I have a 96 Chevy that won't start has gas but no spark ? Idk how it has new plugs wires and new cap and rotor I have no idea any more I'm down to one vehicle which is not a good thing

Asked by Nov 27, 2015 at 06:48 PM about the 1996 Chevrolet C/K 1500 Silverado Standard Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

8 Answers


So it was running after you changed the plugs, wires, cap & rotor? Or is this what you tried to do to get it going?

No I did a full tune up after the fact and I still have no spark I have no idea why its mind boggling

I was driving down the road at 70mph and it just fell on its face and wouldn't start back up ,any ideas why ?????


The coil or the ignition control module may have taken a dump. These can be tested at most auto parts stores.Now I am just going off of what you are saying, like how do you know you have gas coming threw? You can't see the injectors if fuel is coming threw. See, your fuel pump could have taken a dump also, you would have to check fuel pressure at the Schrater valve which should be 56 to 62 lbs. So also how do you know you have spark?

I have a brand new fuel pump in itand when I plug up my fuel pressure tester it has 60 pounds of pressure but I still have no spark and I don't know why there's a brand new coil on it and I just went out and bought this morning and I also boughta brand new ignition this morning too so I have no idea what is the problem?


Ok, fuel pressure is good. New ignition control module? Did you have them check the old one? No matter now if you installed it. Now there is a pick-up coil in the distributor that the wire will break internally which would cause no spark. Also check to see if you have 12V at the coil. And also check all your fusees, I don't think it is there but never know.


fuel pump fuse? fuel pump relay? fuel pump connectors "fell off"? fuel pump regulator (its inside the upper manifold next to the spider assembly)? bad ground(S)? generator wiring or wiring to coil came off/corroded? since you do have fuel pressure..look to see if you get a spark ...either a spark light,, there are cheap at oreilly's or can do the old school "gap" check...just be careful around any vapors. I have this intuition, you are not getting any power to your plugs...then you start the above troubleshooting methods...do the easy ones first, naturally, then others...fuse check, relay check....another thing to check, and this is just a pure chance check, but one I have found that works often...unhook the battery, no power for 10 minutes...then rock the car while in neutral just a little, while it is in motion, not fast ok, just enough to rotate the crank a little, then really quick before it stops rolling put it in a gear, any..then hook battery back up...and see what happens...if this solves you issue, it indicates that somehow the crank sensor is off, or that the car stored some type of code error...its very important after you do this to "relearn" the pcm with a specific drive cycle...you can research how to do this with google..I don't recall the specifics. You also want to have a active live scan tool reading to pull any codes..the cheap "non- live" scan tools are not adequate to truly assess performance and error related problems...particularly true for fuel, trim, transmission, and emissions, issues. good luck...hopefully, you find it's something simple...the main thing I want to leave advise is this: if you get it "fixed", you want to understand what caused the failure...often a "fix" is considered good enough...if you don't learn what caused the failure, you are doomed to have it happen again, or worse, crop up somewhere else


The crank sensor would be something to check out. Possible...

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