Subaru with no power?
Does any one know what would make my 2011 Subaru w/ a 3.6R engine stall
and have no power going up a grade? My OBDll reader said both cam
sensors were the problem, I find this unlikely.Also I have misfires on #2-4&6
cylinders. Any input would help greatly.
Hmm, are there excessively high miles on your car?? I only ask because I have a 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 and have not experienced any thing like this.
Hmmm.. Where do you live, relatively? Any salt? I'm just wondering if a ground strap from the body to engine, battery to engine/trans, etc might be corroded. You can try unbolting and cleaning one at a time and greasing the bolt and then starting to see if anything changes. Have you searched any forums for those specific codes?
The car has 63k miles bought it used w/ 45k. Never had a problem with any Subaru I ever owned that I couldn't figure out and fix. This one has me baffled. I pulled the crank sensor and tested it, it past the test I found on YouTube. My problems started after I filled my gas tank, that made me think I had bad fuel, or a plugged fuel filter. I am back to square one. I do live in NE Pennsylvania the car is salt free w/ no corrosion. The OBDll codes are P0302, P0304, P0306, P0420 P0011 and P0021. The 021 & 011 are cam sensors, again I think it unlikely both cam sensors would go at the same time. The 302,304 & 306 are cylinder misfires I can't figure why. The 420 is "catalyst below threshold" ?? Again baffled, any ideas? Thanks for your response walth and Markw1952.
See this link below, good luck. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005- 2009/155538-2006-3-0r-p0011-p0021-p0302-p0304-p0306.html
Buds_72- WOW, I have a 2010 Subaru Outback Limited with the 2.5 and purchased it 29 months ago with 66,000 miles, now has over 80,000 miles and no problems.. Did you purchase your car as a certified pre-owned vehicle from a new car dealership???
Buds_72-. True Deleta is a great website for reported repairs, http://www.truedelta.com/2011-Subaru-Outback/engine-problems- 253
Buds_72- couple of other questions for you if you are willing to answer, did you pick the 3.6 over the 2.5 for the extra acceleration and are you happy you did that?? And, have you noticed that it's harder to maneuver on turns, it's reportedly nose heavier than the 2.5 by a couple hundred pounds? Finally, are you happy with the 5EAT transmission.? I deliberately chose the 2.5 for the CVT transmission...it's worked out very well for me so far...Hope you get all of your issues solved... Sorry all of this is happening to you with only 63,000 miles.... I'm surprised...
Buds_72;. With the CVT, the active AWD system has a continuously variable hydraulic transfer clutch (CVHTC) managed electronically, while for the electronic automatic transmission Subaru adds variable torque distribution (VTD) to the AWD system with a planetary center differential and an electronically controlled CVHTC to distribute the power, which normally split 45/55 percent front/rear but can modify that ratio if tires slip. The old 5 speed electronic automatic transmission was phased out with the 2015 Subaru Outback models....
It's been a while since I've seen mention of comparable scenarios.. But it could be some underlying issue not related at all that is causing all of this iirc. Mark?? Frfr?
Hey Buds, this isn't you, is it? http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems- maintenance/364321-2011-3-6r-misfire-2-4-6-help-pls.html
Walth-. Just read the link you sent on the Subaru Outback forum and question to Buds......All I can say is,. IF you are not supremely confident, comfortable and experienced working on your own car with all the proper tools, then HIRE A Professional Mechanic..... If you mess around and don't know what you are doing, you'll wind up ruining your car regardless of low mileage....I don't know exactly what's wrong with Bud's car, BUT, it seems incredulous that a car he purchased with 45,000 miles and now at 63,000 miles has as many problems like bad cam sensors..... I'm beginning to think that this particular car was not maintained well before Bud acquired the car and the chickens are coming home to roost...too bad he's stuck with this POS.
Did you not read the info in the link that you posted? Maybe it's actually the oil valves that are talked about in both links. The more I read your responses, the more I think you drop acid and then come to CG and answer questions... The same question, many times.
walth, look , I don't care, maybe it's the oil valves, the point is this, at 63,000 miles, you shouldn't have these kinds of problems in any car...
Walth- DO you work on your own cars???
Mark, the real question is: do you own an obdii reader?
walth NO, I don't need one.
You don't need to tell people that they're stuck with a better turd than yours, either. Buds, I'm interested to hear of any findings. Do you have any intentions on messing with the oil control valve(s)? I Googled:: Subaru 3.6r misfire :: and found a few more threads. Including this one from earlier this year, it's short but has some good thoughts: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010- 2014/323209-cylinder-misfires-2-4-6-a.html
Hey Walt,. I just read the link you posted above, it's on a 2010 Subaru Outback 3.6 with 160,000 miles! That's almost 100,000 miles MORE than Bud's car.... LOOK, all I've been saying from the start of this discussion is that Bud should take his car to a qualified mechanic.... He is way past the time for trying to figure this out himself.... So, you work on your cars??? Great! Maybe you have had good success? I don't know, when you can't get it fixed, you'll have to take to the mechanic as well... I'm sure that you can't do everything, like rebuild an automatic transmission, if one ever failed in your car? I would say that trying to "adjust your oil control valves" is a very complex operation UNLESS you're trained to do this work...
Buds, http://epawd.forumotion.com/t96-oil-control-valves-on-avcs- dual-avcs-equipped-subarus
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