Persistent battery drain
I have a 2010 LR2 HSE with 35k miles that I have on-going issues with a flat/dead
battery. If I leave the vehicle for a few days and dont drive it, the battery is completely
dead - doesn't even turn over. I have to then get it jumped. Then it's fine until it sits for
more than 2 days. I have had the LR dealership tell me the issue is resolved (first a new
battery, then a system reboot), neither of which fixed the issue. Am I missing something
as to why the dealership can't determine the cause of the battery drain? I'm not very
knowledeable about cars but I've done some research online and it seems like a
mechanic should be able to fix this, or at minimum tell me the cause? Any insight would
I have this same exact issue and have been to my dealership multiple times with no fix. It's so frustrating. I have to ride around with jumper cables in my vehicle. Please help!!! I have a 2010 LR2 HSE as well.
this is a huge issue across LR2s from 2007 on. the class action suit has been in the news now as of August 2015. Just google Landrover LR2 class action suit. I recommend all LR2 owners with the issue contact the firm that is listed in the news articles....personally I am tired of this. We cannot use our auto light setting, the sunroof does it. etc. It just drains.....I had to jump ours again this morning after 2 nights without use. Don't bother with landrover dealerships....they will just keep replacing the battery and you will keep paying for it....We have already replaced the battery once.
I have a 2009 LR2. I'm having the same battery draining issue. I've had the battery tested multiple times with results reflecting that my battery is fine. This past week the car sat for two days and wouldn't start which really came at no surprise. I had it jumped and this time the dashboard did not even light up at all. I have just recently replaced the battery so I'll soon be letting it sit for a few days as a test. NOTE Land Rover turned my Blue tooth off. The issue was not resolved for me with this action.
I have had 7 batteries over 5years. Dealership wants to charge $65 for placing battery in car. I'm done with dealing with this issue. If interested join me! http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit- settlements/lawsuit-news/86654-jaguar-hit-5m- battery-defect-class-action-lawsuit/
Got my third new battery today on the 2009 LR2. Had to jump it after it was in the garage Sat night to Monday morning. Funny thing was it passed all the maintenance tests 2 weeks ago at Landrover....figures....Put in the Die Hard Gold AGM Group 94. Hoping this might manage whatever is draining the dang system all the time......sick of this problem, but dont want to buy new car.....cha ching another $200 out the door....
Nat, I took my battery out and just did recharge at O'Reily Auto Parts, then drove vehicle to Interstate Power Center. The dealership just replaces battery under warranty but charges diagnosis or labor. Don't get rid of the car just yet. I'll just keep positive cable off every night until I feel comfortable driving it. I'm thinking the radio is staying on. Try to turning it on without starting.
In an odd way, it is reassuring to know that so many of you are/have experienced this issue. I purchased a 2008 LR2 SE in October with 66K miles and in excellent condition. It has run flawlessly for 4 months. My wife started noticing the startup as being weaker than when we got it. I just changed out the serpentine belt and idler pulleys, and while reconnecting the battery noticed a significant spark at the negative post. An ammeter attached inline to the negative shows a parasitic draw of 13.5 amps. The manual says a max of 4 mA, so this is clearly out of range. After testing the alternator (output and diodes), starter motor and relay, and every fuse and relay in the three fuse boxes, I cannot locate the source. The grounds and wiring in general looks brand new and secure. I read about the Bluetooth and shut it off at the radio---didn't change a thing. The battery is 2 years old (790 CCA) and checks out fine. In the interim, I installed a battery cutoff switch under the hood. Is there any component connected to the battery that does not have a fuse or relay?
Just out of curiousity, how much drain has anyone experienced? I've identified about 12.35 DC volts / 13.5 DC amperes. My research on the Bluetooth phone issues mentioned a less than 1 DC amp drain in addition to the "normal" amount of about 0.5 amps. Is the ECM or CAN bus components (i.e. computer internal fault) a possibility?
