why would a 2000 Honda Accord crank but not start sometimes?


Asked by Dec 14, 2015 at 05:49 PM about the 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Hi everyone, I’m hoping to get some help with a 2000 Honda Accord V6 EX

I change the oil regularly in this car and I replaced the battery in August 2014.
I’d never had a problem with this car until back in June 2015 on a very hot day
when I went to start it and the engine would not start. It was cranking and
cranking and the starter was smooth, there were no knocks or anything out of
the ordinary, the car just wouldn’t start. I started checking various things on
the car, not really knowing what to do. After around 30 minutes I tried to start
the car and it started up and ran completely fine. I didn’t change anything or
mess with anything on the car. It just started.

This happened around twice a month until September and then I didn’t have
the problem for a couple of months. It’s now December 2015, and the problem
has returned. But now it is more common and happens almost every time I try
to start the engine. But so far, it always starts if I wait 30 minutes or maybe a
bit longer.

Important info:

I work from home and drive this car twice a week at the most. It sits for days at
a time without being started. But this has been the case for the past 4 years
and this probelm didn’t start happening until June 2015.

There is no movement on the tachometer when the car cranks but won’t start.

The green key light doesn’t constantly blink when they key is turned. It blinks a
few times then stops blinking.

The check engine light isn’t on and there are no other lights on.

When the car runs, it runs smoothly and I’ve never had a problem with it
cutting off or acting strange.

Once the car starts and I drive it for even around 5 minutes, I can turn it off and
then start it again immediately without a problem. I’ve never tried to start the
car, then immediatley turn it off, then start it again so I don’t know if it would
start in that situation.

It’s been kind of warm for this time of year where I live (North Carolina). It’s
been around 70 degrees outside this week.

I removed the cover over the fuel pump in the trunk. I don’t think there’s any
sound coming from the fuel pump when I turn the key on. I can’t hear it
priming (if that’s the correct term). But when I let the car sit for 30 minutes and
turn the key to on, I can’t hear anything then either, and the car still starts right

I took the car to a garage, but the car was starting then. I let it sit there for
around two hours maybe three and went back, but the car started right up, so
the mechanic told me he couldn’t do anything if the car was starting. I mean
he said he would try some stuff, but he seemed kind of stumped himself. I
didn’t want to start paying him money to just “try some stuff.” But I might have
to do that.

Anyone have any advice? I really appreciate you taking the time to read this.

4 Answers


You need 3 things for it to run. Fuel, spark (ignition), and compression. You have compression or it wouldn't run at all, ever. Get a can of starting fluid and when it refuses to start spray some down the throttle body. If it runs a few seconds on the starting fluid, it's a fuel problem. If not it's an ignition problem. I'm betting it's a dying fuel pump. They'll sometimes work for awhile, then quit, then work, and so on. HTH. -Jim

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Just as Js08016 says, or possibly even a clogged filter sock on the end of the fuel pump, but if you are going to change the pump, get a new filter for it as well. The job is easy enough to do your self through the back seat or the trunk, which could save you a lot of $$. I own this same car and found it to be quite temper mental, especially with the voltage and the fuel & certain parts of the emissions system. There is a service bulletin about an EGV valve and air passage service & repair that involves buying a kit, that has a new EGR valve and a steel sleeve. You remove the EGR valve, upper & lower intake manifolds. Then the air passage needs to be drilled out with a 10MM bit and then tap the new sleeve into the hole. This was developed because the air passages were found to be too small on these engines and the carbon builds up bad and causes a lot of problems with starting and running, and these problems do not always trip the Engine Maint. lights.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

If anyone else is having this problem, I changed the pgm-fi main relay a few days ago. My car hasn’t had a problem starting since. If my car starts acting up again with the same problem, I’ll be sure to come here and update, but I’m pretty sure the problem has been solved.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Great tip! Here are some links about that problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVxOQTSPyGY https://www.google.com/search?q=pgm- fi+main+relay&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUK Ewjhu5L20OrJAhXDWCYKHSH- DEoQsAQIJg&biw=1024&bih=719#imgrc=_ http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/pgm-fi- relay-bad-2544200/

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

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