Any way to better the fuel milege on 2005 Ford Escape?
I have a 2005 Ford Escape Limited 4X4. I purchased it about 2 months ago. I love the truck but the 18 mpg or 12.8L/100Km is killing me. Anyone know how I can get better mpg????
no,maybe a tune up,run a can of seafome injector cleaner in a full tank of gas.
I can feel your pain! I also have a 2005 escape limited 4x4. Averaging 12.6L/100km. I would love to get any advice on lowering consumption.
Try the usual things first... K&N filter and airbox, E3 plugs, fresh oil and some Z-Maxx and see how that works. Otherwise it could be your driving habits... jackrabbit starts, 10-20 over the posted speed limit on the highway, underinflated tires, extra weight in the cargo area all could be working against good mileage. Also if your tires are 4-5 years old or are halfway to the mileage point you will notice your mileage going down.
Sounds like someone has been watching too much of the Speed channel. E3 plugs are a rip off. They do increase spark, but by a minimal amount over Iridium and double Platinum plug while costing a lot more. They're just not worth it for the regular person. Zmax will ruin your engine through increased bearing wear and the fuel additive is corrosive and will slowly eat anything that isn't metal in your fuel system. All the while not doing ANYTHING that Zmax claims. It's snake oil. Just stick to putting gasoline in your fuel tank and oil in your crank case. If you have to use a fuel cleaner then Redline is the best and is NOT corrosive.
Well, that mostly comes down to your driving habits. Do you do mostly stop and go driving? If so, there's not much you're going to be able to do. You can try your regular tune up items such as spark plugs, wires, air filter, and change your oil with a full synthetic oil. Mobil 1, Castrol, and Royal Purple are NOT true full synthetics. Besides that here's what you can do: 1. Reduce weight. 2. Reduce starting and stopping. 3. Only use the brakes if you have to. Maintain speed, changes in speed cost fuel. 4. Be smooth, sudden starts eat fuel. 5. Use the fuel octane suggest for your car and don't use cheap crappy gas. 6. Tire pressure, check it and make sure it's right. You can take it an extra step and fill the tires with nitrogen as well. It's is probably more than it's worth though. Besides the Zmax comment Michael has some good ideas. I also agree that a Seafoam treatment could do some good if the engine is pretty dirty.
Clint, sales figures beg to differ on your opinion of both the E3 plugs and Zmaxx. However we seem to agree that the usual suspects need to be addressed first, being a tune-up, fresh oil, fresh air filter and a change of driving habits so let's avoid a pissing contest on this poor guy's concerns shall we?!
Not much you can do really,good injector cleaning will help but 18 mpg is about right for the vehicle with AWD.
I'm not trying to start a pissing contest. I'm trying to save her some money, and her engine. Just because sale figures are up doesn't mean that Zmax is a good product. They are being sued due to independent studies showing that it doesn't do what it's supposed to and it increases bearing wear. Anyone that knows anything about cars should know that if you pour something like Zmax (thin liquid) in your oil it's going to thin the oil out and reduce protection and increase wear.
AH,another Chase,he is sure to jump in on this with all his NOT know how.
Unfortunately, "sales figures" are not an indication of whether or not a product is effective. MARKETING is the driving force here. If your favorite car show guy tells you that e3 plugs are good, then you will probably take him at his word and break your neck to go out and buy them when the show is over. You have to remember, though that these companies PAY for their products to be featured on/endorsed by people. The fact that E3 is willing to pay "Johnny Car Host" $10,000 to $15,000 to talk about their product for 5 minutes on their show certainly does not mean that they work as advertised. I have had the best luck by FAR replacing oem brands with oem brands. Ever wonder why cars don't come with E3 plugs? Because they simply don't work as advertised. If they did, ALL car makers would use them to boost the numbers on the mileage. The Escape is rated by fueleconomy.gov as being 19/23 for a 4 cylinder 2 wheel drive to 16/20 for the V6 4x4. It sounds as if yours is operating well within the rated economy (unless yours is a hybrid) You can see the ratings at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2005_Ford_Escape.shtml. You might do some research before buying a vehicle so that you know what you are getting into. If you want 40 miles per gallon, buy a Prius!