I have both 2010 lr2 and 2010 Volvo XC60 My xc60 had similar issue and only the Garden State Volvo dealer fixed and under warranty which just had expired. It was the satellite radio module. They first asked me to see if sat radio worked and it didn't. Low and behold they swapped out module which stopped it from constantly trying to find it and draining battery. Over a year now and no issues! Possibly related since these vehicles were sharing tech back then when Ford owned them all
Hi Charlie! I thank you for your info. I have 58000 miles on this 2010 LR2 and I have been through 3 batteries. That's just ridiculous. Has anyone reported this to LR? I have called them at their headquarters to report this and they are oblivious. It's a total run around. I cannot seem to get the help I need from Land Rover or my dealership although I have specifically asked them to Google LR2 battery issues and mentioned this feed. Why are they not addressing this when so many people have the same issue? I am so tired of getting into my LR and feeling that drain when I try to start the vehicle. I have paid for all of the batteries except one because I am now out of warranty and the complaint seems to fall on deaf ears. They think that a girl does not know her vehicle????.....I have news for them, I know every squeak and noise my LR makes and I address them as appropriate. I had to purchase a portable jumper device to start my LR when it happens....that's just wrong! Good thing I'm a gal that can fend for herself but for the average gal..probably not. What can we do to get LR to fix this problem without having to spend more money? I love this vehicle outside of the battery issue and have only had one other problem since I purchased it. I do not use the Satellite radio and have resorted to not using the regular radio. I never turn it on...I should not have to so that!! I have tried locking my car in my garage and bringing the key inside when I do so and keeping the auto light feature turned off to see if that makes a difference and nothing has changed. Please advise on next steps. I want to keep this vehicle because I love the looks and it is paid for with low mileage. I do not want to spend more money! Thanks
I also wanted to add that when I tell my dealership that I have resorted to keeping everything turned off and not using features design for this vehicle they seem to blow it off. They also suggest the same. There is something wrong with that!!! We pay high dollars to drive a LR and we should be able to use the basic features provided. Nuff said!
Just submit to class action. Land Rover has a file for everytime you have taken the vehicle in.
Hi LR2008, I Googled the law suit layers referenced and I got the front desk gal that supposedly transferred me to the secretary of the lawyer handling the law suit and she had no idea what I was talking about....major fail! I left my phone number much to my chagrin and never got a call back. Makes me think the law suit is bogus! Sigh :(
Spell check got me on lawyers
Pantoni.. I agree with you just put a new Battery on july -2016.. 2008 LR2 105k miles.. had it for 2 years now & it just niw started this.. did fine all summer.. but wait the temperature drop 30 degrees it was 48 this am.. in September 28,2016.. Battery dead ? Iam going to hook a bulb up to lead on battery and start unplugging fuses to find parasitic Drain.. Are put a 100 amp ignition control relay to shut off every thing but the keyless entry.. will keep posted on finding..
I have a 2010 RR VOGUE I have had a new alternator and battery but battery still dies every morning! I have no visible issues wrong no lights left on everything works fine I don't get it!
I have a 2009 LR2 and I am on my third battery. If I leave the car more than 2 days I need to call AAA to jump start it. It is absolutely ridiculous since I have taken the car to my mechanic, and every time he proposes something different, I leave with a large bill and the problem is still there. Land Rover denies having any issues. When I called they claimed they never heard of such thing, they suggested to take it to my dealership to have it checked out and of course since the warranty is over I am on my own. I bought cable wires for emergencies and this time the battery was so dead that even AAA had to sent a second larger car to jump it. FYI the battery tested fine.
Hi GeorgiaH it was the alternator for me I just have another issue now where the break goes rock hard after 2 nights and I have to push it really hard to then start it. Have u had the alternator changed? Mark
Good deal yeah i think the same thing alternator but it hard to get it to drain it sat for 8 days this week no problems arise at all.. started right up.. but when it gets cold it goes dead? Just put a new orilleys battery july-2016 the best one $350.00 Could be the diodes get cold & make Drain continuity? Idk.. need some liquid nitrogen..lol
Best bet is let an auto electrician look at it they will tell you straight away if it's the alternator. Mark
What worked for me I have 2009 LR2 and experienced the same problem. Every time I leave it for few days, I come back to a dead battery. I tried to to turn off the radio, turn the lights to off instead of auto, and unpaired my phone but nothing worked. I found an article online that someone associated the battery drain with the programming of the FOB. The manufacturer has the remote key setup for single-point entry. If you press once on the unlock, it unlocks the driver door only. you need to hit it twice to unlock all doors. If that setup is modified to multi-point entry where you hit the unlock once to unlock all doors, then this caused battery drain. Sure enough, I reverted back the setting on my remote control to a single point entry, then had to leave town to a conference for 5 days, and when I came back, the car started fine. So whether this was by chance, or if it really fixed the problem, I don't know. I will confirm this next time I leave town but if is worth trying. To turn the single/multi-point entry feature on/off: unlock the vehicle then simultaneously press and hold the lock and unlock buttons for three seconds. The vehicle will lock and then unlock in the currently selected mode and the hazard warning lamps will flash twice to confirm the change. Repeating the procedure will reverse it.
Sc2009, My 2010 LR2 is and has been set to single point entry and I have been having this same battery drain issue. So I don't think that is the issue.
Benimel, I totally agree, my LR 2 has been single entry since purchase and I am going on my 4th battery after 61,000 miles. That's unacceptable!!
