1995 Roadmaster with idle issues and throttle issues

Asked by Mar 01, 2012 at 06:57 PM about the 1995 Buick Roadmaster 4 Dr STD Sedan

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

On Dec. 1st, 2011 my Buick quit running on me.  Assuming I may have ran it out of gas I put fuel in it.  
Didn't work.  Replaced the strainer and filter.  Nothing.  Decided to replace the pump, will fire and run
now.  WONT IDLE FOR CRAP!  It idles rough and upon pressing the accelerator it attempts to die then
comes back to life after a few seconds.  Shooting water out of the tail pipe (I am pretty sure it's water
at least).  Ran some heat and fuel stabilizer through the system and no luck.  Didn't fix the issue.  What
is left?  I am tossing around the idea of maybe fouled out plugs, dirty MAF sensor, bad IAC, or the tps
might be bad.  Any ideas? Anyone go through something like this with their Buick before?

5 Answers

435

First thing I would do is get it over to a place where you can check for engine codes. Even if the check engine light is not on you might have some. How many miles on your roadmaster? Does yours have the LT1 5.7? Check the wires to see if they are not arcing (breaking down). You might be ready for a cap and rotor and if you do have the LT1 just buy a complete new distributer assembly. because you will have to remove the water pump to get at it. After all that work it just makes sense to replace all of it. (been there twice with both of my 96 wagons) as for the water out of the tail pipe don't sweat it. It is a normal for an engine to have water coming out of the tailpipe.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

I'm not worried about the water. It's just the idling. Im leaning towards the ignition, thinking the plugs are fouled. it is the "lt1" motor. been working on gms for about fifteen years and am stumped on this one.

It's got about 175k on it

435

The opti spark distributers are really known for great relibility BUT when they crap out the car does all kinds of things. My first 96 roadmaster wagon (250K) one of the rotor hold down scews came out. The car acually ran fine but the car would backfire at start up and break starters. The sceond roadmaster wagon (187K) would start up fine but like your car would idle rough and at high speeds had a bad missfire. that one too was the rotor was loose and the cap was arcing out interally. The check engine lights never came on in either case with both cars but when I checked them with my scan tool I hada code (mulitple spark missfire). The plugs i checked on both cars and they looked great even with the high milage. I am not saying you should not check them but I am guessing and from experince with both cars that with the mileage you have on yours (assumming you have never touched the distributer) that the distributer should be at least looked at as a strong possiblity of your problems. I would still look at the wire too since they are probably just as old. I have been working on cars for over 30 years and have done mulitple frame off restos and engine rebuilds. I hope my advise is helping you. Take care Dan

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
25

My 92 was dying after startup, had to increase rpm in order to keep motor running. Sprayed berrymans intake cleaner into hose I disconnected from the brake master cylinder. While parked you have someone accelerate the rpm to 1500 as you spray.(on/off the spray to keep engine from dying). REMEMBER hook master cyl. hose back up. Do 2 times in month.

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