Just went over a bump in my 1995 Cadillac Deville. Driving fine, but when I press on the brake, there is this grinding noise and this weird vibration on pedal immediately when braking.

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Asked by May 03, 2015 at 06:55 PM about the 1995 Cadillac DeVille Concours Sedan

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I know that brakes is the obv answer since it drives fine and the problem happens when i brake but also, the steering wheel jerks back into a certain place after stopping completely and letting go of it. am fully aware of the fact that it is not possible to fully diagnose a cars problem without looking at it. However, I am flat broke until I get my next check-in 2 weeks.

I'm just trying to see what POSSIBLY could be the problem-so I can guage what kinda damage-both physically & financially-I might be looking. Honestly, any sincere help would be so greatly appreciated. Again, I've been to sites where I see wise-asses answer with "we can't tell you what your problem is without looking for a car" followed by "go to a mechanic/shop."
And I am just someone with minimal knowledge of the working parts of automobiles and am just trying to get some ideas of what the issue may be-nothing exact. I know there are genuine people out there who actually take the time to help people like me, and I'm hoping that someone like that can give me the time of day answer my question as direct and kind as possible. Srry I wrote so much, just really stressing out and thinking I might have destroyed my brakes, suspension system and my front end alignment.

7 Answers

7,975

Inspect the brakes, sounds like metal to metal, worn brake pads against the rotor.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I just went to the store and a test ride to see if alignment was off at all. It's making the vibration noise and feel when I brake. But when I'm not pressing the brake, I hear this almost electrical sound in the dash/under the hood. The closest thing I can compare it to is something sorta like a electric short circuit type noise. Which is scaring me because I'm afraid the whole computer system might be shot. A side note, when I pulled into my driveway, the left headlight-looking at the car came on, the high beam signal on the dash was lit, and the brake lights were on in the back. I was gonna unplug the battery, but tried pumping the brakes a few times and the lights shut off. The care only cost me $1000, but it was $ 1000 I really didn't have, and now thinking about what this is gonna cost is stressing me out beyond belief. I'm scared it might be totaled. Which wont be covered because It was due to a bump in the road. I am obviously gonna get it checked out, but the whole not knowing is bugging me out. And thank you for your quick response too, Camaro

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

We don't treat people that way...except when we are put in a position where people post "My car won't start" ---and that's all--- instead of explaining the problem as you did. Anyway, Camaro Collector knows what he's talking about. Rotors could be warped and you are looking at $200-$300

7,975

The brake lights staying on is probably a worn brake light switch down on the brake pedal which may also be the electrical noise your hearing A brake light switch is between $10 and $20

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Haha, I know there are mostly good people who help answer questions like mine. Thank God the rude people out there in the world are in the minority. I left a 10 page essay for you guys, but it was only because I wanted to give everyone as much info as possible in regards to my issue. Just to try to give a better idea of what is happening. I'm gonna have it looked at, but it was a bad event on top of a bad day, and the whole thing has my hypertension at an all-time high. I was already dealing with a 'service ride control' indicator light on my dash, which I read was probably related to struts, and my brakes were just starting to squeak the tiniest fraction of a bit when i came to a stop. So I figured I had to get brakes anyways. Hopefully, this rough ride over a bump just did more damage to them and nothing major to something else. I mean I wasn't speeding, just 20mph, and the car just had a rough landing. Anyways, again, sorry for the rant, and I really appreciate the answers.

10

Alright, well, I'm def feeling a little better now knowing that my issues dont necessarily mean that the computer is fried, my suspension is shot, the CV joints and alignment are gone, on top of needing a brake job. I realize I won't know the extent of the problem til' it is looked at, and it very well may end bad. It still feels better seeing that all my symptoms dont have to mean that I totally destroyed all of the above like I was convinced lol. Thanks again, for the help, i might actually be able to get some sleep tonight. I just got my license back-which was hell- after not having it for four yrs. And barely scraped the money for this car; so the thought of it being completely totaled or me having to put more money into it than i actually paid was giving me heart palpitations.

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Just for future reference-in referring to the problemsh I was having; if anyone else has many of the same issues I explained, check for a "traction disabled" or an ABS indicator light on the dash. It is a problem with the Anti-Lock Braking system and most likely means that you need a new ABS control module-which could run you up to $1100. As for me, when it first started happening, my brakes would vibrate every time I pressed the pedal & I would hear the buzzing sound.. Now, a few days later, it seems to be happening alot less. And so since it is a 1995 with 128,000 miles, I am just gonna run the car into the ground. But should somebody else run into the same problem with a newer model than a 95' Deville, they may wanna do different. But as far as myself, I refuse to put $1100 into a $1800 car. Again thanx for helping me to try & figure out what the problem is

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