96 Chevy silverado My check gauges light came on while I was driving and truck lost all motor power?
I got to looking and my timing has
jumped 180 degrees. The truck will
crank, it's getting fuel, acts like it's
going to turn over then won't turn all
the way over. Any help?
After 20 years, a timing chain issue? plausible. be sure you are looking at it when both valves are closed on #1 cyl for base engine diagnosis about timing. Rock back and forth to view #degrees crank turns to the movement starts at distrib. Chains do not usually jump 180 out. but cranking with a jumper can lead to further jumping, compression low across the board and fire out the intake trying to start. GM fixes those with a goodwrench part number.
If you looked at it with confusion, you could have a starter issue, or hydrstatic lock. pull all the plugs and crank it over, then bring up 1 cyl on compr stroke, then observe distr position. plug the 1 hole and tap the key till it goes poof, then turn to tdc. If fuel or coolant is coming out of the engine like a calliope, that was hydrostatic lock. you have leak downs to do for fuel and coolant. Still GM services that with a goodwrench part number.
You get to take down all your factors for miles, age, wear, and damage found to evaluate cost of repair
I've tried to set it up to turn the distributor 180 and it help bust off more but still not turning all the way over to run
There's 2 types of timing. Ignition and valve. Both are relevant to each other. The camshaft drives the distributor. If the timing chain jumps (valve timing) the ignition timing will be off as well. You'll see retarded (late) ignition timing. There's usually symptoms before the timing chain jumps enough to cause the engine to quit. Loss of power, running hot, boiling over, and late transmission shifting are the most common. To confirm that it's jumped timing run a compression test. If all cylinders test low or zero it's jumped timing. Also, remove the distributor cap and crank the engine. Does the distributor rotor turn? If not, the timing chain is broken. HTH. -Jim
(turning all the way over).That is a term used only by you that I know of.................what exactly are you thinking when you write that?.....either the engine cranks or it doesn't. if it doesnt, the starter wont turn it or the starter cant turn it. If the plugs are out does the starter spin the crank freely? Then, you have spark, and that permits fuel pressure, then the injectors deliver the fuel because they receive injector pulse. Cranks but wont fire,........Cranks, has spark , but no fuel,............ cranks, has spark and fuel, but no compression. Or, does all 4 but pops and tries to stack fire, or (pops back up the intake) or is it something else? You static time the engine by finding compression stroke for 1st cylinder it sticks forward on that side of a v type engine (leading bank) Both valves are closed, the piston is travelling up to TDC. It has been turned there....to where in the cap does your distributor point? You have to find yours in this terminology to continue.
If yours is trying to stack fire or pop back up the intake, it is because an INTAKE VALVE IS OPEN DURING THE SPARK, that means either you had the distributor out of its hole, or you had a baggy chain jump or a worn gear spin out . The vehicle is 20 yrs now. can you diagnose a base engine concern with this info? If not, get help from a technician in person. Then he/she can see the thing to verify basics. Goodwrench services this problem with one part number.
you sure you dont have odd and even cylinders swapped? double check the plug wires. sounds dumb but ive done it. lol
On a 96 the timing HAS to be set via scan tool. If you touched it your not going to get it right. The oil pump drive can move when you take the dist out and make the distributor out of alignment. It's happened to me twice.
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