it's toll on the switch to the point of failure. after you go through the trouble to make the repairs be conscious of how you shift into park it's very easy to get into the habit of holding onto the shifter all the way into park then gently release the locking mechanism rather than letting it slam into the little switch. when you take the old switch out and compare it to the new on you will see what I mean and it will make sense

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and I'm betting that Morter01 and weatherguy1978 are one and the same or really good friends. find it kind of odd that out of all of the people that he has sold these switches to that only 1 One guy has come to his defense

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sounds like to me that the people are waking up morter

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pictures speak volumes

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My headlamps stay on sometimes and drain my battery on my 2006 SCREW. Could it be the same switch in the steering column? TY

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2014-Ford-F150-F-150-Instrument-Cluster-Repair-Dash-Light-Staying-on-fix-/182501701543?hash=item2a7df2f7a7:g:YVkAAOSwo4pYg-KO&vxp=mtr comes with everything needed to make repairs. Bought it and worked awesome!

Has anyone found a video on installation for floor shifter? My dealer just ordered the shifter assembly at $320 ($290 from ford motor parts). I'm going to stop the order on Monday and fix it myself. I can take apart the console to get to the part, just wanna see if there is and video to make sure I fix the problem permanently for $6 digi part. Plus, I'm gonna find a new dealer after the overcharge.

Is the switch that has been pictured in this thread only for the console shifter? Is there a known fix for the column shifter? I have read the entire thread. I have taken the panels off of my shifter column and I do not see anything similar to the switch shown here with the 3 wires (red, blue, and black).

this switch is only for the floor shifter fix.

Thanks for posting all of this information. Bought the Omicron switch from Digi Switch and did the replacement this morning. The post on the old switch was broken so was making an inconsistent contact... Took 30 mins to splice in a new switch, works like a charm!

I just had this happen on my 2012 F-150. Like another post said when you put it in park the "P" does not turn orange. That is why the dash lights stay on. It thinks it is still in drive. I read another comment on here about unhooking the battery cable. That is what I have been doing until I can get it fixed. Autozone sells a battery discount lever that you can install. All you have to do is flip the lever over instead of unhooking the cable every time.

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When you put the vehicle in park (P will remain white). Turn off the engine but then simply turn the key back towards the start position (no need to go all the way though, no need to actually crank the engine) and the P should turn orange. That's the temporary fix. Then you can turn the key back and remove it and you should be OK. It worked for me anyway. Oh and by the way, the problem eventually went away. That kind of blew me away.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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By the way, you have to do this every time. It'll become a habit, trust me.

Thanks for the tip. I tried it and unfortunately it did not work for me. You would think they would do a recall on this.

trout_007 there are two "hook type" clips holding the switch in place. Do you just push those out of the way. I hated to push on them then brake them. Also do you just pull the 3 wire out where the connect and then push the new ones in?

after reading this thread I replaced just the switch as mentioned above. This is the link. https://www.digikey.com/product- detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2HW-C201M/SW721- ND/404504. This is the video I watched to take the console apart. https://youtu.be/Yx2pETbNhCY. After getting the console apart the switch itself popped out fairly easy. Where the blue and red wires went into the wiring harness I just cut and then spliced them together with the new wires and wrapped in electrical tape. Basically did the same with the black wire. For $10.77 with shipping and handling it's good as new. My "P" on the dash is now orange again. Thanks trout_007!!

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Had, researched and FIXED this problem. Easy fix at the end of the day. The problem is a $6.00 switch that is located on the passenger side underneath the gear shift center console. Your dash lights stay on, the P doesn't turn red when it's in park, can't remote start, and your battery drains and dies. You can buy the replacement part here: Mfg. (Omron Electronics) Part No. D2HW-C201MS , which you can buy at www.mouser.com 1. Put the parking brake on. Remove the center console trim piece (gently pull out and up on the sides), you'll have to shift to neutral to do this, which is why you wait to disconnect the battery. 2. Disconnect the battery 3. A trim piece that snaps into place by tabs front and back on the right side need to be gently removed so that you can reach the switch. You can see it but can't reach it until you move this trim piece about an inch up and out of the way.. 4. The switch just snaps into place, it's located at about 1 o'clock looking at the passenger side above the floorboard. It has red, black and blue wires. Gently push the two snaps that hold it in place and pull the switch out with needle nose pliers and a flat screw driver. 5. Cut the wires as close to the switch as possible. Splice the wires to the new switch. Pop it back in and gently tuck the wires in and out of the way of the gear mechanism. A small zip tie is helpful. 6. Reassemble everything, connect the battery and you should be good to go!

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Here is the side view etc.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
10

I did order the eBay switch from rmracer27. It came with the switch, electric connectors and zip ties. It had great step-by-step instructions with color pictures. And it cost me $72 including $32 next day postage (he didn't mark this up unreasonably). I'd just rather pay $6 for the switch than $40. Regardless, it beats the hell out of the dealership.

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