97 chevy 5.7 no power
I have replaced everything I've changed timing oil
pressure switch coolant temp sensor distributor
timing set altinator fuel system from pressure
regulator to fuel pump assembly including
injectors mass sensor I pulled cats off to check
clogs started fine ran like shit ifbi gave it gas when
I give it gas it won't idle up smoothly and if I try to
punch it it completely dies I've put it in the shop
twice and they have no idea what's causing it sens
I changed everything I ran seafoam through my
brake booster and it didn't help in fact after I did it
my oil pressure started bottoming out but I have
good compression in all 8 I'm at a loss now any
advice will help
If you used too much SeaFoam it can go down around the rings and lower the viscosity of the engine oil thus the oil pressure drop out. Have you checked the timing chain for excessive slop in the chain, if you have the touch you can feel the loads change when the slack in the timing chain is reached the both directions on the crankshaft, these are also known for sucking out the lower intake gaskets and on high mileage engines I have seen a few have worn the camshaft lobes off so the valves are not opening as far as they should, also if you mess with the igniting timing by turning the distributor you can get the cam sync signal messed up, usually it will turn on the check engine light but not always so make sure the distributor is at TDC. HTH
Everything has been timed on it crank to cam and dist been timed when I did crank to cam I did both sprockets and chain my dots are dead on before I did timing kit shop said the only way they could get anything good out of it was to put dist out of time but after I did timing I got dist retimed as well
Do you have a scan tool that can read live data? If so you may want to check the computer timing advance, hopefully it is not in the minus area.
I don't the shop that helped my did and he didn't mention it
Ok, did he do a hard reset on the ECM after he set it all up? If you don't know then you can do it yourself on this rig, disconnect a battery cable, it doesn't make any difference what one you chose, turn on the headlight switch, wait at least 30 seconds, turn off the headlight switch, reconnect the battery, set the parking brake, start the engine, step on the brakes and hold, put into drive and turn on the heater blower, and let idle for about 2 minutes, then turn everything off and shut it down, now try it to see if the problem is gone, if not then start looking for a bad sensor or ECM grounds, especially those that were disconnected during the repairs. If problem persists then the live data scanner is going to have to be hooked back up a a frame by frame scan needs to be performed to see if there is anything wrong with the sensor readings or the ECM outputs. HTH
Did not work any other ideas
What did the live data show on timing? We're any of the sensor readings in the minus category?
When doing a hard ECM reset turn the key but don't crank over only leave power on. Disconnect power (positive cable) leave disconnected for 10-15 min. Reconnect and start engine. Check your manual for drive time so You have a idea on when ECM is reading at normal operating run time.
As it is a GM you can't do it that way, cause as your unscrewing the battery terminal your causing voltage cycles, of,on ,off,on, off in rapid succession, this can cause problems with other systems as well as the computer controls, never attempt a hard reset with the key turned on.
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