OK I've been busted... Zmaxx and E3 paid me 15g's a piece to endorse their products on here knowing full well that their products don't do what they claim and they have the next 25 years to face litigation. You did it, you caught me, I give up... here's some more poop on the companies: -They hire specialists in human psychology to hypnotize the populace into thinking their products actually work instead of investing the money in research and developement. -They hire $5,000 an hour lawyers to write the disclaimers that puts the blame solely on the consumers when the products don't work as advertised. -The owners of these companies live in their parents' basements, rent free, and the parents pay all of their bills so they don't have to turn a profit. I guess I'll have to move on to my next pet project/source of income... maybe how Facebook is eating your brain, or how large corporations are only after your welfare cheque...
I have worked in marketing for over 20 years and one of my clients is the host and executive producer for one of the speed channel car shows. Litigation? In order to have a lawsuit, you have to have damages. What are your damages from buying spark plugs that don't work as advertised? Is 50 bux worth going to court for? Besides... there are companies making products that will actually ruin your engine, and they sell it like hotcakes. Ever heard of stop leak? And I suppose the makers of the "tornado" air spinning plate, the throttle body spacer and the fuel line magnets are in danger of being sued as well for selling crap that doesn't work too...
Oh man, where do I start... let's see... you're a marketing guy, yet you compose sentences like, " Besides... there are companies making products that will actually ruin your engine, and they sell it like hotcakes." Stop Leak has been around since I rebuilt my first engine in 1980 when I turned15 years old... we have to face the fact that if it didn't work on small cooling system leaks... IT WOULDN'T BE STILL FOR SALE!!! Stop Leak is a product, not a products nor multiples thereof, as you indicated. "And I suppose the makers of the "tornado" air spinning plate, the throttle body spacer and the fuel line magnets are in danger of being sued as well for selling crap that doesn't work too... If you can still find these products on any shelf, I'll buy them! BTW, learning how to end a sentence might give you some credibility....
A lot of posts for ideas but if I may go ahead and suggest the K&N air filter does make a noticeable increase in fuel mileage specially if you do a lot of highway driving. I bought a new 2005 AWD escape and it was horrible for gas mileage but the K&N did help, there's not much else you can do other than making sure the spark plugs are changed before 100,000kms (thats a huge job removing the intake to get the back 3 plugs). I ended up trading it in after it was 2 years old for a new 08 F150 super crew 4x4 that gets BETTER fuel mileage then the 2005 Escape did. I'm a Ford guy and I have to say Ford does not know how to make v6 engines fuel efficient till now 2012.
Mr. Mikey, If you wish to discuss my credibility, perhaps you should know a little bit more about me. First of all... bad me for using an Android phone to make a post on here. Yes, the grammar was piss poor in that post. unfortunately, once you type beyond the window size on that device, you can't see what you have already typed. So okay, shame on me. However, you might want to point your high-powered perspective at your own writing abilities as well. Pay particular attention to capitalization, spacing and punctuation. Perhaps you are also utilizing a device that limits your ability to preview your post before making it. Now, on to my credibility... I am the voice of over 30 news radio stations around the USA in large and major metropolitan markets. I, my friend, am the IMAGE and the VOICE of authority. (I am not bragging here, just letting you know what it is that I do.) I am also the voice for 3 national television networks and several National motorsports programs. I am also the voice of many of the products that fall into the categories that we have seen discussed in this very thread. YOU have likely purchased the very products I have told you about on television. I am the guy that writes and produces these commercials in such a way, and with the disclaimers necessary to keep them from legal liability with regard to damages caused by their products, as well as false claims in their advertising. At the same time, these products remain on the shelves because people like you keep believing in and buying them. Just because a product is available for sale is not an indication that you should buy and/or use it. It also does not mean that it is either functional or safe to use in your engine. (read the disclaimers sometime... "Results not typical", "This product intended for use as emergency repair only.", "Have your mechanic flush this product out of your cooling system once permanent repairs have been completed.") Have a look at the cigarette aisle in the grocery store. They keep selling them because people keep buying them, so your argument that if it was dangerous, that it would be taken off of the shelves is void. So far this year, I have made over $750k working an average of 2 to 3 hours a day, largely thanks to you and those like you who buy these products! At the end of the day, you can say whatever you like about me. My salary comes DIRECTLY out of YOUR pocket! By all means, PLEASE continue to purchase "Stop Leak" products, as well as liquid tune up, engine rebuild in a can and all of the other snake oil that makes up an entire wall of products at your local Auto Zone! Yes, Stop leak DOES in fact work. It stops up heater cores, radiators, thermostats, water pumps and water jackets in engine blocks leading to overheating and eventually blown head gaskets and cracked heads and blocks. Attached is an image of the head gasket from a Ford 2.9L engine I took apart 2 months ago from an engine that the prior owner had dumped 2 cans of stop leak into, in an attempt to seal a "small radiator leak". his "repair" led to a blown head gasket, a