I went to have my 2008 Chevy Cobalt inspected 5/4 and it said it failed, possible cause, battery disconnection. Drove car 300 miles and went on 5/8 to get inspected again. done the same thing. It says no code results. So now I'm totally confused. Please help
Has your car been taken to the dealer to fix all the re-calls? there are several, and if they were not done MAYBE has something to do with this. http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2008/chevrolet/cobalt/recalls/
I had the ignition switch done in January at the dealership. I just replaced the front impact sensor. Would that have anything to do with it
Eh, probably not. Don't see how it would.
Are you doing a Calif. emissions test...or an inspection from another State? I don't understand either why it would fail, if your CEL is not lit and no DTC fault codes are thrown. Please understand I don't know very much about the Cobalt, that was just a guess. Hopefully somebody that does know will chip in here. Otherwise I can do some research IF you are talking Calif. I have to be gone for about a half hour
Ok, No I'm in Texas, do you think it could be that since I replaced the Front Impact Sensor I have to get the codes reset or something of that sort. And thanks for the help
Also I replaced the battery about 7 months ago and the car starts fine but if I was to sit with radio on for 15 minutes my battery dies. Had battery checked, alternator checked all is good. so I wonder if this could some how be part of the problem.
Ya know what, I just don't know. The reason I asked is I do know about Calif. inspections, which are not really even inspections, you can take it in for the test to register every 2 years, or 5 on new cars, but you can come in with a busted windshield, no taillights and bald tires and pass. All the State wants is emissions levels..unlike a lot of States. They leave the other stuff to the CHP to get you pulled over for everything else. Sorry my friend I am no help.
Check the ALDL connector under the dash. It may be dirty or have a wire backed out of the plug assembly. This is the plug that the inspector plugs into. I can't imagine that the readiness monitors have not reset since you replaced the battery back in January. But it is remotely possible if you keep your gas tank full or very low. To get the readiness monitors to set the gas tank must be between 3/4 and 1/4 full. No more and no less. You can sneak through with 1 and only 1 readiness monitors not set. Let it be the EVAP system one. It's the hardest to set! Go to your local auto parts store and have them try to scan it. See what happens. Most stores will do it for free. I suspect a bad ALDL connector, but let's see. HTH. -Jim
Jim to the rescue. Way good information.
Hi Fordnut. Thank you. -Jim
Well I was down to a 1/2 tank when I took it in yesterday, I usually fill it back up when I get down to 3/4 or little below. But I will check the wiring. And if it is a bad ALDL connector, that's a dealership item I take it?
I'm thinking that this may be why it didn't reset because for the last 5 days I didn't have it below 3/4 for more than a few miles because of my job and they said that since I disconnected the battery to replace front impact sensor right before I took it in the first time I would have to drive it at least 50 miles to get everything set to ready.
That's a good possibility. See what the auto parts store scan tells us. Then keep the gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 for about a week if the readiness monitors are not set. If it turns out to be the ALDL connector then yes, it's going to be a dealer item. HTH. -Jim
I took it awhile back to O'Reillys when I had a check engine light on which turned out to be a throttle position sensor and needless to say I had to replace the complete throttle body, but anyway they couldn't even get a reading of the codes. But going to go check the wiring on ALDL and see if needs to be cleaned. And I will keep it above 1/4 and below 3/4 for a week and then take back to auto parts and see if the scan will work and see if any fault codes come up, because surely if theirs work then it should work for the inspector. But they may refuse to do it if check engine light isn't on. Thanks very much for your help. Will let you know in a week the turn out. I never had this much confusion out of a Chevrolet. What happened to the days of old, lol.
Ya know you can buy a good scanner for $45 (Amazon). An Actron CP9550. I have a CP9580a and haven't figured out how to use half of it--yet. The PID's are giving me fits, but I will 'get' it http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9550-PocketScan-Plus/dp/B003IOITIK
I have had my gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 all week so I'm going to go take my car in to an auto parts to have them run a scan. If the check engine light isn't on then what do I tell them is the reason for the scan. If you can help Js08016.
Tell them it was on earlier and you're due for inspection. You want to make sure that nothings wrong before you go for inspection. HTH. - Jim
Ok great, I hate to keep blowing smoke but if their machine is working how would I know if everything is set to ready. Or if something isn't working then it would give a code right? I just want to make sure all my bases are covered. Because when the inspector did it, it said no codes present.
If anything was amiss the check engine light would have come on again, by now. The readiness monitors are set. The only one that might not have set is the one for the EVAP system. It's the hardest one. But that's ok. You can sneak through, under Federal Law, with one and only one readiness monitor not set. If you still can't get a reading it'll have to be the ALDL connector under the dash. HTH. -Jim
Well I went to a auto parts to have the scan tool put on and they could not get any reading. So when I replace the ALDL connector do I have to have it reprogrammed. And can I replace the connector myself.
Have you tried cleaning the connector and inspecting it for backed out or damaged wires? If the connector has to be replaced no programming should be needed. You should be able to change it yourself. HTH. -Jim
Yes, there were no backed out wires, 6 wires is all I seen and didn't see any loose wires. The connector itself looked cleaned but I blew it out. I appreciate all your help but I just don't understand how the connector goes bad when all it is, is a connector, unless the wires inside the connector are bad. But who am I to say, I know nothing when it comes electrical connections. Thanks for all your help Jim. I will check the connector once more. But I think the results will be the same. To replace the connector I will have to disconnect the neg battery post, then wait another week for the monitors to reset correct?
Yes, that's correct. You're welcome. Glad to help. I'm very sorry that we didn't find a solution. Perhaps it's time to seek out a professional service facility who can physically see and diagnose the car. Sometimes it's just not possible to get it right long distance. Once again, I'm very sorry. Good luck with this and when you do find out the solution please let us know. It will be a great help to others in the future. -Jim
well I will replace the ALDL cause like you said with no check engine light on then that could be the only other issue. I will give update soon. GIG
Well I went to the Chevrolet dealership and one guy came out and hooked up a big scan tool that does it all and he didn't get a reading either. So I asked him if it could be the ALDL connector and he responded no because it wouldn't have even turned on the scan tool if that was the problem. And he also said to really diagnose the problem is to have a diagnostics done. So I'm scheduled to go back Tuesday morning and praying it's a simple fix. But I know Gods abundant favor is on my side so I'm believing it will be. Will be back with an update soon. GIG.-Len
Ok, thanks for the update! I'm very curious as to what they find out! - Jim
OK I went and the diagnostics and what they did was secûre ALDL DATA CIRCUIT TERMINAL. And said READ SERIAL DATA-ALL OBD TEST PASSED. It also says NO INTERVAL DUE-VEHICLE INDICATES NO MAINTENANCE INTERVAL DUE...NIDB NO INTERVAL DUE BASIC. The guy I was speaking to took off before I was finish speaking to him. But does this mean its working, He said it was but he isn't the one that worked on my car. GIG-Len
Yes, it's working. Sounds good! - Jim
Great, thanx.- Len
You're welcome. Glad to help. Thank you very much for letting us know the outcome! -Jim
Looking for a Used Cobalt in your area?
CarGurus has 3,631 nationwide Cobalt listings starting at $1,800.
Search Chevrolet Cobalt Questions
Chevrolet Cobalt Experts