2003 ford explorer no crank no start
I would suggest testing the small wire on the the starter solenoid to see that there is voltage going down to the solenoid on the starter, when someone turns the key to start. (a test light would work fine) Its possible the ignition switch is bad when you turn the key to the start position. Also make sure your battery connections are clean and tight, and that the cables are in good shape.
well you know I am prey good at fixing things. This Explorer is broke down at a church. I have job there and when I went to bring an employee home the truck turned over for about ten seconds. I let off the ignition. ( This vehicle has always cranked immediately ) When I tried to turn over again, it would not do anything. Had two mechanics from Ford dealerships look at it. one has 32 years in the auromotive parts and service depattment. His specialty was truobleshooting wiring systems. i believed he would be able to find the problem. Both left perplexed. I had a friend come.run a system check. it would not throw any codes at all. His machine is very expensive but would not read. so after working 34 hours in two days I myself figured I would fix. I ran a wire to solenoid with clip. i checked when key was completely turned. nothing. hooked to battery. turned over but wouldn't start. sprayed ether and hit starter. the truck dcranked an ran until ether was gone. any more to do out ther
So you got the starter to work, and engine fired up when spraying starting fluid in it. This is telling me you are not getting power to the small wire on the starter, and the problem is also not allowing power to the fuel pump and injectors. This could very well be related to the ignition switch. Try this, just go out and turn the key to the on position, and listen to see if you can hear the fuel pump. You should be able to hear it prime up and stop. If you don't the fuel pump also is not getting power.
I've done what you stated. Believe me every wire has been traced and tested. Been under it to listen for fuel pump. I did hear it, doesn't necessarily mean the pressure is consistent or at proper levels. I am told if a vehicle requires 34 lbs of pressure and the fuel pump is only able to produce twenty, a sensor shuts the vehicle down. Do you know this to be true? I have gauges I'm putting on it today. Hopefully thats the problem.
Yes, I was going to get to all that, lack of fuel pressure. But how do you figure this affected the starter? I have never heard of problems with the fuel system causing the starter not to work. Everything else you said, yes.
I am not sure this is so. A relative owns the company responsible for keeping alot of fleet vehicles on the highway. Del Poppa, Budweiser, Walmart to name a few. I am inclined to believe what he says. He is an awesome mechanic and that is where i got this info. If fuel pressure is not within range, off by five lbs. either way, a sensor shuts the onboard computer down. But, if this were absolutely so, i shouldn't have been able to start it using ether. Do you share in this opinion?
No, not quite, it shuts the injectors down. Fuel pump still runs. Its the computer that shuts certain things down, power runs from the computer to the ignition control module to have allowed it to fire. But the injectors are shut down dew to the sensor telling the computer to do so. Lack of fuel pressure.
so I should check ignition switch. This is causing no power to solenoid? once that problem is solved, check the pressure in the injector lines. If it is correct, do you have suggestions?
See this way when there is something wrong with the fuel system, your not flooding the engine when trying to start it. The computer is what controls the sensors, not the other way around.
Now your on the right track. Need to find out why there is no power to the small wire to the starter when trying to start. But so you have checked fuel pressure? Because if it is out of range, it will not start.
I have these parts stores that I use on line, and I didn't mention this before because I couldn't find this for your vehicle. If there is a starter relay in the fuse box, that could cause the starter not to be able to get power threw the small wire.
Looking again and all they say is a Multi Purpose Relay, and a Standard Relay. It is possible one of these relays in the fuse box is bad.
Iahave not checked the pressure yet. The vehicle is at a local church I've been doing a remodel on. I have three jobs within a mile range, commercial at that. I didn't get off til five am, went in at two pm yesterday. when I got off this morning, I had it running. Was not very enthused at this time. IM planning on working on it as soon as I arrive today. I get really frustrated trying to figure certain problems but refuse to pay someone else to do something im capable of doing. i will not leave without it being drove home. sorry to get into all that. I just been putting in seventy hours week and done have time to deal with it. I appreciate the info and will l let you know what happens.
I took each relay out. I removed the cover to inspect internal parts of each. When I said I've been through it, I don't believe I've missed to much. all relays good. fuses good. don't know with sensors. Any way to check?
There are specs on electrical parts, I have no lists, I find at the time what info I need, BUT Auto Zone is a good source to have things checked like that.
took the key and ring and had tested. still no further along. eliminated the ignition system. it's all ok. key diode good. I'm really confused with it all. going to dealership in am.
Check the fuel pressure.
Have you had someone with an engine analyzer-live test-see if the PCM can be connected to the computer? If the analyzer will not read the PCM you have to determine why.
I brought to Kinsel Ford. This is what the service department found. The diode in the key was good. They had to replace the sensor ring that reads key. Part is thirty dollars. It's one thirty five to program. The fuel relay had been removed but not replaced. So I had to replace it. The issue now is, the started fuse only last for about five to eight cranks. Then it must be replaced. It keeps popping. I'm not exactly sure what to do about that. The price to pick up was only 291.00 I was ecstatic about that. I figured around 1500 to 2000. Any advice
If the fuse which controls the starter blows, not immediately, but after a while it means the starter is drawing more amperage than the fuse rating. Remove the starter and bring it to a place like Autozone who can test it. Explain to them the problem and they can tell you how many amps the starter is drawing.
i thought on a ford they would still crank over even if you had a key that wasn't programed im having same problem
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