dealership ripping me off?

Asked by Dec 27, 2013 at 09:41 PM about the 2005 Ford Escape XLT 4WD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 2005 ford escape sitting atthe dealership. Check engine light is still on. Have had
itthere 10 times. They putito  the computer and said it was the module. They changed it.
Did not work . Next they changed the computer. Check engine light still on. Today they
traced the wiring (over 3 hours @$90 per hour) Now they want top of engine off to get to
harness at back of engine! Is it possible they are playing a guessing game at my
expense?? The vehicle runs fine. Just wont pass inspection with check engine light on!

9 Answers

107,285

Did they say what the code number was for the check engine light?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

with a fifteen dollar scanner...connect to the OBD-II port (within three feet of the ignition switch) read the trouble codes and RESET the codes....Check engine light should go off then~

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
23,355

The light will go off and set a P1000 code - In most smog check states (like California), that's a fail because the monitors haven't run yet. You can't just cheat the system. What are the codes? Sounds like the guy they have working on your car doesn't know squat.

227,845

and in my experiences some dealerships like to guess and replace parts. You can always take it to a local mechanic and have them look at it for you.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
20

If I am not mistaken the Ford escape is a rebadged Mazda tribute maybe take the vehicle to a Mazda dealership and get them to try to reset your eng. chk. Light. Who knows but I sense you are being taken advantage of because of gender.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

an overlooked item...(and so simple) is the Ground to Chassis connection....which slowly becomes fuzzy....with each start adds to this (semi-conductor) layer between the ground lug and the frame or fender (wherever that lug is connected)....what you must do is follow the Black battery cable to where it connects to the ground/chassis...its a Cable, but still has a lug clamped onto the end....grab this lug with a pliers and wirebrush the corrosion off till shiny....it is on this lug and the spot where it connects to is Point ZERO for the electrical system...this means the 300 cold cranking amps and the delicate 750 milliAmps the ECU uses come from this ground spot....every time the car is started this ground develops a "semi-conductor" brown power connection....clean the ground for restored power to ALL components...especially the delicate power ones (like that use a field-effect transistor for the sensors)...a heated 02 sensor needs that power to take it's readings....etc....it's always the GROUND with electrical problems~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

refresh the ground and watch everything start actin' right again~ on my honor as the "judge" I can swear it~

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Vehicle still at garage. They say they are stumped and need to get ahold of Ford engineers!

okay here's 81 complaints for your ammo box~ http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Escape/2005/electrical/computer_PCM_ failure.shtml

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

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