Replaced thermostat bleed air our of
coolong system flushed rad. and still runnin
hot goin down the road and can still hear
like a gurgling noise under dash what to do
from here thanks
Gurgling in dash is still air in the system. You may have to elevate the nose up around 1 to 1.5 feet to make the bubbles rise to the radiator.
Ive already done that more than once could the heater core have a small hole in it and when u are accelerating is when it gurgles and it will boil over into the over flow do u think the water pump is goin out or the rad still have a blockage in it
Pressure test the cooling system, that should tell you if you have a leak. You should not hear any gurgling at all. The only other thing I can think of is a blown headgasket forcing combustion gasses back into the cooling system. A block check test will confirm or deny a blown headgasket. HTH
I put a pressure tester on the system andlet it sit and run and it didnt build any pressure so could it still be blow head gasket or is it just that hard to get the air out the system o and when it starts runnon hot the heat is cold and sometimes gets hot but only after I first bleed the system and then it only last for bout a day at the most then it will start runnin hot and heat won work
Believe me some rigs can be a real bear to get the air out. I can remember a few rigs that I finally put on a cooling system flush machine before I could get all the air out. When you put the pressure gauge on the cooling system it didn't make any pressure at all?
No not at all didnt even get up to the first setting is that bad or no im just at a loss with this thing I was hoppin to fix it myslef but may have to take it to a shop and let them deal with it it still needs the timimg belt and water pump done anyways but was hopin I could figure out the gurgling and over heating problem so the wife can injoy her car and the turn signals went out on it to thay flash real fast o the dash but none of the bulbs work and even if u cut the hazards on
That's not good, it should have built some pressure at least 8 to 10 lbs. there has to be a leak somewhere. Could be the heater core with a pin hole leak. What ever you do don't use some kind of cooling system sealer, you will only cause yourself grief later on when it starts plugging up small cooling ports in the engine. The turn signals could be a bad combo switch, it's only turning on the inside dash signals and not completing the circuit.
Yea I know not to use that stuff seen wha it can do to an engine I was thinkin that it had ti have some ko d of hole somewhere I was gonna bypass the heater core and see if it ran hot again after I did that since it is warm now wo t need the heater anyways and is there a way to check the switch before I pull the wheel and replace it could there be a cut wire in th column I read somwhere online that the tilte wheel can pinhone of the turn wire and cause them not to work
Yeah, pull the column covers off and that should get you to the harness, you can move the wheel and look for breaks in the wiring. To go beyond that you would need a diagram of the signal system and a good test light.
Ok thank u for the help I do apreciate it I hope the heater core is the problem and maybe the wire pinched in column to thank u again for the help will work on all that tom
The comment regarding exhaust gasses getting in the cooling system seems to make the most sense. Look for bubbles in the overflow tank, even after the engine has been shut off. Otherwise, consult a reputable radiator shop. They usually know all the tricks for individual vehicles, and might get you pointed in the right direction before the overheating causes major engine damage.
Ok thanks will try that also
I'm inclined to believe its the head gasket as well. If you open the rad cap and when you fill the rad it still bubbles chances are the head gasket.
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