2001 gmc jimmy fule system problem
I just replaced the fule pump in my 2001 gmc jimmy I ran it out of gas it wouldn't start put the new fule pump in and it started up. after I ran it to the gas station turned it off fuled up tried fireing it back up it wouldn't start. 15 mins later it did. this is how the thing is all the time now how do I get it to stop or what is wrong.
Is it correct to say, cranks but wont start, when hot, after hot soak? (refuel) no start. Sits for 15min then restarts? you need to know if during the event you lose spark temporary or fuel temporary. losing spark cancels fuel by design. thus far, I would suspect loss of spark. like sensor and module heat related issue could be looked for and tests run while its acting up.
Yes after running it for no matter what. Of time
intermittent connection failure ? part drops out due to conditions but comes back intermittent unexplained? you can listen to the pump power up 1-1&1/2 sec, then stop with key on, then does it fail to run again while cranking? Then do you have spark going to a plug, any spark plug while a helper attempts to start during the event?
Yes no matter how long I run it after I turn it off it cranks but didn't fire over didn't even act like it wants to ! What module or sensor should I be looking for
Next, what service codes are cluing you in. The OBD II can be read for codes due to fuel or misfire, or loss of data from sensors. the code indicates a repair section in a service manual that defines tests to run. those tests help the tech differentiate and gives him parameters to compare test data to determine pass or fail for items that come under that code, conditions generally that can affect, and googling it can lead you to sites that illustrate and simplify testing. you can use a public library source if the parts house does not want to go thru it with you or lend it to you. but generally they will let you get a read on your code or codes and the general indication. Replacing things at that point is not the action to take until you actually determine a failed part. A/C delco and Delphi parts last longest and fit perfectly. they cost less since repeat failure is not the norm.
One website that comes to mind is enginecodes.com. you can also try search by symptom. google cranks but wont start,the year, the vehicle, the engine after running. but restarts after waiting. or words to that effect. This can take you to illustrated testing and ideas about the most likely causes as engine codes . com would just list data for a tech.
If it will run to go to any parts store or shop, thats what you need to read your code and have it defined, system prechecks first, you can read a haynes or chilton and look at those pics to accomplish prechecks. the library always has GM books or reference as well as autodatabase like a shop has. that would save lotsa money. I wont guess fix it because you must see it and verify the inspections to prevent jumping to the wrong guess.
If you need things like connection repair and vacuum line or to test fuel pressure and know the parameters and precautions remember pressure and volume are both important and part stores can get you a tester. but just if that's what's indicated. a DVOM is the meter you may need to run pinpoint tests. Nowadays every real technician at least has one although it may not be high quality. that can be important to keep from having erroneous readings from worn test lead resistance etc. a successful tech knows the self checks and runs a fresh battery in his meter. You can generally test the tech recommended by a parts house, or the guys at GM, but for emissions purposes it can be helpful to ask the emissions authority to recommend a certified tech they monotor.
Excuse my typo's but ask lotsa questions and make smart decisions. ask about how to get OEM brand replacement parts. even a used A/C delco part can be better than a cheapo thats new.
Remember, the engine trans in use is importasnt as well as the build date or VIN when looking things up. knowingwhat ignition type and fuel delivery system is in use and being able to describe it can be important. You say 91 and i am thinking v8 and auto trans. those like to toast a picup coil and module and need an a/c delco part for best results. the distributor can be replaced but with what? some chinese thing? no, i would wait and rebuild it with the right parts. mark the gear noting where the general put a circle on the side lining up with the direction the rotor points. The ashes inside need cleaned out and perhaps the cap towers, or a new cap and rotor, even wires can have hi resistance. you want 5K ohms per foot, and a/c delco plugs. Deviating leads to awe and wonder as it continually has more intermittents added and a cloud of diagnostic mystery each time it quits. use the good stuff.
Now I read 2001 for a model year in your question. make up your mind. Make, model, year, engine size, trans type, Vin number figure out what you are working on, make up your mind, document your data, write your codes, google and read, learn about it, use your head. be consistent or just tow it to mr. good wrench. then delete the responses to the false erroneous info that was with this question before. Or swim overseas and join your brothers against us. unfortunately nowadays the enemy lives on your street and we are all supposed to weep for it. waaa. The build date is listed on the drivers jamb as you enter and exit the vehicle...found it yet? I am going to look later to see if you have your basic vehicle information yet. ttfn.
So far I read 2003, then 91, then 2001. is your girlfriend typing this, then changing it and changing it back? or are you a commie? or what, maybe just vision and typographically impaired like me, I digress, cu after dinner.