cracked head, a stopped up radiator and a clogged heater core. I fixed the vehicle in my home shop and sold it for $3500.00 after I bought it from him for $125.00. I turned a Ford Bronco II and a Ford Exploder that I had a total investment of about $1000.00 in (combined) into $9400.00 to buy an '06 Jeep Liberty to go pounding through the trails with in less than 3 months in my spare time. in BOTH cases, STOP LEAK type product was the DIRECT CAUSE of the failure! You must ask yourself the common sense question: "If it will stop up a hole in my radiator, what else will it stop up?" So you see... Marketing and voiceover production of motorsports programming is not the only experience I speak from; I enjoy actually doing the work as well. It is a passion. I, too, have been working on engines since I was a teen. In summary, notice how, while I might have sounded like a jerk through some of this post, I stuck to the facts and did not make any personal attacks against you. Notice also that in the attached image, I am providing evidence of my initial claims earlier in this thread. What you did or didn't do when you were 15 has no relevance unless you have some sort of evidence to back it up. I have had the privelidge of seeing a spark plug test firing chamber testing spark plugs side by side recorded with a high speed camera (Like on Mythbusters). I saw NO difference between the aftermarket plugs that are supposed to give you better performance and stock plugs. It is all placebo and (I will go back to my original word here) MARKETING! "It looks good on TV, so it MUST be good!" JUST BECAUSE THEY SELL IT DOES NOT MEAN THAT IT WORKS, OR THAT IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO USE IT! If your vehicle has a failure, fix it right, or the $5.99 you spend on a "Band Aid fix" will cost you THOUSANDS later!
I agree 100% I've been repairing vehicles since 1986 and your last paragraph nailed it! Anyone out there that are new to "do-it-yourself" take note.
change the air filter and the spark plugs
Your gas mileage is pretty much on the mark for a V6 4x4 Escape. Realistically, your not going to improve it that much. Our family has both extremes, a V6 4x4 Escape and a 4 cylinder 2wd Mercury Mariner, both with AT. The Escape has the power but eats gas and the Mariner does pretty good on fuel but can barely get out of it's own way until it hits 40-45 mph, when it hits it's sweet spot on the power band. It seems like you can't have your cake and eat it too, at least on the first Gens - maybe the V6 2wd is where it's at?
i have worked on cars a long time .and yes i have a 05 escape that sucks gas .the people and i are asking about bad fuel econ on 05 escape like have you had one and then it started getting bad millage and you did something to get back your great millage back .we are not asking for a guess yes the basic things are to change plugs air filter and so on but is there anyone out there that has had a escape with good fuel econ and then it got bad fuel econ and you did something and it is getting good fuel econ again..................
I have a 2003 ford escape 4x4 it does really good on fuel I put slick50 in all the running gears and engine and trans.i can drive about 475 mile per tank no lie !! It got a lot of take off power and top end performance. Hope you take my advice most people are back yard mechanics on here. I'm a diesel mechanic and I run slick 50 in everything I own. Yes even lawnmowers !!
Wow! What a dialog. Does anyone read the fuel.gov web sites or pay attention to the stickers on cars in showrooms with the EPA mileage estimates? And, why would you expect a V6, 4 by 4 , to get really great mileage, this isn't a Toyota Prius! So, it takes homework, research and reading lots of reviews in advance of going to the showroom or secondary market to purchase a new or late model car. I used to only consider new cars, but, a free convinced me to consider lease returns, certified used cars from a reputable new car dealer. I did that and it's worked out well. In this case, the vehicle you've chosen is probably in the normal range for fuel mileage, its your fault, you should have known that. Funny, I hear people say all the time, I didn't realize that the car didn't give me the mileage I expected. My answer is, why not, you purchased it? Also, people who are so fixated with wanting more powerful cars and not being able to drive any faster than the rest of us, and want to get to 65 in two seconds faster, well, you have to pay for that. The person above who talked about how you drive, weight, and not stopping and starting at every intersection is absolutely correct. It has an impact on your brakes, fuel, transmission, engine and probably a lot of other components in your car. All of this takes energy and the stress and strain to get up to speed is taxing on your car. Once your up for cruising speed, it takes less effort to stay there, doesn't that seem obvious? Finally, the days of the backyard mechanic or quick fix is over, in fact, it's been over for decades, but, the lure and promise of some fix in a can is ridiculous. Cars today are rolling computers and it takes a skilled diagnosis and equipment to determine what's wrong. Also, there's no such thing anymore called a tune-up, an archaic term used in the 70s. If you have a problem, take your car to a trained expert mechanic, there's lots of independent garages. It may take a while to find an honest one, but, once you do, stick with that person. They'll guide you and your car to a long-term life with less headache. There's no such thing as quick fixes and cheap wheels. And, making the right choice, helps a lot when choosing your next car. Think long and hard about your needs and whether you need a super powerful engine or is this just the junior high school kid in you talking. If you are considering pulling a large trailer, boat or something like that, of course you need the extra power of a V8, or diesel-powered vehicle, but, if you are not doing this, why purchase something this huge? Ask yourself these questions before you buy your next vehicle and you'll see how much happier you can be with your purchase. Good luck.
