Is it really my starter or is it a bad connection to the starter or a bad battery?

5

Asked by Dec 12, 2013 at 08:06 PM about the 2003 Buick Century Sedan FWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

i have 2003 Buick Century. Sporadically when I turn the key the cars just clicks..I try it
again and the car starts. Seems to happen only when Temp low and engine cold.  So I
took car to dealer to check out,  after several hrs they called and said battery tests fine
and starter test fine. But lets keep it overnight and try again to replicate problem, after
24 hrs of sitting in cold (below 30F) They got the click and now the starter is "bad"to
the tune of $450
Could this really be a bad connection to the starter motor?

8 Answers

yes it certainly IS...the MAIN ground connection to the chassis/frame is paramount and subject to immediate corrosion from repeated 300 or more AMPs through that single spot with dis-similar materials quickly forms a "semi-conductor" layer...what you must do is disassemble this connection and wirebrush the lug....till shiny and the chassis....till shiny and put them together...also the 1/0 cable connection to the motor block (near the alternator) must be able to draw 300 or more cold cranking amps...if all these grounds are capable of the amperage would have to pull this load duty~....if this don't work, take the startermotor to the NAPA for a FREE bench test~

3 of 3 people found this helpful.

I'd blame the starter solenoid ....for significant savings~

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
270,405

Hard to say without inspecting it myself. If you want, try getting another estimate.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

todays batteries are made from a tin/antimony alloy....they don't use lead anymore...as a consequence they stop taking a charge readily ten percent less per year~ if yours is five years old it's time for a new one....mkay?

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

https://www.google.com/search? tbm=shop&q=2003+buick+century+starter+motor&sa=X&ei=QWCqUoeyBY HQrgGJw4DoAw&ved=0CHkQkSooAA&biw=1152&bih=624______like 79 bucks..man~

3 of 3 people found this helpful.

the battery is gonna be more than this~!

2,775

It *may* have a starter issue, but I think there are steps that I would take first before undertaking that repair. GM vehicles are sort of notorious for these kinds of issues because they use a side-terminal style battery to save on space. Now the surface area between the internal part of the terminal and the connection is more or less the same, but because the terminals are sleeved in rubber, corrosion will build-up underneath the covers and impede a good, stable connection. Due to their design, you cannot remove the rubber sleeve without cutting it. But that's okay. Here is what you want to do. After removing both leads from the battery, starting with the negative, keep them well apart. Now with a razor-knife, make a small relief cut from the rotating "post" (we call them bullets) to the perimeter of the rubber. This will allow you to put a small flathead screwdriver underneath the "bullet" and after a little fiddling, it will come out. Then simply slide the cover off. Use some battery terminal cleaner (or Coca Cola) and a wire brush and clean up the contact plate as well as the removed post. The posts, or "bullets", are notorious for stripping out so I tend to replace them when I remove them...you can find them at any auto parts store. Do this to both the positive and negative connections. Then follow the leads down to the starter and check them for tightness and corrosion. Clean up as necessary. Recheck. If the click continues, locate the starter relay... Most cars have two fuse & relay boxes, one under the hood for drivetrain and high-draw components, and one in the car for things like dome lights, horn, radio, etc. After locating the relay and noting its orientation and markings, locate a second relay with the same layout and markings. Most cars have a few relays that are interchangeable, so try swapping two relays side-to-side and see if the problem disappears. If it does, replace the bad relay, which will have moved. If not, move them back to the original orientation and at this point, assuming the battery tests good, the starter is the likely culprit. Hope this helps.

10 of 10 people found this helpful.
Best Answer Mark helpful

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test-the-starter- motor-1http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test- the-starter-motor- 2http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test-the- starter-motor-3 Go through these checks, load test your battery,have your charging system checked, and even if you clean your battery connections there could be a spot inside a batt. cable being bad and the cause....ignition switch/module..or nuetral safety could also be a cause...good luck and fight the good fight of faith.

Your Answer

Century

Looking for a Used Century in your area?

CarGurus has 718 nationwide Century listings starting at $2,500.

ZIP:

Buick Century Experts

  • #1
    John Saffrahn
    Reputation
    1,030
  • #2
    Tom Demyan
    Reputation
    850
  • #3
    John Pate
    Reputation
    610
View All

Related Models For Sale

Used Buick Regal
152 Great Deals out of 6,543 listings starting at $3,995
Used Buick LeSabre
5 Great Deals out of 1,573 listings starting at $799
Used Chevrolet Impala
521 Great Deals out of 33,150 listings starting at $1,495
Used Buick Park Avenue
356 listings starting at $1,995
Used Honda Accord
884 Great Deals out of 79,053 listings starting at $1,444
Used Toyota Camry
1,082 Great Deals out of 76,000 listings starting at $1,000
Used Chevrolet Malibu
1,085 Great Deals out of 57,191 listings starting at $995
Used Honda Civic
692 Great Deals out of 52,976 listings starting at $1,200
Used Pontiac Grand Prix
11 Great Deals out of 2,467 listings starting at $950
Used Ford Taurus
218 Great Deals out of 15,346 listings starting at $1,900
Used Ford Mustang
437 Great Deals out of 42,782 listings starting at $1,488
Used Toyota Corolla
872 Great Deals out of 65,254 listings starting at $1,250

Content submitted by Users is not endorsed by CarGurus, does not express the opinions of CarGurus, and should not be considered reviewed, screened, or approved by CarGurus. Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use.