bleading the brakes

Asked by Feb 02, 2013 at 01:54 PM about the 2007 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCrew

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I was wondering the steps and/or order to bleed brakes after shoe/pad replacment?

6 Answers

Place the vehicle on jack stands on a flat surface. If you don't have enough stands you can do one wheel at a time. Remove the wheels. Syphon off the old brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood. Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid (don't reuse old fluid as it holds moisture and will corrode your brake system). Start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder, usually rear wheel, passenger side. Pull off the rubber cover on the bleeder valve. Attach the aquarium air line to the nipple on the bleeder. Have your assistant pump the brake pedal up and down 3-4 times, then hold the pedal down fairly hard. Open the bleeder, let fluid flow out through the air line into a waste container. (preferably a clear bottle so you can see any air bubbles escaping the system). When the fluid stops and your assistant's foot hits the firewall (brake pedal all the way down), close the bleeder valve immediately! Go to step #5 above and drain more fluid out of the bleeder valve until clean fluid comes out. Check the master cylinder everytime and top it up as necessary. This procedure uses lots of fluid. Now move to the rear brake on the driver's side. Go to step #5 and repeat the same procedures above until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and no bubbles. Next is the front brake, passenger side, same procedure. Last is the driver's side front brake, same procedure. When finished check for any leaks, remount rubber covers on the bleeder valve nipples. Remount all wheels, re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving. Start vehicle and depress the brake pedal. It should feel much less spongy than before this procedure. If not, there is air in the system, start over. Bleed everything again.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Hi Dave don't forget to mention the solenoid problem and that it takes a special scan type tool to cycle the ABS system solenoids as it is not like the original or first ABS systems where you could actually bleed them under the hood, assuming you have ABS, LOL and this is a most read about the tool required as it needs to be bi-directional reader, not just telling you codes, but must be able to cycle the solenoid, http://www.techshopmag.com/issue/article.aspx?contentid=61795 had this in my file when I went hunting for the tool myself which I now have and no you can not borrow it..

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

Done Right, you don't have to bleed the brake lines!!! P.S. Regarding bleeding brakes: If this isn't done correctly and you have to slam on your brakes in order to safe your life and your families, well I hope all works out for you. This is a serious part of the braking system, and frankly, and I don't mean an insult. But if you don't know how to bleed just a basic system as Dave expertly explained, pay the darn money and have an expert do this. When you need to stop quick, you generally do really mean that you want to stop and right now. I would suspect, so think about it. There is more to this also, but no point in bringing any of it up, think safety then money and I know times are tough, but a break job done right is cheaper than a funeral. I personally will rarely tell people how to do a brake job on anything that is computerized or has ABS, I will only advise on the old drum and brake bleeding. That's why I wanted to make this comment. To clarify one thing though, if you are beyond careful, it can be done, But, you get one bubble in the line and all bets off. So, change the pads, and if you need to get the piston pushed in, use a C clamp and just take the cap off your brake fluid reservoir to release the pressure while using the C clamp to push the piston back into the caliber in order to get it back over the rotor. If you are bleeding air out of the lines, your going to have problems and you have done it all wrong and should call a tow truck and have it towed to a shop, this isn't the old days, unfortunately. You can change the pads and rotors, that's it. If you loosen anything and allow air to get in the line, you messed up, I'm harping because I'm not joking and I like you.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Cars can be replaced. You, bigedub and you family can not be

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Thanks for saying that Dave, and the way you did, what did Bob say about me earlier, dissertation? I may have the meaning or understanding of the word wrong but I took it as, sort of being on a soap box, lecturing or basically what we all know I am LONG WINDED, But I sincerely care and your way of putting it was exact, to the point and perfectly said, and thank you for not thinking I was stepping on you. At first I was all with you on your initial answer and then, of course, I got to thinking about why does he want to bleed his brakes, well then the dissertation begins, Brakes and people asking question here worry my at times as there is no component on a vehicle more important, next would be the steering wheel. Anyhow, I was on my way out the door to go get Mom her medicine and some groceries, so don't get in any trouble until I get back, just kidding you bro, you know that I hope. AND by the way Congratulations on breaking the 10k points and little did you know that along with that milestone comes a special reward and here you go, spend it wisely pal, you are the man !!!!... Talk to you later brother.... G

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
230

I have learned some clues on the forum that Ford IDS system can help bleed the brake. I have got myself a good clone IDS system http://www.obd365.com/wholesale/best-quality-ford-vcm-ii-multi- language-diagnostic-tool.html but I do not tried the function yet. I wish you guys can offer me a hand on how to work it out.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

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