2006 Sebring 2.7 Boiling Coolant in Reservoir
Have found some articles talk about the same problem in this type car, but
everyone is in different situation, Hope someone can help me find the
correct way to troubleshooting the problem.
When my Sebring drive over 20 minutes in a warm weather(>10C), the
temperature gauge get in half(it should 80 C degree) , and if continue drive
about 5 minutes and the gauge is a little over half graduation, the boiling
coolant overflow from reservoir.
I use a laser temperature detector when this happened, I can read 105 C in
the up pipe, but on the surface of bleed housing temperature detector, it
read is just 80 C,
In recent 5 months, the car repair the following item:
1 bleed housing changed in December, the old one is leaking
2 thermostat changed in April, after this, the boiling problem began
3 changed coolant three times
4 the fan can work when gauge get half graduation
5 changed two times reservoir cap
6 mechanic checked and sure it isn't the head gasket issue
I can give more repair details if needed, the photo is diagram of cooling
system of Sebring 2007
Honestly, it sounds like head gasket blow by. Did you have the compression checked? If so, what were the readings
Honestly, it sounds like head gasket blow by. Did you have the compression checked? If so, what were the readings?
Hi CtRacer_x, Thank your quickly reply, the mechanic use some special blue liquid test this issue, they told me it isn't the head gasket issue. They said maybe the problem is related to the water pump, it will cost expensive, I'm afraid the problem is the new bleed housing, because when the issue come in, the temperature gauge read just 85 C, but the up pipe has been 105-110 C, because the Temperature Sensor connect to bleed housing, the problem was happened after I changed bleed housing and thermostat.
It is possible that you have a blocked bleed housing, but then you'd likely have blow by there--- that housing has a schrader valve on the top, did you bleed any air out of the coolant system after changing the t-stat? Also if you changed the t-stat, the water pump shoyld be a breeze
The coolant has been replaced three times in half year, I give you details for what happened in recently one year. 2014-7~2015-7, it run perfect. 2015-7, changed two rear brake disks 2015-8, changed alternator and related Belt, it lost electrical power and stopped work down a traffic light. 2015-11, The heating wind come too slow and too weak, after add some coolant, it improved but not strong like normal 2015-12, changed engine oil, winter tires. mechanic found coolant leak from Bleeder Housing, then changed a new Bleeder Housing, also a new PCV valve, 6 new spark plugs(they are never be changed before 160,000KM) 2016-1 Change another belt, coolant, the heating wind improved, but always not strong, the temperature gauge still under 1/4 (about not over 60C) in cold winter(-5~-15 Montreal) when drive in half hour. 2016-3 Change transmission fluid(according manual guide), thermostat, the water temperature gauge can get almost 1/2 (about 80C), the heating wind become strong and normal when drive in 15 minutes, but in same day after change the thermostat, the boiling coolant overflow from reservoir, it was about running 30 minutes and the water temperature gauge a litter over half(about 85-90C) in one week, even if I add coolant enough, the heating wind become worse, very weak again, the water temperature raise very slowly, but it quickly raise over half in 5 minutes, and the yellow malfunction indicator was light. I believe should some block in the cooling system, but the mechanic didn't agree with this, he ask me to make a heat gasket blow testing in another garage, but another garage said it wasn't the problem after they testing, they changed my reservoir cap again. I ask them high pressure clean the cooling system, I don't know if the cleaning include two part recycles, but yes, the coolant be changed again in third times, because when the previous mechanic change thermostat, he waste my coolant because a broke bucket, then he mixed different coolant in this sebring, one part is OEM red, other one he said is multi- function golden coolant. after clean the cooling system, the heating wind become normal, but each time if I drive more than half hour, when the water temperature a little over half(85-90C), the coolant stream can be seen overflow from hood, I have to drive not too far and keep add coolant each week, I use a Mastercraft Digital Temperature Reader to check the temperature in each part, when the problem come in, the gauge is just about 85℃, but the top of reservoir, the top of bleeder housing and the up pipe connected to radiator, they all got a temperature between 105~115℃. I can hear the fan running, I think if the water pump is broken, it means three cooling system parts are broken in 3 months, so I think maybe some other thing wrong that I don't know, maybe someone know that, repair a car is really waste time :) it is impossible three time changing coolant not following the standard, they are three mechanics in three garages. The bleeder housing looks simple, I don't know why the temperature is so different in a small part, I upload a picture here.
By the way, is there some way can detect the coolant flow in correct speed?
Dear all, is there anyone experience this situation? I attach a picture here to show when the problem is happened: when the temperature gauge is a little over the middle line, it should be about 85℃, the top of bleeder housing is 115℃, the upper pipe which connect to radiator, is 105-115℃, I don't understand why has so Temperature difference in a small part, in about 115℃, the coolant maybe boiling. I guess the problem maybe like this: 1 one part of engine cooling water jacket is block, so one part is in 115℃, but another which connect to temperature sensor is normal in 80℃. when the lower part got 90℃, the higher part ha s been in 115~125℃, so the coolant get boiling 2 another problem is maybe some block in radiator, I can find the lower pipe is cold (20-30) when the problem come in, 3 maybe some air room is always mix in coolant, but the mechanic should be professional for this I don't think the problem is in pump, because the upper pipe is can feel a high pressure when it got 115℃, and all the winter my temperature gauge is not over 1/4, that was the problem the thermostat keep open, if pump not work strong, the temperature should quickly rise even if in winter I found the upper pipe is empty and very soft when the car is cold before the engine running, is this a problem?
the temperature in Bleeder Housing
Change the water pump
the gauge location when boiling come in:
Thank you CtRacer_x, I add more coolant in the reservoir, over the max line, it better than usually situation, next time when I go to garage, I will think about to change water pump or all the car. Bleesing :)
just wondering if you ever corrected this problem with the high temperature in your car after changing so many parts.
could you please email me that diagram of the cooling system for the Sebring? the one that's on this page she was blurry and I can't enlarge it
you have an air bubble in your system.
you also have to buy go5 antifreeze for this system due to the water pump design On these 2.7 engines
Hi,Kladyace! the diagram, you just click the image in this web, and right click the image opened, save it. if don't work, I will email you. I haven't try to change the water pump, it will cost about C$800. I want check the temperature sensor first, I think have two sensor in this car and they have different number, and if I turn on the heat wind in 3 or 4, I can control the coolant not boiling, but it's really hot in summer :) I will check go5 antifreeze also, thank you!
I have a video of me bleeding the air out of my vehicle giving idea what you have to go through still working on it I believe I still have air trapped due to the heater hoses having reduced down to small metal lines. this is also a poor design of cooling system. could you email that to me the diagram to email@example.com
Finally, I believe that it is impossible three cooling system parts broke together, I ask a Chrysler dealer to change the them-stat again, and it works. It means some problem with the previous part or the mechanic, The previous them-stat can't be fully open or some thing block there. The dealer ask me C$400 (include tax 15%) for change a them- state in Montreal, so, if I had a presentable mechanic friend, I could save a lot of money :) From this case, I think why none can find the reason for cooling recycle block?
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