Left for 10 days the past 2 Christmas's with 2009 LR2 in garage. New battery just 6 weeks ago. AAA could not jump start both times and had to tow it. Now on my 3rd battery. Surprised to see this is a common issue.
I reviewed the Land Rover recalls on their website and there is no mention of battery drain issues. Please register your complaints onto the National Traffic Safey Administration website. nhtsa.gov. Maybe we can get something done about this. I see that there are rear differential issues with this vehicle as well with NHTSA and I am now totally upset and freaked out. Land Rover should support their vehicles!!!!
BTW... my LR 2 battery died again last week and I had to jump it with my handy Jump and Carry device and take it to my local LR dealership...battery #4.. uggh! I am doubtful..as my service advisor suggested a new Discovery Sport...just like my last advisor when my 2002 gave me issues.
Yes, I feel your pain. There must be some huge communication disconnect with the battery issue. I believe it to be VERY well documented among LR/RR owners, but the company and the dealerships are clueless. I discussed it with a service advisor and the branch manager in Salt Lake City and they looked at me like I was from Mars. No knowledge of the problem, the suit, or any battery issue of any kind. Based on my personal opinion and reflecting on others findings, I have reason to believe the drain originates in the main computer as some type of firmware glitch. It's not tied to a fuse block or panel, it affects nearly every 2007-2012 vehicle, and it would be VERY expensive to correct. Regarding the rear differential issue, I researched that one as well. It appears there is a pinion bearing in the diff that may have been heat treated incorrectly that creates spalling, or pitted deterioration of the bearing race starting at around 70,000 miles. As it breaks down, the metal chips in the oil accelerate damage, resulting in bearing failure. Dealer repair cost is around $4k, but there is at least one company that sells a rebuilt diff case with new guts for ~$1,300. You remove yours, send them the core, and they send you the new one. Probably the best and easiest for DIY mechanics, since doing the bearing replacement yourself is way, way beyond the scope of any home mechanic. I learned about it when my LR2 had 68k miles and had no bearing noises. I simply vacuumed out the old diff oil very thoroughly with a suction pump (no drain plug) and replaced it with a very high quality oil like Royal Purple. I'm at 86k and all's good. Funny that the service manual doesn't say to even check it until 150k. I think we can revise those service intervals on a few things. If you don't have bearing noises under the back seat center, replace the gear oil ASAP. Also, check the old oil for metal flakes--if not present then good, and change the oil more often (10-15k). Do you have a LR repair manual? There is one out there online in one of the forums.
Hi Bandicay49. I do not have a LR 2 repair manual and should not have to have one as an average consumer. I'm a female and I do not work on cars but I have common sense to know what is going on with this vehicle. My LR service advisor called me today after 5 days of having my vehicle and said that he found the satellite radio to be the problem (haha reported here on this thread as well) and told me that I need to pay for them to bypass the satellite radio option. He agreed that they battery would be replaced at no cost as the current one died in less than a year! I totally disagree about paying for them to bypass the satellite radio system (never used) BTW and to think that's a fix is unbelievable to me. Why are they not standing behind their vehicles and taking ownership for their problems?? I am calling Land Rover corporate tomorrow. I will also address the rear differential problem with them as well.
Haven't had time to troubleshoot the parasitic battery drain however I did a quick workaround fix by installing a remote control battery disconnect that also works as an anti-theft device. It works well and I do not have to reprogram radio when battery is remotely disconnected for security. Got it off of e-bay for $34.49 on auction. Buy it now price is approximately $49. Link for auction listing is below: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Remote-Control-Battery- Switch-Disconnect-Anti-theft-DC-12V-Master-Kill/172489189355? _trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%2 6algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40832%26meid%3D cc58425d73ae4d69bcf9e9c4738cdcec%26pid%3D100011%26rk %3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172475853093 Now if I can figure out how to reset left side passenger and left side rear windows I'll be good. Reset instructions I've seen on internet don't work. Window problems existed before remote battery reset solution. Do any of you guys have a solution for 2011 Land Rover window reset?
Try this from dealer information! Works great! Did for me..
I picked up an 08 LR2 with 109k a couple months ago. Battery was dead the second day. Jumped it, drove it and when I got home I heard a weird, feint whining noise in the rear of the engine compartment that persisted all night to kill the battery, along with it, the shift indicator lights in the center console stayed on 100% of the time. I found nothing on the forums, so I went old school. It turned out to be a stuck relay in the power distribution box under the hood. I pulled them one by one till the whining stopped. Bought a replacement relay for a few bucks and haven't had an issue with that since. Don't expect this will surely help anyone here, but great if it does!
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