That is what it said from the beginning 2001 and I'm going through everything you are telling me but quite frankly I'm not a mechanic and I'm doing what I can to fix this problem I just don't have all of the tools or money at my disposal! Your giving a lot of info very fast thank you this is all very helpful!
2001 gmc jimmy sle 4.3 vortex v6
Weird, at different times I went to the question and the info changed at the top of the page, allright google for that with the symptom and the code. the websites already exist to try and help, illustrate, show diagrams, or place the test leads. gooluck.
Remember about system prechecks, condition, and judgement. ask every question and feel confident before replacing things. the inputs and outputs must be there or find out why, that's what a tech does. The computer or the library depending where you are, but the parts store for test equipment. I cannot look at it for you but the people you show it to can help you inspect check things and or run tests.
When you get it running we can shoot it green, hahaha
You suggest it lost spark, did you verify that? You need to get your code(s) did you get to someplace to read codes? If you get a haynes or chilton to start checking things for easy stuff, look up recalls and bulletins that may pertain, they must be out of the way or they can stop you and have you take it in. ck bk later.
Some of those had fuel delivery issue on top the engine, the squid shooter. It can be intermittent, work and not work. some people call it a spider but a 6 cyl has six injectors, not 8. They had some issues, extended its warranty as I recall. you need to research that as spider injectors if so equipped. I did hear of intermittent fuse issues, that was a similar use in an izusu. same basic engine. yours being an '01, it seems after a decade there would be new info or a change to the parts in use on yours, I dont know. for definite. but I will look
poppet style injectors they were called with the "fuelspider" design. They may drip and lose fuel into the cylinder. even tho spark is verified, the fuel present can wash the rings out. a decrease in compression makes it difficult to start and the engine turns more freely without resistance and you can hear and feel a difference. the fuel evaporates some, then you could get a restart. this is a theory and is sorta untested except in discussion with folks who have the problem with theirs. The fuel usage on the vehicle may pencil out to poor fuel economy. the exhaust may smoke on start up, and the plugs may be carbon fouled eventually. The evaporation is the time factor for the hot soak restart. if all these conditions are verified on yours, you must answer all my crazy questions about the trucjk so far and try the simple ways it can be meesed up. if this fuel poppet injector issue is definite, the prblem keeps recurring, the cal resources board has a discussion that was happenning with gm about the fuel economy and the emissions, what have you. and mr. goodwrench could be your obi wan kenobi. (from a certain point of view) and you must seek nader. I hope they are offering replaceable spider thingy's for yours still if it is there in use and causing your issue. May the force be with you, always padowan.
Dont get me wrong tho, nader is not your father. you need all the tests verifications and simple stuff out of the way, and recalls and bulletins always supercede engineering discussion. a warranty cushion was reportedly extended around those I speak of and mr. goodwrench must be consulted, please excuse my time in the dagobah system.
feel free to list your answers to all the questions so far. I can read up on any newer info in the meantime.
I googled, 4.3L fuel injector replacement parts. Theres part sources there and even a conversion to multiport from csfi. www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/vortec_spider_fuel_injection_conversio n you can see where this would take you, small parts, the whole unit, or a redesign by a fuel specialist company. this is why it is important to have all the other stuff checked to be sure whats really needed. mr. goodwrench would be your best bet to determine and you can discuss things as he has them arise in actuality. You can find out what fixes them simply, and read up on any options you might entertain. I suppose it may depend upon the cost. If the Gvrrmt has made GM take some action, or whether it has to be customer pay. I am not the answer man for that. I think it might come up as an emission recal though if they have a successful fix and the cal resources board ever determined something. this as far as I need to go, but I will ck bk 2c if u hav som info tmrrw.
Oh, leakdown fuel test may need to be run to find the rate of pressure decrease if in fact I have told you right, and there is no other issue on your actual engine.
another thing to look at, is there a change in condition of warning lights? Is there any unmentioned indications during the no start event? things that would happen normally but arent during the event? or the other way round? do you smell gas ? how about under the hood when its acting up and you open the hood? Does your engine oils smell like fuel? if so, must change it before continuing. Is your regulator out of spec? malfunctions during fuel testing and with engine running? these are the reasons you may need mr. goodwrench. rather than funding someones education, you need the opinion of the educated, and the experience to take the right steps, or stop, in the right order. he can tell you whats fixin em, or point you to a recommendation, who knows? maybe your financial decision is trade it for a horse, i dont know.
You picked all the junk and water in tank.new fuel filter.I can dry gas
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