2010 F150 Cranks wont start no fuel

Asked by Oct 27, 2015 at 06:55 PM about the 2010 Ford F-150 FX4 SuperCrew 4WD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

We had a problem a month ago where it would crank and not start. After some trouble shooting we found a bad connection on the fuel pump fuse and installed a new fuse and things worked fine. A couple days ago it happened again, we checked the fuse it was good replaced the relay still cranks no start.

Replaced both the fuel pump driver module and fuel pump still wont start. We hear the pump run for a couple seconds then shuts off.

I have not checked fuel pressure on the fuel rail yet hoping to see if there might be something else to look at as well. I have sprayed starter fluid into air intake and engine will fire so pretty sure its not getting fuel.

19 Answers


Sound like it is a new fuel pump, and it does prime up...and the motor will run with starting fluid for a bit. Yes I would check fuel pump pressure and do a bleed down test to see if it holds pressure, I don't know what the pressure should be on a Ford, but the pressure should not drop more that 5lbs and hold for at least 3 to 5 min. If not there would be a leak to investigate.

1 people found this helpful.

Thanks yes new fuel pump........ my plan after work tomorrow is to get a pressure gauge and check pressure I've been reading about an inertia switch but apparently Ford may have done away with them after 2009 I've looked all over and cant find one on mine even behind the kick panel.


I have a similar problem on my 2009 F-150. Changed the whole sending unit with the fuel pump with a OEM motorcraft, changed the fuel pump module. It will stall out after a long drive or after I shut it off it won't restart until it cools off for at least a half hour. Please let me know if you figureed yours out.

3 people found this helpful.

rsilmi925, in your case, it sounds to me like you have an ignition problem. I am not familiar with Ford that well, but in most cases what you describe is contributed to the ignition control module. When they start to go bad, heat affects them to the point that you need to cool the motor down in order for it to function again. The ignition system components on yours is where I would start looking.

1 people found this helpful.

Had this problem and took to three different auto shops. Tried numerous things and I finally after reading some of the answers listed here went and checked the fuse. Sure enough the fuse was fried on one side but still making enough connection to run poorly. Replaced the fuse and now runs and starts great.

3 people found this helpful.

Unreal, simple fix, glad you gotter.

I am so happy to find this discussion thread this morning. I went out to head off to work and my truck wouldn't start up. It would try to start, but it just wouldn't fire up. After looking it over, the fuel pump wasn't working. Priced those and was looking at $330 part. Saw this thread, and checked out the fuse. It was fired. Pulled and replaced the fuse and she fired right up. Definitely a quicker and cheaper fix than I thought we would be looking at. Thanks!


I had the stalling issue. It is the fuel control module. But my mechanic said ford recommended a replacement upgrade joy for the circuit. Evidently the circuit was undersized and a new connector, bigger wire, new module and fuse is required. I was quotes $500 to fix it. Parts were 100 for the module, 100 for the connector and lot and 200 for labor and diagnostics.

I am currently in the middle of this mess with a 2009 F150 XLT 4.6L, so far I have replaced the fuel pump which did allow the truck to start but now it is having a hard time starting and acting like it is starving for fuel while accelerating. Plugs have also been replaced and just ordered a new module. I checked the relays and swapped them out looked at the fuses and didn't see a problem there hopefully it is the control module because I don't want to drop that tank again for another fuel pump. One thing I did find interesting was after replacing the fuel pump it still wouldn't start until I reset the computer using a Modis edge diagnostic system.


Had same problem with my 2010 f150. Ford has a recommended upgrade. New type of FPCM with new connector and larger fuse. Cost me $500 at the local garage.

2 people found this helpful.

New one online was $59 with shipping should be here late next week hopefully fixes the issue.


Glad I found this thread. I've had intermittent start issues for past 8 months. It finally wouldn't start at all (while on Vacation... of course). Checked the fuse and it was fried. Replaced and started right up.

this to Emthompson i have the same problem with my truck you had did you ever find out what the problem was to fix it


It ended up being the #27 fuel pump fuse being melted causing intermittent power to the fuel pump. I replaced it with a 30amp fues and haven't had a problem in almost a year. Simple fix.

1 people found this helpful.

Not yet I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel pump module, checked fuses, checked new fuel pumps pressure seems fine. I'm running codes now P0171 & P0174. Cleaned and checked the MAF sensor seems to be responding normally. When hooked up the back side of the motor seems to be running very lean fuel mileage has dropped about 40% and now runs rough and has rough starts.


Had same trouble with not starting but would turn over. Towed it home and it would start then. Wrecker guy said fuel pump was bad intermitantly. Checked pump module and looked ok so we changed fuel pump. Started up once then wouldnt start. Read answers here and found fuse#27 burnt. Still not blown but burnt. Changed it out and all is good, thanks to this site. $300 fuse!HA

1 people found this helpful.

I just had this happen to my 2010 F150 5.4L. The #27 fuse was fine. The fuel pump module was fine. It would crank and start, then it would immediately die. No check engine light came up, just the Oil Pressure light followed by a brief alarm. I disconnected the negative battery cable. Turned the ignition to the "ON" position and left it there. Then reconnected the negative battery cable. Turned the key back to the "OFF" position and then started it. It cranked up and stayed on. I have a check engine light now so I'll go see what that is and deal with that. But this should at least get you moving again so you can get to safety.

I had EXACT SAME ISSUES this morning and tried to do what you said. No luck. So checked fuses under hood of my 2010 and for whatever reason, pulled #43 (was burned up) left that fuse out of it's slot and truck started right up. Crazy it would start by pulling that particular fuse as it was for back up lamp relay.

Yes, fuse socket has melted. It is physically too small. There are empty sockets of lager fuses use one of them. Be sure to use the same value fuse.

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