95 Buick Regal (Check Engine Light)
I've owned a 95 Buick Regal for the last 6 months and have had really no
issues apart from changing the Brake Pads. The engine runs fine and I
recently got it serviced and there are some Minor small oil leaks. Yesterday I
started the car and the Check Engine Light stayed on for a while until I
stopped the engine. I restarted it and it disappeared. I drove the car 4 or 5
times more before today. I was in a parking lot to start the car and the light
came on again. It didn't come on the next time I started my car. Does this
mean that I could potentially have something wrong with my car it do you just
think the light might be playing up? I would of thought if there was something
wrong the light would not turn back off.
Any feedback would be much appreciated.
You'll have to get the trouble codes out of the computer. This vehicle is OBD I so you can either get a code reader that will work with an OBD I system. Or flash out the codes with the check engine light on the dash. Even if the light is off the codes are still in the computer. HTH. -Jim
Thanks for your help. I did just get a new battery put in so I'm not sure if they might be triggering the (check engine light) to come on. How do you flash out the codes whilst the (check engine light) is on the dash?
To flash out the trouble codes you'll have to locate the ALDL connector under the dash. It's a large black plug-like thing under there near the steering column. Using an ordinary paper clip, with the ignition off, put the two ends of the paper clip in the two holes in the upper right corner of the ALDL connector. These are terminals A&B. Now turn on the ignition but don't try to start the engine. The check engine light will begin flashing reference code 12 as flash (pause) flash, flash. Reference code 12 will flash three times then any trouble codes stored in the computer will begin flashing out in numerical order lowest to highest. Each code will flash out 3 times before moving on to the next one. Once reference code 12 begins flashing again, you have retrieved all the codes. At this point shut off the ignition and remove your paper clip. To clear the computer remove the negative (-) battery cable for at least 30 seconds. HTH. -Jim
Hi. I tried the paper clip procedure but nothing happened. The light came on again today. I did notice at a stop at a traffic light that the bonnet on the drivers side was steaming a little. Lucky I was almost home. I opened up the bonnet when I got home and noticed that there is green coolent leaking which is causing the steam. The temperature of the engine is fine when I'm driving but have noticed it go up at lengthy traffic spots. I just had the car serviced two weeks ago. I'm just guessing there is a leak of some sort somewhere. Does this sound like a common problem or should I take it straight into a mechanic?
Without being able to see the car, I'd recommend taking it in to the mechanic. Since your car is a '95, the last year for OBD I technology, it is possible that you have an OBD II system in there. Tell the mechanic that the paper clip method didn't work so you think it's OBD II. They should be able to scan the computer and get the trouble codes for you. HTH. -Jim
Thanks. Do you think that coolent leak could possibly be a significant problem?
Probably not. Most likely a hose or worst case the radiator. HTH. -Jim
Hi I had a mechanic check the car over today. They performed a Cooling System Pressure Test and found that the Intake Manifold Gasket is Leaking. They say it will take 5 hours to fix which seems quite long to me and will also need to do a cooling System flush which is understandable. The parts for this procedure are only going to cost $100 but but the total labour is $760. With taxes included it's going to cost me over $1000 to fix. Does this sound reasonable or should I shop around to get it fixed?
Actually that does sound reasonable. Back in 2010 my Nephew had the same job done on his 2000 Grand Prix. Same basic engine. It cost him, at the time, around $650. Considering that was 6 years ago I'd say $1000 today is comparable. HTH. -Jim
Ok! Thanks for your reply. Much appreciated
You're welcome. Glad to help. If the oil has been contaminated by coolant have them change the oil and oil filter twice immediately after the repair. This way you'll be sure you get all the contaminated oil out of the engine. Have them drain the oil and replace the oil filter then refill with fresh oil before starting the engine after the repair. Then have them run the engine at idle for 30 minutes with the fresh oil and new filter. Then have them repeat those steps a second time. After the second 30 minutes of running the engine at idle they should change the oil and filter again and you'll be good to go. Those engines are very good once you get past this intake manifold gasket problem. I now have my Nephew's Grand Prix and 6 years later, with 155,000 miles on it, it still runs like a champ! HTH. -Jim
Cool! Is there any way I can check if the oil has been contaminated? Or can you tell just by looking at the dipstick? They did not mention this at all today. Thanks
You're welcome. Glad to help. Pull the oil dipstick and look for white milky "goop". If it's there the oil is definitely contaminated. If you don't see the "goop" it may not be contaminated but I'd do the oil changes anyhow just to be safe. It won't hurt. HTH. -Jim
I checked the oil and there is no milky goop. However when I checked it last week and wiped it down it would measure to the Full Spot which is ok. I checked it today and wiped it down. The dipstick shows a normal oil colour but has liquid all the way up it. I'm guessing this is the start of the contaminated oil?
Definitely sounds like it! HTH. -Jim
Thank you!! -Jim
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