Sorry for the typos in my last post, auto correct with my tablet, it was a friend, not free, who persuaded me to look at certified cars. By the way, get the extended warranty, it helps. Take a look at the profile of the 2005 Escape below. http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Escape/2005/
Mark has some good points, plus the EPA standards have changed a great deal since 2005. Try looking at it this way, your driving a 10 year old car which, for most people, is a car that has had the loan paid off on for a long time. For a few that might be paying off a loan on the car used, consider what you paid for your car used as compared to buying a new version of the same or simular car. The cost difference will more than make up for extra gas your buying. If you bought your car new back in 2005, that loan has long since been retired, so the offset in fuel costs are even better.
ba63- thanks. I always advise people to keep their car for as long as possible, provided it's a good car. That's an important point and you should always get information about a car and its history before you purchase it, if you can. I say that because in the case of my 2010 Subaru Outback Limited, the car has recently had some issues in the 2013 and newer years, a surprise and disappointment. I think a lot of people rely on previous information and later regret buying the new version just to run into trouble. Well, I say, you've got a new car warranty and I always purchase the extended warranty as well to 100,000 miles. It's a great piece of mind. In the last 10 years cars have changed so much, better mileage, more reliable ( mostly ), and have gotten faster. Yes, I said faster, and what we've come to expect in acceleration. Most Fours today in the last 5 years since 2010 accelerate to 60 just as fast as muscle cars from 60s. The reason for this is modern cars are naturally aspirated, have four valves per cylinder, and higher compression. Back in the 60s, most cars with this spirited performance were V8s and 300 horsepower. A similarly 305 horsepower WRX STI can get to 60 in 5.2 seconds and it's a Four. Of course, that WRX STI does use a lot of fuel to get the top performance, but, it sure is amazing that a Four can do this. It helps to try and obtain a car with a proven track record and check lots of sources for reviews. And, don't forget to check out the fuel statistics. Fuel is one that the most expensive things you put in your car over time. Do the math on a car like the Toyota Prius which gets 45 miles per gallon over 100,000 miles compared to another car that gets 15 to 20 miles per gallon and you'll see what I mean. So, choose carefully based on your needs and don't be surprised if you don't get what you want. It's really up to you. Finally, it's always less expensive to fix your old car than have $350 to $400 car payments over 60 months. There's one glaring exception, and that is upgrading safety features like air bags and dramatically increasing your fuel economy. So, in the case of an older car say from the 70s or 80s, no matter how much money you spend, you'll never be able to turn a 15 mpg car into a Prius that gets up to 50 miles per gallon. It just cannot be done.
jut had new platinum plugs put on my 05 escape limited v6. But now i get 14.8 mpg in town And 15 on the freeway. I drive right, it runs smooth, no check engine light. just terrible gas mileage. i've sprayed the MAF sensor, put lucas injection cleaner in gas tank. I'll try changing the fuel filter to see if that helps. But damn...14-15 mpg? 17 town-20mpg freeway is all i ask.
