hard to start & will cut off after it starts. seem like fan is coming on then off as it idles. what to do next?

Gewalker74
45

Asked by Feb 27, 2013 at 08:48 AM about the 1993 Buick Roadmaster 4 Dr Limited Sedan

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I've change plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, fuel filter, idle cont valve, pcv, coolant temp sensor, & map
sensor. I clean carb, egr valve, & mass air flow sensor. Only code was 15, that's why I replace
coolant temp sensor. It started but cut right back off. I spray starter fuild in an it will start, I can
drive then stalls out. But will start right back up without spraying starter fuild in. Its getting spark
from icm and fuel pressure seems to be fine. It has 102,678mi on it. Everything original except what
I've changed. Will new timing chain solve problem?

25 Answers

James Ramond
17,975

no chain ,security maby

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
Gewalker74
45

Would there be a kill switch located under dash board somewhere?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
DanR63
435

Have you checked your fuel pump pressure? The pump may be weak. thus letting start but not idle.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Gewalker74
45

Im still at a lost. I replaced fuel pump. Still won't start. So I replaced spark plugs again, same result. Could the carburator be bad? Or is the timing off?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
DanR63
435

Still sounds like a no fuel situation. Try checking the injectors/throttle body unit. If you are sprying fluid in and the car runs unitl it runs out the car is starving for fuel.

Gewalker74
45

Change injectors/throttle body. Still won't start up. It almost started but no dice. Could the timing chain be a factor?

ZanetaRose
110

Did you ever find the problem? We are having the same or similar situation with our 92 Buick Roadmaster sedan. Starts up ok then after turning her off then starting her again she dies. If we feather the gas she gets straightened out and then runs fine. No loss of power or choking out or nothing. Almost every start after the initial cold start causes this problem. It use to be worse in the summer and hardly at all in the winter. Now it is doing it whether it is hot or not. It is an intermittent problem though. HELP!

8 out of 8 people think this is helpful.
ZanetaRose
110

Has anyone ever considered the junction box under the dash on driver's side where the ignition, blinker, cruise control wires etc come together? We were considering that cuz we have done everything except the fuel filter. Are you having problems with the electrical related to the turn signals or the wipers? Our wipers will come on by themselves if i use the turn signal or sometimes just out of the blue, they come on.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Roadmonster93
80

Mine does that too. 93 Roadmaster sedan with the 350 TBI. It starts and runs great, but after it is hot like in spring summer and fall, I will let it sit for about 15 minutes or so, then it will crank and start then stall. I start it again and it runs fine. Once in a while it starts when hot and sputters but I rev it and its good to go. I have noticed that the idle in D at a stoplight is right at 500 and I always thought 550 was the norm in D. I have replaced everything everyone else has, and my fuel pump was replaced about 12 years ago. If it is heat related then Im not sure what else to replace. I even replaced the Idle control valve, the air temp sensor on the air cleaner, but maybe its that thermal valve on the inlet of the air cleaner. It may be closing when its not supposed to?

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
Roadmonster93
80

I checked my timing and it was retarded by 2 degrees. I adjusted it back to 0 which is the specs. It runs peppier than before and idles smooth still. I hope this fixes it.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
ZanetaRose
110

Hey roadmaster93 did that fix the problem? I still have the problem. We will get the timeing checked and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion!

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Roadmonster93
80

Its strange, but Ive replaced so many things on my Roadmaster and the timing made it run better but only whenits over 70 degrees and after running it for a while, it still starts then stalls when hot. Whenits cold out in the winter months it does not do it. I even changed the temperature sensor on the side of the air cleaner case thinking the hot air had to do with it but still stalls. Its rare tho, and overall has lots of power so hopefully I shall figure out this little problem.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Roadmonster93
80

Hmmmm its now winter here in Virginia but its been in the 60s and low 70s and the Buick stalled again. Just last week I changed the coolant temp sensor and the charcoal canister, purge valve and purge solenoid so the last thing I can check is the distributor ignition module to see if there is enough dielectric grease on it because it stalls once or twice after driving and after sitting 30 mins.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
ZanetaRose
110

Had the distributor replaced and that did not solve the problem. We have a mechanic who is determined to find the problem. He thinks now that it may be the computer. Will keep you posted.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Roadmonster93
80

I hope so because all winter it ran fine and today it was 70, and after a long drive I parked for 30 mins and came back outside to start it and it ran for 2 seconds and stalled. I notice the idle has still been lower when the car is cooler but does raise a bit when coming to a stop and staying in higher idle then goes back down again. Strange behavior and its annoying me. I swear give me a pre 1980 car before computers and sensors!

evade
10

my 92 will start and idle but no power when u step on excelerator

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Corey Townsend
0

My 92 roadmaster is doing the same thing. It's like I keep running out of gas. How in the hell is everyone having the same problem. We all need to stop fooling with shade tree mechanics and go all out for the roadmasters! #gang

grandpapanzfeldwn
20

go to the grounds that feed the computer and clean/ sandpaper the grounds where they tie to chassis or engine

Evidentmule
10

Try changing oil to a 10/40 for summer, back to 10,5/30 for winter months. Oil is thinning when hot, therefore less oil pressure. Or try changing pressure switch. This SHOULD fix problem for most!

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
guinnstephanie
0

I'm having all of these problems with mine.electrical with the blinkers starts up and idles like is running out of gas then dies sometimes it has to set a few min before it starts back up. Before all this started I could smell rotten eggs. Could this be all related to the 02 sensor and the Cadillac converter. It also sometime would not have anything when I would turn the key over no power no clicking nothing. But when I taped around on the fuse box under the hood on the passenger side it started up fine..dose anyone have any idea.the test show the car is getting low maf sensor coolant sensor and air pump tested fault???????

Evidentmule
10

Sounds like a bad ground wire. As far as egg smell, yes that is usually bad cad conv. However I would like to think all would return to normal once wiring problem is fixed.

boing1972
0

I had a bad fuel pump, then had to replace the the fuel sending unit, then replaced the coil,map sensor, ignition module, water sensor, TPS, fuel relays, and the ECM. IF YOU UNPLUG the water sensor on the intake, it will run for 10 seconds then shuts down, plug it back up,it won't start at all. I'm at the end with this, any help would be appreciated. You can email me directly, at soulsnatcher72@yahoo.com.

Evidentmule
10

After the last couple of questions, I think there might be a bad batch of water and oil sensors. I once had to change the starter on a Chevy pickup three times. I prefer delco, Delphi, and a select few.

Evidentmule
10

Also are you clearing the ghost codes when changing sensors?

Evidentmule
10

Just wanted to pass a story along. My dad was a huge gear head. I grew up around the southern California rod and drag guys and one thing I always remember was they ALL said, it's usually something simple. Case in point reading these blog, I am not thinking I'm the smartest, but a lot of times it's what's not happening that is the clue. I just got a 92 estate with 175,000 +. First thing the guy said was fuel pump, wouldn't run,etc. tinkered a little while my son in law watched oil gauge, it was bouncing. Got pressure up by adding some good old STP. Drove it home. Put on two new oil cooler lines, flushed oil cooler with seafoam while lines were off, changed the injector filters..starts n run's awesome. The dude freaked, wanted car back and was pissed at his brother who is a mechanic. No I didn't didn't sell it back, 300$ car I've found. Just saying , sometimes it's just that things get old, plugged, restricted and wire's break. These things are built to protect them selves from us. Oil pressure issues cause a lot of phantom issues, including when you don't reset your oil change info. It's not always the obvious!

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