How to fix lower ball joint and cv boot assembly?
I was turning into a parking lot with 4-5 five people it the care and into a
slight slate as most parking lots do. going slow as i can. then i heard the
ball joint grinding on the rim. well I didnt know exactly what it was and it was
really cold out so i thought maybe something minor. so i told them all to get
out and I was going to turn around and see if something pops back. Well It
didnt the wheel turn almost like what you see with a tie rod breaking. so
gopod thing I was only going like 2 mph. no other serious damage was
done. The halfshaft cv boot dissconnected from the trans part it goes to
near the motor. the stationary near the rotor is still connected. Now I have a
Chiltons manual which I love and have used a lot it does help. However it is
meant for a more experiecned mechanic with all the right tools and
knowhow. Now I do know what im doing and have done tons of work on tons
of cars. so according to my manual i have to drill out the four rivits tothe top
knucle then pull the codder pin and nut from the ball stud i did that but now
have not been able to get the ball stud out. trying a little hammer and
greaseed it well. Is there anyhtin else i can do. Also it said to drill a 1/8 pilot
hole which i did on all four rivets then use a 1/2 inch to get the rest of it out.
Well the first one no problem now i cant make a dent into the others. I am
assuming i have dull or maybe the wrong bits. so I anyone can tell me what
a good tips is to finsish those parts let me know. And for the next real
problem. I also seen anothr guy on here with the same problem ball joint
came out and he replaced the halfshaft put it all back togeter and now he
cant get into any gear???? I dont want that to happen to me. Does the
grease lost have to be put back into the cv boot where the tri-pot is? or did
something else break inside the tranny more to fuck it all up? i know my
chiltons said that you dont want to over extent the shalft but i belive its not
that over extended. Anyways I and him would really appreciate any advice
that anyone may have with this p[refereablly a mechanic with some years
who has seen this kinda thing before. email me or get back to me somehow
if you can help. and to anyone else good luck with the lovey always
something wrong with car lifestyle it really is a fun time lol sarcasm
I would go to a junkyard pull a full CV drive axle and wheel hub from a Lumina, Olds Cutlass Supreme, or Grand Prix. Will maybe cost all of $100 at the most. It really seems more complicated than it is, I have swapped this out on many a GM vehicles and several Honda's and a few Lexus vehicles. There are several videos on Youtube that walk you through the steps. It is a lengthy process, including draining the trans and a lot of parts to the wheel assembly it's fairly easy if you take it one step at a time. As the video in this link shows most all front wheel drive cars are the same as far as the assembly in the drive axle. Best of luck and feel free to hit me up with questions!
Ooops! It would ve helped had I enclosed the link. See here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXdbWiEYmso There are several more on Youtube, including one that is Lumina specific. You'll feel like a million bucks once you swap it out yourself! :)
Ok, I suspect some of the rivets are still hanging on so to speak. The ball joint fits into the control arm. You can take a grinder and grind the top of the rivets off flush to the ball joint. Not gonna hurt anything, thats what you are replacing. Then take a hammer and pound it out from the stud side of the ball joint. Or hammer something in-between the ball joint flange and pry it up. On the CV axle, no matter what it has to come out for repair or replacement. Replacement of the axle shaft is recommended. You can get a hole axle shaft NEW from $50 to $80. The main thing on installation of the axle shaft it to take notice of the old one before taking it out, distance between CV joint and the trany. Installing the new axle shaft theoretically should snap back into place. There is a C-clip that holds it into place. You just want to make sure it is in all the way. Since you will have this tore down, you should replace the wheel bearing hub assembly, they only last 80,000 to 130,000 miles. Aftermarket you can find them from $50 to $85, (Timken, or Mooge), OEM runs around $300.
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