Ticking when A/C turned on
When I turn on the A/C there is a ticking sound behind the glove box area. It stops after a few seconds.
Aircon fan! Try turning fan speed up and down.
Maybe I should have said a knocking sound. It starts when I turn the key to on, then when the AC blows for a few seconds it stops. I have turned the air up and down, turned the temp up and down, diverted the air to the floor, windshield etc. Someone said it might be an actuator but how do you get to it?
Fan come away from motor. Stuff court in fan area. Should be under dash. Can u smell burnt plastic?
No, don't smell anything and the AC blows cold. Just makes that noise when I turn it on. I will look under dash tomorrow. Thanks
Well I figured it out.. It is the blend door actuator. It was pretty easy to get to. I removed the lowerpanel. I disconnected the actuator and the noised stopped. No more knocking and I ordered a new replacement on Ebay. It was only 29 bucks. Thank you for your help
Would not of guessed that..... good work
We have the same problem, but only when we turn the climate contol off. Would you happen to have the part number for the actuator by chance? Thanks!
I got it on Ebay. It is exactly from a ford F-150, Escape, Etc. but 30 dollars cheaper. Easy fix, here is the part link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Pickup-F150-Lincoln-Inlet-Heater-Temperature-Blend-Door-Actuator-New-/130686392739?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e6d8419a3
Very helpful, I had the same knocking. It went away by itself but after that I only get hot air. I know it's not the freon. I just don't know where this actuator is located
I have a 2011 ford flex sel 2 wheel drive, same knocking noise from the same area it was the blend door actuator. Cost me 30 dollars at Autozone and you cant beat a lifetime warranty
I have a 2010 that ticks as well- My issue was the heat stopped on the passenger side- blew cold all the time- To the left of the bend actuator that controls the recirculate portion there is a module with a bunch of wires running in and a white tube running under- well, the module that controls the heat is behind that and a pain in the butt to get to. I managed to get it out without removing the entire dash- I'd recommend for anyone reading this with the same problem to take the front actuator off, take the door off the cabin filter slot and the glove box dampener off for a little extra space to maneuver. I have large hands so it was quite cramped- long story short, 1/4" drive ratchet, short and long extensions, a swivel joint and both shallow and deep 5/16" sockets... I managed to get the screws out, twist the actuator so the shaft was facing up toward the top of the dash and slid it out between the module and white hose... reverse going in- Before going that far, you should probably take the old one lose from the slot enough you can get a screw driver in to turn the female gear receptor... before taking the actuator completely out of the dash... found that was the bad actuator and swapped it- I was curious as to what caused it- blown resistor.
Another Shot from under the dash
Easiest way to feed it in and out-
Thanks for the screen shots and advice. I was having trouble with the swivel, so I ground my deep well socket down to 1 3/4 inches long and was able to get my socket wrench in there to get the second screw out in literally seconds.
Looking for a Used Flex in your area?
CarGurus has 8,015 nationwide Flex listings starting at $4,900.
Search Ford Flex Questions
Ford Flex Experts