Car wont start
I had drove my car to the store and back home and it ran fine.When i got ready to leave again, it wouldnt start. Its gettin gas and spark. I've had the fuel pump and distributor cap and rotor changed...note:just a day or two before this happened, it would start but die immediately, but it would start again when i tried it right after that happen, also there is a humming noise coming from under the dash on the drivers side withing the relays and wiring.
When was the work done on the car? Was this happening before the work or after? If it is getting Fuel and spark and will not start then I would look at your ignition timing. How many miles on the engine? I don't want to dismiss the noise under the dash but I am not sure if the two issues are related.
the work was done after the car would not start. it has 163,000 miles on the engine.i put a new icm on yesterday but same response.
Does the car backfire when trying to start? I am thinking that your igntion timing could be off or moving. This could be due to a very loose timing chain. check the distributor shaft for play. Remove the cap and rotor grab the shaft and try to move back and forth. If you feel any play that too could contribute to your problem.
it doesnt backfire when trying to start. The distributor shaft has no play in it. I put a fpr on earlier today, it acted like it wanted to but it still not starting. i'm gonna look at the filter and see how that turn out.
Have you tried using some starting fluid to see if it will run? I am still conserned about the timing chain (could be really stretched out and could have slipped one tooth).
i tried spraying starting fluid but it still wouldn't start. Is it possible for it to slip a tooth on the timing chain when trying to crank it?
Yes that could happen and that is what i am afraid might have happened. With 160,000 + miles and probably never opened up could be a very strong possiblity. I just did a timing chain on my 96 roadmaster wagon. With 250,000 miles that is the second chain i have put on that car. In both cases with the chain being loose the car was very hard to start.
thanks..i'm gonna have somebody look at it and see if thats the case, i don't know how to do that type of engine work,lol..Soon as I get it looked at i will let you know, and thanks in advance for your help!!!!
Good luck my freind keep us posted. Take care Dan
i had a mechanic come look at it yesterday..He checked my fuel flow and everything was fine.But when he check for spark, i got barely a spark at my spark plug, but got spark on the distributor cap..i'm guessing that it has something to do with my ignition system.
So your plugs or wires sound like they could be the problem. Don't think that because it is new it's good. Sometimes bad/improperly marked parts get into our cars leaving us scratching our heads looking for answers.
i put new plugs in and still same response. It sounds like it is on the verge of starting, u can hear the car and exhaust, but it just isn't firing. I put a new coil pack on, but still no start. I'm thinking about getting a new distributor first before I have the timing chain looked at.
Try advancing the timing then try and start it. (turn dist clockwise about 1/2 inch at a time) mark your dist starting p[oint before loosening the hold down bolt so you can go back the the original starting point if this doesn't pan out.
i got it running!!! After some looking and checking the wires and volts, my mechanic had me to turn the engine to listen for any abnormal sounds. Since there wasnt any, he opened my throttle body all the way open as i crunk it up and after a couple of hessitations, she fired on up! I have to replace my plugs again, but she runs good. Now I gotta figure out a way to stop spark knocking.
glad to hear you have it running. You have two anti-knock sensors on the bottom the the engine located just behind the engine mounts. Is it knocking after it gets hot? or right away? check to see if the engine computer is throwing any fault codes. just because the engine light is not on doesen't mean some are not stored. I don't want to be a pain but I am still consered about the timing on this thing. Is it starting right up after this first time?
it knocks when i give it gas when i go up a hill or tr'y to accelerate fast. I keep burning out my spark plugs soon as i put them in. I'm going to replace my coolant temperature sensor withing the next day or so, since it is bad. It cranks up fine during the day, just have a hell of a time starting in the morning when I first crank it up, but after it's crunk, i dont have problems cranking afterwards.Since non of the part stores doesn't have a scan-tool to read my trouble codes, i'm gonna pull the codes up myself and let you know what codes come up.
coolant temp. sensor and intake air sensor codes popped up.
Check the connections before replacing the sensors. I had a oil level sensor code pop up to find a connector that had some water in it.
yea the connections were pretty dirty and oily, thanks...now its not starting again,lol! I looked at it and the injectors are not shooting out gas at all. When I spray starter fluid in it, it starts but dies soon as the fluid is gone. The fuel pump is working and there is gas in the car.
Sound like you have have a fuel restriction somewhere. Check the filter and you will need to get under the car and follow the fuel line to see if it has been pinched off somewhere. That could have been your knock as well a "LEAN" burning engine will do that.
where do u spray the starter fluid
All these answers are wrong. The reason the roadmaster will not start is because it is the electronic ignition module. I had to spend towing labor and parts to the total of 310.00 which included an oil change.
Where is the electronic ignition module located?
depends on the year of your roadmaster. If you own a 91-93 it is in the distributer. If you have the 94-96 with the LTI it is located on the driver side cylinder head in the front of the engine right under the coil.
I am facing the same problem right now....just about replaced everything running out of options and money.
1st off if the problem is intermittent and you have corrected any trouble codes verify spec. Fuel pressure I have found that just after a fuel pump and filter have been replaced that the lines got pinched causing erratic fuel pressure causing an intermittent to a no start condition, verify a fat blue spark as a week spark will not spark under compression. Verify timing and that the distributor isn't loose, loose connections at sensors will normally cause throw a code but verify the connection at the two injectors. Also use a noir light or test light to verify your injectors are getting a signal when cranking. Next if its a flat out no start then look to compression and timing.
GMRDAY what is your opinion if the electronic ignition module was tested and is fine? I am having the same issue with my 95' roadmaster with the LT1 motor. She has approximately 155,000 miles on her and we just replaced the opti spark distrubutor in July, did a full tune up, changed out O2 sensors, MAP sensor, ignition coil is good as are the starter, battery, alternator etc. She is getting fuel and will crank but not start.
I had the same issue with our 96. The module tested fine but I was skeptical. So I bought the cheapest one I could find from Rock Auto and that was the problem. The tester from the auto parts store is testing a module that has cooled down. ours would quit after the car got hot but would restart again when cold. So don't rule out the module!
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