why does my blower motor wires keep melting?
any ideas on why my blower motor wires keep melting and how to fix this problem permanently?
i've already replaced the blower motor resistor, tried grounding it out on the chassis which just resulted in the blower motor staying on even with the switch off...
Check the amperage draw on the blower motor itself, it sounds like they are too high, most likely a bad motor or something is rubbing the blower wheel internally.
oh forgot to mention ive already replaced the motor with an aftermarket brand which did the exact same thing... anyone know what guage wire the blower motor wire uses? might just hardwire it to the battery with a fuse & cutoff switch...
and in the fuse panel there is a fuse for blower which is 10 amps...
When you replaced the motor did you inspect the blower wheel and housing for and wear marks or obstructions? The blower motor should run no less than 10 gauge wiring. Now if your wanting to rewire the circuit I would find a lighted heater blower switch, that way it would be lit when the blower is running plus it will give you a control over the speeds, they make a full rotary and a switch that has stepped speeds like low medium and high, you don't want to forget it and have it kill your battery if you direct. Now you could wire it with a relay that will be driven with a key powered source but battery power on the load side and would cure a battery discharge problem, a good relay can handle 40 amps on the load side then you could run the 10 gauge wire for the motor and relay ground and small stuff for relay activation wiring from the key and ground. As this is a Hyundai you must shield all of this auxiliary wiring and make sure you use the battery as both power and ground connections, do not drill a hole and use a body panel for ground, doing so may cause a feedback and you could get interference in the radio and some pulsation in the lighting. HTH
OK here is my draw up for my circuit.. im assuming that the blower motor pulls 30 amps or less
Looks good but I thing that 4 gauge is overkill, 10 gauge will work all the way through and be eaiser to solder on connectors and shrink wrap.
4 awg is just to support the the maximum 100 amp fuse box as the manufacturer recommends 6-4 guage wire... other than that 10-12-14 guage wires for each connected accessory..
UGGH sure seems like overkill too me though.
id rather over kill it than to have melting wires.. had hyundai over killed it we wouldn't be having this conversation...
new draw up... you think connecting a 20 amp relay to the current fan wires will allow me to use my built in fan switch at least to signal on & off?
Only if the stock switch has an off/on point. Usually those are just grounding units not meant for full power. Remember both way you have it drawn will only give you high soeed on the blower, if you want variable you will have to wire one in on the hot wire that feeds the blower motor.
have a link for this variable speed switch? can't seem to find one thats meant for DIYers..
reason i ask is that the fan switch is what turns the entire system on...
so if fan switch just grounds it could wire problem be caused by faulty blower switch?
No, it grounds a relay that turns on the system then also controls blower speeds through the ballast resistor. Check the wiring diagram for the blower switch and see if it is a mulit- function switch, if it is you can use it to feed a ground signal to your main power relay then all you would need is a variable speed motor control rheostat to control motor speeds. Or just stick with your plan and wire in a blower motor speed control switch. Check out Ebay for heater blower switches, I have used the one that has the cream colored knob on it, you pull it out for blow speeds, the one I got had 2 speeds, but there are others like the big red ones but they get fairly hot when running at lower speeds so they must be open mounted, well both of them need to be open mounted as they do run very warm. Hope this didn't confuse you again.Your on the right path just put a speed switch in the power wire that feeds the blower motor and you will have a circuit. Now these speed switches will stink when first fired up but it will go away in a few minutes. HTH
either way the wire that keeps melting for some odd ball reason still gets 12v to power the motor.. if i connect that to my relay to signal my new power source to turn on... then put the fan speed switch between the relay and the blower.. this way i can leave the speed set on 1 thing and it still turns off and on via the same switch that turns the rest of the system on
Does it look like this? Is it 10g wire running to the clip? I'm trying to make a bypass for the clip.
so when it melts the plugs, where are you finding replacements? i've got the same problem and need a new plug. i think i've found the factory replacement, but i'm not sure it's the right one.
I'm having the same problem. Has anyone found where to buy a new clip?
My car did the same thing I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent SE. I replace the end of the wire and plugged it back in but a spark occurred during the process now my car will not start
I just tried something a couple days ago. I was at a parts yard called u-pull u-save and i looked at 10 2006-2011 hyundai accents. To no avail, i discovered all of them were burnt up ir heading there with browning plastic. So i gave up. On my way out i seen a 2008 kia optima so with one last glint of hope i pulled the heater motor out and it was clean and new looking so i cut the wire with plug and took it to a 2007 hyundai accent and it bolted up, lined up and the wire was not long enough as it plugged in an inch away from original location but the plug was the same. So i had already cut and spliced my melted plug in my 06 accent now i just made the wire longer by adding some (not stretching it lol). And this fan works 3x better. It doesnt heat up, ive run it for several hours on solid 12v black and red wire tied together. Now i have the speed selector in the heater control as a used one, it twists and popps out the back after you press down on the security release button then it will spin and come out. That part is also what melts as the factory fans wear out. Everything works well and is going strong. You just have to do a quality job of wiring up the new/used parts. But it is only day 3. Does the kia optima motor fail at some point? Im not sure but after 3 fan and selector replacements im hoping this does the job