2004 Explorer Dead after alternator and battery replaced


Asked by Sep 02, 2015 at 10:18 PM about the 2004 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V6 AWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

My son's father got him a 2004 explorer in
April, the same month I replaced the
battery. And this past week I had to have
the transmission rebuilt. The day I picked it
up the check charging system warning and
battery light came on. I had it tested at the
place where I got the battery and the battery
tested good and the alternator had no
voltage. I had the alternator replaced
yesterday. My son drove it to school today
and home after football. We went to eat and
an hour later it wouldn't start. Jumped it off
and had it tested again at the auto parts
store and everything checks out fine. What
should I be looking for?

10 Answers

Sterling Grinnell

ok ok if you jump it the truck runs. if you let it set it went dead but it sat at his school and it started right away. hmmmm there are some things to check. are there any lights on on the dash? if no what is the voltage with the truck running at the battery. I'm thinking if the alt was replaced the wires might not be tight. it could be also a ground on the block that is loose and or one by the battery. check these first.


Yes. It sat all night and started this am. And then started again this afternoon after sitting at school. The alternator voltage is 11.8 and the battery is registering 900cca.


With the engine running that alternator voltage is too low. Should be around 14 volts. What about the amps? How many amps is the alternator putting out? I'm thinking you may have a defective alternator. Is the battery light on with the engine running? HTH. -Jim


The slip from the testing reads: SStarter Test results cranking normal voltage: 11.38v amps:0.0 time 1.07s Charging system test results no problems no load 13.46v loaded 13.35v Battery light is not on. It started this morning for him to drive to school. I am just afraid sending him out in a vehicle that isn't acting normal.


How do I know amps? On the test slip there are no amps results


First check the voltage of the battery with the car not running. It should measure somewhere around 12.5 volts. If it is low charge the battery with a charger. Also check all the connections at the battery, especially where the wires connect to the terminals that connect to the battery itself for corrosion. I had my neighbor, who is a mechanic at a Ford dealership, pick me up a new motorcraft alternator when mine went bad. I installed the alternator and had the same problem. He came over and checked the battery and discovered it was low. The battery was relatively new. With the engine running he checked the alternator and it showed it was charging at 10.5 volts. He explained this way. The alternator is not designed to charge a low battery, it is designed to top it off. Adding jumping a vehicle with a low battery then attempting to charge it with the alternator could damage the electronic components in the alternator. He charged the battery over night, checked all the components, then again used a multi-meter to check. The battery was at 12.5 volts and the alternator was not charging at over 14 volts.


correction. The alternator was NOW charging at over 14 volts.


Sounds like you may have bad connections if Battery is charging and Alternator is putting out 14v. Start at the battery; tighten both cables and follow them to where they attach at the other end and make sure they are tight there also. Go to alternator and do the same thing with the wires and plugs. If any plug is loose, you can tighten them with needle nose pliers.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

The amp test should be part of the alternator output test. HTH. -Jim


There has also been times when the starter/(cylonoid) are not working properly and will continuously draw and drain power until it kills the battery.... just a thought

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