What kind of mileage were you getting with the old plugs? If it was significantly better, then I think you just answered your own question! If your Escape is a 4x4, they just are not known for getting great mpgs. Even my 2005 Mariner 2x4 with a 2.3 isn't great; my inlaw's 2001 XLT 3.0 4x4 is downright depressing (look close enough and you'll swear you can see the gas gauge going down as it idles!). Keep an eye on your tires (air pressure and wear) and check your air cleaner as well - might help grab an extra mpg? In my opinion, where the first Generation Escape types shine is in their head and leg room, cargo capacity, and all around flexibility (try to find a new, small SUV today that still offers a back glass that open independently of the tailgate; even the new Escapes don't have that). If your a do-it-yourselfer, these cars are amazingly straight forward to work on yourself but, again, gas mileage is rather disappointing, I think because of the automatic transmission with the "afterthought" overdrive and the general boxy design of the body. Hopefully, your Escape can still earn its keep in other ways and win your forgiveness!
before mpg=17/21. New air filter. if something were wrong with the new plugs, i should feel it, but it sounds and feels smooth. B- Max put in new lower/upper oil gaskets, valve cover gaskets. Because they had to remove the intake manifold for that task, i had them put in new platinum plugs. I'm not looking forward to changing the fuel filter, but it should be easy, i hope it helps.
YES, there's definitely something you can do.....get a new vehicle! A lot has happened in vehicles in the past 12 years. One of these things is the very significant advances in efficiency. Besides, 12 years is the perfect time frame to turn your car around before really expensive repairs start. You don't have to purchase new, anything past 2011 or 2012 will be much better. Engines have gotten smaller yet more powerful than ever with new technology, look at ECO boost, turbo charged, and generally speaking better built cars. Most cars are made by robots now. All of these factors are key. How many miles on this car? I would seriously consider flipping into a younger model right now.
One more thing, CVT transmissions get MUCH BETTER mileage. Why? They always keep the engine and transmission in the sweetest spot for efficiency.
Sounds like Markw IS my local Ford dealer! Lol
CVT transmissions? As in Saturn Ion? I'll pass...
ba63-. You're referring to a car that only had a four year life cycle, 2003 to 2007... Yes, the Saturn Ion CVTs were crap, and so are some Mitsubishi and Nissan cars. I was thinking more on the way of Volvo and Subaru.
Subaru has been building CVTs since 2010 and that's not even their first go around. When you compare a car that has been out since 1995 continuously like the Outback to a Saturn car which is now a defunct company, well, there's no comparison.
Yes, I understand that some of the Japanese made CVT are very good and reliable. The Saturn CVT was a joint project between GM and Fiat, so there you go. I am not aware that (if) Ford currently offers any CVTs. If so, it would be interesting to know what models have them and from where they are sourced, along with "how they doin' ?" I think that the CVT in the Saturns did a lot of PR damage to a car line that was probably doomed internally anyway. I remember the old Subaru Justy of the late 1980s offered a CVT, but I never heard good nor bad about it in all these years. Personally, the CVTs scare the hell out of me as far as owning one, but my wife '16 Beetle Convertible has a DSG that equally scares the hell out of me, but it wasn't my call. Personally, I don't mind spending alittle more on fuel cost, especially on a vehicle that has no loan on it. I do 95% of my own repair work, so I tend to judge a "good car" based on how easy they are to work on and how readily available and cheap the parts supply is to obtain rather than how often a mechanical issue arise. For some reason, I tend to have ill luck with brands that the mainstream would define as an "excellent car"; particularly Hondas, the few I have owned were not been stellar performers! For some reason, American and European cars seem to do well for me and suit my needs best. I have always said, I could probably get 500,000 reliable miles out of a Chrysler Sebring, but I don't have the nerve to try it!
I don't have an answer, and I am totally stumped and I have stumped a couple mechanics. Son has 2005 Ford Escape with 126000 miles on it. I have driven it, he drives it regularly. It is only getting 13 miles to the gallon. I have had 2 separate mechanics at different shops hook it up to their computers. There are zero error codes, everything is running to "specs" as they put it. They don't have answers. Heres what I have done; Replaced plugs and coil packs, replaced fuel filter, put in a K&N air filter, oil change is up to date. Run different types of fuel system cleaners. Trying a catalyst cleaner to see if it helps clean out carbon. Someone suggested O2 sensors. But at 5-600 dollars just to do upstream sensors and may not be the problem, is not an answer I am looking for.
John, You can buy kits containing all the o2 sensors for as little as $40 (4 cylinder) and $70 (6 cylinder) from ebay. O2 sensor wrench can be picked up from AutoZone basically for free (loan a tool). These sensors screw in on one side and plug in on the other (tons of youtube vids for help). If you can change a spark plug, you can do this job.
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